ecm1986

Hi Edward, I had the same problem like you with the bed levelling. It actually all comes down to turning the screws only 1/8 of a circumference at the time. This way you can adjust the screws by the millimeter. I was having trouble while printing the test file at first. Now however it is printed very accurate. And it is important to turn only one screw at the time. Print the test file. Look where it is printing too close to the bed (where it pushes the filament into the bed) and repeat the adjustment sequence for that/those sides. Because you are printing with a three-legged printer it can be difficult to adjust. If it looks like the printhead is too close to the bed between two legs, it means that you should adjust the legs on both sides of that point. Hopefully this instruction makes it easier to adjust the printer. It took me around 10 prints to fully print the test file without any hickups. However! after being able to print the test file from 101hero I started printing one of the many models they offer on 101land.com. This presented a new problem. Somehow the gcode they offer to print the models are somewhat messed up in my opinion. the printer starts printing normally, but it looks like if the printer starts at a whole different z-level when using those files. So that's where I am right now. One question for you edward (hoping you can answer it). Can you use octoprint on any computer? or do you need to have a raspberry pi set-up? Thanks, Patrick Thanks Patrick. Your advice is greatly appreciated. I have since gotten to that point where I can print the test pattern decently. I was wondering about the method to adjusting the calibration screws. Particularly which to adjust when and you answered that nicely. I was catching on to it but it's nice to hear from someone with more experience. About Octoprint. I found this resource for people wanting to run it on the x86 platform (particularly for Win. 7 /10). Haven't tried to install on anything but my Pi2 so I can't say for certain. Looks like it's possible though. https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Setup-on-Windows You could just use an old PC and maybe Virtualbox it? Found this other resource that talks about emulating a Raspberry Pi on a PC: http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/emulate-raspberry-pi-pc/ Hope that helps. If you have an old PC lying around like a netbook it might be worth tinkering with the resources above. UPDATE: So, I have the printer calibrated (not perfectly) but I have the knack of it now and have a decent test print. Today I tried to tackle a different print of something I downloaded off thingyverse and used octoprint with cura plugin to slice. When the print started it all looked in order but then the printer started doing weird stuff like it would print 1 layer and then move to the side of the print and just keep extruding a bunch of PLA into a blob and then move back to the print and do another layer and do the same thing again. Annoying and very very not right so I canceled the print and tried a different model. The next model I chose was sliced with the cura plugin for ctoprint and started ok again. But this time after it got a couple of layers down it started printing in mid-air (like where it should have been printing towards the end of the print) and then moved down to the current layer and back up and down and up.. Like the layer info was corrupted or something. So, I think it might have something to do with slicing through octoprint.. Maybe the cura settings? Printing profile.. not sure. I am no expert with octoprint and wish I knew more about how to properly configure Cura to work with the 101 hero through octoprint. Still need to research this more since I would love to have this working great without the need to use SD cards every time I want to do a print. I am going to try loading a print onto an SD card later when I get home to see if the issue is with slicing with the cura plugin. I may also try slicing first on my PC and then uploading just the gcode and trying the same prints again to see if the behavior is the same. I am still in a better spot than when I first started (couldn't even get a successful test print). The reality is that work and other things have been occupying most of my time so I have only messed with the printer a couple of times since I got it assembled. Let me know if you get octoprint up and running and about how it works for you if you do. It is nice to remotely home and operate the printer without having it next to your PC ( I honestly don't have space on my PC's desk for it). Thanks, Edward UPDATE: I found the solution to the problem that I was having. I was using the profile from that "Dave" guy in the video on this forum. With that profile in Cura, when I tried to print anything, the printer was showing the weird behavior I described in my previous post. After switching the profile to the on from 101 Hero, I have it printing normal. I know that guy in the video has quite a few good points about maybe the printing speed and maybe some other things that can use tweaking, but his profile really didn't work at all for me. Maybe I did something wrong? I didn't mess with any of the settings though. Just loaded the .ini profile into Cura. So, I know have prints going through Octoprint and coming out (not amazing) but not bad. I also find that having a fan blowing--at a reasonable speed--directly on the print helps it from deforming. I am again for the record still using the cruddy PLA included in the box. Just trying to use it up before I use the better stuff I bought (which arrived yesterday ). There may still be some messing around needed with the calibration screws, so I am printing a cube to get a better visualization. I printed like a million little star patterns and used digital calipers until I got everything looking as satisfactory as possible. Now it's just to print the cube and see what else. If anything. I mean it is only an $84 kit. Not going to hold my breath but am hoping I can get it to print just well enough to be acceptable. Edward

