kmanstudios
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Posts posted by kmanstudios
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If one were to factor how much the filament has moved by tracking the feeder movement, it could work like a retraction between layers or during changes.
Yes? No? Over my head and too stoopid to know it?
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Scale has never affected my ability to transform the object(s) on my build-plate area.
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It is supposed to be fixed in 2.5. Until then, set your material flow to 0% and it cannot slice until you set it back. Bit of a kluge, but the next version clears that.
But that is not a printing issue. It is a slicing issue. Just to be clear and not a nag. I am still learning too, so don't be offended
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Actually, I thought the question spoke well as a general idea (But I am an extreme doof in spoken communications), but here you go
All prints were made without supports and using PVA as the brim.
This is the basic cube test, clean as a whistle:
This is an exterior using the same settings, Really 'crunchy' results:
This is an interior of the same print, just as crunchy:
This a reset of the material settings from the exterior (smooth as silk)
And finally an interior shot with the adjusted settings:
So, in general theory, there is a difference between straight line results from organic, swoopy contours. I just did not expect that. Could be material dependent as this was T-Glase and previous attempts that did not happen were with PLA or Nylon.
I will have to replicate this model in Nylon specifically to see though if this is unique to this shape or just in general.
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I completely agree as each scenario you explore will be dependent on a few factors such as brand used and environmental conditions.....But there's a Myriad of different techniques to get your print to stick & there's more than a few videos on the subject ...finding one you like is another story altogether : DIt will be a completely personal choice requiring the exploration mentioned here.
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I think that would be the ultimate test. If you don't like it, nobody else will/why risk it?I agree after print with the Ngen Flex last week it gives a smell but it also has a waxy oily feel to it and I would think twice before I put it in my Mouth.. I have made Living aids for people who cannot hold implements and use there mouths for daily living, I would feel uncomfortable producing something in Ngen Flex for them to use,, again this is me personally after Printing with the Material and feeling its tactile feel.
I have printed with NinjaFlex, Ninja SemiFlex and Cheetah and a smidgen of printing with Soft PLA. None of those had an oily feel to them, and I cannot say about the smell as I do not have a good sniffer. And frankly, have not put any of this stuff in my mouth.
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OK, I have printed a lot of cubes and cones and such. Do so for every material and type and degree of detail (draft, fine, etc) I am testing. Some materials I have tested, those settings apply across the board for each detail level, i.e. geometric objects as mentioned previously, as well as organic shapes with swoops and curvy angles and such.
But, some of the materials, when printing the test objects do not do so well when going from geometric to organic.
So, my noobishness makes me wonder if it is me, or the materials and is something to adjust for?
Thanks
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There are many alternatives. Hairspray, PVA glues/slurry/gluestick, and some plastics don't need a sticky layer if the glass is cleaned and temped correctly.
It's a lot of reading and asking LOL
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I would think that the heat would be more of an issue than anything else. Check your datasheets to see what temps are being listed.
Since most are some sort of TPU or TPU like material, water resistance should not be a problem.
PLA would not do well for that though. It is too soft when heated beyond skin temps.
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Just updated the firmware. Went to print and noticed that extruder 2 (PVA) worked as expected when putting down the initial puddle.
But, when extruder 1 (Non-PVA) went into action, it, somehow, started outwards from the puddle, reversed course and ran the nozzle back through the puddle and dragged a glob around.
Not good at all as I had to pause and pull it off and then let it resume.
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I have CPE+ and have gotten it to work with PVA. I'm fine tuning the settings as I try different methods to find a better sweet spot than I have accomplished so far. I'll let you know how it goes when I get through a buncha tests this weekend.Don't pin me down on it, but I believe CPE showed some potential to be used in combination with PVA.
I'm just waiting on a PETG and PVA print to finish.
I'm approaching this like the nylon/PVA printing. But am finding some chemical incompatibilities. Brand related? I dunno.....
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I am in the process of checking out filaments and have found out that some of the 'off brands' are good for a variety of things. Not everything has to be high end and is a waste of money for certain projects.
i.e.
Sometimes better to use pewter than full on silver but it has its own quality as well.
So, in my own weird way, I am agreeing with Krys above.
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I totally agree if something is going to be used orally for any length of time. Whilst I am still learning about how to read the data sheets, I too look for food safety ratings until I am better at understanding the nuances of materials and their data sheets.What you should look for, or ask yourself, is it still labeled as food safe after it has been 3D printed? (heated, molten, maybe even burnt, through a hot (dirty?) nozzle, layers in your 3D print).
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I have taken to exporting my material and print profiles via the configuration tab to create non-installation required backups. That way I can blow out the folder setup that Cura references and still reload (manually) the profiles.
However, Having the same OS would probably be required unless the data is stored in a form that is transportable (ASCII, etc).
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Thank you for digging that up. I started to find pertinent information on Page 6 of the PDF link.This is the MSDS for Ngen Flexhttp://ws.eastman.com/ProductCatalogApps/PageControllers/MSDS_PC.aspx?Product=71107028
It seems all safety issues are with the post processing or pre-processing of materials that create a dust from the material itself.
But nothing that says it is safe for using in the mouth or mucus membranes when solidified.
It is one of the best Data sheets I have seen, complete with testing parameters and such and not just results.
It is odd though that the link I posted is broken and took someone who knew more about the material and manufacturer to find this important information.
Thanks for the link!!
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Maybe have design flaws, but they are getting better and the 10 micron is not as important as the build area available.
