kmanstudios

Then perhaps you have not had the PVA clog in the middle of a long print?

Are not the speeds for infill a bit high on average? Maybe try slowing them down a bit.

Just Some goofy lamp shades I made a while back. I could go in and trim a few stragglies....

Then it should be doing as you asked: Infill is one material and walls another. The walls have several settings. The percentage thing I would have to look at.

It does this. Do you have these settings unhidden?

User control is most appreciated firmware or software.

As I said, it is a corrugated grid, and yeah, you would definitely have to use something low viscosity.

Think of it as a corrugated grid. It is open on one direction and will not be open on another. I am thinking with very careful angling of the infill, you could fill enough voids to pour something into. But, you really have to look at it. Something like the areas where it was noticeable on my 'dancer' print, it would not be possible to use because of the thinness.

Just thicken the areas that are slicing as holes in the model itself. Walls need to be at least 1.5 (really low end) to 2 times the width of the nozzle to be properly recognized.

Looks like the walls are too thin.

Sometimes a user may be pulling in things from disparate sources or positioning. Here is a good example. So, to maximize space, it is good to take all these pieces from this type of source, without making a separate file, and gang them up for printing. I spend a good bit of time circling around the buildplate to make sure they do not interpenetrate. I do have it set to not avoid models' bounding box so I can fill voids when needed or possible.

I would support this as it is just a visual interface. Now, programmers, do not get on my case about the term "Just a....." I am not referring to ease of programming. But just the visual aspect of being able to much more precisely place objects. This would not be adding engineering functionality which would be a whole different animal and very difficult to do.

The gyroid forms a closed pattern.

Now that you mention it..... Duhhhh, silly me. Good catch mate 🙂 After?

Set bottom Layers to 0?

Very nice! :)

I am tagging @geert_2 since, if I remember correctly, has experience with this.

OkeeDokee. Mold making can be tricky in some cases. I wanted to make sure that was the case before I went nuts replying. I really suggest you do real research (Youtube is great in this case) to see some of those issues that I see no matter how you turn it. This thing has tons of what is called 'undercuts' that would require multi-part mold. And then techniques such as printing a positive and then casting a soft material such as soft silicon in/around it to make the final negative to cast your soap. And, then, depending on aesthetics, there are things that you can do to ease that pain. And, then, what modeling program would you want to work in. In this case I would avoid any engineering Programs as this model is organic in nature. Volumetrics would be ideal if you are just slicing up an already made model such as the bulldog. Volumetrics are just blindingly fast. Blender actually gives you both Mesh modeling with a lot of tools and volumetrics too. In a way, the best of both worlds.

Why is that link to a sample of a bulldog? Is the soap to look like the bulldog?

That is nice :)

👍

Ahhhh, sketchup bites another person in the patootie. Glad you got it sussed out :)

Yeah, that model is seriously messed up. Here is what 3DS Max's STL checker says: 1,425 errors and they are all Open edges. That would be what is call a non-manifold object. Cura is attempting to close the holes by connecting those open edges. I am going to venture that this model was made in sketchup. Or even downloaded. Keep in mind that while downloaded models are free, they are messed up many times. If you made it, I would suggest a program that would create a watertight or manifold object. All edges welded and all vertices welded.

Looking at the video, I will have to echo this comment. You can hear the motors trying to still get the filament to move at full load speed when it has already entered the nozzle. You can see it slow down as it grinds a bit. The biggest problem with this is that while it may still feed, the grinding will create parts of the filament that are pushed outwards and create filament friction from even the smallest amount that increased the effective diameter. And, even if you do not load it far enough to engage the nozzle fully when the motor slows down to 'feeding speed', just flip the lever open and manually feed it into the nozzle and then flip the lever closed again. This will let the feeder work as intended. As for it working up to this point, you may have just gotten lucky. I know that has happened to me a lot on new operations and it is frustrating. Also, flattening on one direction will force out the perpendicular direction as it will still want to keep the overall volume. It is not always the grinding, but usually is as well.

The pens you linked to look good. I would try to guestimate the comfort of the build from the pics. 3Doodler is a brand name and not to be confused when other pens use terms like '3D Doodler'. 3Doodler is the brand that only uses the straight filament. As for filaments, well any 1.75, coiled or not, from any source will work.