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kmanstudios

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Everything posted by kmanstudios

  1. With the distance between the feeder and the nozzle, at the end of a spool, that would leave about 2 feet of filament waste. So, what do you do with the 'lost' filament in this case. I do some recycling back into 'cleaner filament' but that still leaves a lot of filament to be recycled or used somehow. PVA, I recycle no matter what, into slurry, so no issues there. Eventually, I want to recycle my filaments into new filament (By way of a good/pro level struder). But until the time I can afford such a beast, what do you good folk do with your waste? Thanks for the feedback/ideas
  2. Just a question about any plans to make a truly large format printer such as along the lines of a build area about (X) 16 inches x (Y) 16 inches by (Z) 24 inches? For future use I am looking at something that will require a large build area for parts that require printing in one large area for structural integrity.
  3. Nope. You're thinking of Carbon Fiber, I think. PC totally fine with a brass nozzle. And the latest firmware gives you the option to select PC as a material choice. ooohhhhhh....OK. Then I need to find information to distinguish the two. Duhhhhh...Thanks
  4. I thought the problem with printing with Polycarbonites was with the nozzles. It would chew up a brass nozzle.
  5. I am really loving my PETG materials. But I am a bit lost on whether it is mostly translucent or if there are solid colors. I am really liking the translucents. But it seems that most of what look for has a very limited translucent selection. But I have also read that PETG is mostly translucent anyway. So, brand and more information as this can be expensive hopping around just to see what is what. PS. T-Glase is printing like a dream on my UM3+. Due to nozzle size I do not get the 'clear look...yet....but it is strong and silky/satiny looking and light passes through.
  6. Version 1.0

