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kmanstudios

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Everything posted by kmanstudios

  1. Just to add one more thing about Autodesk: Their 'free software' always seems to get cancelled and then rolled into a paid product. It would seem that Autodesk is using that free software as an open beta program to either test features or a way to check for future monetization byway of popularity and feedback from users. Since Autodesk and Adobe have not really been innovating for a long time, they are having to switch to the subscription model to make any money. To paraphrase the CFO of Autodesk at a shareholder meeting a few years back, "We are not selling upgrades or product for several versions as a time and need to look at new ways to monetize the product line." When there are cheaper and powerful alternatives that actually focus on what the creative people need, and not just moving menus around and throwing what we would call a 'point release' out every year back in the day and not an upgrade and then charging so much for it. I remember when the yearly upgrades were just $400.00 USD. Yes, I feel like Autodesk is the significant other that has strayed and it feels a bit like a betrayal.
  2. OK, I get the manual leveling as a way to set a distance, equally on the main 3 points. But, here is where I am not sure of the purpose of Active Leveling: Since it went to 3 different points from manual leveling, I am assuming (and we know how dangerous that can be) that the active leveling is not setting distance but checking alignment from one nozzle to the other by way of using the 'touch build-plate glass' to check the comparative distance between nozzles. So, right? Wrong? Go get more coffee and clear those cobwebs manually?
  3. I take no umbrage as what you offered was good advice. Especially since I bill myself, here on this site, as the Clumsy Noob from the Nooberse. But sound advice it was I did think of another thing that is giving the look you mentioned. It was a fractal based shape and it does not perfectly align at junctures with some parts going a bit behind or in front of each other. But, I was so busy playing I did not think about getting a light source inside. I will have to drill out a hole to insert the light...LOL...duuuhhhhhhh But, it is quite the testament to how solid Cura can be.
  4. OK...just woke up with only a little sleep (print finished) and at least remembered to take the picture of the error message. Forgot all the other steps....duhhhhhh....will try again when it happens. But, here is the pic of the error message I get...basically nothing but a 'return' and the 'print symbol' with USB Drive lettering. Nothing else.
  5. I agree that making things with better intent is the way to go. But I tend to just try loopy things to see what software or hardware do in odd circumstances. What some people see as a flaw, I see as a different application. The "mixing" is a bit of an optical illusion and a bit not. For the most part, you are seeing through the model as it is translucent and you are seeing the joins and not overlaps. But the top and bottom did do a layer of red and then a layer of blue. It is thin walled and I am loving the experimental feature of hollow objects. And I am still impressed that it did this as all the Autodesk products I have used would have choked on that boolean op. Cura plowed through it and much faster than an error message in the other things I have used. Sometimes, it is just fun to play and see what happens. I am still in testing mode and I will try to extrude pancake batter if the mood strikes me!! LOL OK...that was hyperbole...sorta
  6. This is a print that I made with two models in a 3D Package. They were not subtracted from each other. Being 2 color and no support, it does have strings and a few globs to clean out, but I thought it was interesting in that Cura did a good job making a nice boolean and still keeping the nozzle information at the same time. Coulda planned it a bit better, but for just slapping an idea together, I'm happy with the results. Filament is translucent red and blue Matterhackers Pro PETG. Most of the strings are from the nearly horizontal areas of the print as it built up the arches. The long strings are the excess 'drippings' from the nozzle as it heated up and cooled down. Still trying to dope that out a bit. But they pull off very easy and I can X-acto most of the underside strings easily and then just a bit of sanding and sealing.
  7. While that sounds all noble, it prevents someone from developing personal work that could be private, forces someone to let hard work out for free and also allows others to monetize on free materials. I've seen that happen a lot. I have seen at least one model (BATMAN Bust) for sale at CG Trader and for free in another place. Either someone is selling something they got for free or someone paid for a model and released it, cutting the artist out of the equation. Either way, not good.Basically, if someone wants to release a model into the wild, that is their choice. But to make it mandatory means that I would not ever use it. Blender is free and has no such restriction. 3D Coat is surprisingly flexible and affordable. And Blender is in many ways more advanced than the Autodesk products that you pay through the nose for. Best of all, no need to be connected to work. Not everywhere is connected enough to allow that.
