kmanstudios

This is the option I am now using as it makes organization sooooo much easier. I also create a dummy file (One with just a simple box) for each major setup so that it loads easier and then clear buildplate and load new model. Seems to be much easier than digging through a gazillion menu items on the screen. Also, I have run into issues where if I load one of my older profiles it does not allow for switching the layer presets (Fine, Normal, etc). 2.6 did this and is one of the reasons I went to your suggested method. Removes all those issues.

I know PC does and is recommended.

Just to be thorough, have you tried to do a set of hot pulls and atomic pulls? I am thinking something may have gotten stuck or burned inside. When I first got my UM3E, it did not want to extrude until I did a cleaning. And, the BB core requires a bit more love and care than the AA core because of the nature of the PVA.

Acrylics do stick quite well, but I second the automotive paints for sheer toughness. I use a mix, but almost always prime with an automotive enamel or lacquer. Even on store-bought models (polystyrene plastic kits). Enamel will always go on Lacquer as it is not as chemically hot. You can lacquer over enamel if you work with very thin coats to build up a shell that will not penetrate to melt the enamel. But you must be very careful with that.

That would be nice. I just wanna look at it. I have no fisher price toys, but I always like to look at files to see if I can figure how it was done.

Using Win 8.1 Pro, i7-6700K (4 Ghz), NVidia Geforce GTX1080, 256GB SSD card and USB external drive with 32 GB Ram. Cura has always opened on par with S3D, AI, Photoshop, AE, Premiere. 3DS MAX has always taken the longest to load on a fresh boot. After fresh start, reopening is faster, but still the slowest. To be fair, I have not timed first click to open on any of them, but not noticeably awkward.

BTW Sander I just bought an inexpensive Windows 10 based 2 in 1 tablet PC and tried to install 2.7 BETA and it said that it can't be installed to contact the developer. Is it really not possible to use Cura ona new Windows 10 based Tablet?? Thank you Dr D Which version of Windows 10? I think the tablets run on a stripped down version of Win10 and not fully functional for heavy programs.

Thanks for setting that aright. I was actually quoting someone else, so I do like to be properly corrected. Now, are all the motors steppers or just the feeder motors? Or, is this a discussion for elsewhere?

If I am correct, what you are hearing is the retraction motors. Ever notice how most of the motor noises have a sort of synthesizer sound to them? I think you are just hearing the servos working.

I have lacquer thinner, enamel thinner and acetone and will be doing experiments myself and posting pics as soon as I can get a space that will not endanger my health and such. Not too far off. I may try brushing them on failed prints just to see what happens and different filament types just to round out the 'science aspect' of things.

That will be interesting......

I had that happen a few times. Once I got it cleared I started this practice: If I inserted a removable, Cura sees it and defaults to "Save to Removable Drive". Even when removing the drive, Cura still offers that option. So, it sees the drive going in, but not being ejected, even using the 'eject removable' to dismount the drive properly. I just make sure from now on that I never leave it in that state and make sure to not close Cura with that option open. it is part of my practice now and have not had to encounter that issue since.

nobody seems to have the file....

I am hoping that they will merge this with the main 2.7 comment thread. I actually got it installed and started the thread before they had the official thread up. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/50967-announcing-cura-27

Will let you know . I do not go out a lot, but this is something I do not want to miss.

Well, I gotta tell you, I just revised the Nautilus King (Put on a mohawk) which means that it has an increase in geometry (still optimized it) but I loaded it anew and it just flew into the buildplate area, so, definitely an increase of load speed and slight speed of time slicing. Mo' time savings = mo' fun Edit: Layer display seems a bit crisper. May be the change from white to dark, but I can discern the details a bit better.

I had not downloaded and tried the beta for a variety of reasons. I woke up with a headache this morning (3AM) and saw the notice that 2.7 was released. So, I installed it and wanted to put out a couple of first impressions: 1. I do like the Cura Dark. I am a bit light sensitive and this makes it easier on my eyes. Thanks! 2. Loaded a project and for some reason, it seemed to be loading much faster than the previous version (2.6.2) and that is a plus. 3. Seemed to slice a bit faster too. 4. Seemed to shave a lot of time off the project's expected print time. Previously 169 hours; now 1.57 hours. Will see if it does really shave the time off, but a 12 hour difference is welcome if it can be extrapolated backwards a bit, realizing that it would not be linear in time savings due to a lot of variables in prints and requirements. But, time saved is always appreciated. Have not had time beyond this go deeper, but as usual, unhid all controls to play around with. So far, so good.

