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kmanstudios

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Posts posted by kmanstudios

  1. This took 23.5 days to print the base and another 2 days to print the female figure. For the second time.....The first time the fingers did not print well. This whole print used almost 2KG of material, so it feels like it has some heft. The design came about when I found a few Ziegfeld Follies girls. It became this; pseudo-art deco influenced fractals and practical modeling.

     

    BirthOfVenus_Paint_01.thumb.jpg.a8ddfde7de48ac45df8301c5f9afe53f.jpg

     

    Other view directions of the full piece.

    BirthOfVenus_Paint_02.thumb.jpg.1df7dd610176de59cc829b246f9d559b.jpg

     

    BirthOfVenus_Paint_03.thumb.jpg.d31a6793fe7badf8e3c20fda86096724.jpg

    I used a variety of paints on this whole thing. I also tried out a couple of Stuart Semple's products.

     

     

    The hair was done using (ultimately)liquitex heavy body paints and the pearl topcoat (UnicornMilk is the paint's name).

    It mixed nicely with the liquitex paints and gave me this nice abalone look in the hair.

    BirthOfVenus_AbaloneEffectHair.thumb.jpg.7aa9c4691bd760664f71fa50078c3e52.jpg

     

    The fingers came out nicely on the second print. The first print I did some Stuart Semple Paint tests on the first print. I always test on scrap materials. 🙂BirthOfVenus_Fingers_ok.thumb.jpg.0a752ad0d0c97ee8c111d9e59fdd7478.jpg

    • Like 8
  2. I understand what you mean. It is a thought fraught with choices and each one has its own consequences. @flowalistik is probably the most pilfered from artist out there.

     

    There is a scan of the Batman that was from a licensed bust (you can actually see it in the comic book store on the tv show "The Big Bang Theory) that was at one time for sale as original art (as opposed to being a scan). This person also tried to sell the Scanned Superman Bust as well. Then the Batman scan was made available for free on Thingiverse.

     

    Note that I have downloaded a few models and printed them for myself or as gifts. But I posted them as makes and believe me when I say these were spot on models. But, I could not and would not sell them.

  3. Start off 'small.' By this, print some non-complex things with a couple of materials to start with. Right now, I like the PLA and TPLA: Easy to print with and does not need much oversight.

     

    I printed a series of cubes with different infills and such to play with and watch how it all works. Also try printing things like these:

    These will let you know what your overhang angles will print well as well as give you hollow shapes.

  4. 10 minutes ago, GregValiant said:

    Then those new printer owners start downloading poor STL files from Thingiverse or someplace. 

    That is so very true.

     

    11 minutes ago, GregValiant said:

    including some random slicer (ahem!) that they downloaded for free.

    😂

  5. On 12/13/2020 at 8:50 PM, GregValiant said:

    They aren't going to look at "Cura Settings Explained", they are just going to post a question that could have been searched for and the answer found. 

    Gotta tell ya, most people will do that because they do not know where to begin. I remember when I first started here, I was using Cura before I got the printer to get familiar with the base process (even tried Simplify 3D, slicer, etc and just stayed with Cura. But even though I had spent that time preparing, it is so easy to miss many things. Basically, I agree and just roll with it because I had to ask questions (stupid ones just because I did not make a connection to certain things) and was nice to get an answer from someone to shortcut the confusion.

     

    On 12/13/2020 at 8:50 PM, GregValiant said:

    It's already on your calendar...Christmas day...about 4 hours after they open that big box with the Chinese writing on it.  And some of them will be potential Ultimaker customers down the road a bit.

    👍

     

    On 12/13/2020 at 8:50 PM, GregValiant said:

    A sticky thread of how to get started might be a good idea.

    Yep and with provided samples to slice so that a comparison to what should be expected to what they get in their first attempts? 

  6. OK, here are a few files to see if everything is ok for you. Keep in mind that I have not upgraded beyond Cura 4.4. So if there is a bug in the version you are using, I have supplied additional files for you. Here is the sliced image from my system. No support in the holes. Since you have it set for the S5 I just hit slice. I made no changes to your file in anyway. The only difference is the version of Cura.

     

    ScreenCap.thumb.jpg.f4ee466953071a2884855fba681e728a.jpg

     

    1st is the .3mf file from my system. Now, I am not sure this will help since the file may not slice the same way on a newer version.

    1333205824_UMS5_part3_model_r_0(1)(1)_Cura4-4.3mf

     

    Now, just in case that will not slice like I saw it on my system, here is a .UFP file for you:

    UMS5_1333205824_UMS5_part3_model_r_0(1)(1).ufp 

    I left the way it puts the UMS5 on front to much more easily differentiate by name (keep your files from being overwritten).

     

    And, just in case that fails, here is the GCode file:

    UMS5_1333205824_UMS5_part3_model_r_0(1)(1).gcode

     

    Now, the reason I have not upgraded as I just recently got back online after almost a year of being offline. And I am seeing some reports of bugs (of which you seem to have one found here in your initial post). So, I am sticking with what I know for now.

     

    Hope this helps 🙂

  7. 20 minutes ago, geert_2 said:

    For sealing seams, maybe you could also make your own custom gaskets? Print a mould, and pour silicone in it, the kind of silicone that is used for, well, mould-making. Be sure to smooth the layer-lines of the mould, otherwise removal of the silicone will be difficult. Silicones come in various hardnesses, from flesh-like up to tire-like.

    That would be the 'have to do everything' approach 😂

     

    I am not that good 😉

  8. As @GregValiant noted, there were parts of the model floating about. That created the shadow profile. You can see the parts here:

    StrayParts.thumb.png.6f638d01b528f7bab2fe9ac8092ad712.png

     

    But there are a couple of other parts to this that make this a not so good model. First off, it has multiple parts to this instead of being one cohesive mesh. This is the first piece I found that was separate from the main mesh:

    2SeparateParts.thumb.png.50120af85cc4d8d5a483bfd38c24a849.png

     

    When I deleted that, I still found another piece just floating over the main model:

    YetAnotherPart.thumb.png.fbff5ef54360caff23436d51ed87f85d.png

     

    Once that final piece was deleted, the model was a single mesh and watertight. I do not know Fusion, but this is a list of the problems the final model had. And, yeah, it was a huge scale.

    1. Use what you are comfortable with and....
    2. slowly dabble in new materials that are available in the width that works for your system.

    Also depends on what is available to you by way of outside sales.

  9. I gotta tell you, that simple answer gave me the best "follow the link" set of information I have had in a long while. 🙂

    Found the paints and saw some really cool stuff as a result. Found a great tutorial on how to use it, found YOUR really great review of products 🙂 I now know what I need to save up for (besides filament LOL) with the very interesting paints he has made.

     

    Really had to laugh at the way he got to making some of his pigments in respect to Anish Kapoor's shenanigans.

     

    Have you tried to 'tint' the chrome so you can get some nice  colored 'chrome' (like a shiny Christmas ornaments)?

     

    Also, did you smooth it first or was just a really good print you painted?

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