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kmanstudios

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Everything posted by kmanstudios

  1. This is a fractal I found (I don't know if you can 'make' a fractal deterministically). I used Incendia to make it. I am showing it because way back when I was studying Cura before getting the printer, I posted a screenshot and it was noted to be a difficult print. So, it came out fine and I credit the printer. If any of you have read the 'Noobverse' Posts, you will see just how much of a noob I really am. File render: Printed piece (painted) without flash: and with flash: Printed in Ultimaker Nylon (Transparent) and painted with a layer of Krylon base then oils and gold model paint to accent the ridges. Went for that old metal look....sorta.....
  2. Correct, if it cannot read / mount the usb drive, it would not be possible to dump logs. However, if you can dump logs, something really weird is happening, in which case the logs could help. Also, I'm curious to see, if after even an attempt of dumping the logs, the problem would be solved. Dumping the logs remounts the USB drive, and might make it visible again. I'll add that to my list of "Things to do" when it happens again. My errors are more intermittent than some here though. But, maybe it needs to be jump started by trying to dump the logs. Will let you know when it happens again.
  3. I know most of what this will say is just a lot of "Well, yeah...don't do that!" type of common sense, but it does merit at least a post of what NOT to do. And geared to the extreme noobs like me (I see a lot of "I just got my UM3" type of threads) and also for people like myself....just noobishness in general. When printing, do not stick your hand in to pull off a blemish or anything while it is running. It takes nothing at all to throw out the alignment. If you just have to reach in to do something, hit pause and then remove said blemish/string/whatever. I have tried to do it a few times, being impatient or thinking I am faster than the print head, and it ruins a print. Once the print is restarted, it seems to realign itself on the 'homing beacon', for lack of a better term and works fine. I got up this morning to check a print and thought I would just pull off a blob real quick.....bad idea. I knew it was messed up when it immediately started to not go to the switching station to lower/raise the nozzle properly and printed in the air. Like I said, it ruins your print, but will realign (so far) when you abort and it finds the homing area. But wow...a lot of hours wasted because I got impatient. >_<. Don't be me Duhhhhhhhhh.........
  4. I will have to say that you must click and drag ON the axis guides (RGB = XYZ) to rotate. If there is any distance from the cursor and the axis, it will not work. This can be problem in some displays such as small laptops and such. I've had to adjust the motions I use if I get onto different computers or screen resolutions.
  5. Instead of restarting, would taking the USB drive out, wait a few seconds, put it back in also fix the problem? Can you try with another USB drive and experience the same behavior? I have tried that and it made no difference. Even the display changes in the print mode. It only displays "Return" and the print symbol.As soon as it happens again, I will take a pic. But, I cannot dump logs if it cannot see the USB...yes? No? I am not WIFI'd or etherneted.
  6. I have made tiny little 'anchors' that are to hold the extreme ends down (Front of wrench and back of wrench in your case) and let the PVA be a simple support for long bridges. They are just boxes with a point on the end to minimize adhesion (easy to break off) while allowing for the anchor to sit firmly on the glass.
  7. +1 ! After every print (S3D on USB stick), I have to restart the UM3 ! Mine is more intermittent. I know it is a problem when I see that it only has the "Print symbol" when I go into the print mode on the UM3+.
  8. I have only had this happen (USB difficulties) since upgrading to this firmware version. I think there is a bit of a mismatch between Cura and the current firmware update that will be resolved (I hope, as this is just conjecture) when Cura 2.5 is released. One reason for this belief is that there are new features in the firmware that are being addressed in the new version, such as firmware can support CPE+ but 2.4 does not. There is also the strange move of the print-head that happens when it first primes the nozzle. Extruder 2 seems ok, but extruder 1 will move outward towards the print and then back up into the puddle it primed out and drag it around. Little things like that can have strange ripple effects throughout.
