kmanstudios

Good to know:) Thanks!

I cannot remember where I read it, but I believe the Pause at Height is not working with height, but is ok with the layer number. I am on an older version and I always use layer number and not height, so I am not sure. Maybe @gr5 can clarify?

I gotta tell you, that simple answer gave me the best "follow the link" set of information I have had in a long while. 🙂 Found the paints and saw some really cool stuff as a result. Found a great tutorial on how to use it, found YOUR really great review of products 🙂 I now know what I need to save up for (besides filament LOL) with the very interesting paints he has made. Really had to laugh at the way he got to making some of his pigments in respect to Anish Kapoor's shenanigans. Have you tried to 'tint' the chrome so you can get some nice colored 'chrome' (like a shiny Christmas ornaments)? Also, did you smooth it first or was just a really good print you painted?

Gonna go out on a limb and conjecture that the missing parts are due to a bunch of open edged polygons that cannot be printed. Having access to the actual file (STL for the model only and '.3mf' for project file) is much more preferred.

Never mind......@jman15x is correct. The colours played with my eyes a bit at first, but yeah, you just have a stair stepping issue as described above.

Although not a likely chance, maybe the NFC tags are damaged? Although the digital rot on the screen could point to a larger problem in general and should be taken up with reseller(s) if less than a year old.

I would still use a brim (pretty big one too) as it will help hold down the edges. The edges can lift off without that extra help as you saw. I think it has something to do with how the infill cools and pulls the edges inward.

I have These three bottles that I made from UM PP and they have held colored water for a while without a single leak. I printed these just before the Christmas before my surgery, so...wow...3 years(!) They were printed using standard settings. The blue one fell over and the coloured water leaked around the cap. This would require a soft (cork is the only material I can think of right now) gasket that would clamp down tightly when the cap is put on. They sell premade gaskets and would be easy to incorporate. Red Bottle is logo'd "K-Bottle", The blue is "Tokah-Cola" done in the coke logo style and the green bottle is just plain. But, these liquids have sat in these containers since I made them.

🤣

This model cannot be fixed in its current 'object' structure. Hopefully I can explain this, so bear with me. I opened the model in my 3DSMAX and ran an 'STL Check'. This is a very simple toll that can analyze the structure for many defects. This is what I found upon just starting the process: Turquoise boxes show the errors. The blue arrow shows the top part that cannot connect to the cylindrical object. This is because the inner cylinder is a manifold object itself. As you can see here, the box is proper walls with a single edge that Cura is capping trying to make it a manifold object. The obliterates the interior cylinder. The blue arrow points to the void and the purple arrow shows the separate manifold object. The slightly shaded area is the manifold 'double wall' floating inside the box area. I made a very quick model that shows how it should have been done. I started with a box. Then made a separate chamfered cylinder and subtracted that from the box. I came out with single walls that are manifold across the entire structure. Contrasting the original model with the double walled cylinder. This has a single wall that caps all positive surfaces and leaves the negative void to do its job (whatever that design feature is for) Here I removed the top part of the box to show the contrast between the original model and the proper model. The red edges are the open surfaces that can connect from a single wall to another single wall. The original model had a separate manifold object inside the non-manifold box. This shows what the same area of close up from the side looks like in a proper set of walls: it is not a double wall.... So, the upshot is that the original model cannot be printed or fixed in its current shape. I do not know what package you used, but I cannot imagine any program that will not allow you to subtract one object (say the cylinder) from another (in this case the box). These are simple boolean operations that allow for this specific type of construction. Feel free to ding me if I have not made anything clear. I can follow it, but that is not saying much 😆 I will be happy to try and confuse you some more 🙂

Congrats!!🥂🍺🍸 and for me...the sippy cup (I think) 🥛 or milk....

regardless of the modeling mistake, it is a watertight model. Just out of curiosity, did you try an earlier version of Cura?

Yeah, the model is very well made. 👍 It occurred to me a bit belatedly that I am on an older version of Cura. I just got back online for the first time in a long time so I have to catch up to firmware and software, so it may just not be backwards compatible on the project file. Hopefully someone who is more up to date can help with the project file 🙂 Sorry I could not help there.

I checked the model separate from the project file and it is a really good model. In Cura (opened the project file, Did not recognize anything machine related) and got this warning: 😞 Sorry about that, but sliced it anyway and this is layer 1 in what I would say could be considered as a generic slice as it follows all the geometry properly. It is not a really uique pattern. I do not know what the model is for, but it has voids in it that could weaken the part. Here is an image with the voids shown in the preview mode and then sliced up to a point to demonstrate the thin walls and not much infill. I do not know if this would be a problem or part of the design itself.

It would be better if you included the file you are trying to slice and print (we can see what an issue may be). It could just be the model. The most optimal would be the project file since we could see everything including the model.

I use mine now for that purpose. Fine control over temperature and small focused stream of air. That is all it is good for me now 😄 I certainly cannot do any tight welding or re-work. At least for now...hope to be able to in good time. 😊

I make my own adhesion glue using Water, alcohol and recycled PVA and paint it on using a soft brush. It can stick very well, but, @Nicolinux is correct a gently mist of water around the edges will allow water to creep underneath and allow for easy removal if needed.

So I see with your reply. Always nice to learn a new trick 🙂

Once I can afford some PVA I have a print I want to do that needs it because of the delicate nature of the design. It was one of the last designs I did before surgery and could still sculpt reliably.... I was thinking about @fbrc8-erin when I painted the snail creature. I know she likes red and, well, I promised a red print a long while ago. The funnly thing is that some of the BBs and lead shot bounced into the infill areas, so they rattle a bit if you shake it 😛

Excellent Source...Thanks! 🙂 But I also find the irony...if that is your only printer, then you have to outsource the part so you can print again. ....Sometimes, I am just too easily amused.....😄

If you can set the temperature of the core, set it to the materials softening point and pull it off. If not, use a finely controllable source of hot air and heat it with that focused on the plastic. I have no idea how to square the brackets. Sorry....

Yeah, but PVA can be used for things with spindly parts like fingers or hair and it comes off very cleanly. But for this, I learned a lot about using the breakaway which was fun 🙂 I have two to paint and one to finish printing and then paint and I think I have one more design waiting to crawl out of me wee pointy little head.

Ran out of PVA and desperation did the rest 😆 I did learn to alter the design structures to hold up with the extra strain of pulling that stuff off (no spindly areas). It can be tough getting it off the model cleanly and also printing with it with the type of things I posted here can cause it to clog a bit. I learned that if you do a 'fake material change' to back it out and feed it again will get it to unclog and get right back to printing with it. Yay S5 sensor 🙂

Oh, no PVA 🙂 All printed with PLA and White Breakaway. Manually pulled off with needle nose pliers and an x-acto knife to get at the breakaway and pry it off.

On average, the print times are around 7 days. Here are a few more that I got pics of: