Zwakie

Hallo @aeonium, Ja das geht über den URL http://www.xxx.yyy.zzz:8080/?action=stream (www.xxx.yyy.zzz ist die IP-Addressee der Drucker). Ist ein richtiges Stream, also viel besser als die (glaub Ich) 2 Bilder pro Sekunde die mann in Cura hat.

Hi Conny, it's not a real big deal, you only need to find your way around Cura I guess. For material that is not recognized automatically because the NFC tag is missing on the spool, you will have to setup a material profile once (remember: having a profile for different colors of the same materials can be helpfull). How I do this? 1. On the UM3 itself select the closest match (temperature wise) to the material you are loading; temperature is important so the 'unknown' material will melt properly 2. Open Cura 3. On the menu go to Settings > Printcore (choose number you have loaded material into) > Material > Manage materials... 4. Duplicate material profile that most closely matches the material loaded and name it so that you recognise the material 5. Edit the newly created profile to match the material parameters Next step is to create a custom print profile via Settings > Princore [x] > Profile > Manage Profiles, this is pretty much self-explanatory when you go through the screens, basically works the same as for setting up materials profiles. Before doing this give a bit of thought of how you will name the profiles, since the list of profiles might grow large over time and a bit of smart naming might help you find profiles a little easier later on. Once you've done this, you can select the material through Settings > Printcore [x] > Material and the print profile through Settings > Printcore [x] > Profile All that is left now is set the other parameters for desired/optimal print results (most likely you will need to a bit of test printing to get to the desired result), and update the print profile when your requirements have been achieved. In case you wonder why to setup materials AND profiles: setting up materials independ from profiles allows you to use the same material different profiles. Hope this helps. Edit: I forgot to mention that when you start a printjob via the network, you will get a warning that material does not match the material that Cura thinks is in the printer (remember you selected one of the 5 available on the machine itself?) You can simply ignore the warning and go ahead with printing.

Thanks for confirming. Like I wrote before, I can indeed "feel" the ticking on the Z-axis when the ticks occur. You are correct about the 10 layers that the active leveling does it's job, I believe I read this in the "Day 1-6 and 7th day rest" series on the website. I am now quite sure this is what I am hearing since the ticking sound stops after having printed 10 layers. What I wrote earlier about the sound being there throughout the print was wrong, apologies for providing that faulty information. Anyway, another really accurate manual level did indeed minimize the ticks to the point it's almost absent. (yeah, manual leveling is what I love most, duh ) I will leave this matter to rest now and am happy that the ticking sounds can serve as a control tool to confirm that the active leveling systems actually works. Thanks for educating me on this system

I can feel the ticking in the Z axis. No sounds when just moving the head around. I'm happy I finally am making some progress with this... This brings on another question: WHY is the Z axis ticking (or at least broadcasting the ticking sound)? I am 100% sure that I leveled the bed very accurately by hand (did that 10+ times, I am getting this ticking sound after every manual leveling). Maybe @sandervg can enlighten us as to what the UM3 is doing/trying to do here? I'm sure that Ultimaker wishes to get to the bottom of this, especially if the ONLY way to shut it up is to disable the auto bed-level mechanism. So ultima(ker)tely will come up with a solution I'm sure! (unlike you I am not going to disable this feature, the ticking sound is not really annoying me)

Thanks @fbrc8-erin for sharing your thoughts with us. Tension on the feeders have not been changed. The feeder could indeed be the source, but (if memory serves me well) I have those ticks also during travel moves, which goes a little against the thesis that the feeder is the source. To be sure I will do a test print with long and slow travels across X/Y. If no ticking during travel chances are it's the feeder, otherwise I have to look elsewhere, right? Regarding materials: I did not pay real attention, so can't tell if there is a correlation between material used and the volume and intensity of the ticking sound. I however did observe variations in these sound-variables. Another observation is that the sound-pattern itself definitely is repetitive in nature, it strongly seems related to the X/Y-position and direction of movement of the print head (this is why I initially found the bed-level system to be the best suspect). Well, 'nough said for now, first will do the test to see if the sound is there during travel moves...

That's great news. Thanks for the sharing that with us

apologies, I inadvertently flagged your reply as inappropriate. Tried to undo, but there does not seem to be an option to do so. Again, my bad for which I apologize.

I think there is more to it than just the autolevel system correcting for sub-optimal manual leveling. I have two reasons for this assumption: 1. It keeps doing it, even after paying real attention to manual leveling and making sure that the layer-thickness of the very first layer printed is very consistent height-wise 2. The ticking sound does not stop after the 10 layers that the autobed-level system is supposed to do it's task; in my case it keeps ticking throughout the entire print, regardless of how many layers are being printed (done some prints > 700 layers and enjoyed that sound until the prints finished). So I guess we have to start a quest to find out WHAT ELSE might be causing this ticking sound. As the original poster of this thread I cannot locate the source of the sound and have no clue how to pinpoint what is causing it. If anyone has any idea, please share it with us so we can start printing quietly

Thanks for clarifying how you pulled it of. You are correct, what I was looking for is the automatic temperature control of the inactive/active nozzle around switching nozzles. This not being in place right now has kept me form using S3D for dual extrusion on my UM3. I understand S3D will need time to work out this smart heating/cooling system, hopefully they will be able to integrate it shortly since I really like their slicer

Two excellent posts with loads more detailed info and settings Zwakie... thumbs up! Thanks @Artiz, to learn and share, that's the spirit we all need hu? I'll be sharing future test experiences as they come along, PolyFlex is next on the list (don't know when I will start with that, will definitely be shortly - for sure it will be fun tinkering with that stuff)

There is a search (top right) but it doesn't work all that well so your better of just using google..... Thanks Arjan for pointing that out, I mistakenly thought that was a search function for the site itself; I did not realize it would yield results from the forums as well. And yeah, GIYF:)

Maybe I am completely overlooking it, but I miss a Search function. In my view it would be very convenient to be able to do a global search across all forums.

