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Everything posted by kmanstudios

  1. I think it is a good move. There are too many patent trolls and too many who think hard work (long hours, years of development and innovation) should be free. Being defensive does not block anybody in and does protect the hard work of the individuals who make things we like to play and work with. I have seen way too many resources that have been offered for free only to be put up for sale elsewhere. Time will tell how it is handled, but I can say I do approve and appreciate the need for it. A little too much jumping up and down about a positive move methinks in a few responses here. And, there is way too much theft in the industry across the board. I was contacted by CGTrader to sell models. When I mentioned one of their models was found on another site for free, I heard nothing back from them. And, I have archived the emails in case someone wants to dispute this. Basically they are either selling free work, or someone bought it and set if free in the wild. What was disturbing was that once this was pointed out, I never heard from them again. We used to get paid for our work but somewhere, too many people decided everything was for free if it was on the internet. A lot of potential to make money, but a lot of risk too.
  2. Here are pics. The spider is not my model. Everything else is. This is where to find the spider...cool spider.... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1751722 EDIT!!!: The heart is not my model. It came from embodi.com and this is the link to it. Sheeesh...I should know better, eh? https://www.embodi3d.com/files/file/35-3d-printable-human-heart/ As an aside, I am recycling one of my test dinos for a diorama and is labeled as PLA. Pics: In order of squishiness-Natural is NinjaFlex, black is Ninja SemiFlex and Red is Cheetah.
  3. Just a quickie, I am using a lot of the Matterqackers PVA and still adjusting the temps to get that sweet spot of good temp without making little burn marks every now and then.
  4. Here is a link to the profiles I started with. I don't have pics yet, but I wanted to get this out as soon as I got home and a bit settled. Pics will come later. http://www.kmanstudios.com/NinjaProfiles.zip Edit: It has a model(s) I made to test fidelity. Feel free to disperse this crappy model(s) as you like. They are soooo radical in design LOL
  5. I will be providing my print profiles for NinjaFlex and Ninja SemiFlex as soon as I get back. Oh, and keep in mind I have not been printing for long and still quite noobish. So, what is successful on my untrained eyes may not be for you guys. Sometimes I feel like the youngun running into the kitchen to let Mom and Dad know I made a boom boom all by myself. LOL
  6. Ack!! I did not expect a reply so soon...I did add an edit about cheetah...Edit copied below so nobody has to search for it: Edit: I can say that Cheetah prints with the standard ABS settings with only an adjustment on the temps to recommended values. https://ninjatek.com/products/filaments/cheetah/ From printing guidelines: "Extruder Temperature: 230°C – 240°C" As an Aside, and non-flexible: Armadillo is amazing! Prints well....doing my first scanned body part to test. From Artec samples.
  7. More than pictures, maybe you could share the speed, settings etc. That might help more people:) Ohhh...youse guys want everything LOL I have to go meet a client soon. When I get back, I will try to get pics and the profiles together with it. Be aware that I am printing in 'primitive' conditions. Basement apartment in Brooklyn and it can get cold at times. I was thinking about this and I wonder if it being cooler in my room than suggested (generally about 65°F or around there) has something to do with the filament not giving me trouble. I will have something as soon as I can get it together when I get back. I have been able to make what I call soft locks (Ball and socket with flexible materials) that can be put together and taken apart without breaking as well as my test dino that I made for a variety of reasons. Edit: I can say that Cheetah prints with the standard ABS settings with only an adjustment on the temps to recommended values. https://ninjatek.com/products/filaments/cheetah/ From printing guidelines: "Extruder Temperature: 230°C – 240°C"
  8. I've been printing with ninjaflex, Semi-Flex and cheetah with no problems. I'll try to get some pics if you're interested.
  9. Thank you very much for such a detailed tutorial! Really good stuff!
  10. The print was 18.6 Hr by estimation and I could swear it shaved an hour off...or the daylight savings change messed me up. Gonna be cold and tired for a few days until the blizzard is done and I adjust to the time change...grooooaaaaannnnnn....... I have not tried without the prime tower. The stringies are from where it was building the overhangs. And amazingly, few if any. Most of the 'rougher surface' was on the most bottom part of the fractal. A snip and sanding a bit did the job for me. The thing I am most amazed at is that it has gazillions of overhangs and still came out this clean. The 'petals' of the fractal are smooth as can be. I'll probably try without the prime tower and use the ooze shield. I will be remaking/revising it to make an LED Lamp some time in the future. When I am not experimenting with materials and such. Had it for two months and all I've done is print a bunch of cubes, some old files and interlocking ball and socket test pieces. Been also painting and testing finishes. For instance, I have decided I am not a fan of ABS for a variety of reasons. For my goals, just too brittle. But I do love the PLA and nylons. NinjaTek's products (Semi-flex, flex, cheetah) are giving me no issues other than finding the sweet spot in temps. Gonna be trying armadillo soon to see how it compares to ABS in strength and hopefully not as brittle. This machine is the perfect learning tool. Compensates enough for this clumsy noob and STILL allows for playing around.
  11. I am finding that the 'use towers' and 'conical support' to be helpful in limiting the amount of support needed. I have gone as low as 8% support amount with 10mm as the maximum width and 2mm the minimum width. It will tower out nicely to still make the 'cradle' that the print rests upon. Edit: I have also found it can compensate for 'Touching build plate only' rahter than always using 'everywhere'.
  12. 2.4 is better at the printer stopping with the priming tower with last color change. Actually, 2.4 is much better period.
