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Posts posted by the_mechanical

  1. Hi ultimativmaker,

    my experience with ABS on UMO+

    I like ABS and nearly never change the material. Cheap, easy to get, easy to post-process - especially glueing with Acetone helps to fix improper prints or cracks due to mounting or whatever (but it needs some exercise to find out how to do it for good results).

    Heatbed - 110°C : Needs very long to reach on UMO+ (especially when not fully covered), adhesion ONLY on Glass-plate - i do not use anything else. I like it very much to print with more or less good adhesion and VERY easy removal when the plate is cooled down. At the moment i'm printing ABS on Prusa i3MK2 with PEI on the heated bed (100°C) and its very difficult to get the parts off the plate - destroyed also the PEI sheet on some areas.

    Nozzle - 230-250°C, depending on your ABS and Hotend:

    I printed good results with the UMO+ Hotend (0.4mm nozzle), never concerned about long lifetime, at the beginning i didn't know it better ;-) and later the plan was to move to E3DV6. Concerning temp. you have to try depending on your ABS - for ABS from Orbi-tech i used 250°C for the first layer and 245°C for the rest, it was good for my needs. Fan speed 30%, regular fan speed at layer 5.

    If you change your Hotend to E3DV6 - be aware!!

    It is often said that no cooling is recommended or needed for ABS - after my experience i'm in doubt. When i changed to E3DV6 i only got scrap at the beginning, mainly because i had no cooling for the nozzle, but also adjustements in temperature. After designing a fan mount for my dual-hotend (using 40mm fans) it was much better, usable results when running the fan(s) between 60-100%. I redesigned the fan mount for 50mm fans, now i'm running them with 50% (reg. at layer 5) resulting in good prints.

    So try it out for your configuration - according to my experience cooling preferences are essential - contrary to other opinions/experiences.


    yea, is a problem. Better with PLA, no doubt. When i had problems with warping the part was partially loosened from the build plate. Then using a glue stick helped for me, or try also other propagated methods (hairspray, abs-acetone or whatelse). First layer is important - check your nozzle/bed adjustement to get a good first layer with slow printing speed (no cooling on first layers!).

    On my Prusa (PEI-sheet) i have no problems with warping at the moment (don't know if the used material or the used temps/adjustements are crucial) - but removal of the parts from the build plate is very difficult :-/


    shrinking is a problem but this occurs with nearly all materials. Find out what you need, get experience and consider it in the design phase (when modelling). F.eks. clearance holes for M3 i design with at least 3.3mm (better 3.5mm). This topic is quite complex, depending on the geometry (holes, shafts, ...) and size the shrinkage varies. Wheter you print PLA or ABS - the problem is the same, the adjustements/corrections differ. No chance to correct ALL with a global scaling factor in Cura.

    If you need further help, send me a message. Maybe i can help with some Cura config-files. But anyway, you have to try it out...

    Good luck

  2. Hi DDDmaker,

    my assumption is you use Windows.

    I'll answer the initial question concerning my experience on Linux (for the sake of completeness): If you use the appimages of Cura (standalone executable program) it is possible to use different versions without any problems (never tried it starting both versions at the same time - would make no sense but i can imagine it works too), the existing configurations are used. These appimages are available since v2.4.

    Didn't try to install two different versions with the .deb-files, but i claim it is possible to install one of the deb-versions (up to 2.3.1) AND use a version of the appimage.

    An additional possibility is dual boot Win and Linux *gg*

  3. Hi,

    since Cura 2.5 i realize quite some problems i never had to fight with before. So I'm feeling like Cura is getting worse. Maybe due to a lot of new functions (of which are some quite good for non-expert users like me).

    Of course it's always a discussion what is "better" and what "worse" ;-)

    All of the stuff below i didn't realize or had to fight with in the versions before 2.5/2.4.

    Incomplete last layers, first i realized this on a print where i saw the last layer was not complete. Then i saw that this problem occurs more often:



    At earlier versions i never realized the thing, that when a Z-Offset is given for the support the first Layer is quite different. This leads to the problem, that the first Layer of the part is not adhesing on the build plate because then the distance is already 0.3mm instead of the given 0.1mm (at 0.2mm layer height). Not one print was succesfull with these settings. With 0 distance it was good, but the support was more difficult to remove.



    And: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/49197-unwanted-useless-retractions-cura-25

    I'm really thinking to give Cura to trash and use an other slicer instead. Since i've also a Dual-extrusion-modification on UMO+  it seems better to use Slic3r or maybe a commercial slicer. Dual extrusion is not usable with Cura at the moment if you don't have a UM3 (at least i couldn't figure out, even with a custom printer profile).

