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vitalsparks last won the day on March 15 2018

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  1. I do not have a printer with that configuration (mine is UM2) so cannot comment with authority, but if you can remove heads, then perhaps you should try that first.
  2. Try heating with a hair dryer, then when soft remove with pliers/tweezers
  3. If you need to print in ABS, then I highly recommend ABS-X available from 3DFilaprint which boasts 'zero-warp' technology. I now use this exclusively for working mechanical parts as layer adhesion is also exceptional giving great strength. It does not cost any more than that from competing ABS filament manufacturers, and is available in a variety of colours. It also responds well to acetone smoothing.
  4. For ABS I use ABS-X from 3DFilaprint (this is link to black, but other colours available). It has excellent mechanical properties, and boasts 'Zero Warp' technology, which I find to be true. I have successfully printed many functional prototypes using this material.
  5. No problem - I was about to make a new post in this forum anyway, to highlight this amazing material, but I couldn't think of an easy way to demonstrate visually how good it was at solving the warping problem. Your posting gave me the inspiration to build a model that reproduced your problem, and demonstrate how good ABS-X was at overcoming it. What may be of some interest too, is the best glue-stick I have ever found for use on the buildplate. It has the attribute that it is blue when applied, and turns clear when ready for printing on a hot buildplate. The blue colour makes it easy to ensure the glue is spread evenly. It is easily removed from the build plate when cool with a suitable scraper, and it is soluble in water. It has worked well for me over the last couple of years except for those that warp excessively. In those cases, adding a wide brim usually succeeds. .
  6. I used to have problems like this with thin tall sections using ABS in my early days of printing with it. It is obviously to do with warping which ABS is (in)famously known for. Eventually I found a brand which is advertised as using 'zero warp' technology, which also boasts excellent layer adhesion, and reliable bed adhesion coupled with greater strength over previous ABS filament. Sounds too good to be true? Well, I've been using it now exclusively for over a year and I can honestly say - yes, it's all true. And the price is very reasonable - £23 incl vat and postage for 1kg reel. It is called Filaprint ABS-X from 3DFilaprint in the UK, although I believe it is manufactured in the Netherlands. Here is a link to the black version (there are several other colours too). This is also available as a 5M sample from 3DFilaprint at a modest price to try it yourself. To illustrate how good it is, I knocked up a simple model similar to that which you posted. The panel is 120mm x 80mm x 2mm, and it stands on a base 120mm x 15mm x 2mm. I printed this twice - once using Reprapper ABS (green) and secondly with ABS-X. Both were printed using 255deg, 80deg bed, zero fan, and at 70mm/sec. I enclosed the front of my UM2. As you can see, the regular ABS has split and, although difficult to see in this picture, had lifted off the base at the right On the other hand, the ABS-X was a successful print. Hope you find this useful, because there are many instances where ABS can still be a go-to choice.
  7. Try loading your stl file into a viewing program, to see if the problem is with the file I recommend this free program. It is also great for inspecting your model for errors, cross-sectioning, and measuring dimensions. https://www.3d-tool.com/en_free-viewer-download.htm
  8. I totally endorse this too. This brand of ABS is the best reasonably-priced one I have ever used - It has near-zero warp.
  9. Do not be 'sniffy' about, or underestimate the power of Tinkercad, especially for technical models. I have used it exclusively for over 4 years to design over 200 objects of varying complexity without needing to find an alternative. It is often dismissed as being too basic to be of any serious use, but this must surely be the opinion of those that have never really tried to use it. It is bristling with features that soon become apparent when using it. The learning curve is short and very easy and ideal for newcomers and seasoned users alike. Above all, it is highly intuitive. As an engineer myself, I thoroughly recommend using this software. Here is an example of a recent (two-piece) design I created to remove the stones from plums and slice them into 3 pieces ready for jam making. This is by no means the most intricate thing I have produced.
  10. That's what my measurements showed, but it is reassuring for me to know exactly what that temperature is, especially when I occasionally change to a different material like T-Glase or PolyFlex. With ABS, and various other materials, carbonation turns the material into a hard crust that lines the inside surface of the hot-end and, when eventually minute particles break away, this is what can clog the nozzle. In my experience, an early warning sign is the slipping of the feed motor as the carbon builds up, increasing the pressure required to force the filament through the hot-end - due to increased friction against the walls I would guess. With my favourite ABS (ABS-X from 3DFilaprint) I set the temperature to 235deg (actual 255deg) and a bed temperature of 80deg. I get excellent layer adhesion, and no evidence of warping (an attribute of ABS-X). I rarely turn on the fan, except when printing very small objects.
