Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


vitalsparks last won the day on March 15 2018

vitalsparks had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

Personal Information

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I do not have a printer with that configuration (mine is UM2) so cannot comment with authority, but if you can remove heads, then perhaps you should try that first.
  2. Try heating with a hair dryer, then when soft remove with pliers/tweezers
  3. If you need to print in ABS, then I highly recommend ABS-X available from 3DFilaprint which boasts 'zero-warp' technology. I now use this exclusively for working mechanical parts as layer adhesion is also exceptional giving great strength. It does not cost any more than that from competing ABS filament manufacturers, and is available in a variety of colours. It also responds well to acetone smoothing.
  4. For ABS I use ABS-X from 3DFilaprint (this is link to black, but other colours available). It has excellent mechanical properties, and boasts 'Zero Warp' technology, which I find to be true. I have successfully printed many functional prototypes using this material.
  5. No problem - I was about to make a new post in this forum anyway, to highlight this amazing material, but I couldn't think of an easy way to demonstrate visually how good it was at solving the warping problem. Your posting gave me the inspiration to build a model that reproduced your problem, and demonstrate how good ABS-X was at overcoming it. What may be of some interest too, is the best glue-stick I have ever found for use on the buildplate. It has the attribute that it is blue when applied, and turns clear when ready for printing on a hot buildplate. The
  6. I used to have problems like this with thin tall sections using ABS in my early days of printing with it. It is obviously to do with warping which ABS is (in)famously known for. Eventually I found a brand which is advertised as using 'zero warp' technology, which also boasts excellent layer adhesion, and reliable bed adhesion coupled with greater strength over previous ABS filament. Sounds too good to be true? Well, I've been using it now exclusively for over a year and I can honestly say - yes, it's all true. And the price is very reasonable - £23 incl vat and postage for 1kg reel. It is call
  7. Try loading your stl file into a viewing program, to see if the problem is with the file I recommend this free program. It is also great for inspecting your model for errors, cross-sectioning, and measuring dimensions. https://www.3d-tool.com/en_free-viewer-download.htm
  8. I totally endorse this too. This brand of ABS is the best reasonably-priced one I have ever used - It has near-zero warp.
  9. Do not be 'sniffy' about, or underestimate the power of Tinkercad, especially for technical models. I have used it exclusively for over 4 years to design over 200 objects of varying complexity without needing to find an alternative. It is often dismissed as being too basic to be of any serious use, but this must surely be the opinion of those that have never really tried to use it. It is bristling with features that soon become apparent when using it. The learning curve is short and very easy and ideal for newcomers and seasoned users alike. Above all, it is highly intuitive.
  10. That's what my measurements showed, but it is reassuring for me to know exactly what that temperature is, especially when I occasionally change to a different material like T-Glase or PolyFlex. With ABS, and various other materials, carbonation turns the material into a hard crust that lines the inside surface of the hot-end and, when eventually minute particles break away, this is what can clog the nozzle. In my experience, an early warning sign is the slipping of the feed motor as the carbon builds up, increasing the pressure required to force the filament through the hot-end - due to increa
  11. I have a UM2 with Olsson block, and print mostly with ABS, but what I am about to say could apply to any machine and material. I bought my UM2 in 2014, and began with PLA, but soon switched to ABS for its superior strength (not to be confused with stiffness), working temperature, and resistance to water. This is because most of my models have mechanical rather than ornamental use, and can easily be strengthened by using an acetone-dipping technique. After a couple of months I began suffering regular hot-end blockages resulting in under-extrusion and slipping of the feed
  12. I have always had this problem since I bought my UM2 4 years ago. I overcame the problem by always increasing the hole diameters by 0.4mm when designing a part.
  13. I recently had to repair a coin-sorter, where the motor drive gear had split in two. It was very small (only 4mm dia), so I was surprised to find that my UM2 made a perfect replacement. I used a 0.25mm nozzle with Innofil3D Fusion ABS (remarkable stuff) printed at 10mm/sec with 80% fan. The repair was a total success What tiny items have you made? Here is the gear sitting on a 5p coin
  14. Here's an example of Verbatim's Primalloy flexible filament (right) compared with the best result I have obtained with any other filament previously (I think the one on the left was PolyFlex). These objects are approx 12mm dia. They were both printed on a UM2 with original black feeder, using 0.4mm nozzle on Olsson Block.
  15. Printing with flexibles on Bowden fed printers can be a nightmare. I've had real problems in the past, but I obtained a sample of a new material at the TCT show last September that is very, very good. It is marketed by Verbatim and is called 55507 Primalloy 2.85mm. The guys on the stand said it works well on UM printers, and the results that I get agree.
  • Create New...