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Everything posted by tmostad

  1. Re you going to manufacture and sell this? If so then I am interested.
  2. Count me as one of the one percenters. I think there are a whole bunch of us not complaining which is contributing to the illusion that very few are having issues. I think that since we paid a premium for our printer we trust that Ultimaker will make things right. I am starting to think that trust may be misplaced. Rethinking my purchase.
  3. While the above post is slightly OT, I do agree that the rollover seems unnecessary. If the list was really long I can see the benefit but all of the menus are short and to be able to spin the wheel clockwise very quickly to return reliably to the previous menu would speed up navigation for me.
  4. To me it seems that bed leveling has set the bed too close to the nozzle which prevents extrusion - at least that is how it appears in my case.
  5. The latest firmware seems to work differently with the Bondtech QR feeders on my 3E (with required value changes applied to firmware). Anyone else seeing this? I asked Bondtech to take a look.
  6. Bump! Nobody answered JohnInOttawa's question so I thought I'd give it a bump because I have the same question: I also presume, since cura can't handle 0.6 AA yet, the gcode to program an AA hardcore to 0.6 would just screw stuff up Is that correct? Maybe it will be a moot point when Cura supports the CC hot end? Also, I just installed Bondtech QR extruders and printed ColorFabb XT-CF20 with a .6 mm ruby nozzle with line width set to .15 mm, The results are good but I think I am seeing just a bit of over-extrusion. Anyone else seeing that?
  7. I purchased a spare feeder for exactly this reason. As long as there isn't something I am missing then I guess I can live with it the way it works (as long as I remember to override the error instead of blankly staring at the printer wondering why it isn't printing...)
  8. I have a UM3E and a Solex Hardcore 0.4 steel nozzle printing XT-CF20 using a recipe I found somewhere in this forum. It prints beautifully! However when I send a print to the printer it complains that the material is not compatible with the Hardcore and every time I have to manually override the error to get it to print. The print core is set to AA 0.4 and the profile is custom for the XT-CF20. The material on the printer is set to nylon. I must have set something wrong?
  9. Yes and no. The firmware version that just download is 4.2.5. Is that the same as 4.2 as described in the News?
  10. Pardon my ignorance but multiple times I have started my UM3E printer to see a "there is new firmware" message. As I am apt to do I usually install it but I am always curious as to what has changed or been added but when I come to this forum I typically cannot find anything resembling "release notes" except when it is a major release. Perhaps I am missing something obvious and hopefully you can point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance.
  11. I did an auto level then as the printer printed I adjusted the back screw to lower the plate to get a fairly even layer. I then stopped the print removed the print and did another auto level. Again the front of the printer is fine with a gradient to the back of the printer where the layer is nonexistent. Auto leveling is simply broken on my machine. Not sure where to go with this.
  12. When I auto level the bed on my UM3E the head is always closer on the back, so close that it actually touches the bed and the extrusion is nearly nonexistent. The front is perfect but the print is a perfect gradient front to back. I've noticed that the rear spring is very much less stiff than the front two. Could that be the cause? Any other ideas?
  13. It doesn't snap in. It is held in place with the arm that guides the filament. Not a super positive feel to retention but it works. BTW - Due to the way the arm is designed it matters which way the filament is wound on the spool of some spools. For example, the spool design plus the direction of wind means you'll have to rig up some way to use Matterhacker's Pro filaments. I don't know about the others. It would have been nice the design was more universal.
  14. Cold you make a picture of that? is it sanded or what is it like? If it was sanded - wouldn't this result in an feature like a buildtak mounted? Here is a picture. It shows a close up with a nickel on the glass to help you understand the scale. The surface is smooth-textured as you can see. I don't know anything about buildtak.
  15. I tried to lessen the heat gradient on the build glass by putting a sheet of .008" copper under the glass but as I feared it is simply too thin to make any difference. The gradient is still 7+ degrees C center of plate to 1 inch from edge. Is there a spec for this for the printer? Might I just have an out-of-spec heating element?
  16. I don't know about bad batches or whatever. I know I posted some pictures here that clearly showed serious inconsistencies in the first layer thickness that no one suggested that I might have bad glass. I assumed what I was seeing was normal. I then purchased some borosilicate glass having heard that is was better. No, it was the same or maybe a little worse. I can say with certainty that the Neoceram is really flat -- not perfect of course but flat enough that auto-leveling actually works. I wonder about warpage that might be caused by the clips pulling the glass onto the non-flat aluminum plate but at this point it seems to be minimal. My biggest concern is the temperature gradient caused by uneven heating by the heating element. I have more experimenting to see if I can at least lessen that.
  17. I doubt this has anything to do with convection cooling. I took the plate off and stood it on edge for a series of pictures. The gradient was still quite visible in the pictures. I believe the heating element is not of great quality. 5 to 7 degrees of difference over just a few inches is really a lot. I have considered trying thin copper foil under the glass to see if it makes any difference. Copper has 2X the thermal conductivity of aluminum (or aluminium for some of you). Thin copper may not make a significant difference but it is cheap and easy to try. Now if I just had a diamond plate... It has 5X the heat flow of copper. Wonder when that upgrade will be coming out?Oh yeah, I have tried the ABS slurry and Wolfbite for ABS as well. ABS shows really serious warping and detachment from the glass, much worse than PLA (I made a front door but that had minimal benefit). Next I am going to try blue tape with PLA to see if it helps.
  18. As you can see from the pictures I posted, it didn't do much if anything to even out the temperature gradients. I was seeing 5 to 7 degrees before and about the same with the black glass.
  19. Plus shipping which they seem to want to charge a lot for. Fortunately they are driving distance away for me. If bed flatness isn't an issue for you then spending the extra money won't net you much but if it causes you the kind of problems I was seeing then $75 on top of the $3500 or so doesn't seem excessive. In my opinion, this glass should be original equipment for this printer.
  20. I have tried enclosing the printer and if anything, it makes the problem worse.
  21. Where did you buy it online? onedayglass.com
  22. I have both a UM3e and a Laser Engraver/Cutter (Epilog Legend 32 with a 40 Watt CO2 laser). I have yet to combine the two tools to make anything but I haven't owned the 3D printer very long and still struggle with trying to make it do what I need.
  23. I received the Neoceram glass I ordered on-line. Unfortunately they cut it wrong (which you see in one of the pictures) but fortunately it was in the width dimension which means it hangs over the bed on the sides a bit but the clips still work. The black Neoceram is 5/32" thick which is about .001" thinner than 4mm so it fits the clips perfectly. One thing the website doesn't say is that the back has a fine grid texture. I installed the glass and heated the bed to 100 degrees C. Here are the IR photos: You can see that there is still a 5+ degree gradient on the print bed. I then did an auto-level of the bed and for the first time it worked for me. The first layer was amazingly consistent. I believe this proves the glass is a lot flatter than the stock glass. I then tried printing the large model (in Matterhackers PLA with the default Cura recipe) which has been giving me fits. On all previous prints the back left corner of the raft comes detached from the bed and curls up; the front left to a lesser degree and the right two corners remain mostly flat and attached. I use Wolfbite on the bed. Unfortunately the exact same thing happened again. I got about 40 layers into the print and the raft again detached. I'll post a picture. BTW - I see this phenomenon with ABS also but even much worse. Any ideas would be welcomed.
  24. I took IR pictures of the back of the aluminum print bed base and the gradient was clearly caused by uneven heat from the heating element. Here is an example: I have often considered some kind of heat spreader but haven't yet come up with an idea that I like. I am hoping the glass will make a difference.
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