kmanstudios
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Posts posted by kmanstudios
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I know the new firmware and Cura will have many more materials (PC, TPU, etc) and is being optimized. Temperature is not the only concern when printing as chemical incompatibilities may keep things from sticking. Guessing on that one as I have experimented a lot with materials. Nylon works great as ABS does not. Temp difference is not that great.
But, I am not eager to hop on betas as a clumsy noob.
What are the new compatibilities concerning PVA as a support and other materials other than PLA and Nylon?
PC is something I am looking at due to its high Tg temp (110°C - 113°C).
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I have had my UM3+ since January and this has always been the behaviour. It is a bit odd that it floats across both extruders.
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Finally got the print off. So far, this is the first print to go through at 26 hours. I have started the next print with 27.75 hours to print.
To make clear, most of the errors I had this week were filament related. High humidity and other factors.
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Well, signals in your printer are susceptible to electromagnetic fields from other electronic equipment.
There's regulation for that, and we passed immunity tests for this. However, if you put your printer next to an old milling machine with sparking DC motors, communications inside the printer can be affected.
My own Ultimaker original would often quit printing over USB when I turned on a 12V halogen lamp on my desk.
Ahhh, ok. I thought that may be what you meant. Thanks for making sure for me
The only old and creaky electronic device in here is me.
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What is not yet clear is why in rare cases (as David wrote earlier, we have 1 printer in our office displaying the same behaviour) the communication the serial connection breaks.
I think it is quantum entanglement between our printers o_0 Spooky action at a distance strikes! LOL
As for the other, thanks for the info. I am trying to piece this together as best I can and any information is good.
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I noticed that if you have adjusted the bed height manually too high with the thumb screws the spring pressure isn't enough to give the right feed back(?) for auto-leveling. We had an issue where every print was giving the "Difference detected too great..." error until we lowered the plate significantly with the manual thumb screws and re-leveled the build plate.
I am too new to give a definitive answer. But I find it usually has to do with either gunk under the nozzles (cleaned it and re-ran active leveling successfully) or when changing the glass plates, it can get knocked a bit. It is a springy board and that is why I got the extra glass plates. I can get one off easily, put on another and do a new active level. I have noticed that it is still good to do a manual level often as it will drift out of alignment or start to skew.
Also, as glass is a difficult substance to manufacture with hyper accurate results, changing build plates should be manually leveled often anyway. I always do an active level after I manually level it. Mostly to check myself or get rid of any skewing that I did not notice.
And, I have read that there are some glass plates that are not perfectly level too.
I do tend to keep my thumbscrews close to full extension with just a little back off into a comfortable range of motion. Too tight in one direction or the other and it starts to get hard to turn.
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I am not sure what you mean by electrically noisy area. Please explain.
I'm in a basement apartment and I rarely get any cell signal here and about the only thing running close to me is my tv or computer. Upstairs people are rarely home. Printer is not connected to Wifi or USB cables.
But currently, I am in hour17 of a 26 hour print and all is going well. I am happy about that.
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No, what was happening before was that it would just stop. Nothing would happen or was operable. No error messages or anything. Just stopped working with only the ability to flip through the menus, but not operate anything. And the lights would dim as if it was in a resting state. It would require a complete shutdown and restart to get it back to any responsive state.
What happened this time was that it had the error message and remained operable (i.e. it would lower the buildplate, display the message and lights remained on). But it would require a shutdown and restart to get the menu to operate. But the system remained operable (doing a proper stop action, for lack of a better term), whereas before it would not respond and the buildplate was at it's last location with the print head stopped, and glued, to the plastic where the error occurred. But I could manipulate the menu before.
This time, menu was at error message only and no select-ability with wheel.
Newer firmware (3.6) would stop all mechanical actions, but menu would move, but not activate.
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OK, I finally got an error. Herer is what I postulate is or did happen:
I have been getting communication print head errors. One is the Er18 and the other is an I2C.
Keeping up with the other thread on the firmware and seeing the Linux overload issue (My words, inaccurate, but what I can surmise) may have not allowed the system to properly close out (lower build plate) and put up the notification.
