kmanstudios

Okay, so I'm trying to figure out how to do this, step by step. If I have entirely separate STLs, how do I align them properly? There doesn't seem to be a snap-to-grid, if get the top portion floating above the bottom, even if slightly misaligned, and then click "lay flat" it moves to another spot on the build plate... If I export my STL as a single file, even after splitting my "part", Cura seems to take it in as a single part, not as a pair of parts. Same is true whether I put some air between the split or not. Finally, if I manage to get them arranged on the plate -- per-model select settings doesn't include layer height. Help? In your 3D Package, make sure that all parts have the same pivot point. Bring all parts individually into Cura. Select all parts (Shift + Click or CTRL +A or Edit menu/Select all). Then go back to the Edit Menu and choose "Merge Models". That is how you get them all into one piece. The pivot point aligns them properly. So far has worked like a charm for me. But, before you do that, select each part individually and go to the icon on the left bar and choose the one with 3 "Hour Glasses". That is what I call them. That would be your individual settings per model. You can choose the extruder as well as choose options that are available on a per model basis by clicking on "Select Settings". Been using this a lot to set individual things like horizontal expansion or whatnot for each piece as I experiment. Hope this helps

If you want large bearings made in China.......

PLA/PVA works as advertised Nylon/PVA Works as advertised NinjaFlex-SemiFlex-Got it to work: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/34651-flexible-filament-on-um3 Sometimes it depends on whether I need a 'real' support or just something to cradle the print's underside. I have been experimenting a bit with PC/PVA using the 'cradle' analogy, but it failed miserably when I needed it to do a real support. It also bonded very slightly so that when using an ooze shield, it just was weird. ABS/PLA, again, depends on whether you are needing a support to stick or just cradle. I am not a fan of ABS anyway. But, since I am getting better at PC printing, I may return to ABS and try again. I got three spools of the stuff and I just hate waste...... I also use PVA slurry made from recycled PVA supports as my main bed adhesion.

Did not even think of the metal printers.....duhhhhhh

You could check to see if the printhead cable came a bit loose during the move. What you report is part of the communications error messages. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23154-there-is-a-communication-error-with-the-print-head This also is something to check with this: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23155-there-is-an-i2c-communication-error Those two errors are connected. Unscrew those two screws in the top, back of the printhead out, slide a small screwdriver in those little slots and it will slide right off. With a small instrument, push down on the plastic sides of the cable connector. Mine has come loose when using a lot of heat over time. I am guessing that the heat makes the plastic soft and loosen. Also, next to a washing machine? Doesn't that throw your humidity levels way up?

I wish I could find the reference, but I have read that Windows 10 has had issues with video driver upgrades.

While I understand your frustrations, there are many things to consider, with environment being a biggie. I can tell a difference between when it rains and when it is dryer. When it is humid, the PVA acts strange, sometimes stringy and crackly and barely sticking at all. And, consider that with all electronic devices, especially complex ones, some machines are more equal than others. I can say that my machine has been taking a pounding and barely been 'not printing' since January, 24/7 with few letups or turn-offs.

I've had pretty good luck with PETG and T-Glase. Although in the same family, is it different enough to make a big difference?

Sounds interesting. Do you know what is in it? Seems with being washable, it would have to be some sort of PVA type of base. Smell? Ease of dissolvement?

I second making this as some sort of sticky. I asked about this and was pointed to this thread. But finding it on my own was difficult. Also, not sure what to search for back then as I was calling it auto-levelling and that can make a difference. While the details may change with updates and such, the philosophy makes a good instruction on how things work. Now, when I change buildplates, I just active level to make sure the glass is good and off I go. I will manually level at various times to just make sure there is no 'drift', but this made me more comfortable with the process.

Yeah....I was highly frustrated with the printer people at the college I used to teach at. After a few bad prints, I asked what slicer they were using and could not tell me.

There are some cool YouTube videos of people doing this with bought models (styrene type) such as the Revell 1/8 scale 8 cylinder and others. Some are great because they have see through parts that show the actions of the engines and timings. May be a good place to start if you want to play with that philosophy. Or, metal cast as suggested above. Not only is the heat a big problem, but the expanding force of each firing. I think the closest you could get is with a printer that can print in Kevlar, Carbon Nanotube or Fiberglass. And, even then, I doubt it is a good idea. Dem tings be metal fer a reason.......

