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MechDesigner

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Everything posted by MechDesigner

  1. CCAI I have pretty good luck with CPE and CPE+ but, I need to fill in the holes on the print bed with some material (about .02in) then I trim it out usually my holes on the bed are smaller and they do not want to stick even using 3DLac spray. Also I have better luck when the print time is as short as possible, seams like it gets to hot even after adjusting the temps and fan speed. Try using a larger print tip and see if you have the same problem. I also use a brim 8mm to hold my parts down, looks like you are using a skirt. Regards Frank
  2. I use 3dLac for all printing materials works great,
  3. For adhesion, I meant what do you put on your glass to make the material stick to the glass? I use 3d Lac from Amazon, works to good sometimes, https://www.amazon.com/3d-lac-3D-Lac/dp/B075D7T664/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=3d+lac&qid=1556744460&s=gateway&sr=8-1 you can also try to slow the printer down while it prints the small holes, then speed it up after,
  4. What type of bed adhesion are you using? I have the same problem with small holes, I create a thin material that fills the hole in and drill them out.
  5. Hi Molli I printed several things using CPE and CPE+ sometimes it is easier to print than ABS. I agree with a lot of what Geert says, Except I use 3Dlac spray there is also a new one out "stickyBedz" CPE and CPE+ do flex, So I would consider a stronger material for the critical parts.
  6. Charlies, No I never found out what happened, still puzzled even now that an UM3 took a dive. I hope yours is still working after the dive off the table. Frank
  7. Did you try painters tape? put the tape down a little larger than the parts brim, re-level bed. I used isopropyl alcoholl to whip the sheen off the tape. also I added stick glue to the tape. after the brim is done use more tape to tape the brim down. This is what I did before the 3dlac, also have you tried to print only one part, so far I have had no luck printing multiple parts.
  8. I use 3dlac spray you can find it on amazon. works real good. Do you have the door and top cover for your printer? https://www.amazon.com/3d-lac-3D-Lac/dp/B075D7T664/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1533820227&sr=8-1&keywords=3dlac Frank
  9. you might also want to add more brim around your part, I use 8mm. it will help with adhesion. also check into 3Dlac spray, works great, https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Warping-Printers-ORIGINAL-canNOT/dp/B01BVM54XI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1531502759&sr=8-1&keywords=3dlac+spray
  10. Leo, mine does the same thing, I think it is coming from the boden tube.
  11. GR5, My printer will not do any more diving soon unless it can jump up 1 inch and over retaining 4 boards, I myself do not understand how this can happen, no one was here at the time. The printer does not move that fast to make it jump or slide. The only think I can think of if something got stuck and there was hard movements,, which I do not see happening.
  12. This should get things stirred up , Well Kmanstudios, I will have to argue with you I think the UM3's ganged up on the UM2's because they are newer. My UM2+ took the flying leap off the table shortly after we bought it. Well 3D@AHF, you are not alone, It got damaged the same way yours did with the spool holder and front top
  13. Silvio, I always use painter tape and stick glue on all my prints , for me it minimizes having to keep an eye on the prints as much. I print Ultimaker blue this way with no problems, Regards Frank
  14. Zeki, I am no expert, but to me it looks like it is not sticking to the build plate. I agree the paper is to thick. Maybe try and put painter tape down and re-level the bed. I use painters tape on all materials I print, even PLA. and spray with isoprol alcohol. I would also start with the 195c print temp
  15. DrSmiley, I take a cut line in the part that would make it easy to put it together it does not have to be in the center, what works best for your print. I usually extrude cut thru the center of the part to remove the other half in SW, make a STL file, then move the cutting tool in SW to the other side and remove that material and make a STL file. You can if you want place both parts on the print bed area and slide one off the bed do the slicing, save off the Gcode as the left side then slide that one off the bed and bring the other side onto the bed and save the Gcode under a different
  16. I use painters tape and spray Isophrol alcohol to remove the sheen, then I put down a good layer of stick glue on the tape where the print goes and spread with a towel so it is not clumpy. I also slow the speed down to 90% until it gets started then back to 100%. Make sure your bed is level. Also if you can use a larger print head it will print easier and faster, all I use is the .6 & .8
  17. Dan, I think the .012 is not showing up because it is to small for the .4mm tip? Frank
  18. I know you are using nylon. I have not tried it yet. I have pretty good luck with ABS on painters tape as long as I wipe the top of the tape with isaphrol alcohol, but with CPE it will not stick to the tape I had to add glue stick to the tape, kind of thick and lightly spread with a paper towel. I start the speed at about 80% and after the second layer starts I go back to 100%. Also after the brim is done I tape the edges of the brim down. for larger parts, good luck, the larger the prints easier they warp.
  19. Version 1.0

    789 downloads

    Newco coffee cup stencil
  20. Version 1.0

    740 downloads

    This is a tool to remove a switch from a sheet metal panel
  21. Version 1.0

    801 downloads

    My first post new to 3d printing. My name is Frank I work in ST. Charles MO. I received our Ultimaker 2+Extended last Monday. I am impressed with most of the print quality. The Cura software is easy to use. After learning a lot great information this forum. I have a few good prints, but the bottoms of the parts are very rough. I ran the part on its side and all the bottom surfaces are pretty rough even where there was no support, I used support where touching the print bed. If I would have used the support everywhere I think the support between the ribs would be hard to remove and wou
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