  9. I play with the settings in the PVA extruder to set things like stair step height to decrease time and waste as well as other settings like % of infill, % of support (I have gone as low as 8% support as the 'interface' between the support and model can still get what it needs). I enable towers and conical support to minimize amount until it is about to come into contact with the model. I've gotten some interesting spires and such doing this. I am learning which model types require more support for a cleaner bottom balanced against the materials I am experimenting with (PETG with PVA as a quick example). I am also finding that the printer does an excellent job of overhangs and bridging unless it is too extreme. I printed an overhang test (several) and found that it can handle up to 65° in angle and still have a decent bottom. If the bottom is hidden or not of import, I have pushed it to extremes beyond 65° (up to 85°). It's all in the torture tests. Here are a couple that will test your overhangs. And, make sure you test different filaments as they do behave differently. Some test not only overhangs, but are good for fine tuning detailed prints as well. Fidelity is just as important as ability to overhang or bridge in some cases. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40382 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1564848 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:704409 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1879347
  10. They don't work. They're just something you look at before choosing to completely ignore them. So true!! Being American, I keep forgetting that this is all metric and 85°C certainly ain't the same as 85°F. LOL Gonna have to steal that one!! <3
  11. I am a walking disaster area. FEMA has declared a mobile perimeter of Ten Feet (3M for the rest of the world) of which I am the epicenter. But, I do learn...LOL
  12. Great Link! I have tried a few, but started to move into my own models. And shape dependence is what I was thinking of. To clarify, I heated the PETG and T-Glase(both are working well on the same settings) up to 235 and slowed it down to 35 MM/S. That made the difference. Thanks!! And, thanks for reading between my poor communication skills. Edit: I also made the Layer height 0.22 and line width 0.4.....
  13. Should it need to be repeated for those like myself...know where the HOT PARTS ARE!!! It is called the HOT END for a reason LOL Gots millions of stories of slicing off the tips of my fingers from the old days of x-actos and metal straight edges and other life endangering exploits....huuurrrrmmmmm......
  14. The latest firmware has CPE+ now and it is supposed to be in the profiles in 2.5.
  15. If one were to factor how much the filament has moved by tracking the feeder movement, it could work like a retraction between layers or during changes. Yes? No? Over my head and too stoopid to know it?
  16. Scale has never affected my ability to transform the object(s) on my build-plate area.
  17. It is supposed to be fixed in 2.5. Until then, set your material flow to 0% and it cannot slice until you set it back. Bit of a kluge, but the next version clears that. But that is not a printing issue. It is a slicing issue. Just to be clear and not a nag. I am still learning too, so don't be offended
  18. Actually, I thought the question spoke well as a general idea (But I am an extreme doof in spoken communications), but here you go All prints were made without supports and using PVA as the brim. This is the basic cube test, clean as a whistle: This is an exterior using the same settings, Really 'crunchy' results: This is an interior of the same print, just as crunchy: This a reset of the material settings from the exterior (smooth as silk) And finally an interior shot with the adjusted settings: So, in general theory, there is a difference between straight line results from organic, swoopy contours. I just did not expect that. Could be material dependent as this was T-Glase and previous attempts that did not happen were with PLA or Nylon. I will have to replicate this model in Nylon specifically to see though if this is unique to this shape or just in general.
  19. I completely agree as each scenario you explore will be dependent on a few factors such as brand used and environmental conditions.It will be a completely personal choice requiring the exploration mentioned here.
  20. I think that would be the ultimate test. If you don't like it, nobody else will/why risk it?I have printed with NinjaFlex, Ninja SemiFlex and Cheetah and a smidgen of printing with Soft PLA. None of those had an oily feel to them, and I cannot say about the smell as I do not have a good sniffer. And frankly, have not put any of this stuff in my mouth.
  21. OK, I have printed a lot of cubes and cones and such. Do so for every material and type and degree of detail (draft, fine, etc) I am testing. Some materials I have tested, those settings apply across the board for each detail level, i.e. geometric objects as mentioned previously, as well as organic shapes with swoops and curvy angles and such. But, some of the materials, when printing the test objects do not do so well when going from geometric to organic. So, my noobishness makes me wonder if it is me, or the materials and is something to adjust for? Thanks
  22. There are many alternatives. Hairspray, PVA glues/slurry/gluestick, and some plastics don't need a sticky layer if the glass is cleaned and temped correctly. It's a lot of reading and asking LOL
  23. I would think that the heat would be more of an issue than anything else. Check your datasheets to see what temps are being listed. Since most are some sort of TPU or TPU like material, water resistance should not be a problem. PLA would not do well for that though. It is too soft when heated beyond skin temps.
  24. Just updated the firmware. Went to print and noticed that extruder 2 (PVA) worked as expected when putting down the initial puddle. But, when extruder 1 (Non-PVA) went into action, it, somehow, started outwards from the puddle, reversed course and ran the nozzle back through the puddle and dragged a glob around. Not good at all as I had to pause and pull it off and then let it resume.
  25. I have CPE+ and have gotten it to work with PVA. I'm fine tuning the settings as I try different methods to find a better sweet spot than I have accomplished so far. I'll let you know how it goes when I get through a buncha tests this weekend.I'm just waiting on a PETG and PVA print to finish. I'm approaching this like the nylon/PVA printing. But am finding some chemical incompatibilities. Brand related? I dunno.....
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