MechDesigner

Tyler, I loaded the file and I got the G-code error, I did notice this, it is part of the file.

Terry, What I do is create some small thin as possible "pillars"(green) to raise my part off the print bed and add "enable support interface" in the support menu this adds a thin layer under your part. there will be support under the flat that is currently on the print bed, but I use a utility knife and it peels right off. Hope this helps, Frank

CCAI I have pretty good luck with CPE and CPE+ but, I need to fill in the holes on the print bed with some material (about .02in) then I trim it out usually my holes on the bed are smaller and they do not want to stick even using 3DLac spray. Also I have better luck when the print time is as short as possible, seams like it gets to hot even after adjusting the temps and fan speed. Try using a larger print tip and see if you have the same problem. I also use a brim 8mm to hold my parts down, looks like you are using a skirt. Regards Frank

I use 3dLac for all printing materials works great,

For adhesion, I meant what do you put on your glass to make the material stick to the glass? I use 3d Lac from Amazon, works to good sometimes, https://www.amazon.com/3d-lac-3D-Lac/dp/B075D7T664/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=3d+lac&qid=1556744460&s=gateway&sr=8-1 you can also try to slow the printer down while it prints the small holes, then speed it up after,

What type of bed adhesion are you using? I have the same problem with small holes, I create a thin material that fills the hole in and drill them out.

Hi Molli I printed several things using CPE and CPE+ sometimes it is easier to print than ABS. I agree with a lot of what Geert says, Except I use 3Dlac spray there is also a new one out "stickyBedz" CPE and CPE+ do flex, So I would consider a stronger material for the critical parts.

Charlies, No I never found out what happened, still puzzled even now that an UM3 took a dive. I hope yours is still working after the dive off the table. Frank

Did you try painters tape? put the tape down a little larger than the parts brim, re-level bed. I used isopropyl alcoholl to whip the sheen off the tape. also I added stick glue to the tape. after the brim is done use more tape to tape the brim down. This is what I did before the 3dlac, also have you tried to print only one part, so far I have had no luck printing multiple parts.

I use 3dlac spray you can find it on amazon. works real good. Do you have the door and top cover for your printer? https://www.amazon.com/3d-lac-3D-Lac/dp/B075D7T664/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1533820227&sr=8-1&keywords=3dlac Frank

you might also want to add more brim around your part, I use 8mm. it will help with adhesion. also check into 3Dlac spray, works great, https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Warping-Printers-ORIGINAL-canNOT/dp/B01BVM54XI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1531502759&sr=8-1&keywords=3dlac+spray

Leo, mine does the same thing, I think it is coming from the boden tube.

GR5, My printer will not do any more diving soon unless it can jump up 1 inch and over retaining 4 boards, I myself do not understand how this can happen, no one was here at the time. The printer does not move that fast to make it jump or slide. The only think I can think of if something got stuck and there was hard movements,, which I do not see happening.

This should get things stirred up , Well Kmanstudios, I will have to argue with you I think the UM3's ganged up on the UM2's because they are newer. My UM2+ took the flying leap off the table shortly after we bought it. Well 3D@AHF, you are not alone, It got damaged the same way yours did with the spool holder and front top

Silvio, I always use painter tape and stick glue on all my prints , for me it minimizes having to keep an eye on the prints as much. I print Ultimaker blue this way with no problems, Regards Frank

Zeki, I am no expert, but to me it looks like it is not sticking to the build plate. I agree the paper is to thick. Maybe try and put painter tape down and re-level the bed. I use painters tape on all materials I print, even PLA. and spray with isoprol alcohol. I would also start with the 195c print temp

DrSmiley, I take a cut line in the part that would make it easy to put it together it does not have to be in the center, what works best for your print. I usually extrude cut thru the center of the part to remove the other half in SW, make a STL file, then move the cutting tool in SW to the other side and remove that material and make a STL file. You can if you want place both parts on the print bed area and slide one off the bed do the slicing, save off the Gcode as the left side then slide that one off the bed and bring the other side onto the bed and save the Gcode under a different name. If you are going to glue it together on the back side create gluing tabs or you can use the brim material to use as gluing tabs. what type of glue all depend on what material you are printing with. hope this helps

This approach never worked for me. It always lifts the brim together with the tape from the glass plate (even with very large pieces of tape). I assume the success rate depends on the geometry of the part. Or is there a special trick? Yes painters tape, mine usually pulls up on the back right of the part and I tape the three sides, smaller parts are pretty easy (2-3inches), larger parts are challenge, using a larger print tip is really the only tip for larger parts so they print as fast as possible. Yea, before I used painter tape on the glass it pulled the tape up. Maybe taping the brim on the tape that's on the glass is stronger. I have had larger parts that the brim was taped down and the tape and brim was stuck but the part pulled away from the brim as it warped. The tape I put on the glass is about an inch larger than the part.

I have pretty good luck with ABS and PC on painters tape as long as I wipe and dab dry the top of the tape with isophrol alcohol, I add glue stick to the tape, kind of thick and lightly spread with a paper towel. I start the speed at about 90% and after the brim is done I go back to 100%speed. After the brim is done I tape the edges of the brim down with painter tape. Also have to have the front enclosure as mentioned,

I use painters tape and spray Isophrol alcohol to remove the sheen, then I put down a good layer of stick glue on the tape where the print goes and spread with a towel so it is not clumpy. I also slow the speed down to 90% until it gets started then back to 100%. Make sure your bed is level. Also if you can use a larger print head it will print easier and faster, all I use is the .6 & .8

for Nylon and PC, I use painter tape and spray isopropyl alcohol and whip it down, then I use stick glue and put it down where the print is going to go, then use a paper towel over my finger to smooth it down. Then after the brim is done and the print starts I put painters tape over the brim to stick it to the tape on the glass, around the back and sides of the part because that is where my prints start to warp. I have very good luck without warping on smaller parts, the longer the print the easier it is to warp. HTH Frank

Dan, I think the .012 is not showing up because it is to small for the .4mm tip? Frank

Tom, I follow the UI, I mostly have problems with materials like ABS, PC I usually get a blob and a string the length of the boden tube. yes Ultimaker filament

I do not have an answer, but I do have the same problem when the material retracts it leaves a small clump and a long string of material attached. So I am also looking for an answer to this. Thanks Frank

Mark, Do you have to use the .4mm tip? it will reduce your print time by about half with a larger tip. A large part like that I would use the .8mm tip. What might happen on a 2 day print, is all that support will act like a heat sink and the results are not good, I had a 2 day print that was doing well till about half way thru and the center collapsed about .25in. That part was only about 3 inches tall. I even created my own supports on the sides and center with thicker material. This is with ABS.