Swissengineer

For printing with abrasive material you should change to a hard core from solex... And I would recommend using Printafix for good abs adhesion on the bed

I don't call that a solution.... lol I see also that my posts counter is 0 now... normal?

Hey looks good! Except for the profile pictures that are all stretched...

Speaking of power, for the electronics, I would also suggest a 110-230V heater instead of DC. Then you can have a much smaller DC power supply. That could be incorpored to the product! So you can lower the BOM cost... Instead of buying one....

This, plus: - Filament that is easily accessible - accessing from the back is a joke - Firmware that doesn't glitch 24/7 - Cura that actually works quickly and reliably I bought an UM3 for its reputation for reliability and quality - I mistakenly thought it would be 'print and go' - I've had nothing but problems. At the moment I can't even send a Simplify 3D print via Cura to the printer (using Simplify 3D because Cura is awful). The supported underside of prints are a complete mess, stringy and not flat. I should be able to just print it out of the box perfectly and only mess with settings if I want to - not have to change things because they don't work in the first place! Never had a firmware glich or a problem with cura, And we print almost 24/24 since 1 year now with our UM3E..... But I agree that the underside of prints are a mess, if you print with PVA as support you will have a nice surface. But a long printing time.....

a closed chamber thermally regulated, with closed compartments for filaments like pva....

Thanks !!

My experience is the same. Last night my printer jammed completely. See out of focus pic: Had to take the whole thing apart. After cleaning out the feeder and the printcore I tried again but kept jamming. Increased tension all the way and still jammed. Then I realised how soft the filament felt and realised it must be from moisture, lots of rain and misty days lately. Will try dry it out on a heating pad as suggested and the dry box seems like a good idea going forward. This is my first time using PVA so did not realise it was going to be this susceptible to moisture but it makes total sense. Hey, Yes you have a problem with moisture, here is what you need to do: Tomhe reply Then you need to always print what you need, then remove the spool and store in a sealed bag with desiccants inside. Good luck

Hello every one, I was thinking about adding an optical sensor in the feeder of the UM3. I would like the sensor to pause a print. But I can't find the schematics for the UM3 Pcb to know if is there any pin I can use... Isn't supposed to be open source? Thanks for the help

Il suffit de prendre un profil existant et de le modifier sur Cura pour correspondre aux parametres que tu veux. La machine n'a pas besoin de connaitre le filament.

Found out! There was a short circuit between the PT100 Contacts and the small connector (some solder) that is present on Solex only. I don't know why they put this connector but, they had to put the wire too close to each other... not a good design (layout speaking). Anyway, it's working now.

I measured 110 Ohm on the gold pads so it's not a cable problem it seems, and yes the original core works fine.

Hey Guys, Just bought my first Hard core from 3D Solex, but when I install it in my UM3E , I get the Max temp error every time. I've tried, the normal method to change cores, and I've tried doing it when the printer was off. None worked.... HELP?

Someone from Electronics ??

Hey Tom, What happens when PVA is exposed to humidity? How does it affect the printing? If a PVA spool got too much humidity, can I heat it up in the oven to remove the humidity?

Hey everyone, I'm having trouble printing really small pieces with my stock UM3E due to the 0.4mm nozzle... I know gr5 make some, do you guys have tested it? Is there any other options? How difficult is to get the right settings for a tiny print? From what I read it seems that this is not really easy.... What do you guys recommend me? Thanks for the help!

Mine did not come with the NFC tag, because when I ordered it, it was not available yet when I got my UM3E (november 2016). Only PVA spools had them...

Hey everyone, I was wondering if there is any way to change the material list inside the printer. For example: I put a new material like a black ABS from Ultimaker, but the machine only has ABS available. So in Cura I have to put black ABS from Ultimaker and every time it tell me that my configuration is not the same as the machine... This is problematic because this feature is really important, and the tendency is to ignore the message every time... I worry that one day I will have a real difference between configurations, and not look at the message and mess things up. Cheers

For most of my prints, I only use one core ( but the second needs to be installed i think) the printer doesn't care what is in the spool holder. When you send a print from cura it will ask you if you are sure with your settings and tell you if you are sending different settings from the ones that are loaded , you can then change your settings or continue any way. For now you cannot stream thru internet the camera feed , but I guess with some computer magic it must be possible. For the door, there is a lot of designs to make one, and you should not make your decision over that. From what I know, the auto leveling does not concern the type of core you have. And finally , it seems we are not too far away from the releases for the new cores.

The kit to be able to print CPE+ PC and TPU95A, the door for better print with ABS etc... Like this one: Advanced 3D Printing Kit for UM2+

Hey guys, Just wondering when I will be able to get the advanced printing kit for my UM3E?? Any dates?

Hey guys, Lately I am using more often the USB key for printing instead of the wifi, because I can track what I printed and print back a piece I have done in the past instead of finding the project I have worked, the stl file and everything. I think it would be a nice option to be able to auto-save all gcodes that are printed in a separated file with a log of time and print. Cheers

I don't really know what's inside, after some digging I found 85-95% ethanol and 1-5% propane in the safety datasheet, but maybe there is some other stuff but not dangerous so not in the safety.... (links: http://www.aprintapro.com/downloads/ ) It doesn't smell much, at least much much less than acetone. And to remove the print I was really impressed. The brim stays attached really good, but the part as soon as you cool down the bed you can see it unstick by it self! I just use a spatula to remove the print and then water and soap to clean the bed then alcohol (don't have warm water in my shop). Next time I will see if can do a video.

Hello everyone, I have been using a product for the past months for ABS adhesion. It's called PrintaFix. I really loved it because I don't have to worry anymore if I'm printing with ABS PLA PVA etc... I do NOT sell these products don't worry. I just wanted to recommend it for those who are willing to pay a bit more for something to get always a 100% of good prints. And it is much easier to clean because you need only soap! I started with Acetone juice and everything and this product gave me the joy to print with ABS. For most of my parts I print ABS now, because of the strength and the easy post-processing with acetone. Give-it a try! Cheers

as for the orientation I would print it up side down. With the legs up. I think you would gain in print time, check it and let us know