kmanstudios
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Posts posted by kmanstudios
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No worries. To show the picture, make sure you have put in the Http:/ or HTTPS:/. It does not like the generic www.yourlocation.com.
But, having seen the pic, I can say, with a lot of certainty (and that ALWAYS gets me into trouble) is that your tension on the feeder is not correct.I had that happen a lot.
Check here, the first pic has the same issue:
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/36111-material-is-ground-down-by-the-feeder
Be aware that different manufacturers of filament require different tensions sometimes as well as different types. And make sure your roll has not binded against itself (crossed lines, etc) and has a free, easy pull off the roll.
Good luck!!
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I didn't look but I was told that we can change layer height now in cura 2.5. You might have to enable that - the per-object settings by default only has a few visible but you can turn on several more that aren't visible by default.
Not sure where you would do that as I have turned on all settings in preferences as well as checked "Show all" in the per model settings.
I think someone got their line widths and line height mixed up, or I have not found the secret doorway.
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Thanks! Okay: the good news is that I got Group to work as you describe. Don't get why, or what it thinks it's doing, and arranging several multi-part models on the build plate is fiddly, but it magically works.
Bad news: Layer height is still not selectable per-model. Are you seeing something different? Or is there a patch?
One question: Did you use "Merge" or "Group"? They are two different things.
As for what merge is doing is just aligning the pivot points and then grouping them together. But, group by itself just lets you create a 'collection' or 'group of models where they are located (Keeping offsets, rotations, etc) and allowing you to manipulate them as if one model.
But, Cura, as far as I have found does not let you split models into individual pieces. Say a model is made of 5 cylinders. You bring that in as one model. Then, you decide to move just one of them. It does not break up the model that way. They have to be brought in separately. In a way, that is good. When I first started to study Cura, a couple of months before the printer arrived, I downloaded a lot of models to just study. Many of them were just one piece slapped onto another such as the Buddha variants, Yoda Buddha, Darth Buddha, etc. If they got treated differently, it could mean an issue. Most programs will let you break up a model, but if I have to do that, I will do it in the 3D Package and let Cura be a solid slicer.
I do have S3D. Yep, paid for it. But, not fully versed in it.
Now for 2.5, I have not had seen a layer height difference to be selected. Almost all other functions are, but not that one and a few others. For instance the material options per model are mostly not available.
Edit: I just looked, it is line widths that you can change. But, I see nothing about layer height changes.
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Pictures and settings would be a help to diagnose the issue
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Again i would think that a 3500 euro machine and a company that has been the pioneer of 3D printing will take those factor into consideration when designing a new machine. I just done have the time for failing prints because of things like that.
Environment and personal space: Cannot take that into account. That is why you have to learn the science of things.
Equipment coming off the line not in perfect condition: Though rare, it happens to every technology device and machine.
And, there is the accounting of user error when starting out. Which brands of materials and faulty batches.
Like I have said, I have pushed the machine to the limits, put a major pounding on it and it has held up quite well.
You can have your regrets over the purchase, but I know I, and, many others do not feel the same way.
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Gotta put this on the to-do list. Very nicely done
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oops?
I took a quick look. Nice stuff.
You will definitely enjoy 3D Printing.What 3D Software are you working with?
I have lost a lot of interest in the Autodesk products as a whole due to the company as a whole and lack of innovation. I Like what I have seen of Blender and have been playing with SpaceClaim. They have a lower end, free version of it, but it is a really nice, well thought out program. Nice paradigm they use.
I also use 3D Coat for a variety of things.
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I agree. I have crazy large equipment at work and while, for example, it may function as a hammer if I can figure out how to make it work like a screw driver why not. Just because a tool has function X doesn't mean in the right hands it can't do many other things. This is what I am looking for out of my UM3. I want to know every limitation and how to push them into benefits.
I completely agree. One time, during an extremely 'poor' period, I received a commission to paint a piece for an advertisement. I had no real money to buy anything but the three primaries and white and black. Not even brushes. So, I painted it with Q-Tips that I had laying around and a re-purposed piece of illustration board.
I will tell you that the UM3 is a very robust machine. I have been printing with it since the middle of January practically non-stop and, it has take abuse from my clumsy hands and just general "Let us see what happens if I do......" It has never let me down, the people here have great insight.
Welcome to discovery land!! It is a blast
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Well, I dood it. I managed to splice the end of one part of PVA onto another part and get it to work. I spliced three parts total and it has greatly extended the life of the rolls.
