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ggalisky1

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  1. DIY Filament Review for PEEK (Polyether ether ketone) Source of pellets: https://www.filastruder.com/collections … al-pellets Note, I emailed elmoret(Tim) and he was able to order these pellets very quickly(<1 week). Thank you Tim! Pre Drying instructions: I used a toaster oven at 150C for 4 hours -see figure 1. Not sure if this was overkill, but it worked and the filament was dry enough to print with. After the pellets were dried I let them cool down, put them in a ziploc back, and loaded them into my hopper 3 days later. https://imgur.com/qLb5O2I Figure 1: Pellets in oven https://imgur.com/39tJXvl Figure 2: Pellets in bag Filament extrusion setup: Filastruder with frankenstein Filawinder built from scraps in my shop - see figure 3 Note, the Filastruder has been modified to have 18v supplied to the heater and 12v to the motor. This allows me to reach 350C+ extrusion temperatures. I also added glass fiber insulation to the end of the thermocouple as the the PTFE insulation is not rated past around 200C I also built airtight silicone sealed hopper and attached that hopper via drilled and tapped M3 holes on the barrel of the Filastruder. The plastic box around the Filawinder was an attempt to make it easy to seal off spooled material from the outside humidity. https://imgur.com/W09je7T Figure 3: Filastruder and frankenstein filawinder mounted on plywood Extruder settings: Extrusion temp 345C Extrusion rate: 13in/min - This is about 1kg per 2.5hrs I think. https://imgur.com/zFkpphV Figure 4: PEEK filament Machine used: Custom Big Fused Filament Fabrication 3D printer, CoreXY with 21.5x12x18in build volume, heated bed, heated chamber, flexible thermal barriers, E3D Titan Aqua, E3D super volcano, E3D .6mm copper plated super volcano nozzle, PT100 temp sensor, Duet Wifi, Nema 23s, Ball screw for Z, removable spring steel build plate held on by high temp magnets, PEI build surface. Machine settings: Print temp 370C Nozzle, 150 bed, 70C chamber 20mm/s 100% infill, 2 walls https://imgur.com/fUper7Z Figure 5: Custom BFP (Big FFF 3D printer) printing a PEEK double helical gear DIY PEEK Filament Tolerances: 1.62+/- .8mm NOTE: I am still working on getting the tolerances right, but I am confident I can get it to +/- .1mm. My filawinder setup is hacked together incorrectly and needs to be rebuilt to get better tolerances. I will post an update when this is completed. Printed part: I opted to go with a very small test print so I wouldn’t have to worry about warping. The test part is a scaled down version of a Filawinder drive gear. The top part of the print had very poor layer bonding and confirms that in order to properly print PEEK you need to have the ambient air temp around 130-140C. Having the ambient air temp near the glass transition temp of the plastic helps with layer bonding. This is why large ABS parts from Stratasys printers never have layer separation mid part. Since my chamber temp was around 75C the layers cooled down too quickly and were not “sticky” enough to bond to the next layer. Also a word of warning, the part stuck too well to the PEI build plate - see figure 7. In the future I will be using a piece of steel with PVA glue on it and seeing what happens. I will post an update when I print with different chamber/ bed temps. https://imgur.com/DpZliqT Figure 6: Printed PEEK double helical gear https://imgur.com/jUn3EhO Figure 7: Poor layer adhesion https://imgur.com/xfzTMnz Figure 8: PEEK part sticking too well to PEI build surface An interesting note: Something that I found fascinating was that when the filament was extruded it came out semi clear brown and then as it cooled it hardened into light milky brown - see figure 8. This occurred both on the printer and Filastruder. It was more clear when extruded on the printer. This may be due to the higher extrusion temp (370C vs 345C). https://imgur.com/i99BBDi Figure 8: Filament color and opacity change, clear brown filament section is circled in blue In conclusion: My initial testing is very promising. With some more testing and higher chamber temperatures I believe I will be able to start making larger PEEK parts with strong layer bonding in no time. As it stands now I need to fix my winder system to get better tolerances, but there is no reason that I see beyond my winder issues that would make it hard to get +/- .05mm tolerances. I will be updating this thread as I get closer to establishing a proper workflow for PEEK. Thanks for reading! If you have any questions or feedback feel free to post below or PM me.
