Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

kmanstudios

Ambassador
  • Content Count

    3,917
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    116

Posts posted by kmanstudios

  1. 32 minutes ago, Smithy said:

    read a book in the meantime

    😆

    So true!!!

    One of the frustrating things is my lack of ability to keep an image in my mind like I used to. So I can only work for a short period of time before I lose the image and have to stop. One of the reasons I have not finished Cousin Eerie himself. I cannot figure what to do with the legs in the display because I cannot figure much else to put into the room. I do not want to replicate 'Uncle Creepy's" display. 

     

    One of the fun things about doing the Cousin Eerie head was deciding what to make it look like based off the original art direction. For instance, he has no eyebrows, just a muddled up brow ridge. Many artists mess that up. 

     

    Like this:

    http://dombidau.com/index.php/illustration/cousin-eerie/#

    This is the image without going to the link:

    131_eerie02.thumb.jpg.ed35dd09148b157f2f2abec2a5ea764d.jpg

    Cousin Eerie does not have bottom teeth other than the two 'tusks.' He is also a bit more 'pinheaded' or egg shaped head, than a big old round head.....It is subtle, but important in the way I see the character.

     

    Or this one:

    6a2f970316ea4619932405e229ac8a66lg.jpg

     

    Which sadly, is an official statue (Dark Horse), sorta modeled off this really nice illustration by Sanjulian in which you can see he has no eyebrows. The Pin Head is much better though.....

    2Sa8gx3gV301vgXWR3JdpLV3ig5QnXk-QG0gllkL 

    or this image from another Sanjulian drawing

    fLea0v8g_090120034249lola.jpg

    Hollows in the eye cavity, but not from actual eyebrows. And, surprisingly, as much of a fan I am of Bernie Wrightson, I did not care for his version. Good art, but did not seem to capture the character.

     

  2. Thanks to you guys 🙂 You know what is really funny to me? Even now when I work, say in 3DS MAX (Which I have used since version 1 way back in '91) I still retain a lot of muscle memory. So when I am working, my hand will go to the proper place and then I have to sit there and wonder what my arm was trying to use. I will look at the area my hand is at and think "Now, what am I trying to do..." 🙃

  3. Okay, it has been a long time since I posted any new prints. For full disclosure, a couple of years ago I had major surgery on the major aorta that feeds the femoral arteries and the left branch ripped. Lost a lot of blood and had a minor (Thank goodness!!!) stroke. It has impacted me in ways that impact my planning and visual processes. Not gone, just limited and slowly getting better. But, wow, am I slooooowww.......

     

    So, I had made this previous print before the stroke but printed and painted it after the stroke:

     

    So, this spring I started one of the companion pieces: Cousin Eerie.

    I hit a block on Cousin Eerie and could only get this far. I took the main sculpt and turned it into a little 'Bust' of the character. Printed on my remaining UM3E with PLA and PVA.

    Cousin_Eerie.thumb.jpg.4c30ec5f29137d0e0c35f8500dd20fe3.jpg

     

    It is quite small as it is in the scale of Uncle Creepy and the display that hopefully becomes the finished display like Uncle Creepy is. Took me a month to do just this. Normally a week to get a full character sculpt. Below is the companion piece for the actual display. This would have normally taken about a week to do, but at current abilities, took 8 weeks to do.

     

    TheSoulOrgan.thumb.jpg.bbdd6ccc01d3fe4f087df4b2c34e3ad8.jpg

     

    These are the individual pieces:

    DSC03357.thumb.jpg.29b62360a35173a232af46962121f18f.jpg

     

    My hands are a bit shakier than before so, sorry for the blur. But, you can see the individual pieces that I printed. Big parts printed on the S5 with PLA and PVA.

    This is the Stool detail:

    DSC03366.thumb.jpg.6ebf6fa9d4c11219e375fd9f268f25e0.jpg

     

    These are the organ details:

    DSC03359.thumb.jpg.5f7eb84e61ec0775f0ebb00215156f10.jpg

     

    And another angle on the assembled organ:

    DSC03362.thumb.jpg.5bf766fbb9f2a04843d10781592b9f28.jpg

     

    This is an early test print of the organ itself with just a bit of primer prayed on for detail:

    DSC03356.thumb.jpg.ba106a6fd4ef53a941a1d6209703d5fa.jpg

     

    So, I do not use the priming tower and promised to tag @Nicko_Airbus when I posted a print.