Update: I have successfully printed 5 low prints without any warping or curling and just using a 10mm inside and outside brim. Model was appr. 17cms x 12cms square and 7.5mm high having not much more than a 2.5mm walls and 6 appr. 1.5cm2 insets of irregular shape. No fillets of cambers anywhere in the model. I thought this a good suspect to get warping, especially on the one long end where there was no inset at all and the wall made a a sharp 90 degree turn), but to my surprise it sticked to the bed really good. Bed: buildtak @ 85C (lightly sprayed with 3DLac) / Nozzle 255C / Speed 35mm/sec / 0.1mm layer height (also first layer and brim!) / Print jerk 15 / Travel jerk 20 (man.... those were long prints considering...!) Prints came out really nice and very accurate dimension-wise. After annealing and cooling down I put them in the freezer for 15 minutes, this made getting it of the bed easy (admitted: the low brim took some work to get rid of completely)

not really a european thing.. i am betting on no. ....not yet (I bet it will be in a few years. Today I heard the first Dutch radio-commercials mentioning "black Friday")

Bob, What would interest me is how you dealt with reducing the temperature to the proper standby-temperature for the material loaded in the inactive extruder (to avoid carbonizing/clogging and the works). Also: how do you manage heating up that inactive nozzle prior to doing an extruder change to avoid waiting for the nozzle to reach extrusion temperature? Can you please share with us how you did this?

Not sure what material you are using (different materials have different shrinkage characteristics), so some general things that helped me a lot getting dimensions right (all line widths that I use are the default widths, except for top/bottom which I 'upped' to .4mm: - print outer wall before inner walls - print infill before walls - inset for outer wall .025mm - get temperature of the nozzle right (too high will introduce minor discrepancies, when dimensions are critical, I use as low temperatures as I can to increase viscosity of the plastic when it's laid down on previous layer. But you have to be careful with lowering the temp since it can have a negative impact on layer bonding. So you will need to experiment with your type of filament to find that sweet spot. One final thing: please realize that the printer is not printing a pure mathematical circle; instead it mimics a circle by using small lines connecting points on the circle. This also slightly reduces ID's. All things combined can indeed lead to a situation where you have to count these things in while doing the design (make ID's a little larger to obtain the ID you want). Edit: Some more ideas that can help improve dimensional accuracy: - use slower print speeds, especially the speeds on outer walls (don't ruin this by using high inner wall speeds though ) - lower print jerk

OK, here is my 'miracle permeable' iPad Mini case mounted behind the panel. Material used is Innofil3D PET, used support was the 123-3D home-brand PVA. Frontview with iPad Mini slide in from the left. The big plug right of the iPad (half visible at the right edge of the picture) is a 2xUSB plug which is held vertical by a 'bump' that is part of the case (see 3rd picture): Front view of this case with no iPad inserted: And finally, a behind-the-scenes peek of the test-fit: The blue part is from a previous prototype and holds the lightning cable firmly in place. The bump underneath this blue part holds the usb-plug nicely vertical plus contains a built-in stain relief for the lightning cable. A little plug not visible on this picture ensure that the lightning plug is not pushed into the strain-relief when the iPad is inserted into the case.

Not quite true at this moment: I agree that I don't have to go the machine and allow access to my Mac every time I start Cura, but every now and again I have to grant access to my (same) Mac again. Don't know why, not a big nuisance, but indeed it would be convenient if the UM3 permanently remembered that access was granted. Small bug perhaps?

So sales are going strong hu? (just kidding) If that indeed is the case, that's fine with me (as long as the temps are correct I'm a happy camper)

Did the upgrade using the menu on UM3's screen itself, so I am assuming it will only get stable versions.... I will check firmware version once current print is ready and update this post with the version currently on the machine. I remember that '20161104' was part of the version, so I am assuming this version was released Nov. 4th?

Two days ago I initiated a firmware upgrade via the menu on my UM3, and I noticed that the colors off the LED's on the nozzles are no longer RED when the associated extruder is hot, nor are they alternating RED/BLUE when cooling down or heating up. I only see this when the actual print has started, in the preparation phase the colors are correct (as per the manuals). Using Cura I checked the temperatures, these are all OK (also for the extruder that is on 'stand-by') without oscillations. I suspect this is just a coding issue in the firmware that only affects the 'color-coding' logic since the machine itself is all that it is supposed to. I am OK with things being this way, but for others this might be problematic, so I thought it would be best to just report it so that UM can fix this.

Just loosening the screwon on the pully did the trick. I heard one shallow click (what I think to be one tooth flipping from the bottom to the top side of the pully) and tension top and bottom are now the same. Next performed the XY-calibration, resulted in 1 notch up for the X. This removed the last little sub-optimal thing on my UM, although after a firmware upgrade I noticed another -again non-critical- thing (but I will that write down in another forum topic). Once again, thank you @neotko for your answers and directions!

+1 I have exactly the same questions and would also love to see separate bridging options in Cura.

I was holding off of designing those holes in because I did not feel like going through a very time-consuming exercise finding out how to make sure every cavity (or eat least most of them) within the infill gets a little 'leak'. Fortunately I discovered this phenomena around the same time and was able to make it to good use

I see, I'll give it a try tomorrow and let you how that works out. Thanks again for educating this 'dummy'