  8. I am moving away from Autodesk. They just are too big and slow. That and they just keep throwing new features (only to never improve on them) into nearly 30 year old architecture and the yearly upgrades are costing 50% of the full value. That and I hate the subscription model and need to be always hooked in. So, I am learning Blender and coupling that with 3D Coat. It's a wacky interface that is more remanent of Houdini than the Autodesk products, but they are actually more cutting edge than Autodesk. It will depend on your way of working as well as what you are attempting to do. There is no silver bullet solution.
  9. I second the 'not baby sitting' the machines. My goal is to be able to set it to work while I do other things. But, as a visitor from the noobverse, I get mesmerized by watching these things 'grow' layer by layer sometimes. Sorta reminds me of when I started doing my own 3D imagery using POV Ray almost 30 years ago. I would literally sit and watch it slowly draw line by line, surprising me that I had made the computer do that and it just happened.
  10. A quick way to test if it is a heat retention issue is follow Erin@Fbrc8's suggestion (and a few others, she was just the first to tell me). Just tape a bit of plastic or bubble wrap in front of the open area. I would not cover the entire thing as it would close off the top. This may contribute to a heat build up in the other direction.
  11. I looked at a lot of printers when I wanted to get my first one. I can tell you why I went with Ultimaker to start with: 1. It is a complete ecosystem that is still open source. By this I mean that it has its own filament system and profiles setup for that system. Makes it easier to learn on and then branch out. 2. I liked the mostly enclosed volume. 3. I am not crazy about the printers that move the bed as well as the print heads. That increases the footprint. That is a real concern in tiny Brooklyn Apartments, and I have one that is bigger than most. But by the time I put in my own dry box setup to feed materials, it will grow. But it will not move and can adjust where and what size boxes I make them from. 4. This does not mean I will not get a Lulzbot as they are worth serious consideration. Just looking at it from the noob perspective.
  12. That would be the proper spelling. I just did not check the first time and then decided I did like the misspelling. It is a fractal that I found winding through different types of fractals and playing with settings until I got something that caught my eye. I called it Humunculi because, to me, it looks a bit like a person with a smaller person inside. Not all homunculi were microscopic though. In some myths and stories, they were the 'familiars' to a sorcerer and were just small things to go out and spy and bring back information. There are variations on this depending on the source. Edit: Oh! The painting!! I found that using an acetone based paint, or something like that, would seem to sink in a bit and stiffen the nylon as well as provide a good primer to paint on. When I get my Allosaurus I am making for my daughter finished, I will post it as it was printed in Nylon and then painted in a few ways. But I am finding that the primer you choose will make a great difference.
  13. If you can rotate on the Z, then I would not know what is going on. But, I had a laptop just as you describe and it always gave me issues with clicking and dragging in one way or another. I had to be very careful.I am really lost on that though with your issues.
  14. My problem is that the print head collides with my hands. I think it is a speed issue with me. Usually though, I try to do the reaching or pausing when it's between nozzle changes and not on the print, but I still get nailed a few times and it kills the print. Remember that I am an old clumsy person and that makes a difference too. LOL
  15. Roger that. Good to know the restart does not wipe the log info. My prints are taking many hours and the error is intermittent. As soon as I have it, I will go through the steps and let you know what I find.
  16. This is a fractal I found (I don't know if you can 'make' a fractal deterministically). I used Incendia to make it. I am showing it because way back when I was studying Cura before getting the printer, I posted a screenshot and it was noted to be a difficult print. So, it came out fine and I credit the printer. If any of you have read the 'Noobverse' Posts, you will see just how much of a noob I really am. File render: Printed piece (painted) without flash: and with flash: Printed in Ultimaker Nylon (Transparent) and painted with a layer of Krylon base then oils and gold model paint to accent the ridges. Went for that old metal look....sorta.....
