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Posts posted by kmanstudios
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Just to be clear: my salt method works very well for *PLA* only as far as I know. So for PLA it can replace all other bonding methods for me. But it does not work for ABS. For NGEN it works a little bit. I have no idea what it does for nylon or other materials (let us know if you would ever try it), but I guess you have better chances with dilluted wood glue, glue stick, hair spray, 3D LAC or so.
As kmanstudios says, I have also noticed that cheap alcohols and other cleaning aids do leave traces of oils or soaps on the glass, sometimes making things worse. Isopropyl alcohol (as also used in desinfectants) seems to work better to dissolve oils.
My bad...I did mean the Isopropyl. DurrrhhhhhhLOL
My favorite method of adhesion is recycled PVA. So far, it has worked well, even up to 100° C.
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That is good to know as I am moving away from Autodesk in all its varied forms.
Sorry to tell you this, but Meshmixer is an Autodesk tool too...but at least it's free.
:( :(:(:(
Wonder how long the Free part will last with those clowns.
From what I heard, the main developer of Meshmixer left the company, but they have had a couple of version releases since then recently. Some of the functionality has been incorporated into ReMake, but that's not as easy to use--and costs money.
I hope Autodesk keeps their maker-oriented free tools available, but I've already seen some of them being discontinued, such as the 123Dapp site.
They have a very bad habit of doing that. Their innovation has gone downhill for years and their yearly "upgrades" barely qualify as a point release by most standards.
They also acquire products, fold them in, and then never upgrade them again. Take the 'Canvas' feature in 3DS MAX. Put it in and never made it better. It was low grade quality when it was implemented and poorly integrated, and it never got upgraded.
And when their subscription model means half the price of the product per year, it is time to look for alternatives.
for instance, MudBox.....
3D Coat is far superior in every way. And, wow of wows....you actually own it and get to participate, freely in their beta development much like here. And, oh mercy me, 3D Coat is responsive and no excuses!
I reported bugs to them for years, then met a rep and told him. His response, apparently not big enough to warrant paying attention to. As if actually fixing a problem was too much trouble. And the fact that it is nearly 30 year old architecture, it is beginning to creak and crumble, hence forth the constant fixes.
I was an Autodesk Certified Instructor, which means I loved the software at one point. But, now.....sigh.......
I now support the little guys because they are like the software companies of the old days. Energetic and responsive. Just like here.
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That is good to know as I am moving away from Autodesk in all its varied forms.
Sorry to tell you this, but Meshmixer is an Autodesk tool too...but at least it's free.
:( :( :( :(
Wonder how long the Free part will last with those clowns.
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Went to look at 3D Prints and the same good folks that think spamming a 3D print site like Youmagine was not enough, they hit the main forum's 3D print page.
sigh.......
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I have not tried geert_2's method of salt yet, so I cannot comment.
But I will strongly echo the clean glass statement. I go the extra step (because I am not using salt or tested the method yet) of cleaning with alcohol. Then I put on my special Papa K's Slurry slush.
And when a print comes off that does not pull up the slurry, I will still wipe the surface gently with alcohol (right over the PVA slurry). Basic over the counter, 79 - 99 % pure. I always use the highest grade I can get locally just to cut down on contaminants.
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Not too shabby
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If nothing has changed, assuming all other factors are the same (adhesion, temps, etc.) and the Nylon is the same, I would think that maybe an environmental factor may be involved as well. Or, is it a new batch of Nylon?
We had a humid weekend here last week and it made my PVA not want to stick to plastics. Did ok on the glass bed, but a trial run just got worse and worse as the humidity got to it. I could hear the cracking of the filament grow as the night progressed.
Nylon absorbs moisture a lot too. Sometimes I hear it crackle :(
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I have used good old fashioned Testors modeling glue as well as some of the others mentioned.
It is a welding agent, but can be messy if you are not used to it. Not a fast dry though. No burns or other issues so far. Even worked with Ultimaker nylon
But, types of PLA, environment and other issues can cause any glue to fail. Prep is everything.
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3ds Max is a powerful tool, but I haven't been able to spend much time to learn it yet. However, a tool that I do have more experience with is Meshmixer. Although it is a free tool, I was able to use it to extrude your STL file and add a closed off flat bottom, making it a water-tight model for printing.
