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kmanstudios

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Everything posted by kmanstudios

  1. In this specific case, no, but usually yes. What do you mean by "that"... do you mean the prime tower isn't hairy like in the photo? Any hairiness at all. With PC, I have experimented with Supports, but my main prints have been done without supports and therefore no priming tower. When I do use priming towers, there is some gook around it as it is there to wipe off the crap before printing.
  2. I had not considered any over-extrusion. The layers look nice and even, no shortage or gaps, or blobs. Ooze shield is doing its job quite well. Not stringy at all. But as a follow up, I did close the doors last night and my new print does not have the effect. And, what tipped me off was this was a short model started as the day was closing and cooling. Usually, it only happened after a long time and considerable height. Rats! Was enjoying the cooler fresh air, especially after having everything closed up for a little more than a week printing with PC...it got hot in here! I do have bubble wrap taped over the opening to keep in the heat, but a lot must be getting out the top. Our weather is really all over the map too. Not even getting to 60°F here in NYC today. A lot of humidity, but only a PLA on PLA print. But, equalizing the temp did help. No bumping or knocking into parts.
  3. Could this be the reason? I noticed that the night is cooling and it is starting to make rubbing noises and even pushing the plate a bit. Again, I do not have really good climate control and our days are heating up, but our nights are cooler.
  4. Edit: Should have been in Troubleshooting section...Please move Mods..sorry, do not know why I did this. I am not sure if this is a hardware issue or software issue. But I noticed on my last model or so I printed at significant height, that the nozzle started to drag across the infill with a noise. It seems to only happen when the model is above a certain height. I have not quantified that height. And, the infill was 25% with triangles to make it sturdy. May be why I do not notice it other times as I usually use a gradual infill of some time for time's sake and the lack of need to have a super strong model. Or, I could just be imagining things. But what would make that happen? Note that the printer has been running for more than 2,000 hours since January. I see no slippage across the X or Y (No shifting) and I do not see any change in layering as the model is printed upwards. Print quality is good in all other areas not affected by the clumsy noob (moi). And, maybe environmental issues can cause this? But, it did knock a piece off on my last major print: 6 days and just over 10 Inches tall and almost a spool of material. Dangit!! I like that material!! LOL Edit: Usually using active leveling between buildplate swaps between prints. But, as I said, does not seem to happen until it reaches above a certain height. Cura 2.5 and mostly default settings (Usually only changing support density, choosing infill type, etc)
  5. All it takes is one vertex to be out of alignment or just enough tilt to throw it off. But, to be clear, does it only happen if the support is on? If you slice without support, does the model sit cleanly on the buildplate? In such cases where it does sit up off the plate, rowiac stated, you can just move it down slightly, but to do so easily, go into preferences and turn off 'drop model on buildplate' or it will fight you. But, you will get great response to that and be able to type in negative distances.
  6. Clean the heck out of it as suggested. Also consider using some sort of barrier for PLA. I actually chipped one of my glass buildplates trying to remove a really stuck on PLA piece I printed a while back. I use a PVA slurry. It self levels the pits that will occur as well as put a barrier between the part and the glass that can be dissolved away and free the part.
  7. I second this all the way around as I have had similar success.
  8. I am on a UM3EX and I would just go with PLA with PVA supports. But it depends on the material strength you need as well as having two extruders.
  9. I dunno...I switch my plates out all the time after prints and while I am doing one thing (Cleaning other plate, transferring files via USB, etc), it is leveling for another run. I will manually level for a special instance such as using the T-Glase because they suggest it to create a round thread and not a squished oval one.