  2. I was selected first place winner for the 2017 Stratasys Extreme Redesign Competition! http://www.stratasys.com/en/extreme-redesign
  3. For now, the project is pretty much done. It was my senior year engineering project during high school (I graduate this Thursday!). Maybe in college, I can find some more support and develop the project further to give the fingers more degrees of freedom.
  4. My project is a 3D printed biomimetic robotic prosthetic hand. It is comprised of 3D printed bones, ligaments, tendon sheaths, and supporting structures like the palm and servo tower mounting pieces. In addition, I take advantage of both rigid and flexible materials in my design. The bones and mounting hardware are made of ABS, and the ligaments and tendon sheaths are made from Taulman 3D’s PCTPE filament. The tendons for my hand are made of spectra deep sea fishing line. I have been working on the hardware for this project for 10 months now, and it's comprised of 54 different stl files - 20 bones, 14 tendon sheaths, 16 ligaments, 20 tendon guides, 1 palm, 2 servo mounting plates, 6 pulleys, and 1 carpal tunnel. I designed 37 of the 57 unique 3D files for the project. The other 20 are bone files that have been highly modified from the original files to fit my project. The base files before all my changes can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15342 My design innovates on the current state of robot hands in several way, but the most significant is that takes advantage of biomechanics to achieve a higher level of dexterity. My design incorporates the major components of the human hand (bones, ligaments, tendons, tendon sheath, intrinsic muscle) which allows my hand to have human like movement and speed. Instead of using traditional mechanical joints, I followed the blueprint of the human hand, using printed ligaments and laser cut rubber to form a joint capsule, which has had it rewards in terms of performance and improved dexterity over traditional robot hands. The next way my design innovates is in the control department. Since my design closely parallels its human counterpart, I can use existing data from how the human hand moves to control the hand. Instead of writing completely new code to control my hand, all I need to do is track my actual hands movement with draw wire sensors and send that data over to the hand. My design makes the software side of this project significantly less complicated While the actual hand in my project is larger than human scale because of ease of manufacturing, the form factor of my servo motors to control the hand is very similar to the size of my forearm which is the part that the servo array is mimicking. Most robot hands are more bulky, so my design is innovative because of its smaller and more manageable form factor. Finally, my last design innovation is reducing cost. Since most of the design can be printed on a hobbyist 3D printer, the overall cost of the project including motors and other parts can be kept under $600. This is a huge improvement when compared against other prosthetic hands, and an even bigger improvement when compared to other robot hands that try to mimic biomechanics. The level of detail and customization of this hand would make it much more expensive to manufacture if I did not have a 3D printer. Also, all of the parts can be printed in about 2 days, if you are printing through the nights. Fun Facts: Each finger has 46 screws, 8 washers, 3 tendon sheaths, 3 ligaments, 4 bones, 1 finger tip, 3 pieces of laser cut rubber, 2 tendon guides, and 2 lengths of fishing line for the tendons. It takes about 45 minutes to build one finger Most parts were printed on an Ultimaker 2 with an E3D extrusion upgrade kit Note: This project is inspired from the research paper below. I have modified some design elements, but credit is due to the brilliant researchers who wrote the paper below. Research paper link: https://homes.cs.washington.edu/~todorov/papers/XuICRA16.pdf Blog: http://ggalisky.weebly.com/3d-printed-biomimetic-hand-project.html Progress video 1 Progress video 2https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8_qwm8azxg&t=10s Stratasys Extreme Redesign Entry
  5. I have owned my UM2 for almost 3 years now, and I have been using cura version 15.xxx I recently tried the 2.xxx version and the performance is pretty horrible. Mulitple parts take forever to load, and then after loading them you can barley move them around. You can only rotate or move parts but you cant do them both like in 15.xxx. The multiply tool is gone. The intial layer width is gone. Things are so increibly laggy. I have a computer the a gtx 1080, and i5 and 16gb of ram, so my hard ware isnt the issue. Overall I am very disapointed with the new version of Cura.