If you decide to try Meshmixer, the basic steps to accomplish this are:
1) Ctrl-A to select the entire model
2) Edit / Extrude; extrude in the Y-direction with an Offset of about 100mm; Accept and Clear Selection
3) Edit / Plane Cut; move cutting plane to where you want it and Accept
4) Analysis / Inspector / Auto Repair All to clean up the model
You will have to be a bit patient for your computer to process each step because this file is big (~3.8 million triangles)
That is good to know as I am moving away from Autodesk in all its varied forms.
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Are you in the Border Suboject mode of Editable poly? And make sure you use the transform gizmo arrows. This will keep you from selecting or deselecting as well as lock the motion into the direction you want to move in. A border is just a special instance of edges where it surrounds a hole.
To get a feel, try just clicking on a box (one you make) and do the shift/transform cloning action. It works exactly the same.
What version are you on?
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Wow...it really is bad. I went there today to look at a print and took a while to find it from all that mess that has nothing to do with 3D printing. Just so-so cartoon art.
And, no, I am not a snob. I love comics and am a cartoonist at heart meself.
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Default speeds and such are good starting points. But so many things can affect the print quality in areas. Filament changes, environmental changes such as temp and humidity changes.
Just try cutting back the infill speed. Make sure your infill type is not too thin by way of too large of steps and such (Again, the cubic/tetrahedral thingy). Make a simple cube or two for fast testing and see how the infill starts to change.
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Thank you very much for such a detailed workflow - I will definitely give it a try.
Jan
Oh, you are quite welcome. Please feel free to message me if you have any questions. I am a fountain of information and BS LOL...
But, I seriously do know 3DS MAX inside out and am always happy to share knowledge. Or, just ask here so everyone can benefit....
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It depends on what you want to do.
I have experience in 3DS MAX (Former ACI) and am learning Blender and 3D Coat.
I would imagine that Blender and 3D Coat would be able to either add thickness or some such.
If the scan results present a contiguous surface, here are steps to fix in 3DS MAX in almost any version ever made.
1. Import model
2. Convert to Editable Poly. Much more robust than standard mesh type and better tools to work with. Z is the vertical axis in 3DS MAX and Cura.
3. Go to 'Element' Subobject and click around. If all of it gets selected, then it is properly welded into a single element. If it just selects portions, then do steps 4-6. If it selects all of the model while in Element Subobject, Then go to step 7.
4. Go into vertex mode and select all.
5. Choose the 'Caddy box' next to weld. The caddy is a modeless dialogue that allows you to change settings and test the result without having to try, undo and change, then try again. The Checkmark is the 'Accept and close Caddy' command. The red 'X' is the exit. The Green Plus symbol is accept and be ready for the next changes to try. I suggest check mark or red x until you are familiar with it.
6. Do a weld with the minimum distance threshold to make sure the whole model is one piece. Too high of a threshold and it will start to 'lump' vertices together and ruin the integrity of the scan. You basically only want to weld vertices that are either on top of each other or just really, really close.
7. Choose 'Border' subobject mode and click on the outside edge. This will select any edge that is continuous around a 'hole.' The outside edge will see the open space as a 'hole.'
8. With the Border (Edges around a hole) is selected, hold down the 'shift' key on the keyboard and move it downward away from the top. Clear a lot of area since you want to be able to grab stuff easily and then move to proper location. As a note, the shift and transform of anything in 3DS MAX is a cloning operation and will clone the edges/border while creating a connection/surface between the old and new edges/border.
9. With the new border (created during move and shift cloning) selected, go to the modifier panel and click on 'CAP'. This will create a polygon that seals the model into a manifold object.
10. Go to the Polygon subobject and select the new capped surface. Then navigate, in the modifier panel, to the make planar tab. This will make the polygon bottom flat. You can click the 'Make Planar' button or the x, y or z buttons next to it. Since it would be a surface scan as you linked to, I suggest the Z direction since it will flatten the bottom nicely. This is assuming that your new surface needs to sit firmly on the 0 (Zero) - Z axis point.
I hope that made sense.
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This is not a complaint. All things have been handled quite well. But I wanted to pass along a sort of 'Butterfly effect' that happened when I replaced parts.