It took me this long to get a print that has gone for enough hours to cause an error. I was having serious issues with a filament that wanted to bind and grind or not stick with the PVA. Could have been a humidity issue. But changed filaments and this one lasted long enough. Took almost two days straight of failures on the filament to make me change it out.....
Edit
I am going to update the newest firmware version to see if this can be replicated. I have had the print head com issues before. That seems to be a running problem.
Maybe not as I do not see a direct link to the 3.6.3 testing version.....so I continue to print.....I hope.
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All settings and display are consistent. It is just an odd behaviour I noticed. And when I restart (usually because it will go into a slicing loop or just not slice at all) it seems to be more efficient. Times drop, a bit of pep in the step speed wise. And, maybe I just got a weird system.
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Oh man... now I get it
Yeah, that was my mistake. I just figured that Star Trek would be that ubiquitous. Kinda lets you know just how geeky I really am in real life.....
But, I do NOT own any uniforms......just some toys, models..., made my own Enterprise in 3D, did a flying animation of it going behind the launch bay of the space shuttle......hurrrrmmmm....mebbe the uniform is not so far fetched after all..... o_0
One day I will deconstruct my Enterprise Model (From the original series) and make prints of it.
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The UM2+ was codenamed Jar Jar.
Mebbe, mebbe not, but the context is different I am sure.
Mayhaps, one a fun way to poke at and have an internal joke, and the other to malign.
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I think the Jar Jar Binks comparison is off, but patents are there to protect people in this day when everybody thinks everything should be free, but fail to recognize that it is a business reality. And, yes, businesses can be good about it or bad. And without patents, there are patent trolls who will seek to take advantage because that is really their only business.
Just like artists getting their work ripped off. Constantly. So, I think the patenting is a good idea and hopefully a patent pool of people will arise.
So far, I think that I will take a wait and see how the company evolves. But I do think they need to take steps to protect themselves. You will know when the tide turns if it becomes a closed ecosystem like some others I researched and discarded because of the expense and limitations of 'only their filaments' among other things. Closed ecosystems tend to lead to dead-ends because they are not having to be competitive based off an established user base. Autodesk and Adobe would be a good example of lack of innovation compared to the smaller companies. Their user base allows them to not have to 'try' anymore, else they would not have to have subscription models. Shuffling menus around and throwing things on top of 30 year old architecture will fail sooner, rather than later.
And, if they do turn to a closed ecosystem, then people are free to seek a different platform to operate on.
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Since I have rolled back my firmware, and am testing a few things, I can say that my USB problems went away. I had to pull an all nighter to try and get a large print setup properly for the comparative test on the firmware. That meant a lot of USB activity as I do not connect VIA Wifi or directly from the computer. No issues and I had that USB in and out many, many times last night and this morning.
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Sorry but I not know. The A4 was circa 3,500 GBP (before Brexit of course 8))but the A2 is considerably upgraded and is of course bigger. Their stuff is all CNC milled and turned but if you are wanting to run a business with it, apart from the glass, fans and belts, it is all steel and alloys with attached longevity and reliability and worth the investment. Only suitable for wealthy hobbyists
That makes sense. I am just leery when it is a 'quote request' Vs. Just telling the price with options.
I do like that it is enclosed very much and the ability to have multiple nozzles are nice. But, as I am just starting out, I am hoping by the time I get around to looking at the large format printers, Ultimaker will have something comparable size-wise. But that is sweet looking.
And big!!
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I looked up the 3ntr A2 and it has the ol' "ask for a quote." Just how much is that thing?
I agree about putting together a printer at my level of experience. At this stage, although I do like tinkering, I also prefer to have it come in and get to work.
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On one of our UM2 I also had this a few times, but it was always in dry winter weather, when I touched the printer frame and got an electrostatic discharge with spark. It was on those cold dry days when I would get a shock and spark when touching almost everything. Sometimes the sparks were up to 10mm long, so that must be several 1000 volts. This discharges seems to interrupt something in the printer; it could be a shielding or grounding problem. After a power off and on, everything was fine again.