    603 downloads

    Fractal based model that was copied out and flipped. Then did the merging in Cura to test limits. This is referenced in this thread: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/39753-2color-print-booleaned-in-cura-24. It was an experiment so I thought I would upload the model so that others can replicate it. Or not. I did this in Matterhackers PETG Pro series. But feel free to try any you want. I went with PETG to set things in Cura. But mostly because it would show if there were any Boolean errors. It did an amazing job of Boolean ops that would choke my Autodesk products.
  7. While most of my errors have come from doing the same, I have encountered it when I have had to stop a failed print and tried to just go back in and use the same file.
  8. I can get that, but were you mesmerized? I know I still am. Part of it also seeing the programming that underlies everything. The way the software 'solves' everything amazes me. I can program, but not at this level. There is real ingenuity in the solutions I am seeing.
  9. Just to add one more thing about Autodesk: Their 'free software' always seems to get cancelled and then rolled into a paid product. It would seem that Autodesk is using that free software as an open beta program to either test features or a way to check for future monetization byway of popularity and feedback from users. Since Autodesk and Adobe have not really been innovating for a long time, they are having to switch to the subscription model to make any money. To paraphrase the CFO of Autodesk at a shareholder meeting a few years back, "We are not selling upgrades or product for several
  10. OK, I get the manual leveling as a way to set a distance, equally on the main 3 points. But, here is where I am not sure of the purpose of Active Leveling: Since it went to 3 different points from manual leveling, I am assuming (and we know how dangerous that can be) that the active leveling is not setting distance but checking alignment from one nozzle to the other by way of using the 'touch build-plate glass' to check the comparative distance between nozzles. So, right? Wrong? Go get more coffee and clear those cobwebs manually?
  11. I take no umbrage as what you offered was good advice. Especially since I bill myself, here on this site, as the Clumsy Noob from the Nooberse. But sound advice it was I did think of another thing that is giving the look you mentioned. It was a fractal based shape and it does not perfectly align at junctures with some parts going a bit behind or in front of each other. But, I was so busy playing I did not think about getting a light source inside. I will have to drill out a hole to insert the light...LOL...duuuhhhhhhh But, it is quite the testament to how solid Cura can be.
  12. OK...just woke up with only a little sleep (print finished) and at least remembered to take the picture of the error message. Forgot all the other steps....duhhhhhh....will try again when it happens. But, here is the pic of the error message I get...basically nothing but a 'return' and the 'print symbol' with USB Drive lettering. Nothing else.
  13. I agree that making things with better intent is the way to go. But I tend to just try loopy things to see what software or hardware do in odd circumstances. What some people see as a flaw, I see as a different application. The "mixing" is a bit of an optical illusion and a bit not. For the most part, you are seeing through the model as it is translucent and you are seeing the joins and not overlaps. But the top and bottom did do a layer of red and then a layer of blue. It is thin walled and I am loving the experimental feature of hollow objects. And I am still impressed that it did this as
  14. This is a print that I made with two models in a 3D Package. They were not subtracted from each other. Being 2 color and no support, it does have strings and a few globs to clean out, but I thought it was interesting in that Cura did a good job making a nice boolean and still keeping the nozzle information at the same time. Coulda planned it a bit better, but for just slapping an idea together, I'm happy with the results. Filament is translucent red and blue Matterhackers Pro PETG. Most of the strings are from the nearly horizontal areas of the print as it built up the arches. The long strin
  15. While that sounds all noble, it prevents someone from developing personal work that could be private, forces someone to let hard work out for free and also allows others to monetize on free materials. I've seen that happen a lot. I have seen at least one model (BATMAN Bust) for sale at CG Trader and for free in another place. Either someone is selling something they got for free or someone paid for a model and released it, cutting the artist out of the equation. Either way, not good.Basically, if someone wants to release a model into the wild, that is their choice. But to make it mandatory mea
  16. I am moving away from Autodesk. They just are too big and slow. That and they just keep throwing new features (only to never improve on them) into nearly 30 year old architecture and the yearly upgrades are costing 50% of the full value. That and I hate the subscription model and need to be always hooked in. So, I am learning Blender and coupling that with 3D Coat. It's a wacky interface that is more remanent of Houdini than the Autodesk products, but they are actually more cutting edge than Autodesk. It will depend on your way of working as well as what you are attempting to do. There is no
  17. I second the 'not baby sitting' the machines. My goal is to be able to set it to work while I do other things. But, as a visitor from the noobverse, I get mesmerized by watching these things 'grow' layer by layer sometimes. Sorta reminds me of when I started doing my own 3D imagery using POV Ray almost 30 years ago. I would literally sit and watch it slowly draw line by line, surprising me that I had made the computer do that and it just happened.
  18. A quick way to test if it is a heat retention issue is follow Erin@Fbrc8's suggestion (and a few others, she was just the first to tell me). Just tape a bit of plastic or bubble wrap in front of the open area. I would not cover the entire thing as it would close off the top. This may contribute to a heat build up in the other direction.
  19. I looked at a lot of printers when I wanted to get my first one. I can tell you why I went with Ultimaker to start with: 1. It is a complete ecosystem that is still open source. By this I mean that it has its own filament system and profiles setup for that system. Makes it easier to learn on and then branch out. 2. I liked the mostly enclosed volume. 3. I am not crazy about the printers that move the bed as well as the print heads. That increases the footprint. That is a real concern in tiny Brooklyn Apartments, and I have one that is bigger than most. But by the time I put in my own dry bo
  20. That would be the proper spelling. I just did not check the first time and then decided I did like the misspelling. It is a fractal that I found winding through different types of fractals and playing with settings until I got something that caught my eye. I called it Humunculi because, to me, it looks a bit like a person with a smaller person inside. Not all homunculi were microscopic though. In some myths and stories, they were the 'familiars' to a sorcerer and were just small things to go out and spy and bring back information. There are variations on this depending on the source. Edi
  21. If you can rotate on the Z, then I would not know what is going on. But, I had a laptop just as you describe and it always gave me issues with clicking and dragging in one way or another. I had to be very careful.I am really lost on that though with your issues.
  22. My problem is that the print head collides with my hands. I think it is a speed issue with me. Usually though, I try to do the reaching or pausing when it's between nozzle changes and not on the print, but I still get nailed a few times and it kills the print. Remember that I am an old clumsy person and that makes a difference too. LOL
  23. Roger that. Good to know the restart does not wipe the log info. My prints are taking many hours and the error is intermittent. As soon as I have it, I will go through the steps and let you know what I find.
  24. This is a fractal I found (I don't know if you can 'make' a fractal deterministically). I used Incendia to make it. I am showing it because way back when I was studying Cura before getting the printer, I posted a screenshot and it was noted to be a difficult print. So, it came out fine and I credit the printer. If any of you have read the 'Noobverse' Posts, you will see just how much of a noob I really am. File render: Printed piece (painted) without flash: and with flash: Printed in Ultimaker Nylon (Transparent) and painted with a layer of Krylon base then oils and gold model paint
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