  10. Also, what machine, temps, materials and surface stick are you using? But, the cleaning is really key as mentioned.
  11. I am going to try the horizontal expansion next time I print with PVA. I usually do not have problems until humidity or temperature becomes a factor. And, I do try to save on the PVA because, well, it is pricey. That is why I recycle the heck out of the stuff into slurry. Believe it or not, I have more than three gallons of the stuff. And, I believe that it is a bit thicker than most people make when doing the 1:10 ratio of glue to water. But, I am also experimenting a bit with settings to cut down on waste, while not sacrificing quality or functionality. That piece died about 4/5 of the way through due to a piece coming loose (first time I have had that happen) in a place that was glass to part and was well cradled. It just did not stick in that area. It started to spin air webs and then drag to another part of the model and deposit a blob on the model elsewhere. It was the bumping of the head on the blob that alerted me to a problem. So, I am doing two color PLA prints to try something and then back to the week long render again. Until it died though, it really printed nice. Figured a way to rescue/repurpose the model though
  12. Thank you. It was the biggest reason it took so long.....try idea, wait for print, try new idea, wait for print, etc.
  13. Version 1.0

    714 downloads

    This is a 1 Meter long TOS Enterprise. It is cut up into parts that can be printed without supports. Included is a large sized Instruction sheet that lays out how many of each tab to print. The individual parts are full mesh resolution and oriented to print. It is a collection of huge file sizes. But carries decent detail. The Optimized files are grouped by sections and are not oriented to print. They also lose some fidelity during the optimization process.But, not everybody can process or has fast internet, so, this was to offer choice. A more in-depth look at printing and development can be found here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/45889-the-clumsy-noob-goes-supersized-in-the-noobverse This is a still ongoing thread as I get more materials up, including print images and some things I did to facilitate printing. I printed most of the model in Polycarbonate for strength, well, until I ran out of it. Then I switched to CPE+. So, keep a look out if you want to see tips and tricks as well as post processing updates. I am going to be printing a new piece to go inside the Nacelle Scoops to get that cool lighting look without having to light the model. It just ain't designed for lighting unless you want to bore out a lot of space to run wiring. I may set something like that up in the future. WAY in the future LOL But, as soon as I get scoop effects pieces printed and tested, I will add it to the mix. Well, I hope it works. Pre-render tests seem to look good. But visualization and reality do not always match up. This thing took a little more than a week to print. As a helpful hint, print the tabs last so that you can adjust for individual materials, shrinkage expansion. Link to full sized Instructions 4096 Wide-Suitable for Printing If you like such things.... http://www.kmanstudios.com/StarTrekSupersizedInstructionsFullSize.jpg How I Designed This Designed to be printed without supports This will of course depend on your printer and material you use. It is designed to allow for enlargement and reduction should you want to play with scale. Each part is watertight and no red errors in slicers. I went with a tab and slot system as I found it to allow for the most flexibility if one chooses to enlarge or reduce the model to print on various systems and materials. Markings are in raised guides to facilitate painting should you desire to do so. I did try to make them easy to see and use, yet not obtrusive. The deflector dish was designed to be added post production so that if you want to paint the model, it will make it easier to paint that copper color inside the deflector rings. The images seen so far are just the Engineering section epoxied together, the Saucer section Epoxied together, the Nacelle Scoops (printed in different, transparent color) and Deflector Dish epoxied (Not visible in the photos) are in a loose fitting for the pics, and to facilitate the post printing process. It is just easier to putty, prime, sand and prepare the parts and then epoxy together for a final paint job. The stand will come a bit later as I am still printing out some things. I just wanted to get this much up because, well, it just takes forever to print, if you are REALLY ambitious. I am in the process of puttying and sanding then painting the model. Not in a hurry as I like to take a Zen approach to such things. I find it relaxing, no need to rush it 14 Inch model will be up as soon as I get it organized.
  14. What about contaminants in in the travel path from spool to hot end? Will the hot end sterilize the part?
  15. Printing files are up on: Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2364660 Youmagine: Only has optimized/low rez files for download. Thingiverse has full collection. Link to full sized Instructions 4096 Wide-Suitable for Printing If you like such things.... http://www.kmanstudios.com/StarTrekSupersizedInstructionsFullSize.jpg
  16. Just as a goofy thing, try the following: Clean the contacts on the back of the extra core with isopropyl alcohol. The purest you can find to not leave contaminants on the surface. Try to use the second core in the extruder 1 with the PVA BB Core in extruder 2. It also just may be something dirty on the back. I had it sorta glitch out on me and cleaning it did the trick. The switching is a way to just test if it is the sensor on the printhead or the actual core. It is also in case you are not familiar with a multimeter or do not have one on hand. Edit: Counting on Team Ultimaker or someone more experienced to correct this if it is not a good idea. I did it on mine, but, I may have just gotten lucky.
