kmanstudios

This is the original Enterprise. Well, one of the three used in production. Based off Alan Sinclair's Blueprints, which are regarded as the most accurate available. http://www.cygnus-x1.net/links/lcars/sinclair-enterprise.php This has two sets of Enterprises: One is a lower Rez version and the other high reZ version. I have a great fondness for this ship since as a child, it was the one that broke the mode of flying saucers and tube rockets. A truly revolutionary design that has spawned many great versions through the decades.  The stand is included here to be combined as one color or made as a two color print. Sized for this model. The stand can hold a printed version of the ship at 110% as well.
Development can be watched here:
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/42478-learning-from-the-noobverse-for-all-the-noobs-having-fun-with-the-um3?page=1&sort=#reply-178479

This is a 1 Meter long TOS Enterprise. It is cut up into parts that can be printed without supports. Included is a large sized Instruction sheet that lays out how many of each tab to print.
The individual parts are full mesh resolution and oriented to print. It is a collection of huge file sizes. But carries decent detail.
The Optimized files are grouped by sections and are not oriented to print. They also lose some fidelity during the optimization process.But, not everybody can process or has fast internet, so, this was to offer choice.
A more in-depth look at printing and development can be found here:
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/45889-the-clumsy-noob-goes-supersized-in-the-noobverse
This is a still ongoing thread as I get more materials up, including print images and some things I did to facilitate printing. I printed most of the model in Polycarbonate for strength, well, until I ran out of it. Then I switched to CPE+. So, keep a look out if you want to see tips and tricks as well as post processing updates.
I am going to be printing a new piece to go inside the Nacelle Scoops to get that cool lighting look without having to light the model. It just ain't designed for lighting unless you want to bore out a lot of space to run wiring. I may set something like that up in the future. WAY in the future LOL But, as soon as I get scoop effects pieces printed and tested, I will add it to the mix. Well, I hope it works. Pre-render tests seem to look good. But visualization and reality do not always match up.
This thing took a little more than a week to print.
As a helpful hint, print the tabs last so that you can adjust for individual materials, shrinkage expansion.
Link to full sized Instructions 4096 Wide-Suitable for Printing If you like such things....
http://www.kmanstudios.com/StarTrekSupersizedInstructionsFullSize.jpg
How I Designed This
Designed to be printed without supports
This will of course depend on your printer and material you use. It is designed to allow for enlargement and reduction should you want to play with scale. Each part is watertight and no red errors in slicers.
I went with a tab and slot system as I found it to allow for the most flexibility if one chooses to enlarge or reduce the model to print on various systems and materials.
Markings are in raised guides to facilitate painting should you desire to do so. I did try to make them easy to see and use, yet not obtrusive.
The deflector dish was designed to be added post production so that if you want to paint the model, it will make it easier to paint that copper color inside the deflector rings. The images seen so far are just the Engineering section epoxied together, the Saucer section Epoxied together, the Nacelle Scoops (printed in different, transparent color) and Deflector Dish epoxied (Not visible in the photos) are in a loose fitting for the pics, and to facilitate the post printing process. It is just easier to putty, prime, sand and prepare the parts and then epoxy together for a final paint job.
The stand will come a bit later as I am still printing out some things. I just wanted to get this much up because, well, it just takes forever to print, if you are REALLY ambitious.
I am in the process of puttying and sanding then painting the model. Not in a hurry as I like to take a Zen approach to such things. I find it relaxing, no need to rush it
14 Inch model will be up as soon as I get it organized.

Pretty much used Cura 2.5 default settings. Matterhackers Red Transparent Red PLA. Did use PVA support and printed vertically to give better print results (no circular steps on subtle curves). Painted with a combo of Metallic Paint (Main Frame and internal Frame accent) as well as Fingernail polish with Gold Testors Model paint for accents and a really, really fine brush. Why? Because it can be sparkly and give subtle color transitions as your viewing angle changes. I like sparklies and twinklies.
Printed at default 0.2 MM on UM3_X
Two walls
Used "Hollow Out Object" in the experimental tab which will hollow out the object as well as create a support structure for the internal overhangs.
Cribbed from Bugs Bunny image Bugs Alone) found in search engine (Style Guide art). Used a Looney Toons Font (Free). Designed the Frame and such around cribbed style guide art. Painted base parts but left main red area alone to allow light to transmit through.
Made for a very nice young lady who just earned her Doctorate.