And the ability to make solid structures from materials not cleared yet or just now getting spare parts (Specific nozzle amendments) that increase other capabilities such as the Fiber Glass, Kevlar, and Carbon Fiber materials I will have to use eventually.
But build area is really my biggest concern. And, the cost of a Raise 3D is worth it to find out and stress test a machine. There are others, but they are completely open and I'm not keen on that at all for a variety of reasons.
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Food safe materials are definitely the way to go as long as they meet your needs. Most of the things I am researching deal with contact with skin and trying to minimize the allergy issues.
Right now my motto is, "If it's food safe, it is skin safe." At least until I find out otherwise and not accounting for extra issues like very specific allergies. Not everything can be safe for everybody, but some things can be safe for a vast majority of people.
An example of general food safety would be your PET and PETG filaments as they are used in all sorts of products already and for the most part should be checked by filament for the Material Safety Data Sheets.
Edit: Here is an MSDS for NinjaSemiFlex that should give an idea what to look for. Please notice it does not say 'FoodSafe' though because that is a different thing altogether:
https://ninjatek.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/SDS-SemiFlex-rev0.pdf
And here is what you are looking for I have italicized a few areas to compare):
ACUTE TOXICITY:
IRRITATION/CORROSION:
Not likely to result in irritation in solid form. Thermal decomposition may result in release of toxic airborne contaminates which can be irritating to eyes, skin and respiratory tract.
SENSITIZATION:
The chemical structure does not suggest a sensitizing effect.
CHRONIC TOXICITY:
CARCINOGENICITY:
The chemical structure does not suggest a specific alert for such an effect.
REPEATED DOSE TOXICITY:
No known chronic effects.
GENOTOXICITY:
The chemical structure does not suggest a mutagenic effect.
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I dispense (squeeze) a small amount of liquid Elmer's White Glue, about the size of a dime, into a very small bowl or shot glass. Add a tablespoon or so of hot water and stir briskly. The resulting slurry is about the consistency of skim milk. Brush it on a cold bed with a 1" wide, "throw away" foam brush from the hardware store. Rinse the brush with hot water for future re-use. Works for several prints if print removal is done carefully from a cold bed.
That's a lot of what I read. But upon finding out that I did not have pay extra money, and use recycling instead of new packaging and extra money (though cheap, it is extra) for another product, I just use what I already have and plenty of it.
Kinda the 'whole buffalo' thing and not just using more things when I have plenty of supply. For instance....
I now have about a gallon of perfectly wonderful PVA slurry that is ready to be shaken, not stirred, and used at whim.
Bond...Buildplate Bond......---tee hee
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Due to buildplate size I would go for the Raise3D N2+ as it can go to 10 microns. Buildplate size offers the ability to print large, single prints for structural integrity (not on that level of detail, but just large) as well as small things. My reseasrch has been more towards medical/prosthetic applications where detail can become that important.
But, I like to push my equipment when I am learning. My motto is: I can't work it if I can't fix it and I can't fix it if I don't break it." LOL
And my poor UM3+ is getting a beating at my clumsy hands and it still keeps on keeping on despite my best efforts to destroy it.
Very, very robust machine indeed. -
I just checked and they do not have the Safety Data Sheet available. All filaments will or should have one to check such things as bio-compatibility.
Most things that are just coming into contact with tissue, especially mucous membranes, are more about what toxins are released through the material and not so much about sterilization as you can sterilize without heat (not the easiest way, but can be done).
I would check the data sheets on the filaments. Here is the link to the page that has the "non-working" link to the MSDS.
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Since all filaments I am testing are new to me, I have a question about Armadillo and Cheetah.
The good......prints easy.
The question: Upon printing Armadillo, I have found that it made a quite sturdy piece in one respect, but still more flexible than I would have thought. I ran a couple of models in both and it seems that Armadillo is not much, if any, stiffer than Cheetah.
And, when I compare a similar size print with something like ABS (yuck) and Armadillo, the ABS is much stiffer. I don't know if it is stronger as stiffness can mean brittleness. But it is more flexible than I would have thought.
I'm looking for more stiffness than I am getting. Is this the way it behaves?
I actually thought it could have been a mislabeled spool due to the consistencies of the filaments.
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I have had no real issues with printing with PVA on my UM3+. I have only used Matterhackers PVA and Ultimaker PVA and still quite the noob. But so far I have found my PVA works as expected (Well, as I expected) and I have also played with temps to try and cook it a bit or less to find ways to make it work. Most surfaces have no more issues in cleanliness where the PVA is and the general printer resolution used.
My first PLA/PVA print printed flawlessly (second print ever). Or, I have lower expectations due to what I have received from external printing sources. That is one reason I am investing in my own equipment. I am baffled by the lack of quality from some of the sources I have used compared to what I am getting with my short time on the machine.
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0.04 produces a lot better quality then 0.02.
if you use a smaller nozzle then you get a lot more detail. but then its had to control extrusion at such small rates.
Don't expect a profile for this. its something that you will just need to learn the advanced settings and how to best tweek them to get what you require.
That is good to know. I just foresee a reason to go to this level at some point. I guess the biggest reason for the question was the specs listed have the 20 micron level listed, so I would think it would be a 'preset'. But, I guess that's what I get for trying to think. LOL
I'll have to play with that whence I finish me filament tests.
Thanks!!
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When I have gone there (The link you have posted) it just says "Latest..."
How do you know which is the latest number vs what is on the machine?
Very, very robust machine indeed.
Can't find the profile for CPE+
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
The latest firmware has CPE+ now and it is supposed to be in the profiles in 2.5.