kmanstudios

First, I would make sure the filament is grinding or not. Then I would pull a 'clean set' of filament so that you no longer have any grind divots in the filament. Basically that means that you should pull the bowden tube out of the print head, release pressure off the feeder and pull it through until it is a clean area. Yes, you will lose the length of the bowden tube of filament, but I have found every now and then, the grindings create a weak spot that can bend and catch in the head block area. Keep in mind that I am not sure if it is the head block as I have the UM3 and only used to the print cores. But it is in that same area that it can create an issue. If you are doing cold pulls and it is snapping, I would think that you are letting it get too cool. Maybe the steel print core dissipates the heat quicker? And, possibly, you need to increase the tension in the feeder, or increase the temp of the filament or maybe the flow pressure. Try one thing at a time though so you know what changes will make a difference. Just a lot of guesses I would start with in no particular order.

Would this include glow in the dark PLA? I have not seen this mentioned before.

OK, here is what I have been able to document, and, it just may be my system. First, I loaded a project file after another project file and got this: Please note that infill density still reads zero while slicing with infill. Then when, again, just loading a project file straight, it gives this: It says it is going to update file. But settings do not change. I also cannot uncheck the hollow objects box. Note that I can change infill densities and that will accept changes. But when changing the material selection it will make the change: Hopefully this will help. I am PM'ing you with the link to the project files themselves. I have not decided how 'open' I want this to be at this time, hence the PM with link.

Ok I will try enabling Z hop. This material is TPU so I'm hoping that enabling this doesn't make it more stringy, but I guess I can adjust my retraction to compensate. ooohhhh...flexible materials are notoriously difficult to work with. I would be very interested to see your results and any information you would be willing to provide.

I would also try the "Top Surface" option in 2.7. I have not done a large flat area like that, but it seems to make a difference on the top areas of my more organic prints.

I am in the process of doing a job, but when I get the chance, I will note the oddness I found. Although, where are the logs you need me to collect?

Where do I find the project logs? I can give you a link shortly for the project file after I dig it back up and verify it again.

I opened a project file from an earlier version and it seemed to lock some controls. For instance, it would not let me uncheck hollow objects. I had opened the file to use it as a builder for a new print that I wanted to use most of the settings, but using some of the new tweaks available. Anybody else run into something like this?

This may have been something that I never noticed before. But I started a 3 day print. At some point I noticed it said 2 Days O hrs. Then after looking a while later it said 2Days 17 hrs. As far as I know, I am on the latest (3.7) firmware.

The first question is "What type of modeling?" For mechanical, I would suggest something like Design Spark Mechanical (Free). For organics, it gets a bit more crowded, but you could try Blender or B4Artists (A variant that is supposed to be more user friendly). I know a lot of people use Sketchup, but it presents a lot of issues with 3D printing. Then there are low cost programs like 3D Coat.

Speaking as a round guy meself, nuthin' wrong wid dat, other than the spam part. I think that one is actually a cover for the center part of the hubcap of some sorts.

I am not sure that blaming Ultimaker for the humidity issue is valid as all manufacturers have the same issues. Also, with Ultimaker not being proprietary, you are free to use other filaments at will. It is also hard to give a precise amount of time to be dried as it will depend on the room and the amount of moisture absorbed. One person started out at 2 or three hours and wound up doing an overnighter. Some things you have to experiment on yourself. Finally, you say you have no A/C. Ummmm, why? It seems a small investment to ensure a quality machine and supplies (from any manufacturer) would be protected. Even small room standalone A/C dehumidifiers. You cannot go by general humidity as rooms and buildings will harbor and boost humidity levels for a variety of reasons. The level needs to be read within the room.

I would try to open all the commands/UI options to see the ones that are visible in smartavionics image. They may play a role as well. Note: This is just a suggestion as I am not sure.

It is to be printed hollow with light tube paths for neon and regular fibre optics. Right now I am printing out some things to see how well my plans for tubing go. It is taking forever to get the material out of the tiny areas and you can see that through the clear PLA. So, that is what is taking so long. A lot of tests to get the light paths correct and also find out about getting all that PVA out of some tough areas. Edit: Added Pics. This is the solid view. I added the Mohawk since I first posted. X-Ray view to show thin skin from hollowed object. And, no red areas Sliced view at about mid level of the ceegar. I went with the line type color so you could see the walls and hollows better. But, wow, it is a confusing set of images.

I am assuming that as long as it is a dual head printer, it can be set up thusly.

Go to this link. I tells of using two different core sizes for the purpose you speak of.

Thanks for making the pic visible. Though I had nothing to offer to help, it is good to have the visual when you, or others, off help. Thanks

I have had all of that happen due to humidity. The material smokes because it is boiling out the moisture. Also, when it gets too moist, it binds in the bowden tube a bit and the material is too soft for the gears to push it through. That is when you get the bent up shapes from the material acting a bit like a wet noodle. For instance, we have had a mild summer with many nights and even days I could have opened the doors, but it was too humid to do so. Thusly, I have had to run the A/C all the time to dehumidify the room air until the outside air cools and dries out more.

Maybe you will hear a disembodied voice saying something like, "ultiMAKER? OHHHhhhhhh, we thought it was ultiMATUM.....makes a difference...slate clean...as you were, smoke 'em if you got 'em, roll 'em if you don't. Ptui, Ptui, curse is gone...that will be three slaughtered goats for services rendered......"

Jeepers, you are getting no joy are you? Are you printing above an ancient plastics burial ground or something?

No pic visible here.

Does it pop and sizzle? If it is, it may be too moist. I have found humidity to be the worst culprit on PVA. Also is the tension ok on the feeder?

My thanks to you both. That is a nice model. Kudos to the modeler(s) and the cleanliness of which it bears. Nice to see such work. I do not have any fisher price toys, but I do enjoy and appreciate such nice modeling.

Each version has an evolving set of philosophies that do not keep things the 'same old, same old.'

What filament are you using? If you are using something like PLA, why not just use either bare glass or something with just a bit of adhesion such as PVA or hairspray, et. al?