If you are using Cura 2.5, it can be done. I have been experimenting with it. Sometimes too little on my experiments, but usually not. Scroll about midway through this thread and you will see a pic of toward supports in action. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/42478-learning-from-the-noobverse-for-all-the-noobs-having-fun-with-the-um3 That is, if I am reading what you want right. But it does save on filament and time.

Huh? o_O

Just finished resplitting the nacelle struts and arranging buildplates. 9 Buildplates in all (with current gang-up). Ganging up the parts was based on Support or not. Times are mostly between 10.5 hours and 20 hours with one being 43.25 Hours. I have to get the 14 Inch model finished and posted before I begin this monstrosity.

I got to thinking yesterday about the 14" model and broke it up. Not everybody has a buildplate the size of the UM3+. So it got a P, S and E for Port, Starboard and Engineering. I do like the idea of shaped pegs and not built in joiners. If someone has to scale down any of the models, the tolerances get smaller and too tight. This way they can always scale down the pegs and apply a bit of horizontal expansion on the pegs to accommodate the tolerance change. As for the supersized, well, Sander brought up a point I had to test. And, that meant resplitting the model to fit once you put in the support structures. That means the extra nozzle and a lot of space lost. So, in a way, back to the splitter. I am not sure how many buildplates at this time since I have to reconfigure. And, while only printing at 0.2mm/200 Microns, it will still take quite a while to print. Between the antihistamines and just getting my antibiotics on Monday, my head is just beginning to clear a bit and not so much coughing. Sleep is a many splendored thing.

I second the cleaning the nozzles after every print in the highest order. Both nozzles for me because the other nozzle may pick up stuff. Also, some of the AA core type materials are hydroscopic and will sizzle and crackle like PVA. So, I just hit them each time a print is finished. In addition to what I said about the temp. drop, keep in mind that the idea is to drop it low enough to reduce the carbon build-up, but still allow flow. Different material manufacturers have different qualities.

They count on us to not have a life, or, common sense.....

Well, I am designing each model for printing close to original size. The small, 14" and supersized. There will be playing room for either upsizing or downsizing each model. But I wanted to really give something that worked within the scales I am printing. Each model is a lesson for me. How to make water tight (and no red in the x-ray), scale up and make interlocking parts. If yer gonna play, just play with something you love and have intimate knowledge of. I've been fighting a severe sinus infection that has moved into my chest and I am a bit behind in posting the follow ups. For instance, the 14" had a printing flaw. Not enough to do another 72 hour print, but I did make a fix and will use it in the other thread as a tut on how to 'fix things' using my experience as a kitbash modeler. For instance, I made a custom Batmobile from a '67 Corvette. We had the '60s version (still a classic), the '80s versions (Tim Burton) and I made it to fill the '70s when it was drawn to be a modified sports coupe. So, used to makikng do with things that are able to be fixed. Some weirdness happened with the printing in a few spots. But it will be coming up as soon as I am not feeling like death warmed over. The printer has been working a lot. Thank goodness I ahve a backup of test models to print while I sleep. And, I did a quick test of the nacelle to check the joining pegs and scoop placement. Got that nailed. And, yep, it did require supports. Fortunately, it can be done by model settings and speed things along.

I have used a PVA slurry and PVA brims. I do have a piece of bubble wrap to tape over the front when using materials that require a more constant texture. You will find a test I did in Gigi's threads linked to above.

I have found that dropping my PVA temps to help a bit. It also depends on how humid your environment is. While I have a roll of Ultimaker waiting to be used, I am experimenting with Matterhackers PVA and I print with it usually at about 200°-205°. It did greatly reduce the amount of junk. Still burns a bit on the outside when humid, but not so much dropping of bits.

Really cool Thanks for the hard work!!

Thank you for posting that. I have been doing a lot of work and therefore not upgrading the driver even though it pops up all the time bugging me. Now, I shall wait. Thanks!!

Here is an example of the time change in output just by running the same file at a different time: Old time- 49.25 hours New Time- 49 hours I am not sure why this would be. It is not much, but should the times not be the same?

To be honest with you, I kinda like the over-estimation of time. Beats the heck out of under-estimation. And, doing what you suggest is beyond my capabilities at this time. I'm still fine tuning my settings for temps and materials. And, printing long time prints...11-72 hours or so....Kinda kills that experimentation on that fine of control.