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Everything posted by kmanstudios

  1. Yeah, I would agree, but I think most would agree. Although my prints are not usually mechanical in nature, I do sometimes make small things. A while back I printed up a series of parts for a much larger scene. This is a picture of a bunch of 'lab equipment' pieces. They may look really so-so in the picture, but that is because it is so close on such small objects. The comparison object is a U.S. nickel. Even at 0.1 layer heights, some of the objects are only 50 layers in height.
  2. So that the priming tower and model are at the same height.
  3. Just finished upgrading the UM3E and it is running its first print.
  4. Bad scenarios when you have auto-updates working. 1. Switching out the prints, on a tight schedule, need a reslice, and it is not slicing the same way. 2. Metered connections. Unfortunately, I am on one such animal now and it is a bitch to keep within the 'data usage budget' with all the crap sites though in these days. I would not want to be on the cusp and have that silly upgrade happen just a few days prior with another Pain in the Ass program. And, yes, it has happened with me. So, no speculation there. That is just two off the top of my head based on re
  5. Just upgraded the S5 via USB and it worked. Got a bit nervous there a few times when the screen would go blank for a long time, or when the progress bar seemed to not be moving. But, it did complete, and am running the first print off the S5 with the new firmware. We will see.......🤞 BUT! It STILL came back to "Confirm removal" upon both sets of upgrades and the final booting of the last part. While not a game stopper, it is still dorky to see it keep displaying that when in fact it has been selected many, many times that the print has been removed. Hopefully it will go
  6. Seems to slice faster now. Have not run first print with 4.1 operations.
  7. I do not know how I missed this, but this is a fun set of photos 🙂
  8. Change the horizontal expansion for the extruder that is putting too much on there. Also, check the angle differences between the two extruders that are default values when using support.
  9. Believe it or not, my PVA slurry I make on the glass and a brim. I did not have an issue with the material. I was very, very surprised.
  10. First Experimental PP prints. The prints were finished more than a month ago. I have had liquid sitting in them all this time and no leaks. All I have to do is find a silicone seal for the cap and it will be water tight. Literally. Once I have the silicone gasket in place, it will be really spiffy. These are the bottle designs: So, the first on the left is the first attempt. Nothing special. The the 'K-Bottle' was the second attempt (yeah, yeah, I know it is out of order in the image) where I wanted to figure a proper way to make 'logo' and design stylings more co
  11. I would go with this. I would let the print and plate thoroughly cool before submerging in water.
  12. Heat the nozzle using the 'set temperature' setting. This will melt the material close to the head and soften the other material making it easier to get out with needle-nose pliers. You may have to also hit it with a heat gun too. This happened to me until I found out how to really get the print to stick to the buildplate. If the model cuts loose it will get dragged around creating a plug against the nozzle leaving the new material nowhere to go but up into the printhead.
  13. Soooo, why dontcha tells us how you really feel 😂 In all seriousness, it is very easy to work in imperial and send out as metric. Just takes a bit of awareness so that there is not missed step. In one of my software packages (3DS Max) I can use, say, metric, and type measurements in imperial and the conversion is done for me to the proper units. I also work a lot in metric. Depends on the needs of project I am working on. If I am doing architecture work, I work in feet and inches and then convert the scale to a printer size.. When I am just squirreling about
  14. I have read about more than one error. Then, there is the issue of bricked machines, which is a total collection of errors. And, there is the thing about trying to not have this happen again. And, though, limited in programming experience, nothing is ever that easy in practice.
  15. Intersecting objects are just not good all the way around. While the tip you provide is good, robust, modeling practices are the best thing to work with.
  16. I use 3D Coat. But even Blender does voxels, and it is free. I just do not know the fidelity or speed of Blender.
  17. Sooooo, you are asking for more grief......😂
  18. If I am correct, the flow sensor does not kick in until a layer or two has been printed. Also, if retracted too far, it will be feeding, just not at the nozzle yet.
  19. Not really on setting this completely right. I did start to use a newer USB drive as well as did a switching callibration. While it did improve greatly, it is not completely gone away. But, instead of several times a day, it has only done that once since I mnade those adjustments.
  20. Have you checked with your resellers? They are the ones that are supposed to be your main point of contact for service and warranty issues.
  21. Both models are essentially 2D shells. There is nothing to give it thickness.
  22. Layer shifts can also occur if the printhead hits a curled area of plastic hard enough.
  23. You are welcome. Keep in mind, even if getting the files elsewhere, the above are things to check. 3D rendering can overcome a multitude of sins since they can work with shells and 2D surfaces. And, games are more often than not just what amounts to 2D shells without any thickness to them. Also, many, many files are just not that good when you download them.
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