Did it the flame way using a candle and trimmers to get the fusing down to a decently consistent diameter and it is feeding properly.
Thanks for the tips!!<3
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For me, coming from a background in 3D where you can use local or world rotations, it would be helpful to see that implemented as well as rotational values in a read out like it is in scale and translation.
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Thanks. I am a scientist by training and used to trial and error approach. I think I will turn on all the settings and start playing. I realize the Hammer likely doesn't need supports and have been playing more with printing without supports or PVA. Things are going fairly well, but as I mentioned I want to dial in the printer to print very small with high accuracy. My biggest issue is bed leveling and I am slowly digging through those issues now.
Jared
I am an autodidact by nature and an info junkie. Also by my experience, it ain't the tool, but the person behind it. And, a lot of people here use different tools, so it is good to get their experience as well.
So, I get the trial and error thing. And, you are in the right place to ask questions. If you want to see some trial and error at work, go check any of my posts. I am trying to share what I am learning as I am not far ahead of a lot of people here, but nowhere near as far or experienced as most others.
And, one of my favorite things is to be corrected. It is part of my learning process. Also, learning the lingo can be a pain. I look forward to seeing your posts in the future
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As an after thought, I am not sure you need PVA supports, or any supports, for the Thor Hammer. The overhang bevels of the hammer are only about 45° and the machine should handle that with no trouble.
When I did my initial tests for overhangs and such, I found that I could get up to 65° without getting crunchy.
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I have found that using an Ooze Shield helps a bit. I am using it more than the priming tower. Also, maybe try lowering your PVA temp a bit. Depending on Environmental conditions, it may be too hot. Also, different machines have different quirks. Back in the old days (When we rode dinosaurs to our jobs in the Quarry) we called it "Fingerprinting the Press."
I am like you, I jump right in and just do it until it works. I gum up a lot of prints, but, each failure is a learning experience, and sometimes, I luck into something new or, just find what fails in one idea is actually an opportunity in another direction. Kinda what we called "A happy accident" back in those dino days.
The only thing I can suggest, if you really are like me, expose all the controls, learn what they mean by doing a lot of small prints that take less time and plastic. And, read, read, read, research, research, research and do not worry about anything that someone would call "A Stupid question". We were all noobs at one point. After printing non-stop since January, I am still considering myself a noob A clumsy one at that. There is a lot of information out there that fills in blanks in the oddest places.
I just burned nearly 3 days of printing large items with a material I am not fully familiar with trying to fine tune my 14 inch Enterprise.
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I do not do facebook. What is wrong with consolidated information here?
Just asking. But not everybody does Facebook.
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In cura 2.X you split your cad model into 3 cylinders, load all 3 stl files into cura and merge them (right click after slelecting all) then on left side you can change settings - oh! except not layer height[correction, cura 2.X now does layer height per sub-object also].
Okay, so I'm trying to figure out how to do this, step by step. If I have entirely separate STLs, how do I align them properly? There doesn't seem to be a snap-to-grid, if get the top portion floating above the bottom, even if slightly misaligned, and then click "lay flat" it moves to another spot on the build plate...
If I export my STL as a single file, even after splitting my "part", Cura seems to take it in as a single part, not as a pair of parts. Same is true whether I put some air between the split or not.
Finally, if I manage to get them arranged on the plate -- per-model select settings doesn't include layer height.
Help?
In your 3D Package, make sure that all parts have the same pivot point. Bring all parts individually into Cura. Select all parts (Shift + Click or CTRL +A or Edit menu/Select all). Then go back to the Edit Menu and choose "Merge Models". That is how you get them all into one piece. The pivot point aligns them properly. So far has worked like a charm for me.
But, before you do that, select each part individually and go to the icon on the left bar and choose the one with 3 "Hour Glasses". That is what I call them.
That would be your individual settings per model. You can choose the extruder as well as choose options that are available on a per model basis by clicking on "Select Settings".
Been using this a lot to set individual things like horizontal expansion or whatnot for each piece as I experiment.
Hope this helps
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If you want large bearings made in China.......
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PLA/PVA works as advertised
Nylon/PVA Works as advertised
NinjaFlex-SemiFlex-Got it to work:
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/34651-flexible-filament-on-um3
Sometimes it depends on whether I need a 'real' support or just something to cradle the print's underside.