Who knows when this will be done. My design speeds far outpace my print speeds. And, that is assuming the designs are worth a crap. But, he's one cool mollusk. Throne of the Nautilus King. Well, this little beastie will be a chore to print. 169 hours just for the main part: The Nautilus King main body on top of the blackish base with the sunglasses. Mostly made of fractals that I assembled. I just like weird stuff..... None of my current prints takes less than 3 days and most about 4.5 on average. The CeegarSmoke (That is what I named it) will only take 1.5 Hours. I took the Nautilus syphon and turned it into a cigar. The CeegarSmoke is a separate piece to be affixed. The Sunglass Lenses will take 1.5 Hours. Again, separate pieces to be affixed. I am not sure about the base as I have the base design finished, but none of the electronic 'holder/mounting' parts sized or designed for the internals. I know I have enough room. Height will be about 200mm, made to be lit from inside with varying degrees of transparency and colors using a variety of paints and snaking Fibre Optics as well as Neon Glow Fibre Optics. So, I gotta figure how many and what size everything will be to print the base.

Well, I managed to get the dolphins printed with the PC material and PVA as a support. The PVA came off really easy since I could heat the water a lot more than normal. Just peeled right off. The buildplate shows that I am not using ooze shields or priming towers in a lot of cases. I get a bit of junk to cut off with the x-acto, but usually not too bad. Those prints are really strong.

I use a graduated tetrahedral at 15 - 20 on average for display models, not functional. It really makes a time difference in time. But, make sure you have enough top layers to prevent pillowing. This will depend on your layer height and percentage of infill.

I suggest starting with the 0.06 profile and working from there. There is not a lot of difference between the two sets of settings. I have done it before, but do not have a saved profile for you to use.

Thank you very much. Consumer experience beats company hype any day

If you open a project file, you should get a question if you want to open it as a project, or if you want to import the models. If you don't, please check the "Opening and savinf files" section in the General settings. The only problem with importing the models instead of opening as a project, it doesn't retain the object placements. I arranged my models to sit on top others (had to disable the auto drop to build plate). When I open a project as a project, it loads all models as they were (stacked up), when I import just the models from the project, it doesn't retain the object placements. It has for me on 2.6.2...has it been broken in 2.7?

I have a spool of PC material, black, that was purchased recently. It was not recognized by the printer (maybe old spool?) and had some odd behaviour. It was a simplified dolphin I made for a larger project. I wanted the PC because of the strength and ability to really grind on it when sanding and finishing/polishing. I did a test print at 0.2MM and it seemed fine. When I tried to take it down to 0.1mm it failed a lot. It seemed that the support (Raft and supports were PC) structure was not sticking to the raft. Just a lot of dragging around and spaghetti all over the place. I finally got it to work using PVA (Believe it or not) as the support with a PVA brim. I just made sure that there was a super tiny part of the model that touched the buildplate to help it stay anchored. But the rest of the print is doing ok at this time. In about 2.5 hours I will be putting the other print (second dolphin) on to see if the same PVA thing worked or not. But I did have several consistent failures over the course of 16 hours with the PC Raft and support with the support seeming to not stick to the raft. I did try to slow it down a lot (down to 30mm/s) and increased the temp, lowered the temp, flow increase just made more spaghetti, and a few other things such as rotating the model to affect the amount or size of the supports and playing with support settings. Left my front cover on, took it off, all gave the same result. It did work with the 0.2 mm settings. Not the 0.1mm settings. Same model, same position to start off with. I am scratching my head over this. Any ideas? Edit: Print finished ok and soaking the print off the buildplate. Just now starting second dolphin with same settings. Fingers crossed.....

Glad the UM3 didn't get damaged. Battery back ups are great for saving prints when there's a short power interruption. A power outage of even a second will turn off the printer long enough to disrupt the print (without any way to restart it). It generally powers back on to the main screen. Because when it loses power it goes back to the main screen, your print bed doesn't stay hot, so the print could come loose from the bed before you find it. It's definitey strange that the printer remained off after the outage; that I haven't seen before; normally it just goes back to the main screen. If you go up a couple of posts, he found that the mains field disconnector created the issue and once reset, it worked again.