kmanstudios

ya know...Google can be your friend... http://www.hovership.com/2014/10/27/mhq2-3d-printed-mini-quad-frame-now-available/ https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:511668

In the unlit versions, they are varying degrees of thickness. When light passes through them, you get a set of subtle red shades with the pattern in the scoop. The lit version is the same set of designs, but with the lights enhancing the effect of 'spinning'. the lighting is a round LED chaser light setup I found on Ebay for cheaper than I could make them. I just have to deconstruct them a bit for the next phase of my Noob experiments: 1. Redesigning the Enterprise for proper lighting and stand with switches. Not hard, just a bit busy right now and I still need to get the varying files up for this and the 14 Inch version. 2. Designing light stands to access the on/off and programming functions which will require the deconstruction/extension of soldered parts and switch designs to access the power and LED preset programs of different patters. I am making a set of lit lamp stands for my grandchildren. 1. Pikachu for my youngest granddaughter 2. Harley Quinn for my Middle granddaughter 3. Spider light for my oldest, the Grandson I like the flashies, sparklies and twinklies......

Thank you, but......I cannot take credit. Got 'em on Ebay. Gonna use a few of them for various projects. One will be a Pikachu lamp for my granddaughter. You can change programmed patterns (16 preprogrammed) and just gotta figure how to make the button accessible. But first to finally get all of this up now that I have all my proof of concepts done.

Also, do not forget to turn on "Hollow out objects" in experience as it helps with any internal overhangs and will actually override (at least in my experience) any infill settings. Be aware though that I am on a PC Cura as well as UM3+

OK, I see a lot of posts about this problem or that problem and sometimes, I ask about environmental conditions. Well, here is why!! LOL Now, the printer has been behaving like a champ and also through a lot of very uncontrolled conditions. But this last weekend, it got really hot and humid. And, while the basement apartment usually keeps cool, the nights never cooled and the humidity was too high as well. So, I started up the A/C to dehumidify and control the temp a bit better. Monday I had to leave for a job in Manhattan and do some 3D Software training. I started a 6 day print with tons of Support PVA to be used. The heat wave broke, and the humidity was supposed to be dropping. Going outside, it did feel better than normal. I started the print, took a shower and left for work. I checked the printer and it was humming along ok so I decided to turn off the A/C since I would not be home and the temp was not supposed to be too bad. I got back from Manhattan about 9 or so hours later and well, I had Red PLA all up inside my electronics and nozzles and such. And, here is why the posting.....the print started to fail within about 20 or so minutes after I left. It had not progressed much at all after I left before failing. Just blobs of red PLA everywhere up inside the printhead. The PVA was all 'noodled up' in the feeder. It had gotten so humid, so quickly that it just got so soft that it could not feed at all and literally looked like a spooled up noodle in the feeder, all squished and curled and wound a bit. Also, probably moisture in the bowden tube to help create friction. So, the PVA was really well cooked in the nozzle after just heating, cooling and reheating all day long without movement. I mean it took 3 hours to get it cleaned and pushing plastic again. Even had to break out the Airbrush needle to start the breaking up process it was so clogged! I ruined my AA Core :angry:because as I cleaned out the cores and electronics, it cooled too much and although it had give, it pulled out a couple of wires. I do not have a heat gun, so tried to work quickly to no avail. I may be able to fix it, but am busy right now, so, just ordered replacements for the AA core. I had two AA and Two BB. So, I got 2 new AA and one new BB so that I can have backups and also do two color printing should I desire. Now, I will have three of each nozzle. Now, the BB core was cleaned out and the spare AA core I did have is working great. But, with about 5 hours of A/C running, it had dried the air out a bit and things started to feed again. I left the A/C on during the days I have been out training and doing other work. The print has not failed. The only thing that changed was the A/C to cool and dehumidify. Will it always be a solution to all problems? nahhhhh But, when dealing with PVA, it is a major concern and I wanted to give the experienced people a good laugh (And I laughs wit youse guys on dis!!) and the other noobs a chance to see just how much environment can affect the printing process. The print is doing fine with the A/C and now only has 2 days and 19 hours to go. It seems to be all purtyfied now.

Testing out lights... Sucky picture of Image: Movie:NacelleTest.mp4

I can say that in certain situations that it would be easier to do in Cura or firmware so that you could accommodate filaments that 'want' to be printed round and not flattened such as T-Glase as that helps with transparency. For the time being I do a manual for that and skip the active leveling so I can create that offset, but it is not as accurate as inputting direct numbers.

Did not want to work in Firefox, but worked in Chrome.

I was going to tell you to PM me when they start putting up nekid wimmen folk!!

Just bring in the model and then it will print as a single extrusion by default. Just make sure you are not using supports or dual extrusion. And, yeah, the caps lock is hard on the eyes....

Well shuckydarns....I just used it on two minor objects I had made and it presented an elegant solution. As I said, no problem making the changes, just thought if it was done, then why skin the cat twice? Thanks!

When I have done some slicing and playing with settings, I have found that every once in a while the "Make Overhangs Printable" produces a nice aesthetic result. I have only been able to save the file as if it was the original version. Maybe I am not doing something right, but it would be nice if it can be done or incorporated into the software. Yes, I can build it on my own, but if the software can do it so darned quickly, why not let it be output? Or, am I missing something?