  11. I have a UM2 with Olsson block, and print mostly with ABS, but what I am about to say could apply to any machine and material. I bought my UM2 in 2014, and began with PLA, but soon switched to ABS for its superior strength (not to be confused with stiffness), working temperature, and resistance to water. This is because most of my models have mechanical rather than ornamental use, and can easily be strengthened by using an acetone-dipping technique. After a couple of months I began suffering regular hot-end blockages resulting in under-extrusion and slipping of the feeder motor. I was running my machine almost 24/7, and found I had to perform an atomic-pull on a weekly basis. Eventually, the original nozzle/block would not clean out properly and I had to remove it for more rigorous attention. I did this a couple of times, and also replaced the teflon insulator. Fed up with doing this, I bought a replacement hot-end block and temperature sensor because I was unable to remove it from the block, and eventually broke it trying to get it out. After a couple of months this new part started misbehaving like the original necessitating frequent atomic cleaning. I was now into my second year of use, and the Olsson block appeared. This seemed a sensible upgrade as it had interchangeable nozzles so I purchased one, together with a new Bowden tube, i2K insulator and yet another temperature sensor. At first, all seemed OK, but ultimately I began to get recurring nozzle blockages. It seemed then, that the problem was independent of the hot-end design, and I wondered if the temperature calibration of the nozzle was incorrect. I have a contactless (infra-red) thermometer that I have previously used to measure bed temperature, and an accurate thermocouple pyrometer (photo attached). Attempting to measure the nozzle temperature on its outer surface was inconclusive - the infra-red device seemed incapable of detecting such a small object, and the thermocouple bead did not contact the nozzle well enough to get a consistent reading. So, I realised that I need to place the probe inside the nozzle itself to get an accurate reading. First, I needed confidence that the thermocouple device was reasonably accurate, so I placed the probe inside my kitchen fan oven together with an oven thermometer and set the oven temperature to about 220degC. When the pyrometer reading settled to a constant value, I opened the oven door and quickly noted the oven thermometer reading, and took a reading with the infra-red device. To my amazement, they were all within 2 degrees of each other at 225degC. So I was confident that the thermocouple device should give a reasonably accurate result. I now returned to the UM2, and removed the filament and Bowden tube from the hot end, and inserted the thermocouple probe right to the bottom of the nozzle. I then did a series of tests, setting the temperature in 10deg steps from 200 to 250deg. In every case, the temperature was 20degC higher than I had set it to. So, when I had set the temperature to 260degC, the actual temperature was more like 280degC. No wonder I was getting blockages - caused by carbonation of the filament which is notoriously difficult to remove. I have now been running my UM2 with nozzle temperatures set 20deg lower than required and, over the last (nearly) 2 years I have not had one instance of nozzle blockages. The only times I have used an atomic pull is when changing to different type or colour of filament to ensure the hot-end has been purged. Incidentally, I only use nylon for the atomic pull - by far and away the best material for doing this. Thermocouple Pyrometers like this can be bought on Amazon quite cheaply if you would like to check your own printer.
  12. I have always had this problem since I bought my UM2 4 years ago. I overcame the problem by always increasing the hole diameters by 0.4mm when designing a part.
  13. I recently had to repair a coin-sorter, where the motor drive gear had split in two. It was very small (only 4mm dia), so I was surprised to find that my UM2 made a perfect replacement. I used a 0.25mm nozzle with Innofil3D Fusion ABS (remarkable stuff) printed at 10mm/sec with 80% fan. The repair was a total success What tiny items have you made? Here is the gear sitting on a 5p coin
  14. Here's an example of Verbatim's Primalloy flexible filament (right) compared with the best result I have obtained with any other filament previously (I think the one on the left was PolyFlex). These objects are approx 12mm dia. They were both printed on a UM2 with original black feeder, using 0.4mm nozzle on Olsson Block.
  15. Printing with flexibles on Bowden fed printers can be a nightmare. I've had real problems in the past, but I obtained a sample of a new material at the TCT show last September that is very, very good. It is marketed by Verbatim and is called 55507 Primalloy 2.85mm. The guys on the stand said it works well on UM printers, and the results that I get agree.
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