MechDesigner

Tyler, I loaded the file and I got the G-code error, I did notice this, it is part of the file.

Terry, What I do is create some small thin as possible "pillars"(green) to raise my part off the print bed and add "enable support interface" in the support menu this adds a thin layer under your part. there will be support under the flat that is currently on the print bed, but I use a utility knife and it peels right off. Hope this helps, Frank

CCAI I have pretty good luck with CPE and CPE+ but, I need to fill in the holes on the print bed with some material (about .02in) then I trim it out usually my holes on the bed are smaller and they do not want to stick even using 3DLac spray. Also I have better luck when the print time is as short as possible, seams like it gets to hot even after adjusting the temps and fan speed. Try using a larger print tip and see if you have the same problem. I also use a brim 8mm to hold my parts down, looks like you are using a skirt. Regards Frank

I use 3dLac for all printing materials works great,

For adhesion, I meant what do you put on your glass to make the material stick to the glass? I use 3d Lac from Amazon, works to good sometimes, https://www.amazon.com/3d-lac-3D-Lac/dp/B075D7T664/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=3d+lac&qid=1556744460&s=gateway&sr=8-1 you can also try to slow the printer down while it prints the small holes, then speed it up after,

What type of bed adhesion are you using? I have the same problem with small holes, I create a thin material that fills the hole in and drill them out.

Hi Molli I printed several things using CPE and CPE+ sometimes it is easier to print than ABS. I agree with a lot of what Geert says, Except I use 3Dlac spray there is also a new one out "stickyBedz" CPE and CPE+ do flex, So I would consider a stronger material for the critical parts.

Charlies, No I never found out what happened, still puzzled even now that an UM3 took a dive. I hope yours is still working after the dive off the table. Frank

Did you try painters tape? put the tape down a little larger than the parts brim, re-level bed. I used isopropyl alcoholl to whip the sheen off the tape. also I added stick glue to the tape. after the brim is done use more tape to tape the brim down. This is what I did before the 3dlac, also have you tried to print only one part, so far I have had no luck printing multiple parts.

I use 3dlac spray you can find it on amazon. works real good. Do you have the door and top cover for your printer? https://www.amazon.com/3d-lac-3D-Lac/dp/B075D7T664/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1533820227&sr=8-1&keywords=3dlac Frank

you might also want to add more brim around your part, I use 8mm. it will help with adhesion. also check into 3Dlac spray, works great, https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Warping-Printers-ORIGINAL-canNOT/dp/B01BVM54XI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1531502759&sr=8-1&keywords=3dlac+spray

Leo, mine does the same thing, I think it is coming from the boden tube.

GR5, My printer will not do any more diving soon unless it can jump up 1 inch and over retaining 4 boards, I myself do not understand how this can happen, no one was here at the time. The printer does not move that fast to make it jump or slide. The only think I can think of if something got stuck and there was hard movements,, which I do not see happening.

This should get things stirred up , Well Kmanstudios, I will have to argue with you I think the UM3's ganged up on the UM2's because they are newer. My UM2+ took the flying leap off the table shortly after we bought it. Well 3D@AHF, you are not alone, It got damaged the same way yours did with the spool holder and front top

Silvio, I always use painter tape and stick glue on all my prints , for me it minimizes having to keep an eye on the prints as much. I print Ultimaker blue this way with no problems, Regards Frank