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ChrisRiddell

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Posts posted by ChrisRiddell

  1. One of your photos...I think the last, showed the slider block really really close to the belt.  I'd be curious, while you are manually moving the print head around, if one of those slider blocks it rubbing against the teeth of the belt.

     

    Had a good look and none of the belts contact the blocks. Starting to think maybe its a bearing :(as nothing looks like its coming into contact and none of the belts look like there slipping.

    going over my videos with this one I was stumped as to why holding the fan mount stopped the sound, it looks like there is some slack with the shaft and the bearing and makes like a clicking sound. like the slack/play is a 45 degree angle movement on the Y shaft at the head.

  2. Btw, just to be sure sure... Since you hold the fancap when it moves, maybe the sound comes from the linear bearings? Just to be sure before you disassemble anything :D

    Cheers!

     

    Okay was in the process on putting an a differnt fan mount and well we can rule that out still makes the sound even with the fan mount off

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUSFoQgey3A

     

    On one of my UM2 I had a weird sound coming from the same corner, left back. But it was rather a squeeking sound, like rubber tyres, or like chalk on a blackboard.

    It was very hard to locate, as it seemed to come from everywhere around that corner. Eventually I found it came from the rubber belt (the one from the stepper motor) sliding agains the flanges of its wheels. Rubbing the side of the belt with silicon grease solved the problem. I used the thick, inert white grease that is also used in microscopes and binoculars, *not* silicon oil, and definitely not petrochemical oils (may damage the rubber).

    I found it by manually pushing the belt sideways while printing a small piece, or while moving the head by hand.

    Your sound is different, but maybe it could come from the teeth of the belt rubbing against the flanges?

     

    just tried pushing the belt sideways while moving the head the rattle/grind is still there.

  3.  

     

    If a fancap changes the PID then the fancap is sending air where it shouldn't...

    Doesn't look bad. The e3d sock is a nice addition always...

     

    I might give it ago (just putting the fan-mount on) can't hurt the worst that can happen is I put the original one back on.

    Also want to thank you so much for your time in replying to my topics.

     

    No problem I try to help, I always learn something out of it :)

    Btw, just to be sure sure... Since you hold the fancap when it moves, maybe the sound comes from the linear bearings? Just to be sure before you disassemble anything :D

    Anyhow, if bending a bit the metal fix it, at least you know that the issue is that and nothing else.

    Cheers!

     

    bending the bit of metal did not fix it but doing a axis alignment (still might not be perfect as getting to some of the grub screws was a pain as I could not get both to show with the tool clicked in) reduced the rattle heaps.

    Is there an easy way of checking the linear bearings to be sure its not them.

  4. If a fancap changes the PID then the fancap is sending air where it shouldn't...

    Doesn't look bad. The e3d sock is a nice addition always...

     

    I might give it ago (just putting the fan-mount on) can't hurt the worst that can happen is I put the original one back on.

    Also want to thank you so much for your time in replying to my topics.

    • Like 1
  5. Afaik @labern fancap is pretty nice.

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-dual-nozzle-fan-shroud

    But I never used that, read the info on the youmagine.

     

    Thanks I'll have a look at that one.

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/fan-mount-um2-olsson-block

    I also found this one but in the comments it says to run PID autotune do you think it would really be necessary to do so?

  6. I have managed to reduce the rattle by following this, it's not fully gone but no where as loud as it was,

    https://ultimaker.com/en/community/39491-very-challenging-gaps-between-infill-and-outline-solving#reply-175237

    It was a real challenge doing it as one side grub screw would show but not the other but got there in the end and it must of needed doing as moving the head back to front its so much smoother now.

  7. Maybe the part that is rumbling is just the metal near the air-exit, check if bending it very slighly fix it. Also check that the screws are in place. I have very little experience with that fancap since I removed it just 2h after installing it... Maybe someone more experience with um2+ fancap can drop some knowhow?

     

    if I can not work it out can you recommend a printable fan mount?

  8. Is really hard to tell. Could you make photos of all the pulleys, even motor (as much as it can be, since is a hard angle)? Also x/y hotend shafts to the sliderblocks?

     

    Okay when I was getting the photo's while moving the head I found this. I was very careful when moving the head by holding the fan cover it would not rattling.

  9. Umm well let's check the basics.

    When was the last time you oiled the shafts?

    Does the belt on the motor corner rub against any cable (endstop) or something like that?

     

    I oiled them lastnight when I noticed the sound, and was oiled about a month before that. (only only done about 20 hours of printing in that time had a slow month)

    The wiring for the end stops is not touching the belt.

