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Posts posted by kmanstudios

  1. I have These three bottles that I made from UM PP and they have held colored water for a while without a single leak. I printed these just before the Christmas before my surgery, so...wow...3 years(!) They were printed using standard settings.



    The blue one fell over and the coloured water leaked around the cap. This would require a soft (cork is the only material I can think of right now) gasket that would clamp down tightly when the cap is put on. They sell premade gaskets and would be easy to incorporate.


    Red Bottle is logo'd "K-Bottle", The blue is "Tokah-Cola" done in the coke logo style and the green bottle is just plain. But, these liquids have sat in these containers since I made them.

    • Like 1
  2. This model cannot be fixed in its current 'object' structure. Hopefully I can explain this, so bear with me.


    I opened the model in my 3DSMAX and ran an 'STL Check'. This is a very simple toll that can analyze the structure for many defects. This is what I found upon just starting the process:


    Turquoise boxes show the errors. The blue arrow shows the top part that cannot connect to the cylindrical object. This is because the inner cylinder is a manifold object itself.


    As you can see here, the box is proper walls with a single edge that Cura is capping trying to make it a manifold object. The obliterates the interior cylinder. The blue arrow points to the void and the purple arrow shows the separate manifold object.




    The slightly shaded area is the manifold 'double wall' floating inside the box area.



    I made a very quick model that shows how it should have been done.

    I started with a box. Then made a separate chamfered cylinder and subtracted that from the box. I came out with single walls that are manifold across the entire structure. Contrasting the original model with the double walled cylinder.  This has a single wall that caps all positive surfaces and leaves the negative void to do its job (whatever that design feature is for)



    Here I removed the top part of the box to show the contrast between the original model and the proper model.


    The red edges are the open surfaces that can connect from a single wall to another single wall. The original model had a separate manifold object inside the non-manifold box.


    This shows what the same area of close up from the side looks like in a proper set of walls: it is not a double wall....



    So, the upshot is that the original model cannot be printed or fixed in its current shape. I do not know what package you used, but I cannot imagine any program that will not allow you to subtract one object (say the cylinder) from another (in this case the box). These are simple boolean operations that allow for this specific type of construction.


    Feel free to ding me if I have not made anything clear. I can follow it, but that is not saying much 😆 I will be happy to try and confuse you some more 🙂 

    • Like 3
  3. Fundamentals of modeling....seems to be a continuing issue. Not modeling pertaining to programs, but the fundamental issues that arise no matter what program. Non-water tight, too thin holes, useless voids, tolerances for tab-and-slot type of engineering, ball and socket...things like that?

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  4. Yeah, the model is very well made. 👍  It occurred to me a bit belatedly that I am on an older version of Cura. I just got back online for the first time in a long time so I have to catch up to firmware and software, so it may just not be backwards compatible on the project file.


    Hopefully someone who is more up to date can help with the project file 🙂 Sorry I could not help there.

  5. I checked the model separate from the project file and it is a really good model.

    In Cura (opened the project file, Did not recognize anything machine related) and got this warning:

    UnknownMachineType.jpg.6bdb58d9c1524e14470663072686dbfc.jpg 😞 


    Sorry about that, but sliced it anyway and this is layer 1 in what I would say could be considered as a generic slice as it follows all the geometry properly. It is not a really uique pattern.



    I do not know what the model is for, but it has voids in it that could weaken the part. Here is an image with the voids shown in the preview mode and then sliced up to a point to demonstrate the thin walls and not much infill. I do not know if this would be a problem or part of the design itself.



  6. 31 minutes ago, PaulK said:

    Thank god for hot air rework stations

    I use mine now for that purpose. Fine control over temperature and small focused stream of air. That is all it is good for me now 😄 I certainly cannot do any tight welding or re-work. At least for now...hope to be able to in good time. 😊

  7. Once I can afford some PVA I have a print I want to do that needs it because of the delicate nature of the design. It was one of the last designs I did before surgery and could still sculpt reliably....