    Let's see how 2.6 is doing, but it seems time to say good bye?





  4. I understand what you mean, nevertheless the wall is done with 0.5mm and that does not fit to the 1mm which it should be. Where is the part of the "inner wall"??

    And I'm as a user don't want to think about such special things.

    So a request: would it be possible to give at least a warning if in a "small area" a lot of retractions happen? This would make one aware. In this case i realized it during printing. At generatig the gcode i never thought that this would be a problem - as said wall thickness 1mm should cover it.

    Better would be that this never happens.

  5. I printed a part preprocessed with Cura 2.5. When printing i realized a lot of retractions where i didn't expect them. When looking in Cura i found out why:

    Between the inner and outer wall there is a done filling, but due to the small distance it is not possible to create something else than small lines - every one produces a retraction.


    Thickness is 1.5mm, Nozzle 0.5mm

    I thought about how i can remove this behaviour, but even increasing the wall thickness from 1mm to 3mm didn't help.

    What i was wondering: The thickness of the area is 1.5mm - should be covered with the wall thickness AND 3x0.5 linewidth. Why not??? And why is the software making very short lines instead of a line thorugh?

    That you can imagine: on the part are four such geometries, every causes about 20 retractions. This means about 80 retractions for these geometries on every layer, means for the 360 layers around 7200 extra/useless/unwanted retractions!!

    Of course you can tell me - increase the retraction minimum travel or disable retractions. But with the used preferences i got good results, so i'll not change them.


  6. The problems is sometimes the nema 17 "snaps back".

    It looks to me that torque not enough or i dont know :/


    Hi Stefan,

    had this problem too, especially on my second printer, a Prusa i3MK2. It really seems like you think, too less torque. Therefore i solved this problem at Prusa i3MK2 with a geared bowden extruder instead of the direct drive extruder.

    I ended up in a modified solution of chopmeisters H3-Extruder:


    At the moment I'm modifying my UMO+ to dual extrusion and the second extruder will be one H3+Extruder (I'll not replace the original extruder at the moment as it is working quite well). At the Prusa the new extruder is working very well with 1.75mm filament, at the UMO+ it has to run with 2.85mm filament.

    In my opinion a geared extruder is best for reliable working, the nozzle clogs vanished at Prusa since i have the geared extruder - it seems it is strong enough to press clogs through the nozzle. Another solution would be a stronger motor (nema 23?).

  7. Hi,

    due to some other planned modifications I've to create a CAD-Assembly for my UMO+ (no assembly in github). For the axes it was easier to take the assembly from UM2+ and modify it to UMO+.

    There i realized that UM2+ uses different bearings - F688-2RS instead of 688-2RS. The difference is a step in diameter.


    In combination with some spacers between the pulleys and the bearings it seems for me that axes-protrusion is a much smaller problem on UM2+.

    I already tried the adjustable beraing caps but there is a lot of abrasion, so I'm thinking about an other solution. Of course it is not an all-day problem, but I never want to care about this any more!

    So guys who own an UM2+ - do you have Problems with axis-protrusion too? How often, how severe?

    UMO+ guys - how did you manage this problem?

    Would it be a solution to use thrust bearings? Miniature bearings like F3-6M or F3-8M would maybe also fit in an axis cap, if one side is adjustable with a screw you'll get no clearance and no protrusion anymore....

    We will see...

  8. Olsson block as it is doesn't fit on umo (been there trying that).

    Check the github of UM2+, there you have step files of the olsson. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Plus


    Thanks neotko, didn't think about that ;-)

    First of all I'll try to get the E3D V6 working, then I'll decide if i think more about getting the Olsson Block on my UMO+. For printing PLA it could be still interesting...

    Thanks for your help!

  9. Hi @all,

    thanks for your replies.

    The reason why i'm thinking to "port" the Olsson Block to UMO+ is the fast and easy changing of nozzles as well as a lot of people are very satisfied with the Olsson Block.

    And it's quite easy to get, also different nozzles.

    An upgrade kit is quite expensiv, costs nearly the half of UMO+!! And i don't want to change the feeder, also dual fan is not necessary. Mostly i print ABS with fan speed (original UMO+ fan) around 30%.