    Moved the head to the middle the moved it to the left a little and measured from the thin to the thick shaft and its only about 0.2mm different from front to back and the same on the right side.

  10. I need help,

    My printer has started to make this rattle type sound on the Y axis. can only hear if the movement is slow-ish can not hear it when it's printing at 40mm/s +.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jG94XJy4WJ0

    With the printer turned off if you slowly move the print head from back to front you can hear it plus it feel not as small as moving the head side to side. like it feels more steppy if that makes sense, I have put some sewing machine oil on the rods with no improvement.

    Here is some photo's of the print it does not look like quality has gone down, well on the cura fast setting for PLA its gotten a little more ringing but it has always been like that from day one but don't think as bad.

    40mm/s

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ShX0fxi4PutKeM3KguRSdQemK-18Wojt9Q

    60mm/s

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=15Fp3TQ_ciw1H8F8cI1m_5SBTfZnrz6rCrw

    Does anyone know what's going on is it anything to worry about?

  11. Weird the space isn't 16.8 Can you post a photo of your hotend? I just ask because if you ever got a leak between the steel coupler and olsson, filament can stay there on the threads, changing the distance. Dunno if you had the chance to check if everything was clean on the steel coupler. Ofc if it works it works. Just keep an eye for the first 1-2h prints to check if there's any leak.

     

    I did not check if there was any leak between the steel coupler and olsson, here is a photo,

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1KEjJlS15NGhhUVoiIqbPr3KpaopFI8g-KQ

    Now I have pulled it apart and know how I can do it again if there is melted filament how do I clean that out?

  12.  

    483 hours (going by the status under the maintenance menu) with mostly PLA use with some colorfabb ngen.

     

    Well it should have last longer but is around the time it can last. I think maybe the coupler was more tight that it should be and the pressure, since TFM is more flexible than the old PTFE (but OFC old PTFE Couplers only did last 50-200h, so 500h is a good improvement anyhow) if isn't perfectly install it has less life span. Did you use the printed spacer to install that TFM? Was it perfect on the spot?

     

    I printed the spacer and made sure it measured 16.8mm but with the new TFM in even the old one could not get it to tighten down to it but its snug and measures (the section the spacer sits in) with my calipers at 17.18mm

    and a test print came out alot better then it did with the old ftm.

    • Like 1
  13.  

    Okay looking down the hole it was nolonger round :/

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pMdKlk1wQMQRMWll5NMuQ4wR-uIUM3PdSQ

    how would that of happened?

     

    The erosion of the filament, or use. Or, when assembled the pressure was a bit more than needed, crushing the coupler a bit and making its life span shorter.

    In theory the TFM last 500-2000 print hours. How many your has?

     

    483 hours (going by the status under the maintenance menu) with mostly PLA use with some colorfabb ngen.

  14.  

     

    The spacer can be printed

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-printhead-spacer

    Read the description @Sandervg left about size to double check before using it.

    Well 388h print time seems low to damage the TFM, but depends on the temperatures used I suppose. Did you use very high temp materials? Maybe it needs more atomics or lowering/raising the temp 5-10C to pull the material since from brand to brand the temperature needed to atomic might change a bit.

     

    Sorry to bring the post back to life but thinking my TFM might be on its way out still as when it primes before a print it entrusts alot less then it did before and getting really weird issues with prints.

    How long does a TFM normally last when printing in the 210-230c range I'm now in the 500 hours.

     

    Check this post and the next 3-4 post

    https://ultimaker.com/en/community/35497-is-the-ruby-nozzle-for-the-olsson-block-for-sale?page=3#reply-172875

     

    Thanks that helped alot removed the filament and took the nozzle off and slide filament goes in with almost no resistance but when pulling up there is alot of resistance and shining light down the hole and looking in you can see a little black brim between the TFM and the heater block (if thats what you call it?) so I'll give my ultimaker reseller a call tomorrow and hopefully have them in stock.

    • Like 1
  15. The spacer can be printed

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-printhead-spacer

    Read the description @Sandervg left about size to double check before using it.

    Well 388h print time seems low to damage the TFM, but depends on the temperatures used I suppose. Did you use very high temp materials? Maybe it needs more atomics or lowering/raising the temp 5-10C to pull the material since from brand to brand the temperature needed to atomic might change a bit.

     

    Sorry to bring the post back to life but thinking my TFM might be on its way out still as when it primes before a print it entrusts alot less then it did before and getting really weird issues with prints.

    How long does a TFM normally last when printing in the 210-230c range I'm now in the 500 hours.

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