I have been experimenting a bit with PC/PVA using the 'cradle' analogy, but it failed miserably when I needed it to do a real support. It also bonded very slightly so that when using an ooze shield, it just was weird.
ABS/PLA, again, depends on whether you are needing a support to stick or just cradle. I am not a fan of ABS anyway. But, since I am getting better at PC printing, I may return to ABS and try again. I got three spools of the stuff and I just hate waste......
I also use PVA slurry made from recycled PVA supports as my main bed adhesion.
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Yes, model engines are fascinating. Sometimes non-functional demo-models, but sometimes also really working models in metal, or metal with glass cylinders. Some of these Youtubers have made fantastic things.
Also, I just thought about it: there do exist companies that can 3D-print in metal. Some only for decorative items (thus low dimensional tolerances) such as Shapeways, but some also for industrial applications with higher accuracy. They often use this for injection mould making.
So what you could do is design the model, print it in plastic first to test if everything works as desired (no valves or cylinders hitting each other etc...). This will save you a lot of time and money. And then have it printed in metal. Don't expect it to be cheap.
But I still doubt if it can be done without a lot of post processing. Industrial iron or aluminum cast engine blocks also require a lot of machining to get them within tolerances.
The best known industrial 3D-printing companies in Belgium are, as far as I know:
Melotte: https://www.melotte.be (specialised in metals)
Materialise: http://www.materialise.com (specialised in really big prints, mostly plastics, for car manufacturers)
Did not even think of the metal printers.....duhhhhhh
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You could check to see if the printhead cable came a bit loose during the move. What you report is part of the communications error messages.
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23154-there-is-a-communication-error-with-the-print-head
This also is something to check with this:
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23155-there-is-an-i2c-communication-error
Those two errors are connected.
Unscrew those two screws in the top, back of the printhead out, slide a small screwdriver in those little slots and it will slide right off. With a small instrument, push down on the plastic sides of the cable connector. Mine has come loose when using a lot of heat over time. I am guessing that the heat makes the plastic soft and loosen.
Also, next to a washing machine? Doesn't that throw your humidity levels way up?
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I wish I could find the reference, but I have read that Windows 10 has had issues with video driver upgrades.
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While I understand your frustrations, there are many things to consider, with environment being a biggie.
I can tell a difference between when it rains and when it is dryer. When it is humid, the PVA acts strange, sometimes stringy and crackly and barely sticking at all.
And, consider that with all electronic devices, especially complex ones, some machines are more equal than others. I can say that my machine has been taking a pounding and barely been 'not printing' since January, 24/7 with few letups or turn-offs.
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I've had pretty good luck with PETG and T-Glase. Although in the same family, is it different enough to make a big difference?
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Sounds interesting. Do you know what is in it?
Seems with being washable, it would have to be some sort of PVA type of base.
Smell? Ease of dissolvement?
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I second making this as some sort of sticky. I asked about this and was pointed to this thread. But finding it on my own was difficult. Also, not sure what to search for back then as I was calling it auto-levelling and that can make a difference.
While the details may change with updates and such, the philosophy makes a good instruction on how things work.
Now, when I change buildplates, I just active level to make sure the glass is good and off I go. I will manually level at various times to just make sure there is no 'drift', but this made me more comfortable with the process.
Problem with larger spool of filament
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
This is a total kluge, but I take the part that is supposed to hold the printer and feed the filament through the hole to serve its purpose. BUT!! I put the oversized spool on the holder without putting the guide in the spool itself. I actually let it hang off the table my printer is on and let gravity take care of it.
As I have gone through some spools of filament, I save the properly sized ones and 're-roll' filament onto it. This way:
A) If I have another vendors PLA (for instance) it can be recognized without going through that extra step. And, most other vendors, their spools are not the same size or weight.
B) Should the spool from another vendor be 'too heavy', the proper sized spool will hold the correct weight and provide the needed size to fit comfortably. If a roll is too heavy, it can bind against itself and cause issues.
If a roll does not have the feeder to 'guide it' as it come off, it can get binded into itself.
I know 'binded' is not a real word, but 'bound' sounds like it is tied up. Tangled may be a better way to put it, but I like binded as it is binding into its own crevices as it feeds.
Of course, now that I think about it, it could be kinky filament, which opens a whole host of other issues.
Yes, it is a silly play on words.......
At some point, I will print out the parts to make a dry-box that will alleviate that problem and the angles at which the filaments are feeding into the feeder. That would be a new spool holder and such.