    • Like 6
  4. 35 minutes ago, Nicko_Airbus said:

    But what are the side effects of not using a prime tower ? Doesn't this affect the quality of your printed part ?

    Not that I notice. What the lack of a priming tower means for me is a lot less time and loss of very expensive PVA material. I will be posting prints soon so you can see what is going on with my prints. I am just a bit slow these days. When I post, I can tag you if you want. That way you can see 🙂

    But, if you want to see an old print, here is a view of earlier work...

     

     

  5. 25 minutes ago, Nicko_Airbus said:

    I'm not sure this is because the nozzle is clogged up. I did another print right after this one and things went better.

    Huh...Well, it is good to have a cold pull just to be sure 😉. I have an S5 (early beta machine) and I do notice that if the fan is not running properly (maybe dirty or whatnot) it will do that. So, if the print you did afterwards did not take as much time, it may not have been enough time for it to heat up and create issues. Note that this is not the same as a clogged nozzle. Just bad heat creep that mucks things up. At least that is what I surmise about the fan/heating issue I have seen.

     

    I also am still on 4.4 (just got internet after about 8 months now and slowly knocking out things to update)So, I have no idea about the issues after version 4.4.

    • Like 1
  6. I took a look at the vile and it is really a mess. I could not fix it without basically rebuilding the file from scratch. There are voids with really hyperthin walls and it is also non-manifold in a lot of areas (the places that show up as problems) a lot of open edges and non-welded vertices that cannot connect.

    • Like 1
  7. For lack of a better term, your support seems to be very ratty all around. Have you made a really good cold pull to make sure your nozzle is not clogging up a bit? It looks as if all your support stopped at the same layer and a lot of missing-ish places along the support.

     

    What slicer version are you using and I am assuming that is an Ultimaker printer?

    • Like 1
  8. 1 hour ago, Link said:

    How do you use project files over material profiles ?, can you explain?

     

    I have various slicing profiles and material profiles, how do project files replace the combination of slicing with for example PETG and two different quality settings ?

    I am not sure I understand the question, but I will take a stab at it.

     

    The project file will save every aspect of the material all the way through the individual settings.

     

    This is an example of how I name my files for ease of recognition.

    UMS5_Hulk_PLA_PVA-04mmNoz_006Lay.3mf

     

    This is the printer it is formatted for, then the name of the print, then the materials by nozzle and, in order of extruder, size of nozzle in use and finally the layer thickness.

     

    I also save the project files in folders that are labeled by material.

     

    Does this help?

     

     

  9. 25 minutes ago, dfrez said:

    Although, not sure what you mean by “non-mobile feeder tube”? 

    On both my Dehydrator and PolyBox have a bowden tube that is inserted into the 'dry box' part that is very helpful when feeding from the drying mechanism to the feeder. This would be 'locked down' on that end. But, I originally tried to lock the other end to the feeder, but found everything (for me) worked better to just let the free end of the bowden tube be loose from the feeder.

     

    This is what I meant about being mobile...when the feeder pulls the filament, it is pulled up tight to the feeder. But when it retracts. the bowden tube is let 'loose' from the feeder since nothing is holding it. I found that it reduced the friction enough to make things work smoother. It is just not a lot of slack/gap between the end of the bowden tube and the feeder...maybe a centimeter if I remember correctly.

  10. 33 minutes ago, Smithy said:

    Of course it is always good to connect the DryBox and the feeder to the Bowden tube, but in practice this is not necessary. I simply use my polyboxes without any additional connection and have no problems with it.

     

    I am therefore not sure whether it is worth the effort for the conversion.

    This should be followed by realizing that all that additional friction with a non-mobile feeder tube will be created. If the bowden tube has the ability to move a tiny bit with the filament helps to overcome that when the printer does retractions, printhead pause retraction whilst the other nozzle is printing (assuming you have a dual head setup). There are friction issues that can be created in just the feeder to printhead. Depending on the setup (distance from drying gizmo to bottom of feeder) can actually double the friciton issues with all that other tubing.

     

    The bowden tube is anchored to the drybox/dehydrator/drying gizmo and only has a very small amount of filament exposed at any time on the feeder end of the tube. I think that is why they show to have the humidity reading at 11% humidity in the box, so that it will not really be affected whilst being fed. YMMV in various areas where the humidity is just really horrible if not in a climate controlled space.

     

     

    Too wordy?

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...