tmostad
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3D Prints
Posts posted by tmostad
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Perhaps the solution to my problem is to remove the profile stored on the printer and then redownload it. How do I do that?
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I get the above error message when I try to print and don't know how to fix it. I override the configuration to get my UM3E to print the file but from what I can see it shouldn't be an error.
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Re you going to manufacture and sell this? If so then I am interested.
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Count me as one of the one percenters. I think there are a whole bunch of us not complaining which is contributing to the illusion that very few are having issues. I think that since we paid a premium for our printer we trust that Ultimaker will make things right. I am starting to think that trust may be misplaced. Rethinking my purchase.
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29 minutes ago, N9ssham said:
Thanks for posting the hot fix Maht, it is comforting to know you are aware of some issues and are working on them. I have a request on the UM3 menu navigation routine that would be really helpful to me. Currently when the end of a menu is reached the list rolls back to the beginning as one keeps rotating. Do to the sometimes sporadic nature of navigating with the encoder wheel I find it difficult to navigate quickly up and down the menu structure. Is there a way to NOT have the menu list roll over? If one rotates to the right quickly it would stop at the last menu item, and rotate to the left and it would stop at the first menu item. If the last menu item is "return" it would allow me navagate the menu structure much more efficiently.
While the above post is slightly OT, I do agree that the rollover seems unnecessary. If the list was really long I can see the benefit but all of the menus are short and to be able to spin the wheel clockwise very quickly to return reliably to the previous menu would speed up navigation for me.
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To me it seems that bed leveling has set the bed too close to the nozzle which prevents extrusion - at least that is how it appears in my case.
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The latest firmware seems to work differently with the Bondtech QR feeders on my 3E (with required value changes applied to firmware). Anyone else seeing this? I asked Bondtech to take a look.
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Bump!
Nobody answered JohnInOttawa's question so I thought I'd give it a bump because I have the same question:
I also presume, since cura can't handle 0.6 AA yet, the gcode to program an AA hardcore to 0.6 would just screw stuff up
Is that correct?
Maybe it will be a moot point when Cura supports the CC hot end?
Also, I just installed Bondtech QR extruders and printed ColorFabb XT-CF20 with a .6 mm ruby nozzle with line width set to .15 mm, The results are good but I think I am seeing just a bit of over-extrusion. Anyone else seeing that?
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I purchased a spare feeder for exactly this reason. As long as there isn't something I am missing then I guess I can live with it the way it works (as long as I remember to override the error instead of blankly staring at the printer wondering why it isn't printing...)
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I have a UM3E and a Solex Hardcore 0.4 steel nozzle printing XT-CF20 using a recipe I found somewhere in this forum. It prints beautifully! However when I send a print to the printer it complains that the material is not compatible with the Hardcore and every time I have to manually override the error to get it to print. The print core is set to AA 0.4 and the profile is custom for the XT-CF20. The material on the printer is set to nylon. I must have set something wrong?
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Deleted. Issue resolved..
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Yes and no. The firmware version that just download is 4.2.5. Is that the same as 4.2 as described in the News?
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Pardon my ignorance but multiple times I have started my UM3E printer to see a "there is new firmware" message. As I am apt to do I usually install it but I am always curious as to what has changed or been added but when I come to this forum I typically cannot find anything resembling "release notes" except when it is a major release. Perhaps I am missing something obvious and hopefully you can point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance.
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I did an auto level then as the printer printed I adjusted the back screw to lower the plate to get a fairly even layer. I then stopped the print removed the print and did another auto level. Again the front of the printer is fine with a gradient to the back of the printer where the layer is nonexistent. Auto leveling is simply broken on my machine. Not sure where to go with this.
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When I auto level the bed on my UM3E the head is always closer on the back, so close that it actually touches the bed and the extrusion is nearly nonexistent. The front is perfect but the print is a perfect gradient front to back. I've noticed that the rear spring is very much less stiff than the front two. Could that be the cause? Any other ideas?
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It doesn't snap in. It is held in place with the arm that guides the filament. Not a super positive feel to retention but it works.
BTW - Due to the way the arm is designed it matters which way the filament is wound on the spool of some spools. For example, the spool design plus the direction of wind means you'll have to rig up some way to use Matterhacker's Pro filaments. I don't know about the others. It would have been nice the design was more universal.
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One thing the website doesn't say is that the back has a fine grid texture.
Cold you make a picture of that?
is it sanded or what is it like?
