kmanstudios

I do not know Tinkercad, so I ask about importing, or creating a vector line and just extrude without all the booleans?

Maybe @fbrc8-erin may have some reference material she knows of.

On a technicality, I would disagree about the manual leveling not helping. In a broader sense, it is good to do a manual leveling periodically to correct for the buildplate 'settling' by way of many things. Basically, the more level the buildplate the less correction the active leveling process goes through.

It does :)

I love it when our community does thins like this. 😁It is so nice to see people look after others that have different printers. Makes me feel like this is a real community. Though I do not have the printer, I really like this participation 👍

It is also better for you to create your own profiles rather than depend on a blanket profile when it comes to materials as different manufacturers version of a material does vary as well as the machine it is printed on as well even the colour of the material.

Note that I did not say that you changed anything. What I did mean, is that the printer definition in the supplied Cura with your product may not be the same as the definition that comes with Cura available to the masses. Nothing to do with what you are doing. The product's manufacturer just may have something in their supplied version that is different from the basic Cura available to everybody. I just think it may be the thing to look at due to the ginormous 'grey area' seen in your image. The .3mf file would let people see if it is indeed the skirt issue @ahoeben mentioned. Otherwise we are just guessing. I am sure this is frustrating to you when you do need a more solid answer.

This sounds like a printer definition that is different from the the supplied copy of the program and the wide release of Cura. The greyed area referenced by @ahoeben seems to show this with the image you supplied. Edit: A supplied .3mf file would help in this as it would contain all the information of the Cura setup used.

Supplying a project file would be very helpful. Otherwise, we are throwing guesses out there.

It has been a while so I am a bit fuzzy on this (sorry), but I did start with the 0.4 or 0.8settings in the past and just tweak it a bit. I forget the settings, but it worked great on basic PLA, of which I print mostly myself. I think I did start with the 0.8 settings.......

Nice thing about the CC 0.6 is that it will last much, much longer. I print 24/7 for about 6 months and the brass nozzles get frayed and lose fidelity in the print. The CC core will be much stronger and last better with any material. And it is there fore that ONE time you need to print something abrasive. Remember, there are abrasive based PLA filaments. When I first started, I did not know glow in the dark was an abrasive material. Kinda hastened the end of that core. :(

I can agree with that.

What is wrong with the CC core being made for abrasive materials? Not only is it the size you are looking for but will also run all other materials. Abrasive resistant does not preclude the usage, just expands it...... This is not in opposition to the other stuff mentioned here, but just letting you know.

This is just a friendly reminder to people that when asking for help, it helps us to help you if you supply things such as models to be examined. It is amazing how many things are actually model related. But without the model and full information (printer, model, etc) it is just a guessing game.

Kinda would help to look at the model as I have been able to print bottoms of spiralized designed models.

Without the model to examine, it is a guessing game. Can you share the model to be checked? Edit: And I just noticed that it is a sketchup model, which is notorious for creating issues with 3D printing.

Can you share the file? Without the file, it remains to be a giant guess as to the many reasons it will not load properly. I say this because (with my machine, a lot of ram and such) I routinely load hundred + Mb sized files into cura.

☹️

That is just one reason I am suggesting that you go with a new core that has all of that done. That core is not easy to mess with.

yup 🙂 But it seems you still want to change the nozzle instead of getting a whole new core. @gr5sells hardened cores like this in the US. He knows tons of stuff about this.

As far as I know, all UM3(E) cores work perfectly on the S5 as well. The cores being a self contained unit have all the needed parts to work properly. I am not sure if there is a specific ruby core or not, but if so, it will solve the issue without worrying about breaking the core just trying to change the nozzle. I have been switching between cores on both machines since I got the S5. So, it does work in my experience.

You are welcome :)

I am and I do use it for serious work 🙂 Just last week, I had to use it to weld some parts together where there was a gap and the pen was the only way to really get it filled and sealed.

That is my limit on plastics chemistry...sorry. The other option would be a glue. I really like this product called "Serious Glue."

I am not sure what you mean by 'just stick'. I have not tried to weld Nylon before, but, it is a plastic and as far as I know, all plastics can be welded.