kmanstudios

What are the environmental conditions? I have found that PVA is very susceptible to changes. I have seen it change within 30 minutes as changes in humidity occur, like say, opening a door to the room to air out the area when it is raining outside or just a humid day.

Instruction sheet at quarter size. Will upload full size image when model is up.

No issues here either and with Ultimaker PVA/PLA and other brands.

Sometimes, that is all that matters....until it happens again!! Bwah-ha-ha-haaaaaa

Unfortunately I agree completely with the creep factor. But Microsplooge is making it to where the OS will only operate on newer chips and architecture with virtually no backwards compatibility. And, yeah, their update system is stupid just for the reasons you cited...it can kill a job smack in the middle of processing. To get around that on the one machine I have that has Windows 10, I tell the updates to be on a metered connection until I am ready to update. It is a kluge, but it does work.

I had to start a print several times trying to get a part to support properly. The problem was that to get the support to work properly on this tiny part was to put my overhang at 35°. This caused massive amounts of support everywhere else. If I set the supports to the model needs as a whole, this is what I got: As you can see, the little funnel shape did not get support around the edges and would just knock off and print goo around the space. To fix this, I kluged up this solution: I split the model into two parts and used the individual settings to use the small area with 35° overhang and the other part at a regular overhang angle. Worked like a charm as you can see in this image: It works, but I am wondering if there is a better way. I have tried following a thread with a description about 'anti-overhangs', but am confused as to how to actually apply it here as well as would really prefer some sort of visual guide. Basically, is there a more efficient way to do this properly? Tweak at Z was a thought, but it would not give me an actual preview of the results as it is a post processing setting.

The tension may be a problem then if you are experiencing it across multiple filaments. Sometimes a spool may not be wound just right. I had binding problems on my first spool of CPE+, but not the second one. I think SandervG's idea about a recording of some kind is a great idea. I have learned the sounds of my particular printer, but others have vast experience with many types and such. I know that fbrc8-erin is one of those people as well as Team Ultimaker.

What are you using to adhere the material to the plate with? Is it lifting off completely or just corners? Brand of ABS? Different brands have different properties. Environmental conditions will play a big part as well. Plate temps, slicer and other settings would help too.

Have you checked your feeder tension? Also, what filament as some will bind a bit on itself creating more friction from the spool?

I would add that once a part gets beyond a certain size, you would run into adhesion problems as well, torque, etc. But, I am a fan of out of the ordinary thinking. Bold concepts can be modified towards better practicality.

I have not had that happen with my PC prints. Are you printing more than one object with PC at one time?

Not really. Anything can corrupt a computer file in a way that is unusable in some glitchy way, but can still be opened and appear fine. I have seen this a gazillion times throughout my career. Since you basically started from scratch (cleaned out old files etc), I would assume that it was a tiny corruption in the file and not in the program itself.

This is a ship I designed quite a while back. I was in the mode of finishing it up and decided to print it out and do a paint test. Final is being printed now at 0.1MM/100Micron at 10". Printed standing on its engine/vertically. Still has 4 days and 9 hours at this posting to go. The ship is designed at scale of 360' Port to Starboard. Each 'floor' of the ship is 10' Tall including support spaces below deck and overhead space for a walking interior space of 8' tall. I even have the 'science' worked out with the two sets of engine types and interstellar drives. Hey, it is Sci-Fi and it is my Sci-Fi, so, if I decide it flies on fairy dust, well, so be it!! Printed at 7.5" vertically to increase print resolution. It just printed cleaner that way. 0.2mm/200Micron layers with a transparent PLA. Note the patterns are not surface imperfections, but instead are support structures seen through the x-parent material. Raw Top print: Raw Bottom Print: Top Primed with a black layer first and then a white layer before sanding. Lite sanding as it was proof of concept and not final. Testing colors and paint tolerances. Closeup of the primed and lightly sanded print shows the layer rez. Painting done with standard model paints. Not the best paint job, but not a finished product either. Just testing color schemes and paints. Character Piece for the Main Character...and no, not the Captain. Captains give orders...everybody else does the cool stuff.

