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DLMeyer

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  1. Thanks DidierKlein So if one happened to have a spare print core laying around, one could possibly machine a replacement block for the standard one and incorporate a interchangable nozzle/or fixed nozzle in whichever size you prefer? If you have an AA 0.4 print core, could you modify it to be a AA 0.25 print core?
  2. Hi dancorrigan I have an UM2 and it seems that since the UM3 was benchmarked as the dual machine, all development on having dual extrusion on the UM2 ceased. This is a pity, because what are we UM2 owners suppossed to do now? Go out and buy an UM3? Thats a bit unfair i think. Has anyone seen the Prometheus System ( ) or something similarWould that not be a viable option for the UM2 range?
  3. Hi all When will 0.25mm, 0.6mm & 0.8mm nozzles be available for the UM3? Just curious......
  4. Again, thank you Meduza. Very informative and helpful, much appreciated. I almost never print PLA anyway, mostly ABS, nylon, Carbon Fibre, etc. But want to try some of the higher temp materials. Which parts would i have to replace in order to print 290? Could i replace the first section of bowden with a PEET part and replace the teflon, etc with aluminium or steel? Would i have to introduce water cooling or a heatsink in that case? I'm already working on my own nozzle designs, to replace the ones i got with Ollssen Kit upgrade, so might as well go full monty on the whole hotend then?
  5. Thanks Meduza I suspected as much. Wouldnt want to hurt my beloved UM2..... Any upgrades or suitable replacements for the UM2 in that regard, that you know of? Machine is enclosed 100% with a case i made for it. Stabilises conditions for the prints and no interference form external conditions. But still can't get the bed heat I need. To be more specific, i tried printing with ABS Pro from FormFutura, but prints kept dislodging. I leveled the bed perfectly, even went a smidge closer after a while to really squish down the first layer, but no joy. The failed prints have perfect inter-line adhesion and it is not a buildplate level or print temp issue. After a bit of research, it turns out that FormFutura recommends a heated bed of 120 deg or more, due to the extra hardness and stiffness of that specific filament. I tried the same print with Titan X ABS without changing anything and no issues, perfect print. So it seems to be a material specific issue for sure.
  6. Thanks for the quick response. I am wary of tinkering with firmware settings, as i am as proficient at coding as i am at blindfolded open heart surgery I would only use the function occassionaly but would like the option available to go up to 120 deg for certain prints and materials. in the same vein, what is the max temp the hotend can reliably print at for a length of time. Thinking of materials like PC etc. Would it be possible to push the hotend to 290 deg or would that require replacement parts for the teflon, etc?
  7. Hi all. Quick question regarding CURA 2.3, would it be possible to set the top/bottom speed independently intstead of lumping them together? Also, would it be possible to provide supports only where needed, or possibly add support manually in CURA? That would be extremely helpful. Lastly, why is it not possible to use all the "material" settings on the UM 2? I have selected them all in settings, but only "enable retraction" and "z hop" settings become available for use on the print setup panel.
  8. Hi I am also on the hunt for this feature but cant seem to find it. Wasn't it going to find its way back into CURA 2.3? When will it return?
  9. Good day all. Finally joined on here after 2 years with UM2, as i finally have a question I couldn't find an answer to on Google. Is the UM2 capable of using higher heated bed temperatures than 100 deg celcius? I need to heat up to 120 deg and havent got a clue where or how to edit the machine settings or if the heated bed can actually achieve higher temperatures. Help and info of any kind would be most appreciated. Thanks
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