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bsilverwood

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  1. Hey everyone - any concerns I should have with trying PETG on an UMO+? I noticed that the settings for it is not in Cura (so I will have to plug those in myself it seems). Any tidbits of lessons and info would be great!
  2. Looks like stringing... Temp and retraction values tend to solve this. Verify you are using the proper temps for the material used. Also, ensure you have retraction going on. See the link below: How to Fix Stringing
  3. Cura 2.4 has a print via USB option available.
  4. Version 1.0

    749 downloads

    I used another pattern and increased it's size so it could be used as a cup coaster. No special Cura settings outside of being printed with a brim and 100% infill.
  5. First off, don't give up! I spent quite a bit of time playing with my printer till it started working as advertised. A lot of reading, trial, error, and then more reading... I'm learning new things every day... #1 - First off, PLA and ABS have different melting points. Mixing these up could cause all sorts of issues. Lesson #1 is "screw what Cura says and work with the values for the filament itself". It should all be on the label of the product. If you don't have the correct temperatures the layers won't bond properly to each other. #2 - Glue CAN work, but I stay away from the glue sticks
  6. See my recent post about what I am doing for bed adhesion... I have found that the mantra "Make it stick like hell" to the build plate helps in the curling. The glue mixture I am using is a thing of the devil (just try removing a print while the bed is still hot) so I got that covered. The other factors (which I am still playing with) 1.) limit the infill 2.) use a raft - let the raft warp and your print stays fine. Other things I want to play with: 1.) Make the "open air" design of the UMO+ more closed in. I want to get some plexiglass and make sides for the printer to trap the he
  7. Also - I made a "large batch" of this mixture. If you keep it in a sealed container it should last for a long time. Overall cost to make this up, the brush and rags to apply/cleanup... $2.50 (all materials bought at a dollar store here in the U.S.) Can't beat the price...
  8. Wanted to follow up on this for closure on the topic. I have been experimenting a lot over the past couple months looking for the best over all means of bed adhesion. My solution is actually simple, cheap, and shockingly effective. Kapton tape (bitch to apply and expensive to use), Blue Tape (good for small prints, horrible for large ones), glue sticks (inconsistent spread over the build plate causing "pockets" of un-adhearable area), and AquaNet (messy to apply and runs the risk of gumming up the other mechanicals inside the printer) all have had inconsistent effects. Wider brims, anchors,
  9. I have done a thorough cleaning of the glass plate, spread a nice layer of glue, and also raised the bed temperature a couple degrees. It appears that I am maintaining my bonding to the build plate now. However, I might have a secondary issue now of curling on the corners of the build. Not sure if this is because of the increased temps on the bed or something else. More experimentation is in order I believe.
  10. I ask myself the same question... I have been tempted to make my printer kindling more then once However the forum community here has been incredibly helpful answering questions. Plus, I have learned A LOT about my printer in the process.
  11. It's pretty tight when it is on. It doesn't appear to be getting pinched, wedged, or anything odd. Just the knurled wheel creeps out. I'll try the printed part, and I am working to get an OEM version too. Thank guys for all your help!
  12. I will do a thorough cleaning of the plate tonight. I might play with the brim too. Does the bed temperature matter at all? 60 degrees should be enough?
  13. All the clip does is prevent the knurled shaft/large gear/gear cover/acorn nut assembly from working its way out. It snaps on and off the shaft to make it easy to remove the assembly and clean the knurled shaft if needed. You should contact your reseller to get a replacement clip. They will probably direct you to fbrc8 who are the Ultimaker service center for the USA. Your UMO+ has a 1-year warranty, so keep that in mind. I just reached out to them. In the mean time, I'm going to see about the printable version of the clip. The feeder should be able to stay together for something as sm
  14. Yeah, the cotter pin I have is long enough that it rests on the bolts like the video shows, but it bounces back and forth between two of the nuts during extraction/retraction steps in the print.
  15. That part was not in the kit. I know... thank you Ultimaker... I have printed one out, though, but haven't installed it yet. Instead I have a long cotter pin that extends out and bounces between two of the nuts on the back side of the feeder (back side from the angle of looking at the gear). I figured that the cotter pin is enough, but obviously it is not. Does this Delrin clip do more then a cotter pin? Is there some other subtle piece of engineering (that I am missing) and design of this clip I am missing verses using a cotter pin?
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