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cregenpri

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About cregenpri

  • Birthday 05/26/1986

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  1. I just saw this and have to say, awesome job! I do have an arduino uno,lcd shield,driver and stepper motor lying around so I just mighr build this.maybe out of glass and abs/nylon so I could use chloroform,since I have alot of pla. Do you need a hardcore for pvb or just the good old AA printcore?
  2. Just FYI: I have a Sense 2 scanner and a powerhouse asus G751JT laptop, with a huge charger and battery. I'm emphisising that this isn't a low power consumption laptop! Yet, Sense 2 keeps getting disconnected from it. I bought 3 different USB cables, each more expensive than the other, only to realize that it's the laptops fault! I thought, my left USB ports have data connection issues, it's a known hardware defect, all models to my knowledge have it, so maybe the ones on the right might have other issues (the scanner was plugged in to the ones on the right). I plugged it into a PC and voila, it worked flawlessly, with any of my 3 cables. So, if it doesn't work on your laptop, check it in a PC first, before sending it back in warranty
  3. You are very welcome. Thanks for the help , you and everyone!
  4. sure thing.it's the least I can do. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/vw-spinning-keychain I have included the 123dx file also in case you want to edit it. I used tweakatz in cura with 0.2 draft settings, everything default, removed adhesion helpers and I just reduced print speed to 50% at layer 4 or 5 for the next 5 layers. right when it starts to print that little thingie which is selected in the image
  5. i designed a spinning keychain and printing it in once piece. with pla i had no issues, with abs, i had to make the holes bigger because the abs fused together. reducing print speed did not solve it, only managed to solve it by making the hole bigger and reducing print speed for that portion of the print with tweakatz. the same design, with a smaller hole was okay for pla, but not for abs. the height of the print was smaller too, by almost 10%, but later I figured out that it must have been the fact that I removed the print while still hot. I think that is what caused it to warp too, since it was fine when I took it off the bed, and later found it warped
  6. Thank you for the kind words kmanstudios! I've heard that Ultimaker has an awesome community from my vendor, when I bought it. Thank you once again gr5 for taking the time to explain. I think all that is left is to order them and play with them. In the meanwhile, I just discovered the hassles of ABS shrinkage. As I kid, I thought learning ends with school. Jokes on me:)) Thank you everyone for the help and support! I hope my noobish questions will help others if they are wondering the same!
  7. Thanks guys! I just wanted to know how low can I go. I will be doing what you gr5 and neotko suggested, so buying a hardcore six pack, and try to play with the 0.25 by fooling it. I wouldn't want to invest in direct drive upgrades, might be cheaper to just get a dd printer I assume. Thank you for clearing up the ICE nozzle stuff. I don't think I will ever use carbon, but I definitely will want to use wooden and copper filaments. My main focus is the automotive industry, since we have a car repair shop, but I would like to broaden the things I can print to gifts and other personalized items and industries. One thing is still unclear. I get that bigger nozzle=less time. I read somewhere that the way you use everlast cores is: if I want to print something with 0.4,you use 0.6 core so that the filament doesn't stick. Is this true or this doesn't apply to everlast? Or am I not grasping something else here? 0.4 is the width of a line, which is defined by the core size and layer height can be anything I want because it is defined by how close the nozzle is to the last printed layer? I'm sorry for the stupid questions, but I got my printer 3 months ago, and have been overwhelmed with learning to print, design and post-processing.
  8. Thank you for taking the time to answer. These are some really great prints and advices. I didn't think you could lie about nozzle size:) The thing is, I wouldn't want to tell a client that I can't print his business card with all the details because I'm limited by nozzle size. I live in a small town, so I can't afford sending clients away, but maybe I'm just trying to stretch it too far. I just want to be prepared for almost anything, hence why I'm looking for smaller, more detailed printing options and a wider range of filament. For example, this is my fathers' business card. Is this something too small that can't be printed with just changing the nozzles to smaller ones? Regarding the ICE nozzles, what are those for? In comparison with everlast nozzles?
  9. So what I understood from this: - Everlast is the way to go for exotic materials. I've read that to print with 0.4 width, I should use a 0.6 nozzle to avoid clogging. For 0.6 prints, use 0.8 and so on. Or did I get it wrong? -Printing small is challenging with the UM3 because of the feeder. Print time is something I can sacrifice, market is nonexistent in my area and demand is low. I just want to be able to offer different options right now, and later on, buy a different machine with a better feeding system or just upgrade the system on the UM3. So if printing time is not important to me, can I lower the print speed and get readable text with a 0.1mm nozzle? Thanks in advance!
  10. i guess you could use a guide of some sort made out of wood or aluminium or something that doesn't melt. something like this:
  11. there is a filament welding tool on kickstarter which seems to work great, but I don't think it's needed. Of course, it's easier with it, but we should be able to join them without issues by melting them gently, or using chloroform
  12. Hello everyone! As the title says, I didn't find a guide, if there is one, please let me know, if not, I have a few questions that need clarifying and would be grateful for any insight! I have an UM3Ex, and want to print business cards with small letters, which my 0.4 standard core can't do. I would also like to be able to print wood and bronze filaments. (don't know if it's allowed to link to other sites, so I won't be doing it) My current understanding is: -I need a 3dsolex hardcore to be able to change the heads, so I need the hardcore six pro -the smaller the hole on the core, the smaller letters I can print, so I need the 0.1mm and 0.15mm nozzles, which are sold separately. -if I don't want to buy cores often, I need the everlast core, printing is advised with a lower layer height than the hole diameter to avoid clogging. So to print with a 0.4 layer height, I need the 0.6 everlast core This is what I understood from suggestions, reading comments, impressions. Please correct me and/or advise me as I intend to make the purchase soon. Thank you very much!
  13. I've been thinking about melting them and casting them into shapes, like a bunny and other decorative items. Like fridge magnets. There are casting shapes found online, buy a pattern and melt the leftovers. Or I've been also thinking of welding together 2 filaments with a heat gun or something. Haven't tried anything yet tho.
  14. to use dual extrusion, you need 2 different files and merge them in cura. a detailed process can be found here: https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/34012-get-started-with-cura-printing-with-two-colors
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