If it was sanded - wouldn't this result in an feature like a buildtak mounted?
Here is a picture. It shows a close up with a nickel on the glass to help you understand the scale. The surface is smooth-textured as you can see. I don't know anything about buildtak.
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I tried to lessen the heat gradient on the build glass by putting a sheet of .008" copper under the glass but as I feared it is simply too thin to make any difference. The gradient is still 7+ degrees C center of plate to 1 inch from edge. Is there a spec for this for the printer? Might I just have an out-of-spec heating element?
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I don't know about bad batches or whatever. I know I posted some pictures here that clearly showed serious inconsistencies in the first layer thickness that no one suggested that I might have bad glass. I assumed what I was seeing was normal. I then purchased some borosilicate glass having heard that is was better. No, it was the same or maybe a little worse. I can say with certainty that the Neoceram is really flat -- not perfect of course but flat enough that auto-leveling actually works. I wonder about warpage that might be caused by the clips pulling the glass onto the non-flat aluminum plate but at this point it seems to be minimal. My biggest concern is the temperature gradient caused by uneven heating by the heating element. I have more experimenting to see if I can at least lessen that.
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I doubt this has anything to do with convection cooling. I took the plate off and stood it on edge for a series of pictures. The gradient was still quite visible in the pictures. I believe the heating element is not of great quality. 5 to 7 degrees of difference over just a few inches is really a lot. I have considered trying thin copper foil under the glass to see if it makes any difference. Copper has 2X the thermal conductivity of aluminum (or aluminium for some of you). Thin copper may not make a significant difference but it is cheap and easy to try. Now if I just had a diamond plate... It has 5X the heat flow of copper. Wonder when that upgrade will be coming out?I guess you are always going to have a temperature difference in the plates. A huge temp difference between glass (+60°C, here almost 100°C) and room air (~20°C) causes a strong upwards draft: it will pull in cold air from the sides, and blow off hot air upwards in the middle of the plate. Like the "thermals" outside in nature, in which glider planes keep circling: they can be strong enough to lift a plane from 500m to 1000m in a few minutes. So that will cool down the sides much more than the middle. But the distribution is pretty nice and even, I think.
If this ceramic glass would cause less warping due to temp differences, that would be good for accuracy, especially when printing in the corners of the bed.
Concerning the prints coming off: have you tried different bonding methods? Like dilluted Elmer's wood glue (gr5-method: 1 part glue in 10 parts water), 3DLAC, strong hairspray (neotko-method: spray on tissue, wipe glass plate), my salt method (for PLA only: wipe glass plate with tissue moistened with salt water), or ABS-aceton slurry (ABS-only)?
Normally, some of these bonding methods should work well. Otherwise there may still be something else going on, such as the build plate sitting too far away from the bed?
Oh yeah, I have tried the ABS slurry and Wolfbite for ABS as well. ABS shows really serious warping and detachment from the glass, much worse than PLA (I made a front door but that had minimal benefit). Next I am going to try blue tape with PLA to see if it helps.
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As you can see from the pictures I posted, it didn't do much if anything to even out the temperature gradients. I was seeing 5 to 7 degrees before and about the same with the black glass.I was curious about the black glass plate too, I understand it did not really contribute in evening out the temperature or did it?
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Plus shipping which they seem to want to charge a lot for. Fortunately they are driving distance away for me. If bed flatness isn't an issue for you then spending the extra money won't net you much but if it causes you the kind of problems I was seeing then $75 on top of the $3500 or so doesn't seem excessive. In my opinion, this glass should be original equipment for this printer.Great Googly Moogly...that is $54.00 USD for one! Ack!! LOL
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Do you have your print space enclosed at all? Until I receive my advanced kit, I tape up bubble wrap on the door opening. I do not (at this time) put a tent over the top.
I have tried enclosing the printer and if anything, it makes the problem worse.
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I received the Neoceram glass I ordered on-line. Unfortunately they cut it wrong (which you see in one of the pictures) but fortunately it was in the width dimension which means it hangs over the bed on the sides a bit but the clips still work. The black Neoceram is 5/32" thick which is about .001" thinner than 4mm so it fits the clips perfectly. One thing the website doesn't say is that the back has a fine grid texture. I installed the glass and heated the bed to 100 degrees C. Here are the IR photos:
Where did you buy it online?
onedayglass.com
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Print material configuration change error
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
Cura 5.3 seems to have solved this issue.