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BasHamer

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About BasHamer

  • Birthday 04/29/1980

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  1. it is actually doing well with PLA & ABS; my only issue has been with ABS/PVA setups after the PVA had been in the holder for a month :/ The figures are my Shadows of Brimstone set, easily accessible for play; I so far have not ventured into printing figures.
  2. Finished my enclosure; I had ideas about fans and temperature controls but there is no reason to build that in as I don't run into any issues. I did add a Nest remote camera so I can check on progress remotely, but so far there have been few failed prints. I do have some humidity issues w/ PVA, but the enclosure is unlikely to fix that (unless I want to seal it to prevent humidity from entering). The frame is made from 1515 framing and the footprint is pretty small; the telescoping rails on the drawer means that I can easily get to the spools. It is anchored to the floor and ceiling and that prevents any possible tipping. The door is amber as I don't want all the blue light spilling into my home at night, and it looks great, if a little 80's.
  3. Similar issues here, my prime tower snaps after some time. To begin there is crap building up on one side of the tower, then it finally snaps when it is caught on a head and it builds a mess (usually also covering the print heads, that is a far bigger issue.) Trying a non- primer tower version now, I did one before but I'm worried I did a crappy job cleaning the head before hand and the PVA head got clogged.
  4. yup, that was it. a red little square for that would rock.
  5. It fits in both dimensions, but not both dimensions combined :/ good good bad I printed this thing on my previous ultimaker 3e; but for this one it does not like it one bit. Is there a way to turn on more detailed messages, or a way to highlight what does not fit?
  6. yeah head swaps don't seem to succeed all that well :( the goal was pain orange, but the black head did not retract right (exact same issue as before. black is the right head. I'll contact fbrc8
  7. cura looked good, it looks like the black printer head was never retracted when it was printing in orange. the length of D is ~18.8mm, and the part where D goes towards the top is 18.8 mm from the orange running by the side. This also explains C as it plowed in and out trough the support structure in the extension of the orange part. I'll re-try printing something more involved in 2 materials tomorrow.
  8. I'll do that, I'm also going to see what the spacing between D & F is because maybe the head just didn't retract. That could also explain C; the right head was black, left was orange.
  9. other info, it calibrated before the run (it is set to daily) And it started a new print (1 material print and a 2nd material for support; same materials that so far is looking flawless. But this one had only one material change.
  10. re-post, it was in the wrong topic So here is the desired [/media-thumb] the settings outcome (before abort) When I started hearing weird noises and saw the plate screws flex, I had a good idea that this thing went south. the print is as you see it now. The printer head was around F during the flexing. The outside rim looks great; the second material line is also perfect. Non the less it gouged trough this material @B (slightly) and @C (with a vengeance) it gouged again @D There is a lot wrong with my print, and I realize that lettering the way I did it might not be all that good an idea, but that doesn't explain why the head decided to bury itself in the bed on multiple occasions. Are there some settings I need to adjust to get the head to lift off from the plate? anyone have any suggestions on what to improve to make 2 materials work for me? some other notes: E has grooves A has small scrap on top of the material Both initial print blobs that it put onto the plate were removed; and did not get dragged into the print. F looks like part of the print got loose and migrated, this does not explain the gouging at B, C & D only around F did I have some loose material C looks like it is a drag in and a drag out side by side. I think that it is something that happens as part of the nozzle change, as all drags are in that direction. I'll re-try it tomorrow in a reverse orientation to see if the same drags show up.
  11. the drawer is working really well, it is smooth enough that I can move it while printing without any concern. it has been a fun project to work on.
  12. same happened for me, pulled out the orange and some black scrap came out with it
  13. hey I have possible a different knocking issue, mine is definitely feed related. a few things to help people trouble shoot. Create a large (6") round disc and add a skirt. -If your tics are constant then it is feed related. - if your ticks speed up and slow down then it is compensating for a plane that is offset, continue to the next test. Create a large (6") square, add another skirt - if ticks happen only on one of the directions then you have a belt issue (or atleast something isolated to that axis) - if it happens on both directions and it slows down and speeds up along the x-y directions then it is a z offset it is compensating for, try and level your build plate. no reason to even complete these prints, you just use it to lay a few lines of the skirt while figuring out the ticking sound.
  14. well I can rule that option out; 1. it started mid run (6 hrs in). 2. the ticks do not change in speed as it goes around a circle; if it was a z correction then the z offset should follow a sine as it goes around the circle, and at the peek and valley there would be fewer corrections. 3. it jumps from one end of the model to another w/o any ticks if it is not extruding. My ticks follow the amount of material, it ticks faster when building the outside walls. and slower when building the inside support structures.
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