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Everything posted by kmanstudios

  1. I have had no real issues with printing with PVA on my UM3+. I have only used Matterhackers PVA and Ultimaker PVA and still quite the noob. But so far I have found my PVA works as expected (Well, as I expected) and I have also played with temps to try and cook it a bit or less to find ways to make it work. Most surfaces have no more issues in cleanliness where the PVA is and the general printer resolution used. My first PLA/PVA print printed flawlessly (second print ever). Or, I have lower expectations due to what I have received from external printing sources. That is one reason I am investi
  2. That is good to know. I just foresee a reason to go to this level at some point. I guess the biggest reason for the question was the specs listed have the 20 micron level listed, so I would think it would be a 'preset'. But, I guess that's what I get for trying to think. LOL I'll have to play with that whence I finish me filament tests. Thanks!!
  3. When I have gone there (The link you have posted) it just says "Latest..." How do you know which is the latest number vs what is on the machine?
  4. I have managed to tweak out a 0.04mm (40 microns) but cannot get a 0.02mm (20 microns) to come out right. I get all sorts of colored boxes. I will return to that once I finish playing with basic filaments and such to start to fine tune to that level when needed. BTW...I really did not see much difference (for my purposes so far) in the detail level. But I know it will come and will be trying to set that up.
  5. I have printed PETG just fine and like it very much. Still experimenting, but it does work. I started with the CPE profile because it had the closest temperature ranges.
  6. I agree. Very well done on all aspects. I'm actually going to use this as a way to get my electronics and programming skills jump started (never programmed Arduino, only games and that is not the same thing as I have to learn about boards and such) Great education all the way around and I can see ways that this will provide jumping off points.
  7. I am using a slurry from recycled PVA to coat my glass plate and have had no trouble with any peel ups or warping. But, I have no idea how the NinjaFlex compares. So many filaments to choose from to test. I haven't even finished testing all my filament types in the two months I have been printing, so I would be very interested to see your results.I am printing on the UM3+ so I have no idea how that compares to any other printer. It is my first printer, soooooo.....LOL
  8. I just dissolve most of the support in a container with all the other junk in it (priming tower, or birds next if the priming tower gets toppled) as well as the main model. Depending on the PVA used, it will vary on times. Once most of it has gone by the wayside, I then do a final cleaning/dissolving to get rid of the more difficult parts. Those right against the model, in crevices and such. Depending on the model, there can be a lot of just long supports that melt away, or get globby enough to just gently pull off. It will leave it against parts where there are crevices and such. Yep, when
  9. I have printed with the Nylon/PVA and it works like a charm with minimal effort on the user end. I have printed pieces that have hollows that need support as well as 90° overhangs and get good results. That would be using the 'Everywhere' option and not 'touching build plate' So far I have only used the Ultimaker Nylon but will soon try a third party brand.
  10. I have seen some posts about seeing an error while autoleveling: "Difference detected too great..." Here is what I noticed, if there is any oozing of material that is uneven, it will cause a misread because of the sensitivity of the detection system. I started making sure the nozzles are not oozing and clear from any leftover ooze from a previous print and it has cleared up the issue. I found this by way of having the error, then clearing the nozzles and re-did the autolevel and it all came out fine. Hope this helps as I keep finding goofy things from the noobverse.....
  11. I've been printing for a short time and having to do a lot of research and the glue was a subject that has a lot of solutions. My goofy tip is to recycle the PVA that you can into PVA slurry by just sticking all the bits into water, brush it on while you heat the bed, and it will make a nice, thin sheet of glue without the rough patches. Well, at least when I tried to get the glue stick down it always was rough. I don't even use the glue stick anymore and, well, you paid enough for the filament, put it towards savings Right now I have not tried this with the Ultimaker PVA (Thought of it as
  12. I have been experimenting a lot and still trying to dial in that sweet spot on all of this, but I am happy in my noobish attempts so far Thank you for the kind words.