  17. Correct, if it cannot read / mount the usb drive, it would not be possible to dump logs. However, if you can dump logs, something really weird is happening, in which case the logs could help. Also, I'm curious to see, if after even an attempt of dumping the logs, the problem would be solved. Dumping the logs remounts the USB drive, and might make it visible again. I'll add that to my list of "Things to do" when it happens again. My errors are more intermittent than some here though. But, maybe it needs to be jump started by trying to dump the logs. Will let you know when it happens again.
  18. I know most of what this will say is just a lot of "Well, yeah...don't do that!" type of common sense, but it does merit at least a post of what NOT to do. And geared to the extreme noobs like me (I see a lot of "I just got my UM3" type of threads) and also for people like myself....just noobishness in general. When printing, do not stick your hand in to pull off a blemish or anything while it is running. It takes nothing at all to throw out the alignment. If you just have to reach in to do something, hit pause and then remove said blemish/string/whatever. I have tried to do it a few times, being impatient or thinking I am faster than the print head, and it ruins a print. Once the print is restarted, it seems to realign itself on the 'homing beacon', for lack of a better term and works fine. I got up this morning to check a print and thought I would just pull off a blob real quick.....bad idea. I knew it was messed up when it immediately started to not go to the switching station to lower/raise the nozzle properly and printed in the air. Like I said, it ruins your print, but will realign (so far) when you abort and it finds the homing area. But wow...a lot of hours wasted because I got impatient. >_<. Don't be me Duhhhhhhhhh.........
  19. I will have to say that you must click and drag ON the axis guides (RGB = XYZ) to rotate. If there is any distance from the cursor and the axis, it will not work. This can be problem in some displays such as small laptops and such. I've had to adjust the motions I use if I get onto different computers or screen resolutions.
  20. Instead of restarting, would taking the USB drive out, wait a few seconds, put it back in also fix the problem? Can you try with another USB drive and experience the same behavior? I have tried that and it made no difference. Even the display changes in the print mode. It only displays "Return" and the print symbol.As soon as it happens again, I will take a pic. But, I cannot dump logs if it cannot see the USB...yes? No? I am not WIFI'd or etherneted.
  21. I have made tiny little 'anchors' that are to hold the extreme ends down (Front of wrench and back of wrench in your case) and let the PVA be a simple support for long bridges. They are just boxes with a point on the end to minimize adhesion (easy to break off) while allowing for the anchor to sit firmly on the glass.
  22. +1 ! After every print (S3D on USB stick), I have to restart the UM3 ! Mine is more intermittent. I know it is a problem when I see that it only has the "Print symbol" when I go into the print mode on the UM3+.
  23. I have only had this happen (USB difficulties) since upgrading to this firmware version. I think there is a bit of a mismatch between Cura and the current firmware update that will be resolved (I hope, as this is just conjecture) when Cura 2.5 is released. One reason for this belief is that there are new features in the firmware that are being addressed in the new version, such as firmware can support CPE+ but 2.4 does not. There is also the strange move of the print-head that happens when it first primes the nozzle. Extruder 2 seems ok, but extruder 1 will move outward towards the print and then back up into the puddle it primed out and drag it around. Little things like that can have strange ripple effects throughout.
  24. I play with the settings in the PVA extruder to set things like stair step height to decrease time and waste as well as other settings like % of infill, % of support (I have gone as low as 8% support as the 'interface' between the support and model can still get what it needs). I enable towers and conical support to minimize amount until it is about to come into contact with the model. I've gotten some interesting spires and such doing this. I am learning which model types require more support for a cleaner bottom balanced against the materials I am experimenting with (PETG with PVA as a quick example). I am also finding that the printer does an excellent job of overhangs and bridging unless it is too extreme. I printed an overhang test (several) and found that it can handle up to 65° in angle and still have a decent bottom. If the bottom is hidden or not of import, I have pushed it to extremes beyond 65° (up to 85°). It's all in the torture tests. Here are a couple that will test your overhangs. And, make sure you test different filaments as they do behave differently. Some test not only overhangs, but are good for fine tuning detailed prints as well. Fidelity is just as important as ability to overhang or bridge in some cases. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40382 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1564848 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:704409 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1879347
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