Basically two adapters for the UM3 series to hold mini-spools such as on the Taulman 1lb. Spools. The small version has no threading part and the full version has the threading part. I had to make this because that stuff is sproingy as hell and rewinding it onto a full sized spool was not easy to do or keep straight. Also allows for the netting to remain in place as recommended by Taulman.
Designed for flexibility.
There are two versions so that people can choose which they want to use and print. All pivot points aligned to create an interior double wall that is stronger than a 90° angle for the holder to the spool rod. This is illustrated in one of the pics. Can also choose individual infills as desired.
I prefer the full holder as it aligns the filament to feed much better. Included the adapter and just the spool for flexibility for the users.
This print still needs a bit more polishing to make it look good, but, hey, wanted to get it up. I need to clean it a bit. Printed in Polycarbonate for strength. Makes clean up a bit difficult (3 x-acto blades so far) but who wants a spool to fail during a print?

I started with a cheap LED nightlight from the local 99¢ store and took off the original plastic decorative cover. Then made test prints to get the fit right and work out the bugs. This was printed in ColorFabb Dutch Orange Transparent. It is what I had. Waiting on some Faberdashery LemonDrop Yellow Transparent for the final.
Making these for the grandkids and then branching out for the big kids They like this sort of thing too, just different subject matters.
Originally from the "Pikachu Cheeky" 3D model in the Lil_Pikachu.zip file I downloaded. Greatly modified. But there are a gazillion versions of the same pose everywhere.

These are prints, but not completed projects. I just got a space cleaned off to start to make the electronics for the lamps. Gotten busy lately, but have been trying to catch up. Most of these are experiments with the new 0.8 Nozzles from Ultimaker and a variety of PLA of varying transparency/translucence.
Printing really varied from 1 to 6 hours depending on geometry and supports used.

Made entirely of fractals in the Julia Set in one aspect or another. Really kicked me in the heiny as it took a month to print with failures and other issues such as being a 4.5 day long print. Usually would fail at 4 days then the PVA would get too humid and not support the top and got nothing but bunches of spaghetti.
The next to last version did ok, but had a design flaw and could not support the weight of the top flyer. Did redesign and now sturdy.
Varied the density by splitting the model and overlapping areas so that the bottom had more walls and infill and the top part of the flyer had less walls and lower infill to lessen weight. Used 'Per Model Settings" to accomplish it.
Used ColorFabb Leaf Green PLA in standard settings. I did slow the print a bit to reduce stringing. Images are basically untouched as I just trimmed the brim off and pulled a few squirelleys off the leading edges in case of build-up. Did have to trim a few built up parts off as it would curl up and I could hear it whack the printhead nozzle on the print. But it finally printed and after a month of printing, I am finally on a different model.

About 3 inches tall.

My fan bracket cover got bent a while back. I had been using rubber bands to hold it in place, but with heating, they would not last. So, having seen several threads of fan covers not staying in place or magnets losing their oomph or whatever, I decided to make this. As you can see, it is on my UM3E and holds quite nicely. The two variations are just one is a slight bit thinner in the back and not as blocky there. The front is blocky to increase the strength of those tiny clasps.
Print it out in filament that can have a bit of flex and take a bit of heat. I will probably have to print in another material when I return to high heat materials such as PC.

Fractal based model that was copied out and flipped. Then did the merging in Cura to test limits.
This is referenced in this thread: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/39753-2color-print-booleaned-in-cura-24. It was an experiment so I thought I would upload the model so that others can replicate it. Or not.
I did this in Matterhackers PETG Pro series. But feel free to try any you want. I went with PETG to set things in Cura. But mostly because it would show if there were any Boolean errors. It did an amazing job of Boolean ops that would choke my Autodesk products.

This was a series of fractals I used to test overhangs and bridging with PETG and T-Glase.
Just a buncha tests...nothing to see here.....move along...move along.....