kmanstudios

Whut he said.....8) I especially like that the active leveling uses a 90° angle to test against the main 3 screw points used to manually level. Kinda like having a second set of measurements. I could not find the language for the definition provided...this is spot on.<3

I had never heard of this stuff, so I did some digging. For me, this would be bad since, well, honestly, I cannot stand printing with ABS LOL But, that is me..... Polypropylene has a considerable amount of warp, more than ABS. Extrusion temp is within range: Extrusion temperature for polypropylene filament is 230-260°C Buildplate: The build plate should be heated between 60°C to 110°C with an optimal temperature of 60°C. PPSU (Polyphenylsulfone) Filament is way out of range of the printer by these specs I could find: Printer nozzle temperature: 360 - 400°C Heated bed temperature: 140°C + Both of those variables are out of range with stock UM3. I would not know if you could mod the printer for that. But, neither seems to have any corrosive capabilities like a carbon fiber or metal filled filament would.

You are quite welcome.....after all, we all have plastic in our arterial bowden tubes LOL

In the 'per model settings' they are "Per Model" regardless of the extruder. For instance, you can change the speed of each model and such. Each model can have its own support settings (from within Cura) such as overhang and all. But, in the materials grouping there are only two of the 25 or so available settings: Default Printing Temperature and Flow. Some things must remain common as it is currently designed. I am guessing it is the mathematical relationships as mentioned by ghostkeeper of Team Ultimaker in another thread (variable Layer Heights on a print), so you will not always find all the custom settings in the per model area. But the simplest thing, as you have requested is to be able to tell your support models to use the extruder with the PVA filament and leave the rest to the common settings on the right hand side of the interface.

No need to ungroup. You can also Ctrl-click (or Command-click) an individual object that is inside a group. Ctrl+Shift-click also works to select multiple objects, even in different groups. That is good info to have Too cool....thanks!! 8)

To align objects as you wish, they need to be adjusted in your 3D package so that they all share a common pivot point. Once in Cura, load each model part separately. Then click on a part and then, in the tab on the left side, click on the icon that looks like 3 hour glasses. This is your 'per model' settings. You can select each extruder per model as well as select most other settings that would be found in the custom tab. Speed, support, etc. Remember that most can use the common settings, so be sure that you do not overly replicate the settings. Once all model parts have their individual settings, then select by holding down shift and clicking on each model, or use CTRL+A (Select all) or use the select all option in the edit drop down. After that, then (with all model parts still selected) go back to the edit drop down and choose "Merge Models". this will align all selected model parts and use the pivot point to align them and then group them. To adjust the settings, if you change your mind or think of something, you have to ungroup (In the Edit drop down) and then make your change(s). Then you go back and merge them again.

I was changing out filaments today. I had a roll of PVA already loaded. I was putting on a roll of PLA. When it tried to read the NFC chip, it said "Too many materials detected" and it would not let me select at all. Even when I got to the selection screen, it would kick me out to the warning. So, shut down, rebooted a few times and nothing changed. So, I took the PVA roll off the spool holder, placed the PLA back on by itself and then it said "PVA not supported on AA Core" or something to that effect. Then it clicked over to seeing the PLA and moved on ahead. I pulled the PLA spool off, replaced the PVA spool and then the PLA spool and it has been happily printing since. But, that was strange.....weird even, I tells ya!! Anybody else seen this? First time since January (Since I started printing) I've had that happen. Usually smooth operations on that front.

