Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

About bsilverwood

  • Birthday 11/20/1974

Personal Information

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hey everyone - any concerns I should have with trying PETG on an UMO+? I noticed that the settings for it is not in Cura (so I will have to plug those in myself it seems). Any tidbits of lessons and info would be great!
  2. Looks like stringing... Temp and retraction values tend to solve this. Verify you are using the proper temps for the material used. Also, ensure you have retraction going on. See the link below: How to Fix Stringing
  3. Cura 2.4 has a print via USB option available.
  4. Version 1.0


    I used another pattern and increased it's size so it could be used as a cup coaster. No special Cura settings outside of being printed with a brim and 100% infill.
  5. First off, don't give up! I spent quite a bit of time playing with my printer till it started working as advertised. A lot of reading, trial, error, and then more reading... I'm learning new things every day... #1 - First off, PLA and ABS have different melting points. Mixing these up could cause all sorts of issues. Lesson #1 is "screw what Cura says and work with the values for the filament itself". It should all be on the label of the product. If you don't have the correct temperatures the layers won't bond properly to each other. #2 - Glue CAN work, but I stay away from the glue sticks because they tend to not lay down on the bed in a nice even coating covering all the workspace. I instead use a mixture of 1 part Elmer's Glue to 2 parts water and spread thin coat of it across the bed. I have a writeup about this in another post (HERE). #3 - I have experienced the ambient room temperature thing to a degree (I can get excessive curling on large prints - similar but different to what you are seeing). I am looking into putting on plexiglass sides on my printer to help trap the heat in while still being able to look inside (this supposedly helps in adhesion, bonding, and curling). #4 - I would also ensure your bed is level and you have the right spacing between the print head and the bed. I use a business card to measure the gap (I want to say it is a .2 gap?). Also, verify your print layers are not too far apart. If there is too much of a gap, and if your ambient room temperature is low, you could have the plastic start to cool off before the bond is made (either on the bed or between layers). #5 - Have you also considered turning off the cooling fan? If low temperatures are your issue, you might be exasperating it with the additional cooling of the fans.
  6. See my recent post about what I am doing for bed adhesion... I have found that the mantra "Make it stick like hell" to the build plate helps in the curling. The glue mixture I am using is a thing of the devil (just try removing a print while the bed is still hot) so I got that covered. The other factors (which I am still playing with) 1.) limit the infill 2.) use a raft - let the raft warp and your print stays fine. Other things I want to play with: 1.) Make the "open air" design of the UMO+ more closed in. I want to get some plexiglass and make sides for the printer to trap the heat inside. I have heard this can help a lot (drafts can cause uneven cooling which leads to warping). 2.) print slower and at a lower temperature. Personally, with all the other playing around I have been doing, I'm getting tired of all the trial and error testing I have been doing. This might be a "last ditch effort" if it gets annoying enough to me.
  7. Also - I made a "large batch" of this mixture. If you keep it in a sealed container it should last for a long time. Overall cost to make this up, the brush and rags to apply/cleanup... $2.50 (all materials bought at a dollar store here in the U.S.) Can't beat the price...
  8. Wanted to follow up on this for closure on the topic. I have been experimenting a lot over the past couple months looking for the best over all means of bed adhesion. My solution is actually simple, cheap, and shockingly effective. Kapton tape (bitch to apply and expensive to use), Blue Tape (good for small prints, horrible for large ones), glue sticks (inconsistent spread over the build plate causing "pockets" of un-adhearable area), and AquaNet (messy to apply and runs the risk of gumming up the other mechanicals inside the printer) all have had inconsistent effects. Wider brims, anchors, and the like needed to be added to the prints in order for some of these to work semi-constantly. The solution was simple after scouring messages boards. I will take no credit for this solution, but I will attest that it works: 1 part Elmer's Glue to 2 parts water. Mix and apply with a brush and/or rag to smooth it out evenly (found applying on a warm bed is easier and it dries quicker). Parts stick EXTREMELY well on this. Make sure the plate is COMPLETELY cooled before you attempt to take them off (I have actually broke parts I printed because I tried to remove them before the plate is completely cooled). You will sometimes hear a "pop" of the plastic releasing from the build plate when it is completely cooled. Cleanup is easy. Elmer's Glue is water based, so hot water cleans it off. Of course it is recommended that you also clean your plate off with alcohol before and between applications. I have so far successfully printed about 10 prints with one application of this (I think I can still do many more prints before having to re-apply the coating. I am testing this out, but at this rate I might go another week or two before hitting failure and I wanted to update this post first). As long as you let the bed cool off before removing the part and also "dust off" the build plate between prints (remove any other debris with a lint free rag) you should be good. pre-mature removal of parts, besides potentially damaging them as mentioned above, can mess with the coating and you will need to re-apply. I hope this helps anyone coming across the same issues...
  9. I have done a thorough cleaning of the glass plate, spread a nice layer of glue, and also raised the bed temperature a couple degrees. It appears that I am maintaining my bonding to the build plate now. However, I might have a secondary issue now of curling on the corners of the build. Not sure if this is because of the increased temps on the bed or something else. More experimentation is in order I believe.
  10. I ask myself the same question... I have been tempted to make my printer kindling more then once However the forum community here has been incredibly helpful answering questions. Plus, I have learned A LOT about my printer in the process.
  11. It's pretty tight when it is on. It doesn't appear to be getting pinched, wedged, or anything odd. Just the knurled wheel creeps out. I'll try the printed part, and I am working to get an OEM version too. Thank guys for all your help!
  12. I will do a thorough cleaning of the plate tonight. I might play with the brim too. Does the bed temperature matter at all? 60 degrees should be enough?
  13. All the clip does is prevent the knurled shaft/large gear/gear cover/acorn nut assembly from working its way out. It snaps on and off the shaft to make it easy to remove the assembly and clean the knurled shaft if needed. You should contact your reseller to get a replacement clip. They will probably direct you to fbrc8 who are the Ultimaker service center for the USA. Your UMO+ has a 1-year warranty, so keep that in mind. I just reached out to them. In the mean time, I'm going to see about the printable version of the clip. The feeder should be able to stay together for something as small as this.
  14. Yeah, the cotter pin I have is long enough that it rests on the bolts like the video shows, but it bounces back and forth between two of the nuts during extraction/retraction steps in the print.
  15. That part was not in the kit. I know... thank you Ultimaker... I have printed one out, though, but haven't installed it yet. Instead I have a long cotter pin that extends out and bounces between two of the nuts on the back side of the feeder (back side from the angle of looking at the gear). I figured that the cotter pin is enough, but obviously it is not. Does this Delrin clip do more then a cotter pin? Is there some other subtle piece of engineering (that I am missing) and design of this clip I am missing verses using a cotter pin?
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!