Hi Edward, I had the same problem like you with the bed levelling. It actually all comes down to turning the screws only 1/8 of a circumference at the time. This way you can adjust the screws by the millimeter. I was having trouble while printing the test file at first. Now however it is printed very accurate. And it is important to turn only one screw at the time. Print the test file. Look where it is printing too close to the bed (where it pushes the filament into the bed) and repeat the adjustment sequence for that/those sides. Because you are printing with a three-legged printer it can be difficult to adjust. If it looks like the printhead is too close to the bed between two legs, it means that you should adjust the legs on both sides of that point. Hopefully this instruction makes it easier to adjust the printer. It took me around 10 prints to fully print the test file without any hickups. However! after being able to print the test file from 101hero I started printing one of the many models they offer on 101land.com. This presented a new problem. Somehow the gcode they offer to print the models are somewhat messed up in my opinion. the printer starts printing normally, but it looks like if the printer starts at a whole different z-level when using those files. So that's where I am right now. One question for you edward (hoping you can answer it). Can you use octoprint on any computer? or do you need to have a raspberry pi set-up? Thanks, Patrick Thanks Patrick. Your advice is greatly appreciated. I have since gotten to that point where I can print the test pattern decently. I was wondering about the method to adjusting the calibration screws. Particularly which to adjust when and you answered that nicely. I was catching on to it but it's nice to hear from someone with more experience. About Octoprint. I found this resource for people wanting to run it on the x86 platform (particularly for Win. 7 /10). Haven't tried to install on anything but my Pi2 so I can't say for certain. Looks like it's possible though. https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Setup-on-Windows You could just use an old PC and maybe Virtualbox it? Found this other resource that talks about emulating a Raspberry Pi on a PC: http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/emulate-raspberry-pi-pc/ Hope that helps. If you have an old PC lying around like a netbook it might be worth tinkering with the resources above. UPDATE: So, I have the printer calibrated (not perfectly) but I have the knack of it now and have a decent test print. Today I tried to tackle a different print of something I downloaded off thingyverse and used octoprint with cura plugin to slice. When the print started it all looked in order but then the printer started doing weird stuff like it would print 1 layer and then move to the side of the print and just keep extruding a bunch of PLA into a blob and then move back to the print and do another layer and do the same thing again. Annoying and very very not right so I canceled the print and tried a different model. The next model I chose was sliced with the cura plugin for ctoprint and started ok again. But this time after it got a couple of layers down it started printing in mid-air (like where it should have been printing towards the end of the print) and then moved down to the current layer and back up and down and up.. Like the layer info was corrupted or something. So, I think it might have something to do with slicing through octoprint.. Maybe the cura settings? Printing profile.. not sure. I am no expert with octoprint and wish I knew more about how to properly configure Cura to work with the 101 hero through octoprint. Still need to research this more since I would love to have this working great without the need to use SD cards every time I want to do a print. I am going to try loading a print onto an SD card later when I get home to see if the issue is with slicing with the cura plugin. I may also try slicing first on my PC and then uploading just the gcode and trying the same prints again to see if the behavior is the same. I am still in a better spot than when I first started (couldn't even get a successful test print). The reality is that work and other things have been occupying most of my time so I have only messed with the printer a couple of times since I got it assembled. Let me know if you get octoprint up and running and about how it works for you if you do. It is nice to remotely home and operate the printer without having it next to your PC ( I honestly don't have space on my PC's desk for it). Thanks, Edward

UPDATE: Have since looked back through my manual and realized (big forehead slap) that the problem is the 3 calibration screws. Adjusted them once, then the test print worked but I noticed the Z-Height was off on other areas of the bed. So I fiddled with them some more and no matter how many times I adjust them though, I can never get the test pattern to come out again. You see the problem is that each time you want to adjust the screws, you have to turn off the printer to avoid damaging the motors. This makes the process very tedious. 101hero has an official video stating that you need to turn off printer if you want to move the arms up and down. I find it very difficult to avoid moving them when adjusting the calibration screws so I turned it off each time. So I'm still messing with it; that's the bottom line. On another more positive note I used my Raspberry Pi 2 to set up octoprint and I have it connected to the 101 hero. It works pretty well with the manual controls working fine and it reading the temperature of the hot end. I was even able to upload a print and start it. So that made me very happy but there's still the problem with the Z-Height not being correct which leads to fails prints so far. ABOUT CURA: After trying to plug it into my computer again, I was able to get it to connect with Cura. Can't quite remember what I did but I can double-check and right back on this. The problem ended up being that the manual controls are all kind of backwards don't seem to be very compatible. Not nearly as good as octoprint. With somebody who knows how to configure Cura better they could probably have better success than I did. So I still don't have it working satisfactorily, but I'm getting there. The whole the Z height thing is really driving me nuts though. The bed leveling wizard in Cura is pretty much useless as far as I'm concerned because it's designed for different style printers that have adjustment screws on the bottom of the bed. Maybe there's a way to make it work, but I'm just too much of a noob. Hope that helps in some way. If anyone knows a good Z-Height adjustment method/ routine for the 101Hero, I would love to hear it step by step. Yes, I now know you have to adjust the calibration screws but so far I have not managed to accurately nail in a process for making it level all around the bed. Thanks, Edward

I am also having this problem. Kinda bullshit since we paid $84 USD for a "Developer" version that isn't any different from having paid $49 or 79 or whatever it was.. Can't remember and don't care. I am also having issues with bed leveling. The hot end is not close enough to the bed to be in proper proximity to the bed to get successful results. I put a CD under the glass bed to make sure and the first test print from their website worked.... well.. mostly... It wasn't ok on one side which points again to Z height / bed leveling. Cura has a bed leveling thing in the software that I could use if the damn thing could work over USB.. My device manager is showing the printer so I know it's not my PC's problem. Must be something I am not doing right or the thing is useless over USB. Either way.. I am a bit disappointed. I am going to try Ocotopi over my Pi2 but don't have high hopes since it doesn't work even now using windows while being plugged in using Cura 15.02.1 over USB. I am an ultra noob with this 3D printed stuff but follow a lot of 3D printing youtube channels. Doesn't anyone know how to properly level the 101 Hero if you can't plug into a PC? I was going to try the adjustment screws but don't want to mess anything up worse than it is outta the box.