I would put that in the 'Neato-Keeno' category

Well, I had a goofy thing happen to me this morning. I was at work (next to my printer at home) and I hear those little synthesizer noises coming out of the printer, just all happy and such and then a loud pop. I turned and looked and I had neglected to make sure I had enough filament to finish a long job last night. Soooo, being the cheap bastich I am, I paused the print, pulled off the bowden tube (From both ends) and tried to do a 'spot weld' between two filaments. Did not work. I only had about a 9 inch leader from the end of the filament and the feeder. Cooked off several inches trying to weld it to a new PLA filament. Now, I did not have the same brand of PLA, so there were some incompatibilities involved. One would melt faster than the other, etc.... So, in desperation, I cut the filament that was feeding into the machine way above the feeder, reloaded the next filament, making sure that both were cut as 90° as possible to butt up against each other. Slid the bowden tube over the main filament and then snaked the new filament through the feeder and into the tube, abutted to the main filament. And, Voila!! Danged if it did not work! It fed nicely and just made a new color where they changed from main filament to new filament. Kept an eye on it as it fed to make sure it did not bind in the tube, but, it just fed nicely and kept on going. I will get caught up after I do some main checking on my computer as I am getting some strange errors on the drive. Spent a lot of last night having to back things up little by little as the drive would just grind to a halt, then have to reboot and do some more. That is why I neglected to check my filament length before starting the print. A bit preoccupied with my files. But, that is no excuse, and now, I have a great experience of an emergency 'filamectomy' in the middle of a print. I'll post some pics once the drive is figured out.....sigh......

As dorky as it sounds, try to clean the back connectors with Isopropyl alcohol. I like to use 99% pure to cut down on contaminants. I switched a BB core out with an AA core and then back again and I must have touched those tiny, delicate contact points in the back and it would not make the adjustment. Cleaned it with the alcohol and it worked again. I now make sure that I do not touch that area, but it is good to clean every now and then as air pollutants (Dust, moisture, etc) will eventually crud it up a bit.

This is a total kluge, but I take the part that is supposed to hold the printer and feed the filament through the hole to serve its purpose. BUT!! I put the oversized spool on the holder without putting the guide in the spool itself. I actually let it hang off the table my printer is on and let gravity take care of it. As I have gone through some spools of filament, I save the properly sized ones and 're-roll' filament onto it. This way: A) If I have another vendors PLA (for instance) it can be recognized without going through that extra step. And, most other vendors, their spools are not the same size or weight. B) Should the spool from another vendor be 'too heavy', the proper sized spool will hold the correct weight and provide the needed size to fit comfortably. If a roll is too heavy, it can bind against itself and cause issues. If a roll does not have the feeder to 'guide it' as it come off, it can get binded into itself. I know 'binded' is not a real word, but 'bound' sounds like it is tied up. Tangled may be a better way to put it, but I like binded as it is binding into its own crevices as it feeds. Of course, now that I think about it, it could be kinky filament, which opens a whole host of other issues. Yes, it is a silly play on words....... At some point, I will print out the parts to make a dry-box that will alleviate that problem and the angles at which the filaments are feeding into the feeder. That would be a new spool holder and such.

No worries. To show the picture, make sure you have put in the Http:/ or HTTPS:/. It does not like the generic www.yourlocation.com. But, having seen the pic, I can say, with a lot of certainty (and that ALWAYS gets me into trouble) is that your tension on the feeder is not correct.I had that happen a lot. Check here, the first pic has the same issue: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/36111-material-is-ground-down-by-the-feeder Be aware that different manufacturers of filament require different tensions sometimes as well as different types. And make sure your roll has not binded against itself (crossed lines, etc) and has a free, easy pull off the roll. Good luck!!

Not sure where you would do that as I have turned on all settings in preferences as well as checked "Show all" in the per model settings. I think someone got their line widths and line height mixed up, or I have not found the secret doorway.

One question: Did you use "Merge" or "Group"? They are two different things. As for what merge is doing is just aligning the pivot points and then grouping them together. But, group by itself just lets you create a 'collection' or 'group of models where they are located (Keeping offsets, rotations, etc) and allowing you to manipulate them as if one model. But, Cura, as far as I have found does not let you split models into individual pieces. Say a model is made of 5 cylinders. You bring that in as one model. Then, you decide to move just one of them. It does not break up the model that way. They have to be brought in separately. In a way, that is good. When I first started to study Cura, a couple of months before the printer arrived, I downloaded a lot of models to just study. Many of them were just one piece slapped onto another such as the Buddha variants, Yoda Buddha, Darth Buddha, etc. If they got treated differently, it could mean an issue. Most programs will let you break up a model, but if I have to do that, I will do it in the 3D Package and let Cura be a solid slicer. I do have S3D. Yep, paid for it. But, not fully versed in it. Now for 2.5, I have not had seen a layer height difference to be selected. Almost all other functions are, but not that one and a few others. For instance the material options per model are mostly not available. Edit: I just looked, it is line widths that you can change. But, I see nothing about layer height changes.

