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vitalsparks last won the day on March 15 2018

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  1. I recently had to repair a coin-sorter, where the motor drive gear had split in two. It was very small (only 4mm dia), so I was surprised to find that my UM2 made a perfect replacement. I used a 0.25mm nozzle with Innofil3D Fusion ABS (remarkable stuff) printed at 10mm/sec with 80% fan. The repair was a total success What tiny items have you made? Here is the gear sitting on a 5p coin
  2. vitalsparks

    Flexible Filament?

    Here's an example of Verbatim's Primalloy flexible filament (right) compared with the best result I have obtained with any other filament previously (I think the one on the left was PolyFlex). These objects are approx 12mm dia. They were both printed on a UM2 with original black feeder, using 0.4mm nozzle on Olsson Block.
  3. vitalsparks

    Flexible Filament?

    Printing with flexibles on Bowden fed printers can be a nightmare. I've had real problems in the past, but I obtained a sample of a new material at the TCT show last September that is very, very good. It is marketed by Verbatim and is called 55507 Primalloy 2.85mm. The guys on the stand said it works well on UM printers, and the results that I get agree.
  4. vitalsparks

    ABS Warping...not solved...

    Try Innofil's 'Fusion' ABS. This has zero warp, and can be printed directly on the glass without any adhesive of any kind. It is a 'professional' class of filament, so is a bit more expensive than most others - but well worth it for critical and difficult designs.
  5. It was me that posted about my FilCatch addon for my UM2. You can read about it and watch it in action on my website www.vitalsparks.com where you can download the model file. There are other things there too which you may be interested in. I have a mk2 version of FilCatch in the pipeline, which is adjustable, and should work on any Ultimaker. I will be providing an update when I am happy with it. I originally thought of making this using the wire from a large paperclip, but thought better of it when I realised that it could possibly get snagged with the nozzle/print head if it was accidentally displaced - hence the safe option of making it in plastic.
  6. Also, I predict he reason is because it does not have a uniform, or balance density in the Z axis. I have come across similar effects on 'tray' type models myself. If you had used a low-warp ABS like Filaprint Premium, then this would barely be noticeable.
  7. I have been using my UM2 on a near-daily basis since it was first released, and the machine tells me that I have clocked up over 1500 hours of printing time. I started with PLA, but soon migrated to ABS when the mechanical devices that I was building regularly failed under stress using PLA. It was not an easy transition, particularly because of the warping characteristic of ABS which made bed-adhesion a huge problem. I tried everything to overcome this, including Kapton, PCB sheet, ABS juice, etc. but nothing really worked when printing large flat areas for things with heights over a few millimeters. I even forked out for a sheet of BuildTak, but had real trouble getting some (large, flat) models to release after printing, and finally gave up with it after some models split (delaminated) during printing, and I damaged it badly removing one of my creations. I had even more trouble getting the BuildTak off the glass, which chipped in a couple of places, so I can only use one side of it now (keep meaning to buy a replacement...) After much deliberation, I finally found the solution(s) : Don't use cheap ABS - Get Premium grade, which has much lower warp, and better layer adhesion. This need not be expensive - I use 'FilaPrint Premium ABS' from 3DFilaprint.com - about £20/1kg (+free postage). Use a decent build-plate glue. After much experimentation, I have found two products that have served me extremely well over the last couple of years. They are both water-soluble (so the base of the models, and the build-plate are easy to wash), they release the models easily after the glass is cool, they scrape off the glass easily with a razor-blade scraper, and they are not expensive. The first is Bostik's Big Blue Stick, which goes on blue (you can see where it is), and dries clear. I use this for everything except the most demanding (large, flat) print. The second is a bottle of liquid glue made by Pritt. It is just called 'General Purpose Glue', and I buy it in Lidl stores when they have it. However, it is available from places on-line too if you search for it. This is the best adhesive of all, and I have successfully used it on models with a base area over 400sqCm. I just put several drops on the glass and rub it around in a circular motion with a 4cm dia 'rubber' that I printed some time ago. I hope this is of interest to someone struggling with ABS. Sorry the images are not showing, but this forum is driving me nuts. It has taken me hours to make this post, with several attempts failing to appear when I post them. Now, the images are not visible... agrrrrrrr! I was about to make significant post about how I have tamed my ultimaker into handling ABS