  6. When I go to set the z height for my nozzle with the bed leveling procedures, the nozzle always starts too high. In order to correct for that I have to take out the build plate and set the z height lower than the bed location in order to compensate for what seems like a Z offset. Is there a place in the firmware I can change this? I also have a mod on my bed which is a sheet of PEI double side taped on the build plate to help with ABS adhesion, but that shouldn't be causing an issue. This was not an issue previous to the new firmware update, and I have ran through the calibrations about 20 times with the bed both hot and cold.
  7. The whole point of the E3D upgrade kit has nothing to do with easy nozzle swapping. I 100% agree that if you are upgrading for the sake of nozzle swapping ease, then by all means get an Olsson block. @ultiarjan I used an E3D for about 10 months previous to getting my UM2. I never had problems with PLA. Maybe you just got a defective unit? Also, if you still have that v6 for free yes I am interested please PM me, I will pay for shipping. The point of an E3D upgrade kit is to be able to use higher temp materials (380C), gain access to E3D's volcano system (pretty big deal for fast large prints), and replace the awful original feeder on the Ultimaker 2. It's also almost half as much as the official upgrade kit (220 USD vs 395 USD), and provides a better deal for people that like to experiment, NOT for people who want the easiest user experience.
  8. I recently had the chance to upgrade my Ultimaker 2 to an E3D version that replaced the stock hotend and extruder with the E3D v6 all metal hotend and the Titan geared extruder. The installation was very straight forward, but it did take a couple of hours and some patience. I found Thomas Sanladerer’s guide and the E3D wiki to be very helpful while installing the upgrades. In addition, I also made a tutorial video on how to install the upgrade kit. (Links Below) Link to Tom’s tutorial: Link to E3D wiki: http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2 I also made a how to video tutorial for the installation Link: Before I purchased my Ultimaker 2 (UM2), I had been using a reprap with an E3D v6, and for me having the v6 was a big deal since nozzles were easy to swap, the v6 was able to push any material I threw at it, and it was able to reach high temps that allowed you to print materials like polycarbonate. Also, I also worked with many experimental filaments that I made with my Filastruder, and the v6 was always able to handle it. After purchasing the Ultimaker, things became more limited. While the print quality was impeccable, I missed the quick swap nozzles and ability to use many different materials with solid performance. With the UM2 before the upgrade I never had issues with ABS or PLA materials, but using more exotic filaments was an issue. The upgrade kit solved that problem for me. I got mine from Filastruder. The direct link is below. If you are an Ultimaker 2 owner, you know that under-extrusion has always been an issue, and the Titan extruder solves that problem. The Titan extruder has a fully constrained filament path, so that means that performance while using flexible materials is vastly improved. For example, before I installed the upgrade, I was having issues with printing Taulman’s PCTPE filament (a flexible material), and now that I have the Titan, PCTPE flows through with no issues. Likewise, for the original materials like ABS and PLA, I am no longer dealing with skipped steps from a poorly designed extruder. Overall, the performance of the Titan versus the original extruder is significantly better. The Titan crushes the original in every way. The new v6 hotend is also a huge improvement over Ultimakers hotend for several reasons. The first of which is the all metal construction of the v6. This allows the hotend to be heated up to 400°C. The original UM2 hotend had a max temp of 260°C, so this is a massive improvement that will allow you to print any high temp materials, like polycarbonate, Taulman’s Tritan, or even Ultem if you have a heated chamber. Another benefit is you can also change nozzle sizes. In addition, E3D also offers hardened nozzles for abrasive materials and the volcano nozzle for efficient printing of larger objects. E3D also provides a sample of their edge filament with the kit. After I installed the upgrade, I did a test print and used the included sample of grey edge filament. Here is a quick video on E3D’s edge filament: Overall, I highly recommend the E3D upgrade kit for experienced users looking to increase the performance of their UM2. The installation itself takes some time, but should be a walk in the park for intermediate to advanced users. Performance wise, after the upgrade has been installed, I no longer have to deal with under extrusion or as much difficulty with printing flexible materials. Another great thing about E3D, is that there is a large online community that you can take advantage of. The cost of the upgrade kit is less than Ultimakers upgrade kit, and E3D’s upgrade kit has objectively better performance. You can purchase the upgrade kit from Filastruder here: https://www.filastruder.com/products/e3d-ultimaker-upgrade-kit
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