kmanstudios
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Posts posted by kmanstudios
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I understand what you mean. It is a thought fraught with choices and each one has its own consequences. @flowalistik is probably the most pilfered from artist out there.
There is a scan of the Batman that was from a licensed bust (you can actually see it in the comic book store on the tv show "The Big Bang Theory) that was at one time for sale as original art (as opposed to being a scan). This person also tried to sell the Scanned Superman Bust as well. Then the Batman scan was made available for free on Thingiverse.
Note that I have downloaded a few models and printed them for myself or as gifts. But I posted them as makes and believe me when I say these were spot on models. But, I could not and would not sell them.
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Start off 'small.' By this, print some non-complex things with a couple of materials to start with. Right now, I like the PLA and TPLA: Easy to print with and does not need much oversight.
I printed a series of cubes with different infills and such to play with and watch how it all works. Also try printing things like these:
- https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:704409
- https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2806295
- https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865
These will let you know what your overhang angles will print well as well as give you hollow shapes.
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Go to "Preferences" and open "Configure Cura" and uncheck "Automatically drop models to the buildplate." Then you will be able to move the object below the buildplate. Just remember to compensate for the amount lowered.
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@gr5 has an awesome vid to look at concerning bed adhesion and such. I tagged him here so he can post the link directly.
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Howdy :)
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10 minutes ago, GregValiant said:
Then those new printer owners start downloading poor STL files from Thingiverse or someplace.
That is so very true.
11 minutes ago, GregValiant said:including some random slicer (ahem!) that they downloaded for free.
😂
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Thank you for the clarity ♥️
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On 12/13/2020 at 8:50 PM, GregValiant said:
They aren't going to look at "Cura Settings Explained", they are just going to post a question that could have been searched for and the answer found.
Gotta tell ya, most people will do that because they do not know where to begin. I remember when I first started here, I was using Cura before I got the printer to get familiar with the base process (even tried Simplify 3D, slicer, etc and just stayed with Cura. But even though I had spent that time preparing, it is so easy to miss many things. Basically, I agree and just roll with it because I had to ask questions (stupid ones just because I did not make a connection to certain things) and was nice to get an answer from someone to shortcut the confusion.
On 12/13/2020 at 8:50 PM, GregValiant said:It's already on your calendar...Christmas day...about 4 hours after they open that big box with the Chinese writing on it. And some of them will be potential Ultimaker customers down the road a bit.
👍
On 12/13/2020 at 8:50 PM, GregValiant said:A sticky thread of how to get started might be a good idea.
Yep and with provided samples to slice so that a comparison to what should be expected to what they get in their first attempts?
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If you take a look, your slice looks different than his slice. What difference did you make other than turning it upside down?
Oh, and the upper left hand side does not seem to have any support in the hole there as it does in the other three holes.
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Yep, that is why I sliced the files for the OP instead of making the OP search for an old version and made clear that the difference in versions needs to be evaluated.
I hope this does go into the Cura data for fixes.
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OK, here are a few files to see if everything is ok for you. Keep in mind that I have not upgraded beyond Cura 4.4. So if there is a bug in the version you are using, I have supplied additional files for you. Here is the sliced image from my system. No support in the holes. Since you have it set for the S5 I just hit slice. I made no changes to your file in anyway. The only difference is the version of Cura.
1st is the .3mf file from my system. Now, I am not sure this will help since the file may not slice the same way on a newer version.
1333205824_UMS5_part3_model_r_0(1)(1)_Cura4-4.3mf
Now, just in case that will not slice like I saw it on my system, here is a .UFP file for you:
UMS5_1333205824_UMS5_part3_model_r_0(1)(1).ufp
I left the way it puts the UMS5 on front to much more easily differentiate by name (keep your files from being overwritten).
And, just in case that fails, here is the GCode file:
UMS5_1333205824_UMS5_part3_model_r_0(1)(1).gcode
Now, the reason I have not upgraded as I just recently got back online after almost a year of being offline. And I am seeing some reports of bugs (of which you seem to have one found here in your initial post). So, I am sticking with what I know for now.
Hope this helps 🙂
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Cannot tell much without the file or .3mf file to evaluate.
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20 minutes ago, geert_2 said:
For sealing seams, maybe you could also make your own custom gaskets? Print a mould, and pour silicone in it, the kind of silicone that is used for, well, mould-making. Be sure to smooth the layer-lines of the mould, otherwise removal of the silicone will be difficult. Silicones come in various hardnesses, from flesh-like up to tire-like.
That would be the 'have to do everything' approach 😂
I am not that good 😉
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Did you try to download the file again? Files can be corrupted during that process.
And, I have downloaded files from Thingiverse that have been poorly made/modified and corrupted.
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On 1/4/2021 at 12:24 PM, gr5 said:
For art pieces like sculptures, a scanner is desired.
👍
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As @GregValiant noted, there were parts of the model floating about. That created the shadow profile. You can see the parts here:
But there are a couple of other parts to this that make this a not so good model. First off, it has multiple parts to this instead of being one cohesive mesh. This is the first piece I found that was separate from the main mesh:
When I deleted that, I still found another piece just floating over the main model:
Once that final piece was deleted, the model was a single mesh and watertight. I do not know Fusion, but this is a list of the problems the final model had. And, yeah, it was a huge scale.
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- Use what you are comfortable with and....
- slowly dabble in new materials that are available in the width that works for your system.
Also depends on what is available to you by way of outside sales.
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Good to know:) Thanks!
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I cannot remember where I read it, but I believe the Pause at Height is not working with height, but is ok with the layer number. I am on an older version and I always use layer number and not height, so I am not sure.
Maybe @gr5 can clarify?
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I gotta tell you, that simple answer gave me the best "follow the link" set of information I have had in a long while. 🙂
Found the paints and saw some really cool stuff as a result. Found a great tutorial on how to use it, found YOUR really great review of products 🙂 I now know what I need to save up for (besides filament LOL) with the very interesting paints he has made.
Really had to laugh at the way he got to making some of his pigments in respect to Anish Kapoor's shenanigans.
Have you tried to 'tint' the chrome so you can get some nice colored 'chrome' (like a shiny Christmas ornaments)?
Also, did you smooth it first or was just a really good print you painted?
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Gonna go out on a limb and conjecture that the missing parts are due to a bunch of open edged polygons that cannot be printed.
Having access to the actual file (STL for the model only and '.3mf' for project file) is much more preferred.
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Never mind......@jman15x is correct. The colours played with my eyes a bit at first, but yeah, you just have a stair stepping issue as described above.
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Although not a likely chance, maybe the NFC tags are damaged?
Although the digital rot on the screen could point to a larger problem in general and should be taken up with reseller(s) if less than a year old.
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I would still use a brim (pretty big one too) as it will help hold down the edges. The edges can lift off without that extra help as you saw. I think it has something to do with how the infill cools and pulls the edges inward.
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Post your latest print!
in What have you made
Posted
This took 23.5 days to print the base and another 2 days to print the female figure. For the second time.....The first time the fingers did not print well. This whole print used almost 2KG of material, so it feels like it has some heft. The design came about when I found a few Ziegfeld Follies girls. It became this; pseudo-art deco influenced fractals and practical modeling.
Other view directions of the full piece.
I used a variety of paints on this whole thing. I also tried out a couple of Stuart Semple's products.
The hair was done using (ultimately)liquitex heavy body paints and the pearl topcoat (UnicornMilk is the paint's name).
It mixed nicely with the liquitex paints and gave me this nice abalone look in the hair.
The fingers came out nicely on the second print. The first print I did some Stuart Semple Paint tests on the first print. I always test on scrap materials. 🙂