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Everything posted by kmanstudios

  1. One thing at a time: This is not cura reading the blender orientation. It is Cura reading the x,y,z coordinates in the exported file. It is all about how you export things. It is not printing hidden geometry. It is trying to print the two objects intersection. Cura sees the objects as two different things because it sees the full geometry that is residing below the plane you inserted it into. To get it to print cleanly you need to do a 'boolean-union' operation in blender then export the final piece as a single set of faces and not intersecting faces.
  2. At the risk of sounding heretical, I do not use UM PVA much due to the cost. I use the Matterhackers MH build PVA. Dissolves much, much quicker, is not brittle at all and prints well. It does have all the other drawbacks of regular PVA though. Moisture issues, storage, etc. A spool of UM PVA is about $80 US and a 1 Kg spool of MH build PVA is about the same cost. I have found that the Breakaway material can work in some surprisingly delicate sculpts, but it really grabs onto the printing material it is supporting. It also works rather well to print the Breakaway at the main interfa
  3. 😂😂 Rit Dye is a textile colour dye, so yeah, I would think so.
  4. Food colours are not light-fast, i.e. will fade. I can only remember seeing Rit Dye used. Yeah, you are right about that.
  5. Absolutely. Great for rougher, organic types of things, but in no way for anything really functional. I have never seen a smooth print made from them, no matter the brand or artist.
  6. My next installment will have links to the types of metallic. chrome and chameleon powders to create different affects. I have almost finished the 'Fairy wings' project and will get back to regular posts about different prints. I did see your post of the sculpt you did. I can see a lot of potential with painting. 🙂 It is a very nice sculpt.
  7. You can make your own with nylon filament. Follow from there. I know it is not gloss, but you can always put on your own gloss. This way you can create your own colour schemes.
  8. The filament was just TPLA. It is the paint that makes the difference. I am documenting how I paint things here: I have not gotten around to documenting how I did the weird critters. But I will be once I get some extra paint. But in short, it was Spaz Stix holographic paint. They make several varieties.
  9. 'Pause at height' does indeed work in Arachne. I just tested it out a day or two ago on a long print.
  10. I think your two examples best sum up what to look for visually. You can see the pocket and hole clearly and then completely fubar in the other view. I also wonder what people are doing when they go into the 'experimental section' and just click. I know why I did it, but cannot assume for others. I do remember early on how I had to learn this: Slice, see, make change, slice, then see change again. Repeat until things look right. I also remember clicking on 'close holes' on an inset circular design and it just capped everything into a cylinder. It did not make sense to m
  11. That is grinding on the filament and can happen with any filament if the feeder is not properly adjusted. You can see that the grinding also creates raised areas that really make it difficult to move through the bowden tube. This then increases the likelihood of more grinding and can really make the filament hard to get out of the feeder or tube. I have even had to take the feeder apart to get the pieces that broke off, or just a lot of other debris that makes life much more difficult. This is solid on what to look for and do. 👍
  12. 😂 The obvious caveat though is, "Do people not check their slice to see what is happening. It is not like it is guess work really. Exactly 🙂 That's proof of why I do not think this has engineering purposes. But for artistic, non-functional printing, it is a fun, helpful oddity in slicing. But, seriously, check the slice before any printing, no matter what is being prepped for printing.
  13. I enjoy the feature. Sometimes, when I am printing without supports (designed that way) there may be times that I have inadvertently put an angle here or there that would create an issue when printing. The 'make overhang printable' lets me turn that on without ruining the whole print as well as means I do not have to go back into sculpting the piece. I would say that it has to do more with artistic prints than engineering though. Shape before slicing. You can see the hollows in the scooped areas. Sliced without overhang printable. Slice follows scoops as modeled.
  14. When it grinds, it creates ridges that can slow down the filament or even stop it in the bowden tube. Whenever I have this issue, I pull out the material (or unload) and make sure it does not have grin marks that cut into the filament.
  15. Check to see if the material has not been grinded until it cannot move. The material empty notification is also because material is not moving, not just finished.
  16. I have never experienced any of those issues you described. I have not used support blocker since upgrading to Cura 4.8. I am wondering what printer you are using with Cura.
  17. I have never seen this display in Cura before. Standard 4.8. And, it is not sliced. What is that display with the weird dots and colours?
  18. I took a look at the file. It is really messed up. 3DS MAX would not even import it: I usually use MAX to check files as it is robust and has an STL checking system. I did get it to load in 3DCoat. But it was still messed up. Then I opened it into Cura 4.8 and it came in tiny (A). It also produced this error message about it not being manifold (B). Scaling the model up in Cura I got this really weird shading. I have never seen this before. I really do not think this car can be salvaged as it is.
  19. I am making a stand to hold the wings when I finish. In the meanwhile, I am doing new wings to test how thin I can print and still make wings from. A dragonfly wing is the type of look I am trying to achieve. We shall see. 🙂
  20. I did this a while back. I will try to find the photos or make new ones and post the results here. I just checked and they are not on my list of previous attachments. Edit: found the photo. This was way back in my early printing days when I was just doing anything to learn about printing and playing with ideas.
  21. So, I was working on some more paint stuff to demonstrate methods and got totally tangented to a stray thought that took over. Faerie Wings. So, I spent a great deal of time researching how to do them properly and, every thing was a bust for me. Most thins posted are about making life sized wings. It works ok on that large of a scale, but not on the smaller print sizes. Many prints later and I can post at least about one successful test at conclusion of the project. I had been doing tests, learning and then starting over. Got bunches of printed wings here now. 😂 So, the
  22. That missing part is odd looking, but the advice is spot on. If you do post the file, I will be happy to take a look. 🙂
  23. You can assign extruder per model. That would be how you would print multicolour designs. On the bottom left hand side of the tool bar, select the model and then click on the number of the extruder. But when it comes to supports, you have to pick an extruder. There are certain parts of the extrusion that you can choose the parts of the support to be which extruder. But for simplicity, you can assign models to either extruder and choose extruder(s) for parts of the support.
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