kmanstudios

Insert a box in the jaws of the model. Then use 'per model' settings to tell it to print as support. Make sure you turn off the support for the main model though or it will put support where it always does.

👍

Yeah, still not a good thing for those without the wifi to do so, yes? And, not saying why it is unavailable is kinda not helpful either.

Yeah, just clicked the link in the first post and it does not have any download options for USB. I find this to be a bit surprising as it assumes that everybody is on unlimited bandwidth. I am on a metered connection for now and this prevents me from updating my systems. So, what is the difference between downloading the software to USB or direclty to the machine? Well, To use the machine itself and wifi, increases 'chatter' between machine and whatever is connected on the other end. My basic procedure is this: If I am checking email or reading articles, I engage the wifi on the computer only. When not doing so, I disengage the wifi. How do I know that there is chatter on the wifi when not using a browser? Well, I can see the activity happen on the wifi indicator on the wifi unit. Things are always pinging out, checking for this and that. It adds up. I do not stream movies. I do not watch TV on the internet. But I still struggle to stay under 50GB per month because of all the crap that is sent back and forth. So, my question is whether I will be able to upgrade my machine operating systems via USB or not? If not, then I have to re-evaluate a few things because these machines are stuck in this time warp of non update and I do not think that is a good thing. I can still print, but have to put up with firmware that has a lot of issues. And, that limits the fun.

That is the thing. It completes all active leveling and just homes to the docking postion without any errors. Then, the screen just goes to the very top menu (Please select print from USB).

Ohhhh...my mistake. Duhhhhhhh.........

I think this is the leading STL checker online: https://service.netfabb.com/login.php I thought freecad had a better reputation than this seems to present.

Yeah, the dent is a separate issue, But the 'topographical map' look of the surrounding area is looking to be the stairstep due to the angle of the curvature. You can see it in your slice.

My S5 has been doing something weird. It goes through the active leveling on the many points (Extruder 1), then goes to a 3 point leveling (extruder 2), parks the head with the buildplate in raised posiotion, homes the printhead and then just goes right back to the main menu to 'Select a print from USB.' I am not using Cura Connect or wifi. I am doing it the old way. I am not using the beta version of firmware, but am on the latest stable release. It is very, very annoying to keep cycling the printer through this and then have to keep doing it until it decides to work. 😕

looks like underextrusion.

I am hoping someone from Team Ultimaker will see this to verify or, clarify this. My memory ain't so good since surgery. It may be just general electrical interference. The good thing is that you can turn off the active leveling after manual leveling. It generally lasts as long as you have the same buildplate in place.

When I first inquired about this when I got my first UM3E (right after product launch), I remember being told here that the machine is susceptible to RF interference. With that machine, I have had to do what you did. Manually level and just print. It does not happen all the time, but when it does, I have to do as you did and then a bit later, it goes back to normal.

The model has all sorts of STL errors. Basically, it is not watertight. Here is a pic of the STL Check I ran in 3DS MAX. What this does is prevent the slicer from detecting a true inside and outside, therefore putting support everywhere. I am going out on a limb and guessing this is another Sketchup file.

That looks like the angle of the printed piece and the layer thickness created the stair-step. If notice, it happens on the longest slope and evens out on the angles with greater attack. I sliced something to demonstrate that.The images on the left has a greater angle from the buildplate. The image has a much lower angle (more horizontal) and has a stairstep that is much more prominent.

I did a 20 micron print ages ago and I could tell the difference between it and the 40 micron height. Just oodles and oodles of added time.

@SandervG, is there someone at UM that can explain this behaviour?

I wonder if this is something similar to what happens when people put brittle PLA in the oven and it gets more pliable. I am just thinking it is not a humidity related issue, but some other process. Heat does more than just dry things out. Would be nice if someone with some sort of chemistry experience would chime in so we were not just all guessing.

I tried a couple of thins and did not find a way to modify that instance. The only way I see to make it happen is to make a brim for your object.

That does not seem to make sense to me as if getting moist made it brittle, it would do so when dissolving it. PVA by nature is going to soften and dissolve when moist or wet. Why would it get brittle?

🤣 This is definitely not a humidity issue as humidity would make it softer and not brittle. When you get to an end of a roll, the winding is much tighter and you just may be in the really unusual situation where the PVA is so dry, it cannot relax enough to straighten out enough to feed properly. This happens on many other filaments as well. But, most are not hygroscopic. As counter intuitive as it may sound, you may need a humidifier in your room to get to around 50% or, just slightly less to let the PVA soften a bit to unwind. For other filaments, I use those ends as a cleaning filament. PVA may (probably) would not be good for that. But, you can recycle it into water to make a slurry for bed adhesion.

I printed some 'half prints' (flat on one side and sculpted on the other) to make vacuum formed molds and sent them to my nephew to make chocolates out of. The vacuum formed molds worked well. The more flexible material (I have to look up the type as I tried several types of plastic Vacuum Form sheets worked best. So, the idea of making a mold positive (3D printed) to make a mold negative is the best way to get around any issues. Although a filament may be food safe, it cannot be guaranteed to print food safe. Is the feeder system sterile? Is the nozzle contaminated by any external source? That list can go on, but also, as mentioned above, the FDM (really any printing method) will introduce air pockets, rough surfaces and various hollow spaces/cavities that can create a lot of issues. As for smoothing something with acetone will probably produce a suitably smooth surface, I am not so sure I would be comfortable using the finished product. I would not do it for my personal usage and therefore certainly would not do it for others to use for consumption.

And, th4ey would tell you to take it to a 3D printed forum, or just tell you to buy one.

This I get. But I did not make clear that point or that it was just a thought of having something that would provide for a barrier. :)

Ever just tried to turn off the filament sensor? Setting (Gear symbol)------->Settings------->Scroll down to the flow sensor.....actually, it is secong on the setting area. But, I am not on the S5 Beta. Also, PVA can just be a pain about setting this off because as soon as humidity makes it, by the least amount, pliable, it will give false errors.

I have not. I use a PVA slurry that can be dissolved. If frozen, will cut loose. I have chipped glass with PLA. So, I am thinking it should not be the glass.