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Everything posted by kmanstudios

  1. looks like underextrusion.
  2. I am hoping someone from Team Ultimaker will see this to verify or, clarify this. My memory ain't so good since surgery. It may be just general electrical interference. The good thing is that you can turn off the active leveling after manual leveling. It generally lasts as long as you have the same buildplate in place.
  3. When I first inquired about this when I got my first UM3E (right after product launch), I remember being told here that the machine is susceptible to RF interference. With that machine, I have had to do what you did. Manually level and just print. It does not happen all the time, but when it does, I have to do as you did and then a bit later, it goes back to normal.
  4. The model has all sorts of STL errors. Basically, it is not watertight. Here is a pic of the STL Check I ran in 3DS MAX. What this does is prevent the slicer from detecting a true inside and outside, therefore putting support everywhere. I am going out on a limb and guessing this is another Sketchup file.
  5. That looks like the angle of the printed piece and the layer thickness created the stair-step. If notice, it happens on the longest slope and evens out on the angles with greater attack. I sliced something to demonstrate that.The images on the left has a greater angle from the buildplate. The image has a much lower angle (more horizontal) and has a stairstep that is much more prominent.
  6. I did a 20 micron print ages ago and I could tell the difference between it and the 40 micron height. Just oodles and oodles of added time.
  7. @SandervG, is there someone at UM that can explain this behaviour?
  8. I wonder if this is something similar to what happens when people put brittle PLA in the oven and it gets more pliable. I am just thinking it is not a humidity related issue, but some other process. Heat does more than just dry things out. Would be nice if someone with some sort of chemistry experience would chime in so we were not just all guessing.
  9. I tried a couple of thins and did not find a way to modify that instance. The only way I see to make it happen is to make a brim for your object.
  10. That does not seem to make sense to me as if getting moist made it brittle, it would do so when dissolving it. PVA by nature is going to soften and dissolve when moist or wet. Why would it get brittle?
  11. 🤣 This is definitely not a humidity issue as humidity would make it softer and not brittle. When you get to an end of a roll, the winding is much tighter and you just may be in the really unusual situation where the PVA is so dry, it cannot relax enough to straighten out enough to feed properly. This happens on many other filaments as well. But, most are not hygroscopic. As counter intuitive as it may sound, you may need a humidifier in your room to get to around 50% or, just slightly less to let the PVA soften a bit to unwind. For other filaments, I use those ends as a cleaning filament. PVA may (probably) would not be good for that. But, you can recycle it into water to make a slurry for bed adhesion.
  12. kmanstudios

    Food safe

    I printed some 'half prints' (flat on one side and sculpted on the other) to make vacuum formed molds and sent them to my nephew to make chocolates out of. The vacuum formed molds worked well. The more flexible material (I have to look up the type as I tried several types of plastic Vacuum Form sheets worked best. So, the idea of making a mold positive (3D printed) to make a mold negative is the best way to get around any issues. Although a filament may be food safe, it cannot be guaranteed to print food safe. Is the feeder system sterile? Is the nozzle contaminated by any external source? That list can go on, but also, as mentioned above, the FDM (really any printing method) will introduce air pockets, rough surfaces and various hollow spaces/cavities that can create a lot of issues. As for smoothing something with acetone will probably produce a suitably smooth surface, I am not so sure I would be comfortable using the finished product. I would not do it for my personal usage and therefore certainly would not do it for others to use for consumption.
  13. And, th4ey would tell you to take it to a 3D printed forum, or just tell you to buy one.
  14. This I get. But I did not make clear that point or that it was just a thought of having something that would provide for a barrier. :)
  15. Ever just tried to turn off the filament sensor? Setting (Gear symbol)------->Settings------->Scroll down to the flow sensor.....actually, it is secong on the setting area. But, I am not on the S5 Beta. Also, PVA can just be a pain about setting this off because as soon as humidity makes it, by the least amount, pliable, it will give false errors.
  16. I have not. I use a PVA slurry that can be dissolved. If frozen, will cut loose. I have chipped glass with PLA. So, I am thinking it should not be the glass.
  17. Cool....I have not tried it in the 4.0 Beta 2 version, but it really is nice when you want to do a variety of operations such as you describe, or dropping things in for /print in place, etc. Glad you found it! Remember, it stays active in slice operations until you deactivate it. Even if you are doing a new slice. Found this out when I started a new print (after using it in another print AFTER using it in the previous print) when I was just about asleep and heard the printer pause.
  18. That is what the 'Pause at Height" plugin is for.
  19. OK. But, there could be tolerance issues and such that make Cura pick up the line. And, without a model to examine, I am kinda thinking that it prevents anybody from really trying to help as, if they have the experiences I do, it is something not seen in our slices.
  20. I wonder if there is a slight error in the model itself. Can you provide it?
  21. I think it is how it is phrased. I know I run afoul of this many times.
  22. This is a fair point to consider (along with the professional tool). In my case, usually, there is so little to actually splice, and the winding is so tight, it is really only good for cleaning. PVA is different though because it sometimes needs to come off the printer due to water absorption, and that can lead to a significant amount of filament to be saved and spliced. After that, it needs to be thoroughly dried to be of use.
  23. Usually, I roll up some Aluminum foil to cradle the two ends together and heat it with a lighter or candle flame, Usually, I am just splicing rolls of PVA that went soft together and then dry the resulting filament once respooled to one of the older spools. Most PLA and other filaments are run close enough to the end to make them just basic cleaning cleaning filament.
  24. For PVA, you can fuse it. Or, if sufficiently short, can dissolve in water and add a bit of isopropyl to it for a very nice slurry for print adhesion. Other filaments can be fused as well. You just have to make sure that it is not: 1. Burned and made hard. It does have to bend and B) It maintains a proper diameter so it will travel through the bowden tube easily. This also goes for PVA If memory serves me correctly, there are several devices that can be found on the interwebby for doing this, or at least help with the process. I just usually keep some of the filament ends to assist with hot and cold pulls.
  25. It works for me. I will be posting a pre-post processing print soon with Colorfabb's PLA/PHA. I just seem to have better luck with PVA than most for some reason. Still gives me fits sometimes, but overall much better than most. Dunno why.... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Edit: By and large, I use Matterhackers PVA due to expense. I do use UM PVA too, I just save it for certain projects.....Works awesome with the UM materials.
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