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Dana

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    23
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About Dana

  • Birthday 06/21/1971

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
    Engineering
    R&D / Exploration
  • Country
    GB
  1. this is excellent, thanks for letting me know, its really changed my printing although I have to do some serious tweaks to my print profiles. also I cannot seem to save a customer profile from current settings, it goes through the motions just doesn't save it...
  2. I will try and make it in PETG, I think that will be better and look better
  3. Hi Geert, I think of static but I would expect it to discharge and damage the board permanently, I also tried to flee the board outside of the box but nothing really happened, I will get a meeter and see whats actually happening, this could change my design somewhat or at least my material (if I can figure out these material profile thingies) Dan
  4. Hi All, does anyone know or has anyone had any experience with Polymax being conductive? I built a box for an Arduino and if its in the box it will not load a sketch (program) I thought it could be squeezing the bird and opening a dry joint but it will only work with a bit of card in the bottom, really the only thing it could be is the pins on the bottom shorting out this really surprised me as I would have expected it to be insulating, I do not have a multimeter to hand here to test it out, would be interested if anyone knows or can recommend other materials that are not conductive in any way I did try to print the box in PETG but was having problems with material settings (my last post) regards Dan
  5. ahha! thanks for the information and advice, I will look into the Marlin setting, that would be absolutely great if I can do all the setup in Cura, I just don't have as much time as I would like to tinker with the other option I must say that regardless of my limited knowledge in this area I have a low failure rate and some really cracking functional results, almost all of my prints are functional prototypes thanks a lot for your help Dan
  6. so I found a relatively new post that defines two import/export options, looks like I need to modify the text file to import new materials, so why is there an import/export option in Cura for materials? also this means you could set up your print in Cura with one material and a profile but on the printer the material can be different, I don't get why you would do this or what the result will be as surely the print profile is somewhat related to the material... should the printer material exactly reflect the materials in Cura? it is quite labour intensive to create a new material and then export/modify and import the txt file back into the printer every time you buy a new type of filament...
  7. I am really having problems with this part of the set up still, please can someone respond with line by line instructions, there is no point in directing me to an old link that is only slightly related when I buy a new material I need to create a "material" with the costs and print settings right? I have just loaded PET ICE Cunning Clear and it says check compatibility and will not load any profile....(in Cura) so each print needs the material setting and profile setting, I assume when the object is sliced the Gcode states the print profile only? the material needs to be exported from Cura and imported on the printer so the printer knows the temperature and heated bed settings? well I can export the materials one-by-one to the SD card but the printer will not import them, it cannot find any files on the card can someone please help me out here, I am sure its very simple but I just cannot find any resource that lays this out in simple terms regards Dan
  8. Hello I hope someone can help me out with a few questions I need to update Cura to v3 when I do this will I lose my custom material profiles? (it did last time I updated) is there a process to stop this happening? do I always have to plug in my Ultimaker 2+ to my Mac at the same time as the Cura update to update the printers firmware? also I want to add my custom material profiles to my Ultimaker 2+ is there any way of importing from Cura without changing the MATERIAL.TXT file? when I update firmware will I lose these profiles? when I make a project in Cura what settings information is in the Code file on the SD card? because retraction and fan settings can be made in Cura but they are also in MATERIAL.TXT... sorry if these are basic questions but I just do this as a hobby and I cannot spend multiple hours tinkering with the thing every time I want to make something or update software I would also like to know how ofter is this software going to be updated as it seems 2.7 has only just come out and these frequent changes are a bit of a task if I have to change all of the above every time many thanks of you do reply Dan
  9. and I just tried to follow the instructions from the link above, this kind of thing frustrates the hell out of me, I have say 8 custom materials in Cura, it has an export option, it exports in xml not text, so I cannot even copy-cut&paste into the Material.txt file.... what is the point of the export function in cura?
  10. err so after a year of owning my Ultimaker I did not realise this, I thought the material settings were in the Gcode, I do not normally have problems printing but this would explain some issues I had when changing to exotic materials.... I think that this highlights that this "hobby" will remain exactly that until it becomes more consumer friendly (and by consumer I mean non tech-savvy). I do not have the time or inclination to sit on forums in order to know everything about Gcode and manual settings etc, I just want to design something and print it for functional items. I would say more than half the items I design end up printing well and being used, 25% are concepts and there are always a couple of failures, the latest being Brassfill and I am thinking that may be because of the material settings now I honestly didn't know that after you put the material settings into Cura you need to export/import it to the printer, even if that is the case I would expect that to happen when you plug the computer into the printer for an update??
  11. Dana

    PLA Ripples

    I believe it was .8mm as I was using standard PLA settings on fast and light fill
  12. Dana

    PLA Ripples

    so I seem to have resolved the problem but I do not know the cause, I didn't follow my own rule of fault finding i.e. do one thing at a time. instead I reset the bed (actually I think its still too close but it worked) I also reorientated the piece on the bed avoiding the top left corner, I put a little oil on the rails. So it worked but if I have the issue again I will not know how to resolve it in one step, not great for tuning here are the results, the white one is a PoC which didn't actually work. it has magnets in the back but it wouldn't hold bigger knives so I added two slots to the copper fill versions and halved the word thickness I covered the copper fill in salt and vinegar over night and gave it a quick polish, there is a bit more finishing to do thanks for all your advice and suggestions
  13. Dana

    PLA Ripples

    ok will try that thanks. thanks for your reply "Tidal Waves" is a good description of the problem, I googled that and didn't find anything so you probably just invented a new phrase/description just wanted to add that the two times I tried this print were with completely new designs but same dimensions and orientation on the bed the second time I really made sure that there was the same about of glue over the print area so it must only be one of the following surely Bed heating Bed level alignment of the nozzle, drive chain etc I didn't have this before, the only thing that I have changed is new cura and firmware
  14. Dana

    PLA Ripples

    thanks for your reply, I don't have any other slicer, perhaps I should try that I am new to this so was trying to keep life simple
  15. Dana

    PLA Ripples

    looking under a jewellers glass I can see that in the bottom picture on the bed face the extruded lines seem to cross over, its like the extruder is jumping sideways slightly and the layer is splitting into two, one side is higher than the other. then over the next 10mm it merges back into one layer, this happens on every line, very odd. for the top pictures the extruded material seems more rounded underneath which I presume is a levelling issue? i.e. not pushing the first layer into the bed enough? is a very very small difference
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