When I got my Ultimaker 3+, the feeders were odd. The tension indicator never moved and I could not understand why.
I had to take apart Feeder 2 and, without knowing what I was doing, I sproinged out a small piece or two that affected that feeder. But, feeder 1 was not adjusting properly as well.
The good people at Support (Ultimaker and FBRC8), have replaced my Feeder 2 and the Fan guard that I bent also. Both issues were replaced even though I messed up the parts.
I changed the feeder last night. Before doing so, I opened it up carefully to see what it should look like on the inside as it would adjust the tension indicator properly. I wanted to see how it was supposed to be on the inside.
What I found was the feeders were not properly assembled from the suppliers. For instance, both tension screw adjusters were on the outside and not inside.
I made my feeder 1 match the new feeder 2 assembly and replaced the feeder 2 on the machine.
So, the long winded setup is to state that it made a huge difference in how my material feeds and thusly, my presets I had been calibrating as I could properly adjust the tension for the differences in filaments, either by type of manufacturer.
Therefore I spent from about 10PM until 3AM resetting and testing the new setup to remake a preset. And it made a difference.
Little changes can make a huge difference.
Just passing this along for all the noobs trying to dial in new settings. Keep the hardware in proper shape as it really is small differences that make a difference.
I have not replaced my print-head cable or fan guard yet. Wonder what affect it will have as well.
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I think default profiles infill speed are sometimes a bit high, can you check what infill speed you have? I usually change the infill speed to be similar to the other speeds.
As I have experimented, I have created that by what DidierKlein says. I have tried to push boundaries to increase speed without sacrificing quality and two things have affected the infill in my tests.
1. Infill speed
2. choosing a type of infill that has steps involved (Tetrahedral as an example) and setting them too high.
Just passing that on and seconding the suggestion.
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You can try using XTC-3d. It will mask the layer lines and you'll be able to paint on it
I would also suggest looking through the forum about that stuff. I, like others, have had mixed results with it. And I have three boxes as well as being disappointed with the results I got.
But, it is worth checking out, hence search for the threads. There are a variety of people who have had success.
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What was it supposed to look like? But, it would seem from the outset that if you could not see it in Cura using solid or xray, something was not right with the model.
How was the model produced and did you convert it and if so, what software was used.
I've never seen anything like that, and I have messed up a ton of prints experimenting.
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I am not sure what you mean by color it. Do you mean to paint it or something?
As for finishes, that would depend on what you are looking to do. From what I have read (and this is not any sort of final word as I am a bit of noob meself), is that the usual methods for smoothing ABS does not work that well with PLA and not all PLA's are the same.
If you are painting it, shoot it with some primer. I have tried Acrylic primers and Acetone based primers (Like Krylon) and that gives you a nice surface that you can sand on and spray paint. I have used acrylics, enamels and water soluble oils (Water mixable or Water Miscible, depending on brand) and they work well. I am using modeling painting techniques, so that is where that is coming from. I would avoid lacquers until you test them on ruined parts to see if it melts your material. Lacquers are very 'hot' and can eat through some materials. Thus, the old adage, You can paint enamels onto Lacquers, but not lacquers onto enamel as it can eat it and cause bubbling. If you are experienced, you can paint in very thin layers until it builds up a shield, but that is not advisable unless you have been at it a while.
All of the methods I have mentioned are not food safe, but are skin safe. Wear protective masks in case you are spraying any paints, or have a spray booth.
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Would your nozzle size also be a limitation as a restriction on the x/y axis? Kinda would like to know that since it could be a factor for me as well.
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Use the Tweek At Z Plugin in earlier versions of Cura or in Cura 2.4+ Extensions->PostProcess->Modify GCode and select Load Plugin & Tweek @ Z 5.1 from the list. Fill in the parameters and let it recalculate. Then save. Done.
That sounds a lot easier than what I was doing! LOL
I was breaking the model up into pieces, then setting parameters into each model part and then combining. While easy for some models, it would be very cumbersome for most types that I make.
Much appreciated!!
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PS. Also for manual leveling, an option for abort will be useful.
If something is wrong during leveling, you have to do the procedure till the end.
I had that happen today. Burning the candle at both ends, I am a bit doofier than normal. I just keep hitting buttons until it is cycled through to the end and not actually doing any leveling.
