kmanstudios

I suggest a drybox as it will keep it dry while in usage. Polybox or download and make from Thingiverse. I go through so much of that crap that I never have to store it. The polybox keeps it nice until I run out. PVA will be the financial ruin of me... 😛

I had no issues with printing with Ninja's Flexible products. Here is a test I did last year when I first got my UM3E and was putting every imaginable material through it. The S5 should give similar results. I have not had the chance to test that yet with the Ninja Products yet though, so do not quote me on that specific case. This was done when anything that took too long was not feasible. Now, I print things that take many days, but not then....I wanted it in my hands as fast as possible. This is a small spider I got from Thingiverse to use as a test subject. I shot it with Krylon gold paint to test it and to be able to photograph it. It was printed with a PVA base and what looks like little strings are actually supposed to be the teeny prongs jutting off the legs. But, still not too shabby for a 0.2 mm layer height. First pic is with a US Quarter for size comparison.

Just for the heck of it. Try to just move the object to print over a bit and see if it affects the slice as you see it. Basically wondering if there is some sort of artifact in your model.....

What? It ain\t magical AI stuff under the hood? You guys are wayyyyyy behind with the mind reading stuff!! 🤣

It is the model. I took it into 3DSMAX and it found open edges. Here is the STL check modifier that finds the errors and allows you to directly affect them. You can see that the Edges are the source of the errors due to being open edges and not watertight. And here, I put on a modifier that allows access to the parts that that need to be fixed. I had to greatly color grade the image to make the red stand out, that is why the whole image looks different. I am not sure what package you used, but making things watertight and checking them like @smartavionicsdid is important. All Cura was trying to do is cap an open set of edges that happened to make a cylinder over everything in between and flip out its view of frontface and backface o0rientation of normals and therefore, the loss details. Fixed File: FixedProp.STL Sliced all oakely dokely..... Now, just for my edification, is this deign not called a 'screw' instead of a propeller, asks the old Navy man......

If it is for fun, it is fun, not work.....well, ok....I am a sick puppy in that regard. Seriously, an example for me would be to take say, a boat hull, bring it in at size for printing to 3DS Max and slap a 'push or shell modifier' on it as a whole, or just by selecting a few things and telling it to just go ahead and push the vertices in local directions outward by say, 0.4mm (to really be safe) or 0.2mm just to try and not make it nutso. Eazy Peezy, lemon squeezy.......

If within warranty, it should just be replaced. The idea is that you should never have to take one apart. I recommend taking apart damaged things to learn more. I figure it is dead, so what is the harm? But not much more.

You are quite welcome :) Also, wow....that silicone is nutso to have melted like that. You should get replacement parts, provided still within warranty, from your reseller. As far as I know, silicone should not melt with the temps rated for the nozzles themselves. That means less than 275C. I believe.

No, that is correct. I was just checking.....The Print BB Print core is really only for PVA... OK, this is a very important piece of info here about the printhead being slightly damaged. It may be that the tip of the nozzle is damaged and causing clogs. Also, here is a link for something to print (hopefully) to hold the fan bracket closed. And, there may be some nylon left in the core. If co, you really need to get temps slightly above the nylon at minimum and do your hot and cold pulls with nylon or even PC if you have it. I have gone as high as 270 cleaning out nylon. If you try to print with a lower temp material such as PLA in a core with even a tiny bit of high temp material contamination, it will clog very, very strongly and quickly.

That is the difference in some packages. Sometimes you can just put a modifier on the think objects that will beef it up. Also, have you read the Architecture series? But is it really doing twice the work? One is a concept model....the other is a final project....or am I missing part of the process here. ohhhhh...duhhhhhhhhhhhhh

Maybe this will help

That would depend on the package you are using. Also, after a bit of experience, you can start to build things in print scale rather than real scale when it comes to supersized objects like a car or house. I mean, even the 1/8 scale car models I have that are injection molded are way out of whack on actual scale, never mind a 1/350 scale starship like the Enterprise. Naw, not bitching.....just letting him know that the person did not ignore him.

He did answer both.....

I am wondering about what @gr5 said as well as if the model may be made too close to actual scale and got too thin also. From the look, it also looks to be very low res...

I suggest this as the way to go as it will give you the most direct results you like.