dazkeirle

Hey dude, did you sell this? If not may I buy it from you? Many thanks

My UM2 slider blocks have clearly had their day, the clips are showing play and they are no longer tight. I've found replacements from China on eBay but was wondering if any of you lovely people had a contact in the UK for faster dispatch. Ideally genuine, although i doubt it really matters that much. Many thanks.

I bet I know what this is. The back of the button is a hole which is inside the printer, that allows filament to fall into the button housing and not only cause obstruction but get in the way of the leds. Has any filament fallen in? Push the button out using this hole from inside the machine, you'll be surprised how much is in there

Octoprint combined with Printoid for android really enhances the printer for me, its just annoying that you cant control it once it's in host mode. Cheap upgrade really (an old pi2 and a cheap camera). Haha, you know what, I was thinking the same about SLA and with the Wanhao D7 being £400 I was tempted, however, the fact that when printing flat objects you've gotta tilt them, then deal with removing thick supports etc means that for 99% of the things I print (usually box shaped practical things) SLA would just end up being more of a ball-ache than a benefit. For tiny models like you're into though yeah, I can see it being a real benefit. Happy to take that UM3 off your hands when you progress though, you wouldn't want it sat around collecting dust.

Well, I'm glad you took care of that for me boss. All the tweaking, cleaning and adjustment appears to have cleared up most of the underextrusion. For those following, I think what had happened over time is that because the um2+ is just so reliable, gradually I'd been tweaking up layer height, and speed without giving thought to temperature. Where I used to print at .1 at 30 full time, gradually my default had become .2 at 55 and the nozzle change happened somewhere in the middle. I still think I need to use slightly hotter than with a regular, but we're talking 10 degrees ish. I think I've reached end game with this setup now, heavily inspired by wisar's mancave (and budget unfortunately) but it's almost a set and forget setup now. I have a pi mounted underneath, a camera inside with adjustable focus, removable tablet for monitoring and also stopping / loading prints using octopi, enclosure with HEPA filter and of course the jewel in the crown (pun), the Olsson Ruby. I think that is me done until I can afford an UM3 or perhaps another IDEX style printer, jealous of all this PVA usage.

It is a lot easier than some of the other stuff that you have done with your printer! Just go for it...there must be a reason that the seller gave you a spare! I have done it numerous times without issue and it is easier now on the + than it was before. Will Haha, yeah it was super easy. Less than 20 minutes to change one start to finish now.

sorry, what pink mate? I think that may be a reflection of red curtain behind.

turns out I coincidentally had blocked the Olsson in that process. Anyway, had a cup of coffee, took things apart and did it all properly. Everything cleaned and working as was, if not better. I didn't have a fancy tool for the spacer but did use my calipers and align them to the rails. I'll be damned if they weren't bang on 16.80. Anyhow, would be silly not to ask, anything look wrong in this picture? https://goo.gl/photos/Vps31MkvzLuBGtMX7 I've now ordered a new TFM thingy for £16 - and more importantly I'm now not afraid to take apart the hot end (fitting name considering how burnt my fingers now are)

well that didn't go to plan. Appeared to be some kind of massive leakage and far worse under-extrusion - I've taken apart and replaced original TFM in the hope that whatever i did, I've now resolved. I think tbh I just didn't screw nozzle on quite tight enough and the filament backed up over the nozzle. If the TFM had such a short life then there's no point in putting the new one in. I'll buy a new one as you mentioned.

As I hot dinner break I thought whats the worst that could happen and went at it. Pretty simple, unscrew everything and then put all back togther. Here's the difference between old and new. https://goo.gl/photos/EfjANS5j6tpQwLu79 Will test now to see if this may be the source of the underextrusion.

This, yes defiantly friction and when I look down I can clearly see a little burred edge. Loos like I'll be swapping out my Thermocoupler today (I have a spare here). Is this a nightmare to do, any tips?

Im interested in how heat conductivity was so dramatically altered from beta to final without changing the materials in use. Surely by not having brass tot he tip some difference in heat conductivity is to be expected? If everybody is running theirs hotter would be good to know, saves me continuously trying to search for and diagnose an issue I simply do not have.

how hard is it to change a coupler on an UM2+? I actually have a spare. I just dont want to start and then be in the position of not being able to remove or something silly.

I don't believe I have a beta, but it's good to know. That's a good point actually, what I'm experiencing is actually not typical under extrusion but that parallel wall lines don't close where they used to, small gaps. Now, I had diagnosed that as underextrusion due to temp, however you're right one noticeable difference is that the Olsson Ruby nozzle has a sharper tip than any of my brass nozzles. The shoulder is certainly thinner. I wonder if the filament just isnt getting as squished.

its not so much that regular will block or anything, it's that they will deteriorate and widen. As such what should be a constant (nozzle opening diameter) becomes a variable. That's never good.