Neotko had a great thread about a type of glass he tried.....I will try to find it. Or, maybe he will see this and give the info here. Edit: I found it. Glass Choice

I just take my printed objects and put them on a paper towel or three and they are dry in a day or two. I guess it would depend on how fast you need a part dried. I am usually not in that much of a hurry as I am not in a production environment. Even if the print was 'air tight', it could still leak water inside if there is a strand of PVA that got dragged across the surface during printing. It would then dissolve and leave a tiny hole whilst also wicking in the water.

That is a great link! I have saved the page so that I can study it and keep the reference. Major thanks!!<3

I believe that I have been misunderstood on several replies that I have been quoted at. 1. I mentioned the patent thing because of a different thread in which people went immediately to the 'fear of the man' taking advantage of everybody. I supported that stance on protecting the company's innovations completely. 2. The fact that we now have one person who originated an idea and the UM team upset revolves around one major issue: Lack of communication. It is simple. Team UM could have contacted Neotko at the outset and all would have been a complete non-issue. 3. "Who the hell do you think we are?" was a reply. Well, I am hoping you are all completely honorable guys that just made a mistake in lack of communication. But you really cannot get riled when you state that release notes are not written, but the idea is announced without attribution. It is a touchy subject. So far all I see is a simple miscommunication. But it should also remind us all how easy it is to not understand a situation. And, if Neotko, or anybody else for that matter, has had experiences such as myself that has included personal work appropriated or outright plagiarized, then, yeah, it can be a bit personal and cause hurt feelings on both sides. I may have butted into something that I do not really have a right to, but, just like the patenting thread, I do feel strongly about corporate rights and personal rights. Especially in this day and age where ethics seem to be eroding or just trampled everywhere.

This gets to the problem that people had about Cura patenting their products. While I fully support patenting due to the need for proper protections, I cannot support taking someone else's idea without credit or communication. It does get to the heart of the matter. And, I feel the 'rant' is justified as it does seem to violate the spirit of and need for the open source paradigm.

I just saw this thread and thought you may be interested.

I am not sure that acetone and water would be a good mix. Does water cut or thin acetone? Seems you would need something alcohol based or petroleum based to mix it and not have floating globules.

I find this humourous as I am, by way of years with 3DS MAX, always right clicking to change transform ops. So, for me, it will not matter as I will, until I get myself retrained, keep doing that. I am, by the way, all for the shortcuts for that, but it is huourous all the same.

I got it to work. You can find the file here. Now, what happened was I had to even out the file in a 3D Package, i.e. put the cut area flat. Then I had to readjust the pivot point. Once I realigned the pivot point, I could yank it around to any place and it would work, so I am not sure what it was holding onto from the original pivot point, but changing it to center of model and then to the base of the model worked. Cura 2.X may be very sensitive to the pivot location as it wanted to hold on to it a bit. I have only been using cura since 2.3 so I have adapted to this as it seemed natural. I do not know if it is better or not. But, fundamentals are everything. Cut perpendicular to the Z Axis when possible. Y Axis in other packages, but Z axis in Cura. Reset your pivot points to where it sits right on the bottom. And I have developed a set of working conditions that solve 99.9% of issues you can encounter. I basically do not think the software will do all it is cracked up to do. And, I depend on that rather than the software. This is not limited to any manufacturer. Every once in a while, Cura does get cranky about the placement of objects, but it is rare by adopting basic fundamental practices. Cutting objects can be done based on angular needs (Not perpendicular , but must be rotated to be flat on the buildplate at import into cura), but the flat part should be realigned to the buildplate as I have done. The part I examined still had the pivot point way away and the mesh tilted. No matter what part I make, I do that so that each part will sit nicely. I did check the flatness of the created parts and that was not an issue, so whatever capping op you performed was not the issue. That was the first few looks I had; make sure the mesh was clean (Hence being version C). Overly triangulated, but flat. Could have been the package you used in how it builds faces. I noticed everything was a tri and no quads. Quads rule as they are more robust as well as can be triangulated when needed by a package that cannot work in quads.

I do not think it is Cura as it just may be more sensitive. Can you up the model you made and let me take a look?

You are quite welcome :)We all have to start somewhere and it is almost always the easiest thing that goes wrong. As you build you knowledge and successes, things will become easier. Although, to be honest, failure teaches me more as I never know if things go right because I got it right or got it lucky. Good Luck!!

That would sound like the cores just need to be pulled out and reset. I can say that I have had to do this once or twice when changing cores. I just did not get it seated just right. One thing I found helps is to go to the system->maintenance-> and then do a lift test. I like the 30 second lift test as it seems to get it seated well. That is up to you. I just like it because I can active level while doing other prep work. I also pre-heat my plate while I am prepping.

I have noticed that Cura tends to treat the infill more as a way to create a roof rather than making an infill for strength. The speeds are way fast and tend to print a cobweb sorta looking thing inside. The tops of the infill are generally rough to the touch, but the walls are smooth. I usually use the infill to be able to print roofs on my models and not for strength, but when I need strength, I go into the speed settings and change the infill speed downward and it makes much better supports.