  17. Well, almost time to roll out the models. Below is the 1/4th sized instructions as a preview. When I printed the full size model, it ran into a problem (temporary under-extrusion) right at the deflector dish. So, that got me to thinking about providing a fix for people so they did not have to cut up the model themselves. THEN I got to thinking about printing without supports. THEN I got to thinking about the different ways it may need to be printed to get cleaner results at lower Resolution 3D Nozzles a.k.a. 0.2mm and larger. So, it is a 3 Pak! And, the second version has two different saucer configurations. Tabs are easy to sync up with the placements. Now that I have all of the parts for the Supersized and 14 Inch versions, I just have to get them together with the full sized instruction sheets and upload them. :PA most decidedly set of Retro designs. Woulda done something like this, but I do not want to waste time illustrating it, nor will I crib other's artwork, even for a gag...... Never had a girlfriend that looked lovingly at MY models that way...sheesh...coulda been a contender!! LOL
  18. I have had luck with Ninja Semi-Flex. Would that count?
  19. Not sure if that was for me, but since I have the only photo: 1. Nope, not Ultimaker PVA as stated.....Matterhackers PVA 2. Yep, humidity issues as I stated and stress the environmental issues when people have certain issues as I can trace most of mine to that alone. 3. Actually cream colored, just the way the photo took in the lights under the Ultimaker bluish lighting. 4. Will try the horizontal expansion issue. But it is odd it is not consistent as it will stick on some other areas no problem. 5. Does not always have to connect all the way to the glass as it will build on itself over the PLA in areas that begin to require the support. At least, that has been my experience. Say a shelf that then juts out a bit with an overhang that does not get to the areas that buildplate to overhang is not possible. Also depends on towers, conical supports, etc. The image is a bit misleading in it is not nearly as vertical as it seems in this image. There is a taper moving in towards the center of the model with juts out from that taper that are about horizontal with the buildplate. This is the final, large print of my spaceship design that I posted about a proof of concept model. Kinda hard to prevent the absorption of moisture during a long print. But, I do know I need to build a dry-box-feeder for that very reason. Honestly, too busy learning different materials, shortcomings and long prints. That and it is still working 98% of the time and the rest is just a bit of a bother. But will get around to it as soon as I get a few other things taken care of. As I have said, I have gotten any of my PVA brands to work with a great deal of success. And, kinda saving that last roll of Ultimaker PVA.....that stuff is pricey.
  20. I have never seen anything like that before. That is odd. I would be interested to see if it is a Cura version difference.
  21. Just in the interest of clarity: This is the current print. Matterhackers PVA-Colorfabb Orange Translucent. As I said, most of my print issues are noobish errors or environmental. I also keep the front covered with taped up bubble wrap, but that will not stop the basic humidity issues.
  22. It was an environmental issue. It does not happen often and I can tell because when I have opened the doors to air out the studio, I can detect a difference in the printed part as well (ie. not the support). And, it was not something that I would have reported because it is such a rare, environmental issue. The only thing I have not had it work with on a consistent pattern is ABS. I have had success with a lot of things in certain situations, but never on bad humidity days. Edit: OH! I have a print working right now that has had some slippage on the PVA with my first roll of Colorfabb PLA. But, it is humid here. Not sweating humid, but it is making the PVA crackle even with a low temp. It is also not Ultimaker PVA.
  23. I have printed with PVA rafts with no issues. I have had to use anchors or legs to help other materials stay in place while using the PVA as a cradle or support to lay upon to let large/long bridging work well.
  24. Lets you know how desperate most of these people are. "I am an illustrator you 3D People!! Hire me..Please!! Please let me design for you!! My stuff is Kewl dood!!"
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