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Everything posted by kmanstudios

  1. I am of the school of thought: Make the object the way you want it to print.
  2. I am not sure what the bottom image is...sorry. But I can (hopefully not confuse you) with the brightness issues. It has to do with antialiasing and such. All the image has to do is have a few pixels that are not the same value to make the levels not smooth. You may not see it, but it can be in there. As for thin walls, yes, Cura can only slice for print down to a certain thickness. Try turning on 'print thin walls.' Or just make the image a tiny bit thick in those thin wall areas so Cura can see it for your nozzle size.
  3. I would first assume that there is a difference in colours not perceptible by the naked eye. Was this made with a vector program or bitmap program?
  4. For the setup of what I will be showing next, I would like to take a minute to go over the two types of ecosystems you should be aware of. Material Ecosystems are the basic use of the types of paint you wish to use. Oil based such as traditional enamels Solvent based like lacquers Water based like acrylics Traditional enamels are the type of paint that can go over an acrylic. If there is an enamel based paint that has an acrylic painted over, it will cut loose over time. So, always, water based and then traditional enamels. If you are using enamels, then you n
  5. Thanks for providing links for him. I could not think where I found it before.
  6. Or you can use the search tool at the top of the settings panel. Personally, I am all for the show all settings. It is a lot, but, can open a lot of tweaks as you learn.
  7. I am not sure where to find the info...I think @fbrc8-erin had a series of instructions concerning this. I tagged her so that she can hopefully gather the links for you.
  8. Doh!! 😖 That totally slipped past me.....
  9. Great work 🙂 I do not know the building, but I am now hearing The Who's '5:15' in me wee little noggin 🙂
  10. Did you do a really good hot and cold pull to make sure the CPE+ was fully out of the core?
  11. That is nice 🙂 I like the design. Yours or based off of a real building?
  12. I wash the prints with a degreasing dish soap and then thoroughly rinse to remove all traces of PVA as well as oils from the hands. There are times the print is soaked a lot in a vat of water with just a tiny bit of dish soap. But it will always get a final rinse and scrub. But binding is increased by spraying lightly and building up layers. And, then for some things like the critter above, at a certain point, I am really flooding the surface with paint. This is a basic tutorial for painting rattle cans over plastics (model building focused, but it applies t
  13. As an aside and back to chrome paints: If you are looking at the Spaz Stix line of paints (and they have some really cool paints 🙂 ), this vid demonstrates why I do not use their chrome based paints. And, yes, I have tried their chrome. Their Chrome is to be used on the inside of the transparent body. It works spectacularly well for what they are designed for. For the best Chrome review I have found for our applications (on top surface and not under transparent plastic), this is the link to @cloakfiend's review of chrome paints. I will be trying the Molotow Chrome
  14. When the model scales by that amount in the slicer, it means the scale is off. Where did you get the model? Or did you make the model itself? I am downloading it so that I can look at it later and let you know what I have found.
  15. Paints usually belong in an eco-system: Acrylics with acrylics and solvent based with solvent based. Also, making sure what will bind, will bind well. Also there are brand based ecosystems. Also, usually you can paint acrylics on a good primer base and then solvent based on top of that will usually work. This allow me to paint with an acrylic primer and then paint with any solvent based paint. In this print I used only the paints with the same base properties (as well as a brand based eco-system). These paints are part of the Dupli-Color anodized paint series. They prov
  16. OK, so I tried something different: Ornaments. My first ones were primed and painted with Krylon's original Chrome. The spiral ornament was left alone, but I shot some anodized paint over it.....meh..... So, I started to put washes of Pthalo Blue and Unicorn Milk. I built that up until it was a very deep, rich blue with pearlessence. The silvering parts were done with Semple's Holographic powder (Technicolor). But, shooting clear over the ball softened the out layers of paint and, well, let us just say that you should not drop them or it
  17. I concur. Having looked at many models here to help, this type of issue is as @Smithy said percentage wise. I would go as far as to say 100% 😆
  18. 😂 Me too.... If I am reading this right, the moire pattern is a result of the pixel resolution of the screen attempting to display the really tight lines in the preview. I imagine they go away once you zoom in. Now the print; are the lines matching up to the internal support structure? They remind me of leaf veins. Seams would not do that. Seams make straight lines.
  19. I stopped using priming towers after about my first 8 months. If you are having issues with your PVA (and yeah, it is a pain to print with) you should evaluate your room humidity levels. That is the biggest issue when printing with PVA. And minimize retractions to say about 10 or 12.
  20. I did notice, That is why I was so surprised that the model was spot on for 3D printing. But I have no idea beyond the model itself. Basically, the rest is up to someone who is more technically adept than I.
  21. Nope 😆 'Tis not I. It has been there since at least Cura 2.something when I first got started. Just a difference in needs or wants. Anytime I do something that has to be accurate, I would never use it. But, I make mostly silly little things, so occasionally it helps. And, if I missed a joke, Sometimes, I just do not get them. Sorry if I did 🙂
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