  13. I think it is a good move. There are too many patent trolls and too many who think hard work (long hours, years of development and innovation) should be free. Being defensive does not block anybody in and does protect the hard work of the individuals who make things we like to play and work with. I have seen way too many resources that have been offered for free only to be put up for sale elsewhere. Time will tell how it is handled, but I can say I do approve and appreciate the need for it. A little too much jumping up and down about a positive move methinks in a few responses here. And, th
  14. Here are pics. The spider is not my model. Everything else is. This is where to find the spider...cool spider.... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1751722 EDIT!!!: The heart is not my model. It came from embodi.com and this is the link to it. Sheeesh...I should know better, eh? https://www.embodi3d.com/files/file/35-3d-printable-human-heart/ As an aside, I am recycling one of my test dinos for a diorama and is labeled as PLA. Pics: In order of squishiness-Natural is NinjaFlex, black is Ninja SemiFlex and Red is Cheetah.
  15. Just a quickie, I am using a lot of the Matterqackers PVA and still adjusting the temps to get that sweet spot of good temp without making little burn marks every now and then.
  16. Here is a link to the profiles I started with. I don't have pics yet, but I wanted to get this out as soon as I got home and a bit settled. Pics will come later. http://www.kmanstudios.com/NinjaProfiles.zip Edit: It has a model(s) I made to test fidelity. Feel free to disperse this crappy model(s) as you like. They are soooo radical in design LOL
  17. I will be providing my print profiles for NinjaFlex and Ninja SemiFlex as soon as I get back. Oh, and keep in mind I have not been printing for long and still quite noobish. So, what is successful on my untrained eyes may not be for you guys. Sometimes I feel like the youngun running into the kitchen to let Mom and Dad know I made a boom boom all by myself. LOL
  18. Ack!! I did not expect a reply so soon...I did add an edit about cheetah...Edit copied below so nobody has to search for it: Edit: I can say that Cheetah prints with the standard ABS settings with only an adjustment on the temps to recommended values. https://ninjatek.com/products/filaments/cheetah/ From printing guidelines: "Extruder Temperature: 230°C – 240°C" As an Aside, and non-flexible: Armadillo is amazing! Prints well....doing my first scanned body part to test. From Artec samples.
  19. More than pictures, maybe you could share the speed, settings etc. That might help more people:) Ohhh...youse guys want everything LOL I have to go meet a client soon. When I get back, I will try to get pics and the profiles together with it. Be aware that I am printing in 'primitive' conditions. Basement apartment in Brooklyn and it can get cold at times. I was thinking about this and I wonder if it being cooler in my room than suggested (generally about 65°F or around there) has something to do with the filament not giving me trouble. I will have something as soon as I can get it toge
  20. I've been printing with ninjaflex, Semi-Flex and cheetah with no problems. I'll try to get some pics if you're interested.
  21. Thank you very much for such a detailed tutorial! Really good stuff!
  22. The print was 18.6 Hr by estimation and I could swear it shaved an hour off...or the daylight savings change messed me up. Gonna be cold and tired for a few days until the blizzard is done and I adjust to the time change...grooooaaaaannnnnn....... I have not tried without the prime tower. The stringies are from where it was building the overhangs. And amazingly, few if any. Most of the 'rougher surface' was on the most bottom part of the fractal. A snip and sanding a bit did the job for me. The thing I am most amazed at is that it has gazillions of overhangs and still came out this clean. Th
  23. I am finding that the 'use towers' and 'conical support' to be helpful in limiting the amount of support needed. I have gone as low as 8% support amount with 10mm as the maximum width and 2mm the minimum width. It will tower out nicely to still make the 'cradle' that the print rests upon. Edit: I have also found it can compensate for 'Touching build plate only' rahter than always using 'everywhere'.
  24. 2.4 is better at the printer stopping with the priming tower with last color change. Actually, 2.4 is much better period.
  25. My first 2 Color Print with massive overhangs and no supports. A bit of cleanup required to remover a bit of underside strings, but really impressed. Settings in Cura 2.4 Basic Draft for PLA (Both Colors) 2 walls Hollowed out Make overhangs printable (65°) (found by doing overhang tests prints. 65° is where I found I get a decent bottom and top. Coasting enabled (Default settings) 0.1 expansion on both colors to make them overlap a bit and bond better. Tape dispenser for scale In me tiny hands Some Teacandle tests each 'lamp' printed with no support (single color only) Just thr
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