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kmanstudios

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Everything posted by kmanstudios

  1. I concur. Having looked at many models here to help, this type of issue is as @Smithy said percentage wise. I would go as far as to say 100% 😆
  2. 😂 Me too.... If I am reading this right, the moire pattern is a result of the pixel resolution of the screen attempting to display the really tight lines in the preview. I imagine they go away once you zoom in. Now the print; are the lines matching up to the internal support structure? They remind me of leaf veins. Seams would not do that. Seams make straight lines.
  3. I stopped using priming towers after about my first 8 months. If you are having issues with your PVA (and yeah, it is a pain to print with) you should evaluate your room humidity levels. That is the biggest issue when printing with PVA. And minimize retractions to say about 10 or 12.
  4. I did notice, That is why I was so surprised that the model was spot on for 3D printing. But I have no idea beyond the model itself. Basically, the rest is up to someone who is more technically adept than I.
  5. Nope 😆 'Tis not I. It has been there since at least Cura 2.something when I first got started. Just a difference in needs or wants. Anytime I do something that has to be accurate, I would never use it. But, I make mostly silly little things, so occasionally it helps. And, if I missed a joke, Sometimes, I just do not get them. Sorry if I did 🙂
  6. It is off by default. So, somebody experimented and forgot the setting was on. I have found it wise to change settings one at a time and check results in the sliced preview. That could save people from silly things happening. 😉 I say this as the guy that changes settings like mad all the time.
  7. Your model is fine, I ran a check on it and there are no errors there. Then I ran it through my Cura (4.4) setup for my S5. Came out perfectly with none of the artifacting you see in your sliced image. I would be inclined to think it may have to do with either the version (I have seen issues with 4.8) or the setup for the printer type you are using. Saving the file out as a project file (.3mf) will let people see it the same way you see it as it will bring the model, printer type and settings into anybody's Cura.
  8. I have used it several times in my prints if I have a tiny area that would look bad without a continuous surface to buttress it without supports.
  9. So, I wanted to test out the Black 2.0 and Black 3.0 from Stuart Simple. While I have not been able to get that 'void look' as it is shown, but I can say they are the blackest Paint I have experienced. Black 2.0 is a black matte, but Black 3.0 has a 'velvety type of appearance. This was primed with Black matte spray paint. The Black 2.0 was painted over the Bat Symbol and cape up to ears. When Dried, I put Black 3.0 on the neck, face and cowl. This is Black Primed and then Black 3.0 on top. You can see the difference between the two areas (Black 3.0 and just
  10. Since nobody asked, I thought I would share a few things I have picked up. As I try new things I will probably tack it onto the end of this. My hope is that some of you find this instructive and I will point you to a variety of sources that I pulled information from. For the most part, I prime my prints with a black matte and then sometimes I mist white onto the print to help illuminate shape. I also am not a representative of any paints that I talk about. Just things I have played with. First, why I think things like the Polyalchemy style of 'silky looking' prints, and why I also
  11. I feel for you as it is not just the settings, but the basic philosophical approach on how the programs differ or slight nomenclature differences. Good luck!! 🙂
  12. I took a look at the file. The first thing I noticed was the scaling of the object. The object had an actual size of about 0.25mm in height. you can see the amount of automatic scaling on the object. And, it came in at the floor of the virtual baseplate. I do uncheck the auto-drop to plate in my basic setup. I am also still on Cura 4.4. No other reason than it is working for me right now and I am still re-learning the software as a whole. I then ran it through 3DS MAX and did an STL Check and it came out ok. So, no errant vertices or polygons floating out in space. I have eva
  13. It gave me time to think of the paints I wanted to use to get a certain look to the piece. Thanks! 🙂
  14. This took 23.5 days to print the base and another 2 days to print the female figure. For the second time.....The first time the fingers did not print well. This whole print used almost 2KG of material, so it feels like it has some heft. The design came about when I found a few Ziegfeld Follies girls. It became this; pseudo-art deco influenced fractals and practical modeling. Other view directions of the full piece. I used a variety of paints on this whole thing. I also tried out a couple of Stuart Semple's products. The hair w
  15. I understand what you mean. It is a thought fraught with choices and each one has its own consequences. @flowalistik is probably the most pilfered from artist out there. There is a scan of the Batman that was from a licensed bust (you can actually see it in the comic book store on the tv show "The Big Bang Theory) that was at one time for sale as original art (as opposed to being a scan). This person also tried to sell the Scanned Superman Bust as well. Then the Batman scan was made available for free on Thingiverse. Note that I have downloaded a few models and printed
  16. Start off 'small.' By this, print some non-complex things with a couple of materials to start with. Right now, I like the PLA and TPLA: Easy to print with and does not need much oversight. I printed a series of cubes with different infills and such to play with and watch how it all works. Also try printing things like these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:704409 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2806295 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865 These will let you know what your overhang angles will print well as well as give you hollow shapes.
  17. Go to "Preferences" and open "Configure Cura" and uncheck "Automatically drop models to the buildplate." Then you will be able to move the object below the buildplate. Just remember to compensate for the amount lowered.
  18. @gr5 has an awesome vid to look at concerning bed adhesion and such. I tagged him here so he can post the link directly.
  19. Gotta tell ya, most people will do that because they do not know where to begin. I remember when I first started here, I was using Cura before I got the printer to get familiar with the base process (even tried Simplify 3D, slicer, etc and just stayed with Cura. But even though I had spent that time preparing, it is so easy to miss many things. Basically, I agree and just roll with it because I had to ask questions (stupid ones just because I did not make a connection to certain things) and was nice to get an answer from someone to shortcut the confusion. 👍 Yep an
  20. If you take a look, your slice looks different than his slice. What difference did you make other than turning it upside down? Oh, and the upper left hand side does not seem to have any support in the hole there as it does in the other three holes.
  21. Yep, that is why I sliced the files for the OP instead of making the OP search for an old version and made clear that the difference in versions needs to be evaluated. I hope this does go into the Cura data for fixes.
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