Your problem could be totally unrelated of course. Does it stop when you are not around at all (then probably unrelated), or when or shortly after you touched it (then maybe related)? And in what weather or environmental conditions?
I am usually in bed when it happens. And it has been humid here in NYC the last week and a half with rain coming through about every other day or two. It is the sudden cessation of sound that gets me out of bed or from across the room to find the problem has occurred.
Tonight, I have been on the machine all night with trying to dial in a larger print and made some tweaks to my spaceship design after seeing the smaller print. So, I'm about 8 or 9 hours behind where I wanted to be.
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I have had Cura open for a while now and over time, I have noticed that it becomes less efficient the longer it remains open.
An example would be to slice a few models and play with settings. Let us say the time comes in at 8 hours.
I have restarted Cura, which leaves the last settings in place. Then load the same model and the time drops to say, 7 - 7.5 hours. Now, keep in mind, with my UM3+ the times have been spot on or even, in a few cases, a bit of an over-estimation.
Or, like what happened when I was setting up my latest test: I was watching the print due to a firmware issue ( Link to Thread )and noticed that the support interface came up in open-ish triangles. The support interface was at 100%. I checked the support interface in the layer view and it showed the same pattern. But, I restarted Cura (It had been open a really long time) the support pattern, in the layer view, was now correct and filled in. No other changes other than the restart and reload of model.
Anybody else notice this or am I the only doof that leaves it open when I am testing to dial in settings?
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Just an FYI, for those who are still experiencing this, this thread has a link to the rollback version (with version number no less!!) and I have not seen this error pop up since. My errors were more intermittent than others, but if you want a roll back version (if you do not have one) go to this thread:
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/40115-um3-just-stops-in-middle-of-print
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LePaul...LePaul...LePaul....
Sigh...now I have to go look that stuff too!! LOL
I am very curious about these types of machines as I gain understanding and hearing this info from you guys is very helpful, such as giving me new things to look up to know what you are talking about.
I have been doing mostly materials sciences and trying a bunch of filaments out, so most tech I have learned is very specific to the UM3+.
It be good to branch out a bit
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OK, it finished an 8.5 hour print with no issues. I just started a 26.5 hour print (one that had been failing) and will see sometime tomorrow morning Brooklyn time as it has always failed somewhere between 10 and 13 hours.
Fingers crossed and an update when I know more.
I still think the system as a whole is more responsive to the rolled back version.
Also, no USB issues so far either.
Edit: Almost 6AM and I'm still tweaking some things after my tiny print. Will be a bit longer to see about the fail.....
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Schweet!! I had to go look it up because I could not figure a small printer inside a large frame
I would be interested to hear what you think about it when you do print with it. Will yours have dual extrusion, what materials capable, etc?
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OK, came back from an appointment and the printer was air printing like a faeiry wand trying to will the plastic into being....not related, but it gave me a chance to roll back the driver and am now waiting on prints to see if it solves the problem.
But, I do believe that I had a better control on the leveling when I replaced the glass buildplate. It just seemed to have a bit of finer control when manual leveling.
The air printing was a simple bind and grind while I was out. Again, not related.
Will keep updating here as I find things, or, do not; which I am hoping is the case
A couple of successful, long time prints would be nice. -
I am really impressed with my Ultimaker 2+, so much so I am selling off my Ultimaker Original. I just don't need to tinker as hard with the UM2+ for a great print. (Plus I am always doubting my building skillset when bad prints happen!)
The Ultimaker 3 is a very, very nice printer. On my wish list for a while.
It is coming into its own with the extras now becoming available. Things like different core sizes and such.
It is a great machine to learn on as it is easier to define user error vs software/hardware error. That and the built in ecosystem.
Configure Material Flow in Materials Database
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted · Edited by Guest
I just start with the basic presets and then configure based on the filament needs. This would include the flow amount for regular printing as well as the flow for the priming tower if you use one.
Then go to the profile tab and click on the down arrow. You will see "Create Profile from custom settings/overrides."
This is how I am making profiles for each material I test such as Ninjaflex, Semi-Flex, T-Glase, etc.
Edit: this has been the case with Cura 2.3 and 2.4.