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JO3

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  1. Hi All, I'm just having a bit of an issue at the moment with my UM3. I did a factory reset and went through the setup including manual levelling, however, when I went to do active levelling it came up with this error message: 'difference between detected height of both printcores exceeds realistic value' When active levelling it seems to be measuring to the wrong nozzle, i.e it will measure to the nozzle that's up. It will then switch nozzles and measure to the opposite one. I'm not sure if anyone else has had this issue? Thanks
  2. Hi All, I'm looking into the UM3 and about the PVA support structure. I was wondering whether there were other materials that could be used as support, and whether any others provided benefits? Thanks!
  3. JO3

    Blue tape lifting

    Thanks @peggyb i've tried folding the tape over the edge and it's working a lot better. I also flipped the build plate over as it had quite a lot of scratches on it and cleaned it so the tape seems to be getting a better grip. I haven't tried on such a large print again though. Thanks for your help!
  4. Hi All! I've started running some larger prints on my UMO (as close to the maximum as I can) and i'm getting some very bad warping going on. It lifts the painters tape off the build platform entirely (I've attached an image) and so I feel it's not so much it not adhering to the tape but the tape adhering to the build plate itself. Is this a common issue and how have people overcome it? I'm printing a brim/raft at a higher temperature (230) and then dropping it down to 215 when it starts the part. I'm using the standard 3m painters tape that came with the ultimaker. Any help would be much appreciated! Thank you.
  5. Hi Zoev89, Thanks for your reply, how would I install the E3D heater cartridge? I thought I couldn't wire it the same as the original because it's 24v and the power supply is 19v. Also, I was going by the information here ( https://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_1 ) that says that the UM heater is compatible with the heater block
  6. I've just set up an e3D v6 print head on my ultimaker original, using the same thermistor, heater cartridge as came with my UMO. I've wired up an always on fan to cool the heat sink, and two side fans that come on as usual when printing. I'm starting to run a couple of test prints and have run into a couple of issues. The temperature reaches 200 very quickly (about 1-2 minutes) however then takes about 10 minutes to reach 230 degrees. I'm trying to preheat to 250 but it then won't go any further past 230. I'm not entirely sure what might be causing this but thought that it might be the always on cooling down the print head too much. I also read a post from someone having similar issues (https://forum.e3d-online.com/index.php?threads/hot-end-hovering-below-target-and-never-reaching.281/) however, it refers to a page on PID autotuning. I'm not entirely sure how to run this, and how to modify PID settings through Cura or any othet software. Any help/ advice would be much appreciated. Thank you!
  7. Thank you for your reply, I ordered a few zener diodes a while ago as another option, they are 1W 6.2V, do you think these will do the trick?
  8. Thank you so much for your reply! Really helped out a lot. I'm using the original thermocouple as I don't fancy changing the firmware. Also thanks for the advice in using PLA, once I've got it set up I'll try printing with ABS and see how it goes.
  9. Hi All! I'm in the process of wiring up an E3D v6 3mm bowden print head to my UMO, I'm using a printed head found on thingiverse here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:397518 I'm connecting 3 12v fans, one which needs to be always on, and two that run as normal side fans. I've done a sketch of how I think it should go. Electronics are definitely not my forte and I would rather not damage the circuit board, so please let me know if this looks wrong! I'm connecting the thermistor and wiring that up and i want to know whether it's better to use a thermistor cartridge like: http://e3d-online.com/Thermistor-Cartridge?search=thermistor or a glass bead thermistor like: http://e3d-online.com/100k-Ohm-NTC-Thermistor-Semitec?search=thermistor I'm not sure which would be easier to wire. Any help would be very much appreciated!
  10. Hi, I was wondering whether there was any way to extend one of the axis of the ultimaker original to make bigger prints? And whether anyone has done this before and posted plans. Thanks.
  11. Hi, I've been having a few issues with my ultimaker original that i'm re-setting up at work. Whenever I print the temperature always drops and no longer extrudes the material properly. I pause the print and try re-heating it but the heating then fails and the screen starts flickering. I've managed to get through one complete print however the fan cut out halfway through. Am I missing something obvious? Thanks.
  12. Hi, I'm having an issue that the filament was melting before it got to the heater block and causing blockage. Is there a part or a modification on the isolator that has a heat sink that stops the heat travelling backwards up the printer head? Thanks!
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