    As an mechanical engineer it's not the problem to design a fitting solution, also i maybe have the possibility to get some manufactured parts. But without knowing the dimensions of the block... The other way would be buying a Olsson Block, measure the parts and then design a suitable solution. But i would like to do the other way.

    I also ordered E3D V6 Hotends. But it will take some time until i can test these...

  10. Hi everybody,

    has anybody tried to install Cura 2.3 on Debian Stretch?

    I tried without luck.



    And now i'm getting stucked with:


    *** Error in `python3.4': free(): invalid pointer: 0x00007fae983c4540 ***


    Anyone an idea? I'm not a Linux-newbie, but no System-Administrator - only a (advanced) user.

  11. Hi joshmith,

    it's depending on your needs and on your budget. There are a lot of commercial programs (beside Solidworks). I have used several of them in job. My opinion:

    Autodesk Inventor - quite easy to use, good for most modelling operations

    Siemens PLM NX (former Unigraphics) - better in modelling than Inventor

    Dassault Systèmes CATIA (V5, V6) - good for surface modelling

    Creo Parametric (former Pro/Engineer) - only used Pro/E Wildfire, a little bit more complicated than the other ones, but quite good for modelling difficult parts.

    If i have some time, i want to try the open source program FreeCad - sounds good, maybe a good opinion ;-)

    For commercial software making drawings out of the parts is essential, especially there are quite big differences between the programs. Since this is not essential for 3D-Printing maybe FreeCad is doing all that you need? Try it out (available for Win, Mac, Linux).

    Maybe you tell us later which program was best for you.

  12. Performance Issue / Idea

    I'm using Cura 2.3 Beta under Linux since it's here, I'm relatively new to 3D-Printing, so I don't know Versions before 2.1.

    I'm fighting with performance under Linux because I usually print small parts. These are often one model which were duplicated more times in Cura. Every time an action is done Cura is automatically slicing. If you have more than 1 part and duplicate it Cura tries automatically to rearrange. Your arrangement made by hand is destroyed (especially when you have for example 10 small parts or more it is really annoying) and it takes a lot of ressources. As soon this is done, slicing begins. But if the count and arrangement isn't done these needed resources are only time wasting (and not too little).

    Would it be possible to start slicing not before the positioning and editing the Print Setup is done? I could imagine a "Start Slicing" button, and maybe a checkbox if slicing shoud be done immediately or after pressing the button.

    Another idea would be a duplication/arrangement where you can define the count and the order f.ex. 10x, 5 rows and 2 colums, with given distance or automatically calculated distance.

    Similar to the arrangements how used in CAD-Systems.

    If these things already exists and i have not seen it, please tell me ;-)

    Maybe worth thinking about it.


  13. Hi,

    i'm not sure, but maybe this is the same problem, only in an other scale?

    The result:


    but it should be this:


    It's a small part, should be a wedge for a connection of a GT2-Belt - width is about 7mm.

    Any ideas?

    I'll also try to print one with the mentioned suggestions (Temp. reduction, without retraction, lower print speed).



  14. Thanks for your replies.

    The 3Dverkstan site is very good. I had a look on the z-axis, tried lubrication and adjusting. There is really a part where the axis is sliding heavy. And it's indeed about 10-15mm from the z-End. What's really strange for me is that also this 10-15mm is very common. And looks like the problem is existing since at least two years - and no one is fixing it!!!

    Seems like i have to change the z-axis too.

    Have the UMO+ since a week, already ordered a GT2 belt and pulleys due to roundness problems, now the z-axis problems, at the moment i'm also having a look on faulty dimensions. So i can't recommend a UMO+ anymore (of course i don't know other products).

  15. Hi

    I'm using an UMO+ since a week - so there is not much experience ;-)

    I don't know why, but in every part there are some bad layers - see pictures.P9220109.thumb.JPG.511465739457a293e7cf29d504a487bb.JPG P9220105.thumb.JPG.2299096fbbeec49f9a3aaa65960ee99e.JPG

    In the beginning all is ok, the results are good, but after a while there is one (or more) bad layer(s). The z-height where the bad layers are occuring differs only a little - mostly between 10 and 11mm.

    Have anyone an idea where the problem is?

    After problems with the feeder (Screws get losse, so feeder stopped working - solved) it should be no feeding problem.

    Used Cura 2.1.3 for all parts (2.3 beta is not working - no slicing, so not possible to save the g-code file).

    Material the Ultimaker PLA provided with the UMO+

    Hardware / Software Problem? PT100 failing for a while?

    Someone with similar problems?

    Thanks for your help.



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