perfectly, and eliminated nozzle clogging, filament grinding with repeated retractions, and various other tips including how to calibrate hot-end temperatures. But I don't think I will bother on this forum because even if I got the (essential) images to show up, I expect the post would soon become buried and lost as many other interesting ones that I have read here have. Basically, this forum engine is a disaster! Jeff P.S. Problem solved - I've migrated to http://www.3dprintingforum.us which is where a lot of original Ulti-experts now seem to hang out too - including Anders Olsson. So, if anyone wants to follow my journey through the improvements I have made to my Ultimaker machines and their workflow, then take a look there because, regretfully, I shall not be posting here again.
  8. I agree with you, but I think it is necessary to make the distinction between applications that are 'intended for beginners' and those that are 'also suitable for beginners' - which I would class Tinkercad as. Unfortunately, at a first glance at its user interface, it is easy to assume the former description. It is only after using it in anger on complex designs that its underlying functionality becomes evident. Having said that, it does not have a 'surface modelling' capability that would be required for organic/artistic shapes. However, with a little patience, a degree of 'aesthetic smoothing' can be manually added to a design to make its appearance more visually appealing. In my case I rarely need to do this as my designs are mainly intended as functional mechanical mechanisms, which it handles very well.
  9. In the 3 years since investing in my UM2, I have exclusively used Tinkercad to create my 3D mechanical designs. I know that many will scoff at this, and dismiss it as a 'classroom toy', but the reality is that I have been able to create over 100 mechanisms with it over this time, many of them highly intricate designs demanding high precision, and well matched to the Cura slicer and my printer. Couple with this the absence of a noticeable learning curve, and the speed at which things can be created, and I really cannot fault it. Whilst I concede that it is unlikely to satisfy the rigors of a professional work environment, or the aesthetic demands of an organic/artistic designer; for me, as an inventor who needs to turn ideas into reality quickly and accurately, and on a shoe-string, it is ideal.
  10. Yes, I used to do this too when I first got my UM2, but I found it to be less satisfactory when I moved from PLA to other types of filament, especially nylon types which do not cut easily and cleanly, unless the cutters are expensive precision flush-cutting types that are also in first-class condition. That is why I made the sharpener which has worked flawlessly ever since I started using it. Also, getting the filament easily into the feeder is only part of the story - ensuring it cannot catch on anything on the way to the nozzle is another advantage of having a symmetrical chamfer on the leading edge of it.
  11. Sounds like a good idea - easy to do in Cura with UM2? I have modified gcode for my Prusa i3 using Cura, but the facility does not seem to be there (to the best of my knowledge) for UM2.
  12. There is no doubt that the Ultimaker machines are extremely good, but there were a couple of aspects that I disliked right from the start. The worst one was the location of the filament reel and the feeder, which I found to be highly inconvenient especially since the feeder needs regular attention if the printer is being used every day. Another was the difficulty in loading new filaments, needing a lot of pressure to get it started without shaving the plastic and jamming the feeder, made worse of course because of the awkward location of the feeder. Also, on many occasions if I wasn't present at the point when the hotend was being primed, a great glob of plastic would be dragged onto the build-plate, collide with the printhead, and mess up the model. After the first few months, I was so frustrated with these problems that I set about solving them, with 100% success. These solutions have been in daily use for nearly 3 years now, and so I have decided to share them with fellow users here in the community as they have been thoroughly tried and tested. I had made videos of these in action and posted them on YouTube. I was going to post links to them here, but I decided instead to go the full mile and create a home for them on my website together with instant links to download the model (stl) files you need, and full details of how to print and use them. Here's my website - www.vitalsparks.com I had intended to start an Ultimaker section on my site over a year ago, but I knew it was going to be a huge effort to get the thing started, and free-time was not on my side. However, now I have kick-started it (prompted by the annual TCT 3D Printing Show at the NEC next week) I will find it much easier to move forward - and I still have loads of hints, tips, and mods to share. Just keep an eye on my website over the winter. If anyone here is going to the show, I may bump into you on Wednesday somewhere near the Ultimaker stand. Jeff

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