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  1. Due to the sapphire or the ruby tips on the nozzles, this makes the nozzle tips almost as tuff as diamonds, so it doesn't wear out due to very abrassive materials like Carbon-Fibre filaments, or prototype materials (which i do test sometimes). Something like carbon-fibre can destroy the brass nozzle tip within 30-50 continious hours of printing. While this tip should allow you to keep on printing for probably a few hundered hours with abrasive materials. And if you print with only your standard filaments the nozzle could easily last you a few years, so they called it endless. I Just tested the 0.2mm ruby nozzle, and the printer had no problems with it's active leveling. In the next few days I'll try a small detailed print with it.
  2. It's been a while since I posted anything. But hopefully, i'll have some more free time in the next few weeks to review and test some new parts I just received. I just got the new 3dSolex Hardcore7 as a second HardCore. So that i can do multi-material printing on the UM3 with both HardCore nozzles. This model 7 HardCore came with the new printcore holder to simplify the nozzle change process. And the other main upgrade i noticed is the quality of the new plastic body, which by the looks of it is now SLS printed (the Plastic Sintering process) which produces better overall tolances and better Higher temperature stability. I definitly noticed it now fits very well into the printercore slot. These are definitly very nice upgrades to the existing HardCore printcores. I've also bought the new Super-Slip Bowden tubes to upgrade the existing ones on my UM3. They definity appear to have a much better quality to them than the originals. The only difference is that they aren't transparent like the Ultimaker Bowden Tubes, but that shouldn't be a problem for me. The Last Part i also ordered and recieved are 5 endless saphirre/ruby nozzles (different nozzle sizes), But the build quality on them is superb to the point that i really don't want to use them. (I know eventually i'll have to test and use them). I've attached some pictures of the units, and hopefully in the next few weeks i'll test the endless nozzles with some Abrasive materials.
  3. Yes and No, I prefer the hollow build tower in Cura Beta instead. It reduces materials wasted, and at the same time it can use the inside to scrap any oozing material from the nozzles. If you build a pyramid type of tower, I don't think it works so well. Plus I know it's a cheat, but I've tried Scotch Permanent Glue Stick on only the back corner when I need to print the cleaning tower, and it seems to hold it nicely for me.
  4. I agree with Neotko. call ultimaker. its very easy to damage the printcore block.
  5. what filament did you use. thats not a standard ultimaker filament color. and what was the settings in the printer, and cura? it looks like a very bad nozzle leak from printcore1 before trying to fix this, phone ultimaker and ask them. again it looks like a leak from the heating block of printcore 1. cleaning this might damage a printcore. you can remove the whole printcore block out. But check with ultimaker first.
  6. well you could tell us your filaments you are using, and what is programmed in the machine, then we can slice a small model for you and try sending it to you so you can test it. If it prints, then there is something wrong in your setup. If it doesn't print, but it prints on our printers, then there is something wrong with your printer, or you need to update your firmware.
  7. well i checked my normal HardCore nozzles dimentions with a micrometer, and they were actually very accurate (for the whole body, and the tip only). The max error i found was about 0.03mm that is 30 microns. I just tested doing a fast print with a 0.4mm nozzle today, and then i changed the nozzle to the 0.6mm, and started another print without a calibration, and it printed fine. So the previous calibration was okay after the nozzle change....(don't forget to change the nozzle settings in simplify3d) But i agree with gr5, that is be careful that you don't cross-thread the nozzles, or if you don't fully fasten them in. And logically you won't need a calibration until you have a wornout nozzle. And again i also agree with Neotko as well regarding the beauty of changing print cores quickly. But for me i want to buildup a nozzle collection of (1xHardcore multi noozle for all normal jobs), (1xEHT Hardcore again multi nozzle for special filaments that require very high heat and can be abrasive). These two will replace my current two AA cores. Which reduces the number of printcores i need to only two, to cover most of my printing habbits. As for the BB core, i might modify that aswell when it gets wornout, to make it nozzle swappable, but only to change the nozzle to another the same size so i don't need to replace the whole printcore after it gets clogged or fully wornout.
