kmanstudios

I took a look. Here is an image of three different slices using the Lines, Concentric and Zig-Zag. I could not reproduce the image you provided. But, it is laying flat. You can check that by taking your layers to the bottom and see if it is indeed sliced on the bottom. It was in my view. I did try different rez sizes (Draft, Normal, Fast) and it did not change and moved it around the plate. I do not think it is an issue. It just looks like the way the graphics are being drawn or something. What version of Cura are you using?

This may be a bit off topic, but when I build commercial models, I always wash the heck out of my parts. Mold release and all that stuff. I have carried that over to washing all my printed parts as well. Basic de-greasing/dish soap and just warm enough to not warp the plastic involved. Basically, not cold as that does not help the soap come off, and then a lot of rinsing until the fingers squeak on the material.

I was speaking for myself. I have had my work used by others, seen it in other people's portfolios, etc as well as seen other persons' models for free in one place and for sale in another. So, I am a bit more cautious than most. But, maybe someone else will help. But, have you inspected the model in a 3D program? There are free ones that can help you such as mesh mixer.

Wanted to take a look. I get a message telling me I am not authorized to access the page, even though I am logged in.

If they were purchased, then I would not think it is a good idea to spread them around.

Sometimes environmental conditions can affect that sort of thing.

It would seem that the red areas are creating an issue. As for sharing files, if you downloaded them, then you can post the link from where you downloaded from. That would be easiest as it would let people see what issues you may have from the master files.

I look forward to seeing what you find as a solution. I am doing my first print with ColorFabb while the Supersized Enterprise is setting its final epoxy gluing. I am using the translucent orange, Seems to be printing ok. Will know when I get the print off. But, most definitely looking to see what you come up with

Can you elaborate on that? I would like to know what you mean. also, what version of Cura are you using? Cura has sliced properly for me at all times. And, be aware that many of the files you download are not really that well made with all sorts of errors in them. Try looking at the x-ray view to see if it has any red in it. I have found a lot of models I downloaded are full of red areas. This goes for OBJ and STL files. Also, position may play a part as, if I am correct, it works off a 3D Grid and you may be falling in between grid areas is the walls are not angled or in the right place. A link to the file so someone may take a look could be good too. Just because someone hit the export to STL button does not mean it is a proper STL file.

I too sent a PM and not no response. Does anybody have this that would not be upsetting to HReedijk? I do not think it is right to post a link for everybody unless he/she approves, but there was the offer though through PM.

That is an interesting question that I cannot answer at this time as I do not use that function.

Are you asking how to create the video? Hardware, software? For people to download and review, drop-box, ftp server, etc.

I agree with gr5 on the strings. Different materials do create interesting situations, but clean up of that is minimal. And, since, for the most part, I go about finishing up the print by way of sanding, priming and painting for the most part, Those are really small issues for me. And, having built a gazillion commercial models, it is less trouble than trimming the flashing or even warping that heat or improper storage (or worse, just a bad series in the commercial lineup/production run) can do to a commercial model over time or even fresh purchases.

Just for the heck of it, I checked my printing time: 2632 hours hot.......since mid-January..... LOL I think you should rename it "Umex" because 'it takes a hittin' and keeps on a printin'!!' Seriously, still getting good prints out of this monster :)Very rarely switch out the BB core and have not switched out the AA core yet in extruder 1.

Oakely dokely Thanks!

I know larger cores are recommended to extrude materials like T-Glase for optimum transparency.

Just out of curiosity, What materials with these new cores be made of? Standard Brass, Steel, Super-composite lining or some other strange animal I am unfamiliar with?

If I am correct, and depending on Team Ultimaker or someone better prepared to correct this, but I understand that you are better off having a core in both slots at all times. If I am not using the PVA, and not using the additional AA core, I just back the PVA out of The BB core, clean the outside, clean its innards with pulls and let it be until I need to change or use it again. Then I just advance the PVA back into the nozzle, do a preheat on the core and then a move on the material to make sure it is primed and flowing.

Thanks!!

When I replied earlier, I had awoken to the sounds of my printer making bad sounds because the CPE+ filament binded itself on the spool and had been air printing for a while. 3AM with only two hours of sleep..... So, as a follow-up, I would ask a couple of noob questions that you can answer when you figure things out. 1. If you have not leveled or cleaned the plate in a while, nor used the machine in a while, would that not be step one? I mean clean it with degreasing dish soap, then very thorough washing followed by a solid alcohol wipe and mabe fresh glue. That stuff can get 'stale' and lose its 'ooomph' in a short time; at least here depending on humidity levels. 2. Printing PLA at the temp you describe, would that not create blobby bottoms? I think they are called elephant feet, or some such. I usually print PLA around 200°C or less, or just a bit more depending on brand and type. 3. Now, I did find on one piece that I had trouble with, I had to really kick the heat up on the buildplate to make the part stick and not warp with PLA. I mean I had to kick it up to 80°C and I usually do not have to do that at all. Especially with a shape as yours (Top cross section being rather boxy or radial in x and y) as my piece that gave me issues was a long, thin piece. Just throwing spaghetti at the wall to see what may stick :)Look forward to the answers you find.

Out of curiosity, and noobness, the CF means Carbon Fibre and is that not abrasive for the brass nozzles that come on the UM Models? Basically, killing the nozzles very quickly.

My pleasure And, keep asking questions as they arise. There are plenty of good people here that will actually answer you with respect and decidedly good information. I actually count on them to correct me, and they have, so that I have a better understanding.

That is odd with the PLA materials. I have not used Colorfabb yet. Got a roll waiting for me to get to. But, PLA is so....well....bulletproof. I do hope you follow up and present a solution if you find one. Adding to the data banks as we type

What machine and version of Cura? Also, be aware that different colors and such can really cause a difference in your printing experience. That is why you can make and save material and printing profiles for each instance (My experience on Cura 2.4 and 2.5 in conjunction with a UM3X). Can be a bit of a pain going through a long list, but it is better than having to try and remember every little thing when you run into odd things like you describe. But, if it is skipping, it would seem (I am guessing) to be underextruding. Try to raise the flow and see if that helps. Also, do you hear what could be a 'popping sound' from the feeder area or binding on the filament? A popping sound would indicate a tension adjustment is needed as it can grind and cause poor feeding. A binding is when the filament sorta gets wound on itself and creates a friction 'knot', for lack of a better term. There are far more experienced than myself, but just throwing stuff out there that has worked for me.

The absolute toughest, with the highest tg temp and strength I have found is polycarbonate. There may be tougher out there though. But if you want to check out the printing needs for PC filament, check HERE and the product page HERE to see the pertinent data sheets. I have not been printing for long, but this stuff is impressive and following the directions I linked to will make things better. The only thing I could add, if you do not have a door, is to tape some bubble wrap across the front and do it early in a preheat phase so the ambient temp in the build area can come to an equilibrium before printing. Keep in mind that strength will depend on how many walls and percentage and type of infill. Will also depend on how thin the part is.