I do agree that there should be an abort option to properly exit, but I jut wanted to pass along this because you can just go "blip, blip, blip..." until it is cycled out to the end. Much quicker than what I used to do which was level anyway.
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Here are my first prints with PC. I used my patent pending "Papa K's Slurry Slush" (yes, that is a joke.....) as the print bed adhesion. Put a nice layer down. As the plate cooled in open air, you could hear it release. Just came off like a charm :)I also used PVA as the brim. Printed as Draft and no supports.
Here it is just after 'lift off'.
The print was too fast to make clean spirals. Though....
I printed a smaller version with the same settings. But, I took the pokey things on top off the main model and used two separate models combined. This allowed for the Main Body and the Pokey things to have two different print speeds. These are images of the second version with only the pokey parts changed and it shows the nice circular bridging it maintained.
And finally, my first tests of PC and PVA together. I did manage to get the PVA to allow the PC to 'sit on top' of the PVA like a raft as well as using the PVA as a brim. The test is a series of issues that could arise, such as, Long thin pieces that would tend to warp, different support structures and types of supports.
Layers before PC is laid on top of PVA in circle region.
And then the first layer of the PC on top of the PVA. It was a real &$!!#@&!!! to get the PC to not just drag around when laying that down.
The print failed due to a different reason and I will get back to finalizing that as soon as I can. I just have to get some samples out and I lost time this weekend getting stuck on the PC/PVA problem. Dog without a bone and all of that....
One of these days, someone will hire me for those talents.....Asperger's does have its advantages :PLook at how much better the Pokey things look at this angle.
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OK, so now I have the small print done and ready to show. It will be up soon for everybody to get the model, g-code and project file. Just juggling a few things right now....
This is sitting in a pan I got to let the PVA slurry and bottom of the print separate from the glass.
Then, once it comes off, onto the bowl where all the PVA can soak. I really had to let this soak a while so it would let go of the pokey thingy on the deflector dish......
And here, I am harvesting all my PVA that I can. I even put all the towers in and get the bits between layers of materials. Squishes out like an accordion. But, taking the goo off helps the underlying areas of PVA get soaked. And, sometimes, it just pops off easily.
Nice and clean now and on the stand. You can see a thumbtack in the background. Draft Print even held the Pokey thing at the front of the Deflector dish as it is smaller than the 'needle' of the thumbtack! But, I did beef it up a bit in the modeling program so that you would not have to use horizontal expansion as that would kill other details.
The Deflector dish and Array up close.
From the front:
The underside where the Saucer, Engineering and Nacelles/Struts sat on the PVA. It even preserved the window and navigation lights
And a shot of the top of the saucer to see the windows. Depending on how the windows aligned with the angles and print rez, you can see the windows. They are all cut in everywhere on the ship.
Some areas are cleaner than others, but the ship is raw in these images to not 'pretty up the results'. All flaws are as the printer (and, I am sure, my settings) allowed.
But, wow! What a difference between it and the Crappyprise on my first attempt:
As soon as I can, I will get this up online. The project file will have it posed on the plate at 110% of model size. I just wanted to push the boundaries a bit. But at 100%, it fits really, really nice.
As I got my support settings better figured, I managed to save time on the printing. I managed to get the Large model from 81 hours in my first sett of posts down to 68 just by playing with towers and conical supports. That is the main reason for including the project files when I upload.
The large on should be done by the first of this week as I have to get some other prints out first. But I am fiddling with settings to maximize speed of print against quality of model. That is the biggest reason the first print failed so badly. Settings not optimized.
Edit: At print size here, the Enterprise is right at 8 inches long. That is 110% of the model that will be included. I did test the model at 100% in the slicer to make sure the pokey thingy in the Deflector dish did not disappear during print. But it is very, very delicate.
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....and they have started to spam the 3D prints section of the forum
in UltiMaker.com
Posted
It is just idiots who think they can advertise anywhere. I thought the valentine's thing was some sort of 3D printed wreath and then the next image was a city photo that looked like a bad postcard.
I could see it if they had stuff they designed for 3D prints.....to a degree. But posting the facebook and phone number, etc.
Just wonks who want to spam as much as possible.
And, possibly a spam bot too.