    I was thinking about @fbrc8-erin when I painted the snail creature. I know she likes red and, well, I promised a red print a long while ago. The funnly thing is that some of the BBs and lead shot bounced into the infill areas, so they rattle a bit if you shake it 😛


    • Thanks 1
  8. 1 hour ago, Enigma_M4 said:

    Hi Paul,


    the "squaring" procedure is described here:


    Note: for proper calibration, you need two sets of calibration sticks; STLs are sourced in the mentioned link.



    Excellent Source...Thanks! 🙂 But I also find the irony...if that is your only printer, then you have to outsource the part so you can print again.


    ....Sometimes, I am just too easily amused.....😄

  9. If you can set the temperature of the core, set it to the materials softening point and pull it off.


    If not, use a finely controllable source of hot air and heat it with that focused on the plastic.


    I have no idea how to square the brackets. Sorry....

  10. Yeah, but PVA can be used for things with spindly parts like fingers or hair and it comes off very cleanly. But for this, I learned a lot about using the breakaway which was fun 🙂 I have two to paint and one to finish printing and then paint and I think I have one more design waiting to crawl out of me wee pointy little head.

  11. Ran out of PVA and desperation did the rest 😆 I did learn to alter the design structures to hold up with the extra strain of pulling that stuff off (no spindly areas). It can be tough getting it off the model cleanly and also printing with it with the type of things I posted here can cause it to clog a bit. I learned that if you do a 'fake material change' to back it out and feed it again will get it to unclog and get right back to printing with it. Yay S5 sensor 🙂


  12. These are some weird critters I have been making. One of the changes I made in my design is to not make such spindly things because I ran out of PVA materials. I had two spools of White Breakaway. I also tried to print without supports as well as experimented with PLA supports as well and eventually wound up with a mix of PLA and white breakaway supports. But first I designed a couple of things that did not require supports. 


    This just some odd thing I made while trying to work in a basically 'primitive' style. I printed this on my UM3E with the wobbly head. So, layers are bit more visible than I would have liked.



    Then I printed this thing.



    This was when I figured an odd way of making semi-organic things that have a bit of a 'constructed' element to them and then I started making really weird things.




    This was my first print with the Breakaway material. You can see one of the fingers got messed up.


    This is it cleaned and the finger replaced with a reprinted hand part.





    And this print was the first I did with the mix of PLA and Breakaway supports. Sometimes the breakaway really sticks to the PLA. But it easier to remove as a whole than straightforward PLA supports. Also the breakaway forms a proper contour bed for the undersides to rest on without getting support marred surfaces.






    Each of these prints has pellets I have inserted during the printing process. Really makes a difference in how the pieces feel when you pick them up.


    The pellets are a mix of Copper BBs and lead shot that is used by scuba divers for weights. Then I pour a glue over it to cement them into place.

    Then it prints on up like this:


    This one has not been cleaned and painted yet.


    I figured a way to paint these using a wet on wet technique with rattle can paints. It allows for a rich wash of colour that also creates a semi-metal flake affect and a multi coloured speckle effect.





    • Like 3
  13. 16 minutes ago, Smithy said:

    and would book you as a teacher immediately

    Not sure I could offer anything more than a demonstration of techniques. If you can form a picture in your mind, you can do it. 🙂


    Precise vocabulary on the fly is difficult.


  14. I have some really bizarre things I will take pics of tomorrow to post.


    I actually did those way back in the S5 beta test machines and testing some cool materials. The guys stand on their own. So, I got lucky with the balance in the sculpt. Oddly, the idea sprouted out of another visual pun during that time:


  15. This is a sculpt I actually did pre-surgery. I just got around to painting it. First off, this was printed on my UM3E with the wobbly head. It was never meant to be a show piece hence the visible layering and such. But, I thought it had a bit of charm to the concept. So, Painted them eventually and this is the piece:


    apologies to Billy Joel.......

    • Like 1
  16. About 8PM Local time (Brooklyn) a 7.5 day print finishes. I will let it sit overnight to cool and be much easier to remove from the bed in the morning. Then I will put finished prints on the bed and take pics. Got some really odd stuff coming out as soon as I get pics taken tomorrow.

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