  13. My first 2 Color Print with massive overhangs and no supports. A bit of cleanup required to remover a bit of underside strings, but really impressed. Settings in Cura 2.4 Basic Draft for PLA (Both Colors) 2 walls Hollowed out Make overhangs printable (65°) (found by doing overhang tests prints. 65° is where I found I get a decent bottom and top. Coasting enabled (Default settings) 0.1 expansion on both colors to make them overlap a bit and bond better. Tape dispenser for scale In me tiny hands Some Teacandle tests each 'lamp' printed with no support (single color only) Just throwing them in to save multiple posts Still greatly in the newbie phase, but the machine is very robust and compensates a lot for this clumsy noob.
  14. Hi Eric, one reason is probably that there's not such a thing like "UM3-Extended - Error 12C". I assume, that you have to be a bit more precise, if you want useful hints from the community... Where have you bought your printer? Your reseller should be able to forward you to a trained person who can sort this out (together with you). Yeah, well, if they want a better error report, they should get off a dotmatrix style readout. Seriously lower case i and 1 look almost the same. I've said it before and will say it again, for such a high end machine, to be using basic FAT32 and dotmatrix readout twirly thing, blah, blah, blah is really strange.
  15. And to further update this: It was an i2C error... not a 12C error. Some of these fonts look alike on that dinky screen. Got in touch with fbrc8 support and they got me working well again...so far. Here is the page they linked me too. I only had to do steps 4 & 5. The connector had worked loose a bit. That doesn't bother me as I am old enough to remember when you actually picked up your computer about and inch and dropped it to help reseat the chips.....yes, that was a thing in those days. So far, it has not errored out as before. If you get the error, check this link: https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000062743-Disconnecting-the-Printhead-UM3-UM3X- and make sure to check with support to avoid voiding the warranty. So, it was the connectors so far. Will update only if information is warranted for the community.
  16. This is an update. I called Matterhackers and they clarified a few things. 1. The machine does not load into RAM and then execute. It is constantly using the USB to print from (constant communication). 2. Though this may be old news to the experienced, but I have never used a computer based piece of equipment that required constant communication like this. All previous computer equipment ran on RAM until it had to resort to read/write operations. Well, not on anything 'modern.' 3. This will burn out USB devices. They are great transfer devices, but not constant work drives. 4. Can only read FAT32? Seriously? This is a great disappointment in many ways as I did not and will not run from my computer or wifi. So, switched the USB and will see if it is the drive or the USB itself. Will post as I find more information.
  17. Bump...Seriously? Nobody has a clue or will answer? I contacted Ultimaker about another issue a month or so back and they say to post here. I post here and nothing. This is becoming more common. I even rebooted the machine BEFORE I started a print and 3 outlines in, it dies with the error. I love the machine, but not if I can't count on it or information.
  18. Here is something I just found. I was looking for information myself. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/34784-best-settings-for-support-structures It's a nice thread, especially if you are making your own models.
  19. For some reason, I am getting this error. Happened once last week, but now it has happened twice in less than 6 hours on different prints. One was 2/3 through a 32 hour print and this last one was about 1 hour in, with one print in between. I dumped logs from the printer. Where to send them? No Wifi or Ethernet. Just USB interface. Thanks, Eric
  20. I am new to this, so I am not sure where the answer may be. But I noticed on a print I am doing right now that the nozzle goes to the prime tower at every layer whether it is changing nozzles or not. Got a bunch of layers on top of the supports, and nothing but one material left, but it still goes to the prime tower at every level. A big waste of time and filament. Am I missing something? I did just download 2.4 beta...in there maybe?
  21. Hey there. Got my Ultimaker 3 extended about 2.5 weeks ago. Didn't touch it as I was busy and distracted until last Saturday. Been having a blast. It has been fun. This machine is cool and forgiving. Clumsy..see? But, I am playing around and just having fun. It's been running for the last week now and any issues have been user error and well...a noob. But, I am getting prints out and even got NinjaTek Semiflex to print decently. Well, to my inexperience I am happy. Soooo much fun to learn!! The Allosaurus model is mine. I have been playing with downloaded files too. The PLA Dino is printed at normal with a length of 6". The SemiFlex was printed in Draft mode. Man that Semiflex is BLACK!!! Hard to photograph. >_< Been playing with hard lock ball and socket joints, soft lock with the semiflex and just having a ball! Wheeeee! Been doing that thing where you just keep fiddling with it. Learned a lot of stupid things like keep your hands out of the build area when running...pause instead if you gotta play in the area. Duhhhhh..... Great Machine Gotta build a dry box feeder. Wow the PVA is popping and such. But still only a week in. Time is on my side, I hope.
  22. That appears to have done it. I never would have thought to look there. Kinda the problem with help files. If you don't know what to search for, you can get lost. Thanks!!
  23. I can;t find a way to stop Cura from moving around the viewport as I adjust models. It's like it's moving around on its own and it makes me a bit sea sick. Also, when I set a view to manipulate, I'd like it to stay there. Can't find anything on this.
  24. @Berndjm-----I had to take off all the mesh fixes to get it to work. But, if you're setting it up in right in your 3D Package, no need for them, eh? @IRobertI-----I'm just testing out things right now. Since I can't get the printer until December, I'm setting up files to see what it does when it gets here. And, also apparently learning about the software too! LOL But I have a few projects that I want to try and see just how far I can push it. Besides, it's a Fractal.....it supposed to look 'off' a bit anyway Thanks for the suggestion about the mesh fixes.
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