  8. if the printcores are manufactored properly and have the same depth. then they should have the same z calibration. so no need to do a 2nd calibration. but i suppose better be safe than sorry. Dunno, and probably @ultiarjan knows more, but if you change nozzles I bet you might need to recalibrate x/y/z (that's 20mins procedure). But I could be wrong. Z for sure, XY probably not, but changing nozzles is more time consuming vs changing a core, since I would always do it heated, I would try to stick to using the same nozzle on a hardcore, f.e. a 0.6 on a hardcore and 0.4 on UM core. Also because you want to make sure the hardcore is not leaking.
  9. haven't gotten the printcore yet, i hope to first test it with ABS, then PC. But i want to find a way to change the max temp in the printer. Also you can change nozzles on this model, so i can hopefully choose the nozzles i want for the print job, instead of having multiple printcores for each nozzle size.
  10. is the file .gcode extension. have you setup cura with the correct filaments and printcores as your ultimaker. is your print too big. (bigger than the print area) these are some of the issues i assume that could happen
  11. I agree with you there Neotko. But for me the main problem is i also tend to test proto-filaments which can be brittle or too flexible. And i prefer for the brittle stuff to produce the filaments in 1.75mm instead of 3mm, it makes it easier to use, and less likely to break inside the bowden tube. Plus if the material goes through any expansion after production before printing i can still feed it through the 3mm bowden tube, and just adjust the material thickenss in the slicer software. As for the indirect path in the extruder system i guess it's there for the purpose of being able to swap printcores. But still what stops an individual fitting a removable adaptor from the top to make it a continuous tube if you end up using 1.75 mm instead of 3mm for the whole installation. Probably you would have some problems in retractions, or heat transfers from the hotend, but other than that i can't think of any other issues. I like the UM3 because by the time we manage to test any new designs which requires specially made custom filaments it takes forever to do it on the Statasys Object printers (too expensive to fix if you break it), while i can advance alot quicker using the Ultimaker or any other Filament based printer.
  12. Well almost true. And by the way i really like the ideas, and the mods you make for your printer. I don't mind testing the Zero-gravity extruder on the UM3. But i can already see that the design will need me to change the mounting of the cable on the cores block. And will only work for a single extruder setup, and not for a dual extruder (because of the extension torque shaft). And i'm also in the process of changing and testing a 1.75mm conversion from Solex for their printcore. (custom settings in cura allow you to change diameter of the filament, so it's only an issue with the mechanisms on the printer).
  13. Hi all! I just started using the HardCore on my UM3. I now need to work with very high temperatures, and I am ordering an EHT core which is guaranteed to 375C continuous. My question is, how can I make the UM3 allow me to set such temperature? Does anyone have experience with this?
  14. Hi, The settings are relatively the same as what is posted on the website. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/22235-how-to-print-with-ultimaker-tpu-95a I'm using it a lot. I made a profile for it in Cura Beta version. But don't forget to override the settings of your printer when your sending it through the network. (it always asks me about this). Another problem is that because it's a custom setting in Cura, you lose all the print profiles (fast/draft/normal/hi). So you have to setup your print through the custom settings. I do just load the Ultimaker ABS settings sometimes (not recommended) and it did print with that without any problems, but the temperature of the core for ABS is 5 degress higher than the recommended, and the bed temperature is also higher, and moset likely the retraction settings are different aswell. The only real problem i have had with this filament type is that i wished that the UM3 had a direct drive extruder, or atleast an upgrade. the filament is flexible and i've had it once get stuck in the bowden tube. If there is an upgrade for the printer, then it would make a great printer even better. Hope this info helps
  15. Hi, Any news of an upgrade to change both or a single UM3 extruder to direct drive for 1.75mm filament. I need the printer to be able to handle special filaments like ninja-flex, or any other proto-type filament i'm testing?
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