OK, it has been a while with all the printing and experimentation. I am assembling the parts and such for upload, so this would be more of an update. I am hoping to have everything together by this weekend and up for this and the 14" model. And, I am beginning the priming and prepping for final assembly. Currently the model is in 5 Parts. 1) Saucer b. Engineering and Nacelles iii/ Deflector dish Quatro- Bussard Collectors are printed in different color for each Nacelle These parts are all put together within their structures, but separate to facilitate the priming and prepping and pics represent a loose fitting of the three structures for size. Will be epoxied together for final painting and finishing. Total length is just at a meter or 39.5" long. Each floor tile in the overhead shot is 13" on each side. The saucer alone is 17.5" in diameter. 22 Parts in all, 12 just in the saucer alone, not including the pegs to join the parts. Will have print shots on buildplate when I roll this thing out. As well as assembly instructions. All parts watertight and no red error areas in x-ray. Took three containers of epoxy just to get to this point. Well, just over three....tried Gorilla Glue epoxy and it was not as good as the previous brand (Devon 2 Part syringe with 3500 PSI Bonding rating). Bought more Devon to finish the final fitting/gluing. All parts printed without supports. The PC material did the best, but had to switch to CPE+ when I ran out of transparent PC. PC did not warp as badly. Did use rafts for both. But, wow, did the PC material handle overhangs like you would not believe. That or I got lucky....I never discount that. But, it even handled all the areas that SandervG mentioned. The patterns are from the transparent material showing the internal support structures and how each piece was differently aligned to fit buildplate. There is the illusion that it has bad angles (Like creases in the saucer). It does not. It does have nice compound curves that will be clean once primed and painted. I will have to work out some warping I experienced with the CPE+, but hey, what model does not. Most pieces were printed one at a time to keep the print head from moving from part to part as some were tall and tended to wobble with just printing one part, let alone bumping into a tall thin piece and killing its adhesion. Did have to reprint a few because of that and the follow up will have methods I used to overcome this. May be not the best method, but, hey, it worked. Top View: Front View (note that there is a 900 count bottle of Ibuprofen to prop the saucer. Since it is not glued on, it will tilt, but when glued, the model is quite balanced):

And for that I am grateful. You kept me from leading another person down the wrong rabbit hole. And, I should have just linked to the support page.

If you bought it in the US, all are built and parts here: https://fbrc8.com/ Very helpful, good people.

keep digging. If you went that high on your temps, you probably cooked the devil out of it and it is really burned on. Time and patience. Get into the zen of the cleaning and not hurry.

I just thought this was cool and wanted to share it. Found it while looking into the 'Anti-Overhang' method. 6-axis 3D printer

That is not a high enough temp for PVA/PLA hot pull. Try setting your temps to about 210° - 220° C and then wait until it cools to about 150°C for a hot pull. Atomic or cold pull would wait for the temp until about 89°C. Make sure you hold the Cleaning piece in place until it is about 120°C to keep it in proper contact with the material in the nozzle as it cools. It will need this bond to pull out cooked in material. Also make sure that you place the print head in one of the corners to prevent the rods from being bent while pulling the material out. It will take pliers and a bit of strength to get it out during an Atomic pull. Or, did you mean to say 250° - 275°C and it was just a typo? (asks the king of typos)....

And for those that do not have access to cheap silica gel, Rice (cooking rice) is also an excellent desiccant. That is why they tell you to put wet electronics in it; to dry it out properly without harm. Not as good as it will create its own 'rice dust' through friction, it is a quick alternative while you find, or wait for it to ship. Best of all, you can cook it when you are done. Just wash the heck out of it first.

I have never heard of this beast. Where can I get some references that are specific to your point? Off to google now, but posting just in case. You can do this with anti overhang meshes. Well, that was weird, I had a question about the anti-overhangs and it just posted the quotes.....may have been me, but here I go again: I have not heard of anti-overhangs before. I am off to Google to find this, but could you elaborate or point to a reference more specific towards your comment? Thanks! Edit: I did find the reference through a search, but for some reason it confuses the heck out of me. A visual guide would be appreciated if such exists or could be made.

Google is your friend...mostly...until they take over the world..... https://www.google.com/search?q=drying+pva+filament&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

Yeah, that print is something I have not seen before. Usually when I have encountered something like that, it was purely graphical. But, showing the print is good to see. Thanks for that And, yep, that is the way the print should look in sliced view when it is on the plate nicely. But, wonder why your version of cura and mine would differ? I am on the same version.

Not yet, but I'm working on it. Think we can ship this with 2.6 final. Cool beenie weenies I know it is minor compared to some of the things you guys are working on. I truly appreciate it.

I have not downloaded the Beta version, but I was wondering if the new version will fix a minor annoyance when saving project files. Instead of just keeping the File Extension, it keeps adding .curaproject.3mf to itself. As in: My_project.curaproject.3mf would be listed in the name window but it saves as: My_project.curaproject.3mf.curaproject.3mf And will keep adding the extension unless you wipe it out or replace a file by double clicking on it.