Pictures and settings would be a help to diagnose the issue

Environment and personal space: Cannot take that into account. That is why you have to learn the science of things. Equipment coming off the line not in perfect condition: Though rare, it happens to every technology device and machine. And, there is the accounting of user error when starting out. Which brands of materials and faulty batches. Like I have said, I have pushed the machine to the limits, put a major pounding on it and it has held up quite well. You can have your regrets over the purchase, but I know I, and, many others do not feel the same way.

Gotta put this on the to-do list. Very nicely done

oops? I took a quick look. Nice stuff. You will definitely enjoy 3D Printing. What 3D Software are you working with? I have lost a lot of interest in the Autodesk products as a whole due to the company as a whole and lack of innovation. I Like what I have seen of Blender and have been playing with SpaceClaim. They have a lower end, free version of it, but it is a really nice, well thought out program. Nice paradigm they use. I also use 3D Coat for a variety of things.

I completely agree. One time, during an extremely 'poor' period, I received a commission to paint a piece for an advertisement. I had no real money to buy anything but the three primaries and white and black. Not even brushes. So, I painted it with Q-Tips that I had laying around and a re-purposed piece of illustration board. I will tell you that the UM3 is a very robust machine. I have been printing with it since the middle of January practically non-stop and, it has take abuse from my clumsy hands and just general "Let us see what happens if I do......" It has never let me down, the people here have great insight. Welcome to discovery land!! It is a blast

Well, I dood it. I managed to splice the end of one part of PVA onto another part and get it to work. I spliced three parts total and it has greatly extended the life of the rolls. Did it the flame way using a candle and trimmers to get the fusing down to a decently consistent diameter and it is feeding properly. Thanks for the tips!!<3

For me, coming from a background in 3D where you can use local or world rotations, it would be helpful to see that implemented as well as rotational values in a read out like it is in scale and translation.

I am an autodidact by nature and an info junkie. Also by my experience, it ain't the tool, but the person behind it. And, a lot of people here use different tools, so it is good to get their experience as well. So, I get the trial and error thing. And, you are in the right place to ask questions. If you want to see some trial and error at work, go check any of my posts. I am trying to share what I am learning as I am not far ahead of a lot of people here, but nowhere near as far or experienced as most others. And, one of my favorite things is to be corrected. It is part of my learning process. Also, learning the lingo can be a pain. I look forward to seeing your posts in the future

As an after thought, I am not sure you need PVA supports, or any supports, for the Thor Hammer. The overhang bevels of the hammer are only about 45° and the machine should handle that with no trouble. When I did my initial tests for overhangs and such, I found that I could get up to 65° without getting crunchy.

I have found that using an Ooze Shield helps a bit. I am using it more than the priming tower. Also, maybe try lowering your PVA temp a bit. Depending on Environmental conditions, it may be too hot. Also, different machines have different quirks. Back in the old days (When we rode dinosaurs to our jobs in the Quarry) we called it "Fingerprinting the Press." I am like you, I jump right in and just do it until it works. I gum up a lot of prints, but, each failure is a learning experience, and sometimes, I luck into something new or, just find what fails in one idea is actually an opportunity in another direction. Kinda what we called "A happy accident" back in those dino days. The only thing I can suggest, if you really are like me, expose all the controls, learn what they mean by doing a lot of small prints that take less time and plastic. And, read, read, read, research, research, research and do not worry about anything that someone would call "A Stupid question". We were all noobs at one point. After printing non-stop since January, I am still considering myself a noob A clumsy one at that. There is a lot of information out there that fills in blanks in the oddest places. I just burned nearly 3 days of printing large items with a material I am not fully familiar with trying to fine tune my 14 inch Enterprise.

I do not do facebook. What is wrong with consolidated information here? Just asking. But not everybody does Facebook.